Thursday, April 30, 2020

ROGER DUBUIS – EXCALIBUR Diabolus in Machina - Unique Piece

ROGER DUBUISEXCALIBUR Diabolus in Machina Tourbillon Minute Repeater - Unique Piece

Mind Over Matter

Haute Horlogerie has no room for compromise – and that’s why Roger Dubuis has never been one to play by the rules. It asserts its uniqueness by combining the mysterious secrets of the noblest traditions with visionary flashes of genius through which it has achieved an uncontested position as the master of expressive and contemporary watchmaking.


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The brand’s most recent creation is a stunning juxtaposition of the brilliance of these past artisans and the most inventive modern techniques. Enter the Excalibur Diabolus in Machina, a creation guaranteed to astound even the boldest souls and partisans of the idea that life must be lived intensely, passionately and – let’s say it like it is – excessively!

A UNIQUE TIMEPIECE

Everyone knows that the devil is in the details. And because creative irreverence is a temptation that Roger Dubuis finds irresistible, Excalibur Diabolus in Machina pushes sophistication to breaking point, offering the exclusive members of the Roger Dubuis tribe an experience that is as exceptional as it is passionate.

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This new challenge combines technical prowess with aesthetic daring, those ultimate freedoms that only a specific production model can allow against the background of a state-of-the-art Manufacture providing as much the strength as the independence to develop a distinctive vision of Time that flies in the face of all existing conventions.

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In a sassy move within which manufacturing perfection bearing the Poinçon de Genève meets disruptive design, every effort has been made to ensure that Excalibur Diabolus in Machina is up there with the most extraordinary Haute Horlogerie experiences.

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Roger Dubuis thus has fun violating its own codes by allowing its famous star to literally implode, resulting in an incredible design that brings harmony to opposites while aligning geometric rigour with chaos. Not one element of this de-structured neo-star is positioned on the same level, creating an even more complex but far more exciting watchmaking feat!

A NEW TAKE ON THE CALIBRE

The story of Roger Dubuis cannot be told without mentioning the very finest horological complications, especially the highly sought-after minute repeater. The maestro himself, an exceptional watchmaker, designed the plans right at the start when the Manufacture was created. Today, this legacy has become a veritable treasure and by integrating two watchmaking complications, Roger Dubuis once again demonstrates its devilish expertise and passion for impossible challenges.

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The difference lies in Roger Dubuis’ application of a mischievous futuristic approach to the minute repeater concept. Invented at a time when turning on a night light involved much more than flicking a switch, this horological complication is one of the most challenging to achieve. The wearer can check the time using a pushpiece that activates a ring tone with a low pitch for the hours, a high pitch for the minutes, and two tones for the quarter hours.

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At Roger Dubuis, the watchmaker have not stopped there, preferring to add functions designed to make using the timepiece more fun. First, perched high at 11 o’clock is a disc that has been skilfully blended with a Roman numeral. Marked with the words Hours, Quarters and Minutes, the disc starts to turn as soon as the minute repeater is activated, visually illustrating the time intervals being chimed. To achieve this, the watchmakers have enriched this second visual indication with the minute repeater’s main feeler-spindle system, which requires mechanically seeking information on the time before striking it.

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Further proof of the obsessive, excessive nature of Roger Dubuis watchmakers, a second functional indicator – in the form of a lever placed between 3 o’clock and 4 o’clock – instantly lets the wearer know whether the watch is in “manual winding” or “time setting” position. This visual safety feature is extremely important as adjusting the watch while the minute repeater is playing can damage the movement.

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Finally, one other function has been developed to make life easier for the user. This is the minute repeater’s pushpiece, which has been embellished with a mechanism called “all or nothing”. Only allowing the minute repeater to be triggered if the pusher has been fully and completely pressed, this second safety feature prevents the mechanism from being triggered or providing merely a partial indication of time.

DIABOLUS IN MACHINA

Roger Dubuis has chosen to tune its minute repeater to the sound of the tritone, the famous “Diabolus in Musica” chord outlawed in medieval religious music, and found, for example, in Camille Saint-Saëns’s symphonic poem, Danse Macabre. This primordial dissonance is also the secret key to all clever and complex melodic harmony, music being the art that has chosen Time as a backdrop against which to weave its spells and govern the laws of beauty. Tuned here to C and G flat, its tones are enhanced by the nobility of the materials through which they resound, offering listeners an enchantingly sensory experience.

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A masterpiece representing the paradoxes of Time, a hedonistic invitation to “Carpe Diem”, and a poetic reminder of our fleeting condition, Excalibur Diabolus in Machina is much more than just a watch. It is a manifesto for an exclusive tribe of pioneering minds on an incessant quest to constantly reinvent their own game.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: EXALIBUR

Model:  EXALIBUR Diabolus in Machina Minute Repeater - Unique Piece

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Ref.  RDDBEX0842

Movement
Calibre  RD0107 caliber
Mechanical automatic with minute repeater and single flying tourbillon
Features: Minute repeater and single flying tourbillon
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Minute repeater, function indicator, chiming indicator
Decorations: circular-grained or trued-up or shot-blasted or Cotes de Genève and NAC coated bridges and plate

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Number of parts: 558 components
Jewels: 54 rubis
Diameter: 14 ¾’’’
Thickness: 10 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz (21’600 vph)
Power-reserve: 60 hours

Case
Skeletonized, Ø45 mm, case, bezel and crown CarTech
Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM (® in the USA). Case back CarTech
Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM (® in the USA)
Sapphire crystal and anti-reflective treatment.
Thickness: 16.8 mm
Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)
Dial
Double surface flange with engraved minute track,
transfered texts. Polished hour markers filled with SLN.
Strap
Interchangeable 3D calf leather strap
Buckle: I nterchangeable titanium cover with titanium triple
folding buckle

Production: Unique series 1 of 1

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Press release - 2020
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For more information, please contact:
Pauline SIZORN
Press Manager
Tel: +41(0)22 783 28 44
Email: pauline.sizorn@rogerdubuis.com
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Wednesday, April 29, 2020

REBELLION – RE-Volt Carbon Forged Bruno Senna Edition

REBELLIONRE-VOLT Carbon Forged Bruno Senna Limited Edition - 2020

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Always looking for thrills and performance, Rebellion offers a limited edition of its RE-Volt model in the colours of Bruno Senna. A driver of the Rebellion Racing team since 2017, the champion is also an ambassador for Rebellion Timepieces.

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Nephew of the legendary Ayrton Senna, the racing driver Bruno Senna distinguished himself at the wheel of a Rebellion R13 during the 24 Hours of Le Mans 2018 and 2019 but also throughout the last LMP1 season, which he punctuated with a brilliant victory in the 4 Hours of Shanghai last November. To celebrate the panache of the champion, Rebellion has decided to devote a limited series in his name, only 20 pieces. Immerse yourself in a mechanical universe without compromise!

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Dynamic lines, high-tech and exceptional performance make the Rebellion RE-Volt Carbon Forged Bruno Senna a remarkable timepiece on which every detail expresses and embodies the brand’s passion for motorsport. The champion has been involved and participated in the development of this timepiece designed for performance.

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On the Rebellion RE-Volt Carbon Forged Bruno Senna, the essentials are displayed on the wrist. Its skeletonised calibre proudly adorns the colours of the driver’s native Brazil. The green indexes stand out from the yellow bars. A pair of hour and minute hands, tinted blue and coated with luminescent material, pass over this technical architecture. All in lightness, Rebellion signs a composition with a design of great purity and great readability. The timepiece is enhanced by a forged carbon rectangular case (40.35x38.5x13.5 mm), which presents a pattern with random markings making each copy unique. The anti-reflective sapphire crystal present on both sides of the case allows the light to circulate. All the components of this layered mechanical architecture are then ideally highlighted and at the same time participate in the unique aesthetics of the timepiece.

The Rebellion RE-Volt Carbon Forged Bruno Senna presents the pilot’s signature at 6 o’clock on its sapphire.

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Like all timepieces in the RE-Volt collection, this limited series is powered by the calibre developed in-house and assembled by Rebellion watchmakers using 165 components. This manual-winding movement, with a frequency of 28,000 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, offers a power reserve of at least 48 hours once wound.

The Rebellion RE-Volt Carbon Forged Bruno Senna limited edition comes with a strap that is as robust as it is comfortable, made of black vulcanised rubber and finished with a folding clasp. The timepiece comes with a second easily interchangeable yellow strap.

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The RE-Volt collection models are available in many technical materials: titanium, titanium DLC , forged carbon and 5N rose gold. On the case middle, the text of your choice can be displayed on a customisable plate. A wide range of strap colours is available: black, brown, grey, red, blue, yellow, green, mauve, white, orange. This can optionally receive a patented quadruple folding clasp, which allows millimetre adjustment for maximum comfort and security.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model:   RE-VOLT Carbon Forged Bruno Senna Limited Edition

Case
Materials:
  Carbon Forged
Dimensions:  38.5mmx 40.35mmx13.5mm
Flange:    Black
Glass:    Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case back:    Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water resistance:  50m / 5 ATM
Movement
Skeletonized property movement manual winding 
Balance frequency:  4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Movement components:  165
Functions:   
Hours and minutes
Jewels:  21

Power reserve:  48 hours
Strap and buckle:
Vulcanized rubber; folding clasp
(option: quadruple deployant patented buckle featuring millimetric adjustment)

Limited to only 20 pieces


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Tuesday, April 28, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER Control Chronograph Calendar


Jaeger-LeCoultreMASTER® Control Chronograph Calendar - 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a new design 
and new models for its Master Control collection

Since it was introduced in 1992, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection has been defined by technical rigour and stylistic restraint, its constant evolution imbued with the Maison’s deep respect for tradition and constant quest for innovation.

In 2020, La Grande Maison relaunches the collection, drawing inspiration from the classic round watches of the 1950s, such as the Futurematic, PowerMatic and Memovox models, and adding a dash of 21st-century flair.Rather than paying homage to a single historic reference, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a range of timepieces featuring some of its most emblematic complications.


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Designed for the urban sophisticate, every element of the Master Control line has been restyled. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have harnessed and modernised the Maison’s classical design codes to create a refined yet entirely contemporary aesthetic that highlights the collection’s complications. A new case design heralds the introduction of a new pink gold alloy – Le Grand Rose gold®.

When launched in 1992, the Master Control line was the first of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collections to benefit from its pioneering ‘1000 Hours Control’ certification – which inspired the collection’s name. A demanding process that tests the entire cased-up watch (not just its movement), it set a new benchmark when introduced and has continually evolved in response to technological advances, to remain one of the watch industry’s most stringent testing protocols.

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Naturally, with this background and the Maison’s long history of technical innovation, the relaunch of Master Control is not simply a stylistic exercise. The Manufacture’s engineers have comprehensively revised and updated all of the movements, increasing power reserves to as much as 70 hours and enhancing overall performance and reliability. Like all Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, the Master Control watches carry an 8-year warranty in addition to the 1,000 Hours Control certification.

MASTER CONTROL CHRONOGRAPH CALENDAR

The headline model of the new Master Control collection features a newly developed movement, Calibre 759, which combines a chronograph with a triple calendar display and a moon-phase. Brought together for the first time in a Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece, this alliance of complications evokes the ancient links between watchmaking and astronomy.

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The new Calibre 759 features a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, a moon-phase indicator, and a 65-hour power reserve.

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With a balanced dial layout that combines the familiarity of two classical complications – a triple calendar and a bi-compax chronograph – Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have made the reading of the displays straightforward and intuitive, despite the complexity of the information shown.

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The 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock is balanced by the running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, while the day and month windows in the top part of dial are balanced by the moon-phase and date indicator at 6 o’clock.

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The entire display is anchored by the central chronograph seconds hand and contained by the pulsometric scale marked around the dial flange.

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Complementing the Chronograph Calendar’s timeless style, rectangular chronograph pushers add a purposeful, modern air to the well-proportioned 12.05mm thick case, which is offered in steel or Le Grand Rose gold®.

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TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

Model:  MASTER® CONTROL CHRONOGRAPH CALENDAR

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Reference: Q4138420 (stainless steel)

Movement
Automatic mechanical movement,
Calibre: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 759
Number of parts: 356
Power reserve: 65 hours

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Functions: hours/minutes, small seconds, calendar with date,
day and month indications, moon phases, chronograph
Case
  • Stainless steel 
  • Le Grand Rose gold®
Satin and polished finishes
Sapphire crystal case-back
Dimensions: 40mm x 12.05mm
Water-resistance: 5 bar
Dial
Silver sunray finish, applied indexes
Strap
Novonappa® calf or alligator

Reference:  
  • Q4138420 (stainless steel), PRICE (14 500 $ )
  • Q4132520 (Le Grand Rose gold®)


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Monday, April 27, 2020

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Astronomical striking Grand Complication – Ode to music
















VACHERON CONSTANTINLes Cabinotiers Astronomical striking Grand Complication – Ode to music -  Unique piece 2020

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  • 19 complications for this unique double-sided minute repeater model displaying solar, sidereal and civil time complete with a perpetual calendar.
  •     An ultra-thin calibre less than 8 millimetres thick.
  •     “La Musique du Temps®": a range of one-of-a-kind timepieces created within the Les Cabinotiers department in tribute to the art of music.
  •     As partners of the Maison, Abbey Road Studios have recorded an original sound print delivered as a oneoff certificate for each of the pieces in the range dedicated to "La Musique du Temps®".

April 2020 - Displaying a range of indications including civil, solar and sidereal time, as well as combining 19 complications within this minute repeater calibre makes this unique watch a masterpiece of aesthetics and technical horology. Les Cabinotiers Astronomical striking grand complication – Ode to music is a tribute to the grand laws of Nature, which continue to exercise their formidable powers of fascination.


Les Cabinotiers Astronomical striking grand complication – Ode to Music
offers a fresh demonstration of Vacheron Constantin's technical mastery in the creation of horological grand complications. As part of the range poetically named "La Musique du Temps®", which includes a collection of exceptional chiming watches – all one-of-a-kind collector’s pieces –, this new creation is based first and foremost on a minute repeater which determined the construction of the entire calibre.

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The starting point was the famous Manufacture 1731 movement, due to its extreme slimness for a minute repeater mechanism. At just 3.90 mm thick, the 1731 calibre also has an impressive 60-hour power reserve and a magnificent sound quality, thanks in particular to the development of an entirely silent flying strike governor. This movement has therefore been reworked to accommodate the astronomical complications that make this timepiece an exceptional watch. With the new 1731 M820 calibre, this timepiece is thus equipped with 19 complications – a feat in itself – housed in a space barely 7.84 millimetres thick, without straying from the spirit of the ultra-thin base movement. One of the great challenges was to index the running equation of time to the minute repeater while maintaining extreme slenderness.

Perpetual calendar and solar time

This watch is equipped with a perpetual calendar that is harmoniously expressed on the blue opaline dial. The date is indicated by a serpentine hand in a snailed counter at 3 o'clock for the sake of legibility. The days, months and leap years are discreetly displayed in windows between 12 and 2 o'clock. The date is indicated by the precision moon phases and age, but also the day / night indication which is coaxial to the moon phases, a logical and lyrical complement to the perpetual calendar. The lower part of the dial is occupied by the pointer-type display of sunrise and sunset times, complemented by a linear indication of the length of day and night. A 4 o'clock aperture also reveals a disc bearing the signs of the zodiac, seasons, solstices and equinoxes.

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As heralded by the latter functions, this piece is first and foremost an astronomical watch which, in addition to the civil time indicated by the two central hands, also displays the particularities of solar time. Since the Earth's path around the Sun describes a trajectory that is not circular but instead elliptical, and given that the Earth's axis is inclined at 24° to the plane of its orbit, the time between two solar zenith passages is not the same throughout the year. This difference between the solar (true) day and the civil (average/mean) 24-hour day ranges from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of the year, coinciding only four times in 12 months.

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Known as the equation of time, or time correction in astronomical parlance, this information has long fascinated watchmakers. The fact that these variations are rigorously identical from one year to the next makes it possible to programme them mechanically via an annual cam that controls the display of this time differential. For this timepiece, the company's master watchmakers have chosen the rarer and more complex solution of a running equation of time. This consists in also displaying solar time by means of a central minutes hand, in this instance symbolically serrated, and thus enables instantaneous reading of both civil and solar time.

Sidereal time

An astronomical watch according to Vacheron Constantin's master watchmakers would not deserve its name without an indication of sidereal time. This is precisely what can be viewed on the back of this timepiece, with a sky chart ingeniously formed by two superimposed sapphire discs. Taking a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time it takes the Earth to complete a full 360° revolution, or sidereal day, is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds. Since the Earth both spins on its axis and revolves around the sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of departure in relation to the given star. On this model, the first lower mobile disc is rimmed by a sidereal time scale punctuated by the cardinal points, which thus rotates in step with sidereal time.

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Still on the same disc, an off-centred blue ellipse serves as a transparent indicator of the constellations of the celestial vault, which are positionned on the fixed upper disc. This mechanical ballet thus reveals the vision of the sky in motion as seen from a given point on Earth. This same second disc also bears a white ellipse for the celestial equator and a red ellipse for the ecliptic. While the first is a projection of the equator onto the celestial sphere that takes into account the Earth's approximately 24° inclination, the second represents – from a heliocentric point of view – the plane of the Earth's orbit serving as a reference for celestial coordinates. Finally, one notes an intense blue dial bearing the months of the year.

The difference between the sidereal day and the mean or average day means that the movable lower disc will accelerate daily by some four minutes in relation to the fixed outer disc, so as to indicate the current month at exactly midnight by means of a yellow arrow.

Housed in a pink gold case measuring 45 mm in diameter and barely 12.54 mm thick, perfectly designed to accommodate the sky chart corrector and the minute repeater slide on the case middle, this calibre is one of the very few movements to offer simultaneously a minutes repeater and the civil, solar and sidereal time..

This extreme level of complexity is matched by the exceptional finishing of this timepiece, including the Côtes de Genève that can be be admired through the transparency of a movement that appears to be floating in the stars. A midnight blue alligator leather strap with pin buckle rounds off the elegance of this captivatingly complex timepiece.

Les Cabinotiers
: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of models and to unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, theses complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, chiming watches have taken various forms: repeating on demand the hours, quarters or half-quarters, as well as the minutes depending on the versions; Grande and Petite Sonnerie (sounding the hours and quarters in passing, with or without repeating the hour on each quarter); and finally those with an alarm (programmable chime). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

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At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold repeater pocket watch registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques Barthélemi Vacheron, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

A sound print certified by Abbey Road Studios

Sound and music have always played a role in the Maison’s partnerships, the latest of which is with Abbey Road Studios, a name closely associated with iconic artists such as The Beatles, Adele and Oasis. In collaboration with the studios, Vacheron Constantin launched its Fiftysix® collection, backed by the “One of not Many” campaign. The partnership also has a role to play for “La musique du Temps”, as Vacheron Constantin entrusts Abbey Road Studios with recording the unique sound of each model.

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Above and beyond extremely similar values, Abbey Road Studios and Vacheron Constantin work closely together on creative collaborations involving both content creation and sharing expertise. Entrusting the production of the sound prints of our models to an internationally recognised expert in the recording world is an integral part of our collaborative endeavours, explains Laurent Perves, CMO Vacheron Constantin. For the first time, the repeater watches from “La Musique du Temps®” range have a unique sound print, recorded and certified by Abbey Road Studios. As Jeremy Huffelmann, Head of Partnerships at Abbey Road Studios, points out: “The opportunity to capture the sonic identity of these incredible timepieces is a privilege. These recordings perfectly encapsulate the shared values of craftsmanship, expertise and excellence that define our collaboration, whilst forever preserving the personality of these singular timepieces.”


Summary

Les Cabinotiers Astronomical striking grand complication – Ode to Music provides a fresh demonstration of Vacheron Constantin's technical mastery in the creation of horological grand complications. As part of the range of exceptional chiming watches named "La Musique du Temps®", this new one-of-a-kind creation is based first and foremost on a minute repeater which determined the construction of the entire movement. The starting point for the work was the famous Manufacture 1731 calibre, due to its extreme thinness. Redesigned to accommodate a range of astronomical functions, the new 1731 M820 calibre is thus equipped with 19 complications, notably displaying civil, solar and sidereal time – each with its own gear train in addition to that of the minute repeater. This technical feat is perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the ultra-thin base movement, since its 600 components are housed in a calibre less than 8 millimetres thick.

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Technical Specifications

Model: Les Cabinotiers Astronomical striking Grand Complication – Ode to music

Reference 6620C/000R-B656

Movement 
Calibre  1731 M820Developed and manufactured by Vacheron ConstantinMechanical, manual-winding
36 mm (16’’’)
diameter, 7.84 mm thick
Movement power reserve:
approximately 60 hours
3 Hz (21,600
vibrations/hour)
600 components
36 jewels

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Front
  • Hours, minutes,
  • Minute repeater (hours, quarters and minutes on demand)
  • Perpetual Calendar (day of the week, date, months and leap year)
  • Running equation of time
  • Precision moon phases
  • Age of the moon
  • Day / Night indication
  • Sunrise/ Sunset indication
  • Day / Night length indication
  • Tropic and zodiac disc (seasons, equinox, solstices and zodiac signs)
Back
Celestial hours and minutes
Transparent sky chart of the northern hemisphere with indication of the Milky Way, of the ecliptic and celestial equator
Case
18K 5N pink gold
45 mm diameter, 12.54 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial
Blue opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied baton-shaped hours-makers
Strap
Blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Delivered with an additional 18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model


One-of-a-kind timepiece
« Pièce unique » and « Les Cabinotiers » inscriptions engraved on the back of the timepiece


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#OneOfNotMany


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Press Release - 2020
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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