F.P.JOURNE – CLASSIQUE FFC Titanium Hand 42mm Platinum Automatic Edition 2023
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
In anticipation of the production of a small series of a timepiece inspired by the FFC Blue prototype, a unique piece for Only Watch 2021, it seems useful to revisit its genesis and its unique way of reading the time, made possible by a hand whose fingers come to life as the hours pass.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The story of how the FFC Blue was created is like a fairy tale and for this reason deserves to be told again for those who do not know it. It began in 2009 when Mrs. Eleanor Coppola, Francis Ford Coppola’s wife, gave her illustrious filmmaker husband the Chronomètre à Résonance, which she found chic and elegant. Delighted with the gift, he immediately sent an invitation to its creator to come and meet him at his “Inglenook” winery in the Napa Valley. When they met in 2012, they discussed the different principles of representing the passing of time and the filmmaker asked if a watchmaker had ever considered displaying the hours in the way the ancients used to give them, by counting them on their fingers.Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The idea of ticking the 12 digits of the hours with 5 fingers had appealed to François-Paul who, in 2014, wanted to take up the challenge of inventing an animated hand capable of displaying it in the same way. His motivation led him to start prototyping the FFC Blue watch the same year, which was supposed to go on sale at Only Watch 2021.
History in motion
After having found, with Francis Ford Coppola, how to present the 12 digits of the hours with a single hand and 5 fingers, François-Paul set out to design a mechanism capable of adequately transcribing these digits into digital signs.
To avoid falling into naturalism, this artist, who is known to have a passion for history, like one of his sons who today is a professional historian, chose to draw his inspiration from a drawing of a prosthesis made by the famous French barber-surgeon Ambroise Paré (1509/1510 -1590).
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO For those not familiar with him, he is the one to whom we owe, thanks to his competence and understanding of the human body, undeniable progress in medicine. The mechanised hand found on the front of the FFC Blue is inspired by the one developed by this Renaissance physician.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Initially thought in bronze by its inventor, the final hand for the watch was made of engraved titanium, used to reduce the weight of the moving components so as to not affect the energy consumption of the caliber, the Octa 1300 launched by the Manufacture F.P.Journe in 2001. As François-Paul points out, “The most important thing in watchmaking is what is least visible. In this case, it was a matter of getting five fingers to move with the least amount of effort”.
Managing the available energy
In order to use only the energy coming from the barrel, which ensures a power reserve of 5 days for the piece, the choice was made to install a “remontoir d’égalité” between the primary gear train and the display, as is done in the clocks of buildings when the hands to be moved are long and heavy.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Every hour, and for 40 minutes, the “remontoir d’égalité”, formed by a spring blade enclosed in a kind of barrel, a trigger and a sort of anchor mounted on one side on a wheel with an eccentric in its center, is rewound by the movement.Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
On the hour, the mechanism described by François-Paul as a sort of escapement acting once an hour, is released so that the energy accumulated from the main barrel can, through the intermediary of this tangentially acting fork, set in motion the series of 10 cams whose purpose is to control the movement of the fingers of the hand.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Placed on the left side and visible between the rotating minutes ring mounted on a large extra-flat ball bearing with a fixed cursor placed at noon, they make one revolution in 12 hours, each one activating a series of springs and toggles acting on the rise and fall of the 4 fingers, but also the translation of the thumb. The shape of the cams, associated with the teeth of each one, acts on the fingers which are mounted on a steel sling and which move then, practically without friction, like a loom shuttle.Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Thanks to this ingenious system, the energy required to operate one finger, four fingers between 5 and 6 o’clock as well as between 9 and 10 o’clock, is always the same and calibrated so that it is done in complete safety and, above all, without affecting the chronometry of the regulating group.Reinventing how time is displayed
By means of miniaturisation work pushed to the extreme and seven years of incessant labor spent making the whole thing reliable, the master, supported by the skills gathered within his manufacture, has managed to integrate all the components of the automatic caliber and this astonishing anthropomorphic mobile into a case measuring 42 mm in diameter and only 10,7 mm thick.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
As a result, despite the complexity of the whole, this watch is no thicker than another model equipped with the same movement.Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
To achieve this exploit, François-Paul eliminated the dial and replaced the minute hand, which was impossible to use in the traditional way, with a rotating ring mounted on a large extra-flat ball bearing, as he did for the perpetual calendar of the Astronomic Souveraine. This modification made it possible to gain the few millimeters necessary for the placement of the articulated hand sculpted by a master engraver.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
So, in the end, what does this high-flying timepiece bring to the table besides its original display? It proves that the best way to make a complicated watch is to think about how to save energy in order to make it work without having to add any. As François-Paul says, the watchmaker must have a light hand when designing a movement.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
In the end, the Octa caliber is perfect for this approach because it has a constant and linear force and torque for 5 days. By optimising the friction and using only the smoothest part of the spring, we find a very linear torque that allows adding functions without being afraid that everything will stop. Here’s the proof!
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
================================
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Collection: CLASSIQUE
Model: FFC
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Ref. FFCCase
Platinum PT 950, unique case
Dimensions: Ø: 42 mm / Thickness: 10.70 mm.
Number of parts_
Movement without dial: 396
Cased up on leather strap: 436
Jewels: 63
Dial
Instantaneous digital hours indicated by the animated fingers of a Titanium hand
Rotating minutes dial
Mouvement
Calibre Automatic FFC 1300.3 in 18K rose Gold.
Number of components: Movement: 396
Unidirectional oscillating weight in 22K 5N Gold, engraved Ambroise Paré (1509-1590) & F.F.Coppola.
Functions & Complications: 2
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Dimensions of the movement_
Overall diameter: 34.20 mm
Casing-up diameter: 30.40 mm
Overall height: 8.10 mm
Height of winding system: 3.28 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20 mm
Balancier_
Balance with four adjustable inertia weights
Anachron flat balance spring
Mobile stud holder
Free-sprung
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring
Pinned GE stud
Slipping mainspring
Frequency: 21’600 V/h, 3Hz
Inertia: 10.10 mg*cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude:
12h dial up: > 280°
90h dial up: > 220°
Escapement_
In-line lever escapement, 15-tooth wheel
Main characteristics_
Two position crown:
Winding of the watch in position 1, clockwise
Correction of time in position 2, anti-clockwise
Autonomy: 120 +/- 12 hours
Winding speed on a watch winder: 274 clockwise rotations per 24 hours
Finishing_
High grade
Circular stripes on the bridges
Titanium bridges with Titalyt® coating
Baseplate partly circular grained
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Steelwork with polished chamfers
Bracelet
Alligator strap
Limitation: between 10 and 15 watches per year
-------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
Press release - 2023
----------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com
No comments:
Post a Comment