This blog does not involve in buying or selling of any products. All details provided by us are for informative purpose only. Kindly contact brand owners to get more information.
Geneva - June 29, 2023 - For its fifth participation in Only Watch, F.P.Journe presents a unique model designed exclusively for the occasion, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu.
The Chronomètre Furtif takes its name from the difficulty of reading the time if the watch is not facing you, as the blue enamel dial reveals the frosted numerals only in the reflection of light.
In addition, the moon phase and power reserve indications are integrated into the movement and visible only on the back. It is therefore a watch whose indications can be enjoyed only by its owner.
Movement Calibre 1522 Manual winding, 38 turns of the crown 18K rose Gold Dimensions of the movement Overall diameter: 33.50 mm Overall height: 5.90 mm Height of winding system: 2.20 mm Diameter of stem thread: S0.90 mm Balance Balance with 4 inertia weights Flat Anachron microflamed spring Mobile stud holder Free-sprung balance Nivatronic laser-welded to the collet Pinned GE stud Frequency: 21600 V/H, 3 Hz Inertia: 10.10mg*cm2 Angle of lift:52° Amplitude:12 h dial up: 320° 24 h dial up:280° Main Characteristics Time setting in position 3 and moon in position 2 of the crown. Escapement: Linear lever escapement 15 teeth
Dial Translucent blue Grand Feu enamel with laser-engraved matt numerals and track Matt blue hour and minute hands Orange seconds hand Autonomy56 +/- 2 hours Finishing Baseplate partly circular grained Steelwork with polished chamfers Polished screw heads with chamfered slots Pegs with polished rounded ends Case Tantalum Diameter: 42 mm Total height: 9.50mm Finishing: Sand-blasted case, polished and sand-blasted bezel, polished caseband decoration, polished chamfers Bracelet Tantalum 3-row flat-link Finish: sand-blasted with polished chamfers Number of parts Movement without dial: 197 Cased up with bracelet: 422 Jewels:21
🔰Edition Limitation: Unique piece for Only Watch2023
🔴Prices Lot21Estimated at CHF200,000 - CHF 400,000 💰
In anticipation of the production of a small series of a timepiece inspired by the FFC Blue prototype, a unique piece for Only Watch 2021, it seems useful to revisit its genesis and its unique way of reading the time, made possible by a hand whose fingers come to life as the hours pass.
The story of how the FFC Blue was created is like a fairy tale and for this reason deserves to be told again for those who do not know it. It began in 2009 when Mrs. Eleanor Coppola, Francis Ford Coppola’s wife, gave her illustrious filmmaker husband the Chronomètre à Résonance, which she found chic and elegant. Delighted with the gift, he immediately sent an invitation to its creator to come and meet him at his “Inglenook” winery in the Napa Valley. When they met in 2012, they discussed the different principles of representing the passing of time and the filmmaker asked if a watchmaker had ever considered displaying the hours in the way the ancients used to give them, by counting them on their fingers.
The idea of ticking the 12 digits of the hours with 5 fingers had appealed to François-Paul who, in 2014, wanted to take up the challenge of inventing an animated hand capable of displaying it in the same way. His motivation led him to start prototyping the FFC Blue watch the same year, which was supposed to go on sale at Only Watch2021.
History in motion
After having found, with Francis Ford Coppola, how to present the 12 digits of the hours with a single hand and 5 fingers, François-Paul set out to design a mechanism capable of adequately transcribing these digits into digital signs.
To avoid falling into naturalism, this artist, who is known to have a passion for history, like one of his sons who today is a professional historian, chose to draw his inspiration from a drawing of a prosthesis made by the famous French barber-surgeon Ambroise Paré (1509/1510 -1590).
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTOFor those not familiar with him, he is the one to whom we owe, thanks to his competence and understanding of the human body, undeniable progress in medicine. The mechanised hand found on the front of the FFC Blue is inspired by the one developed by this Renaissance physician.
Initially thought in bronze by its inventor, the final hand for the watch was made of engraved titanium, used to reduce the weight of the moving components so as to not affect the energy consumption of the caliber, the Octa 1300launched by the Manufacture F.P.Journe in 2001. As François-Paul points out, “The most important thing in watchmaking is what is least visible. In this case, it was a matter of getting five fingers to move with the least amount of effort”.
Managing the available energy
In order to use only the energy coming from the barrel, which ensures a power reserve of 5 days for the piece, the choice was made to install a “remontoir d’égalité” between the primary gear train and the display, as is done in the clocks of buildings when the hands to be moved are long and heavy.
Every hour, and for 40 minutes, the “remontoir d’égalité”, formed by a spring blade enclosed in a kind of barrel, a trigger and a sort of anchor mounted on one side on a wheel with an eccentric in its center, is rewound by the movement.
On the hour, the mechanism described by François-Paul as a sort of escapement acting once an hour, is released so that the energy accumulated from the main barrel can, through the intermediary of this tangentially acting fork, set in motion the series of 10 cams whose purpose is to control the movement of the fingers of the hand.
Placed on the left side and visible between the rotating minutes ring mounted on a large extra-flat ball bearing with a fixed cursor placed at noon, they make one revolution in 12 hours, each one activating a series of springs and toggles acting on the rise and fall of the 4 fingers, but also the translation of the thumb. The shape of the cams, associated with the teeth of each one, acts on the fingers which are mounted on a steel sling and which move then, practically without friction, like a loom shuttle.
Thanks to this ingenious system, the energy required to operate one finger, four fingers between 5 and 6 o’clock as well as between 9 and 10 o’clock, is always the same and calibrated so that it is done in complete safety and, above all, without affecting the chronometry of the regulating group.
Reinventing how time is displayed
By means of miniaturisation work pushed to the extreme and seven years of incessant labor spent making the whole thing reliable, the master, supported by the skills gathered within his manufacture, has managed to integrate all the components of the automatic caliber and this astonishing anthropomorphic mobile into a case measuring 42 mm in diameter and only 10,7 mm thick.
To achieve this exploit, François-Paul eliminated the dial and replaced the minute hand, which was impossible to use in the traditional way, with a rotating ring mounted on a large extra-flat ball bearing, as he did for the perpetual calendar of the Astronomic Souveraine. This modification made it possible to gain the few millimeters necessary for the placement of the articulated hand sculpted by a master engraver.
So, in the end, what does this high-flying timepiece bring to the table besides its original display? It proves that the best way to make a complicated watch is to think about how to save energy in order to make it work without having to add any. As François-Paul says, the watchmaker must have a light hand when designing a movement.
In the end, the Octa caliber is perfect for this approach because it has a constant and linear force and torque for 5days. By optimising the friction and using only the smoothest part of the spring, we find a very linear torque that allows adding functions without being afraid that everything will stop. Here’s the proof!
Case Platinum PT 950,unique case Dimensions: Ø: 42mm / Thickness: 10.70 mm. Number of parts_ Movement without dial: 396 Cased up on leather strap: 436 Jewels: 63 Dial Instantaneous digital hours indicated by the animated fingers of a Titanium hand Rotating minutes dial Mouvement Calibre Automatic FFC 1300.3 in 18K rose Gold. Number of components: Movement: 396 Unidirectional oscillating weight in 22K 5N Gold, engraved Ambroise Paré (1509-1590) & F.F.Coppola. Functions & Complications: 2
Dimensions of the movement_ Overall diameter: 34.20 mm Casing-up diameter: 30.40 mm Overall height: 8.10 mm Height of winding system: 3.28 mm Diameter of stem thread: S1.20 mm Balancier_ Balance with four adjustable inertia weights Anachron flat balance spring Mobile stud holder Free-sprung Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring Pinned GE stud Slipping mainspring Frequency: 21’600 V/h, 3Hz Inertia: 10.10 mg*cm2 Angle of lift: 52° Amplitude: 12h dial up: > 280° 90h dial up: > 220° Escapement_ In-line lever escapement, 15-tooth wheel Main characteristics_ Two position crown: Winding of the watch in position 1, clockwise Correction of time in position 2, anti-clockwise Autonomy:120 +/- 12 hours Winding speed on a watch winder: 274 clockwise rotations per 24 hours Finishing_ High grade Circular stripes on the bridges Titanium bridges with Titalyt® coating Baseplate partly circular grained Polished screw heads with chamfered slots Pegs with polished rounded ends Steelwork with polished chamfers Bracelet Alligator strap
Left: a possibly unique, specially commissioned, F.P.Journe 'Chronomètre à Résonance’, 2019 edition, in platinum, with resonance-controlled twin independent gear-train movement, constant force, power reserve and ice blue mother-of-pearl dial (Estimate: HK$ 5,000,000-10,000,000).
Right: limited to 20 pieces, an extremely rare F.P.Journe platinum Tourbillon Souverain, 'Reference TN' for 'Tourbillon Nouveau', with ruby dial, constant force, dead beat seconds, power reserve (Estimate: HK$ 3,200,000-6,400,000).
Hong Kong, 18 April 2023 – Christie's Hong Kong is honoured to present theUltimate Collection, a single-owner collection to be offered at a live auction taking place on 26 May,at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
Each watch in theUltimate Collectionstands out for its rarity and significance in horological history but, and also for its pristine condition – some timepieces even remain "factory double-sealed." Over the past 20 years a discerning private collector has meticulously assembled theUltimate Collection, which includes some of the most sought-after and hard-to-find models from prestigious watchmaking houses such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, and A. Lange & Söhne. The collection also features exceptional timepieces from renowned independent watchmakers such as F.P. Journe, considered the greatest living watchmaker, and the award-winning "Horological Brothers" Grönefeld, who received accolades at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève in 2022.
Treasures in the collection encompass Patek Philippe sports models, special dials, and potentially unique commissioned pieces, such as the 'Breguet numerals' Ref. 5270G-024. Also offered are early A. Lange & Söhne 'Lange 1' masterpieces, and sought-after Rolex Daytonas, ranging from contemporary to vintage, including a notable and impeccable Paul Newman Ref. 6264.
Of particular significance in this collection are specially commissioned pieces by F.P. Journe, such as this Chronomètre à Résonance with a striking ice blue mother-of-pearl dial.
A possibily one-of-a-kind F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance and one of the super-exclusive ‘RT’ or ‘Résonance Trois’ edition, produced for one year only in celebration of the iconic model’s 20th anniversary in 2019. Only available as standard in either rose gold or platinum with 40 mm cases with correspondingly coloured dials, the present platinum watch is an exceptional piece fitted with a beautifully lustrous blue mother of pearl dial.
A F.P. Journe watch of this significance would only have been offered to a most valued and loyal client of the brand, such as the present owner, personally approved by Mr. Journe. It is estimated to fetch between HK$ 5,000,000 and HK$ 10,000,000.
This rare version of F.P. Journe’s second-generation Tourbillon Souverain, 'Reference TN' for 'Tourbillon Nouveau', fitted with a precious ruby dial, was made in a highly exclusive edition of only 20 pieces.
Usually hardstone dials are produced as a circular disk in order to make the cutting action simpler and to minimize the risk of stress points from corners. However, F.P. Journe characteristically took a different approach, due to the configuration of apertures on the Tourbillon Souverain dial. The two crescent shaped pieces above and below are complex with numerous curves and differing radii, as well as the screw holes which have to be drilled.
Ultra-exclusive limited series pieces such as this are rare, usually only available by invitation or upon request from F.P. Journe, and are now regarded as some of the most important examples of each model.
Created circa 2019, it is estimated to fetch between HK$ 3,200,000 and HK$ 6,400,000.
================== CHRISTIE’S HONG KONG: Gigi Ho gigiho@christies.com Tel. +852 2978 6719 ---------------------------------------
Young Talent Competition Awarding to the winner 2023 at the
F.P.Journe Manufacture in Geneva: Alexandre Hazemann, France, for his
watch AH.02 Signature.
Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmakers in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organises the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.
Michael Tay, Alexandre Hazemann and François-Paul Journe.
The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realisation, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction.
The 2023 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.
The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2023is composed of key
personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour,
Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr
and François-Paul Journe.
AH.02 Signature and Monnin L’Immortale 📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
Introduction
For the 7th year of watchmaking studies at the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, we are asked to create a school watch. The subject imposed this year was to create a watch with a striking mechanism at the passage of the hours with a display of the hour in instantaneous jump. In addition to the technical constraints, our creative approach had to answer a philosophical question: "What do we need to be happy?”
So it was natural that I turned to the theme of passion. I built the general design of the project on different axes: balance, lightness, pure watchmaking art. AH.02 Signature is inspired by a deep and sincere reflection that gave birth to a rich and sourced creative thought.
History
This project was realised in collaboration with my long-time friend Victor Monnin. Over the years of studying together, we have come to understand the importance of teamwork. We share a philosophy, a "mindset" similar to that of two brothers.
Moreover, our skills complemented each other perfectly. Victor is more involved in project management and organisation, as well as in the machining of components. As for me, I have more facility for the watchmaking construction, the watchmaking calculations which ensue from it as well as the prototyping.
Realisation of the project
This adventure took place from October 4, 2021 to June 10, 2022. Chronologically, we started by making sketches including the design of the watches from October to November. We then moved on to computer design and watchmaking calculations from December to January. Then, we manufactured all the components during 2 months, from February to the end of March.
Monnin L’Immortale 📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
I should specify that we made all the parts except for the glass, the bracelet and the basic movement. The components were manufactured with traditional machines (milling machines, pointing machines...) but also with CNC. The movement LJP6900 was delivered in trays, with only the various pointings and millings carried out. We then had to finish cutting the bridges and the plate.
The following month was reserved for prototyping and reliability. This stage was for me the most complex. The goal was to find and solve the problems one by one in order to obtain a functional watch, capable of keeping time with impeccable precision. We then made the entire stainless steel case on a traditional machine to accommodate the double complication movement.
May was reserved for the finishing. I made the satin finishing of the bridge and of the faces with a cabron, the sandblasting of the plate... Finally, I had to find the suppliers to make the electroplating (Ruthenium anthracite).
To end, I made the final assembly to have the watch finished and functional for the beginning of June. It took us almost 8 months and more than 1,200 hours of work to complete our project in its entirety. The pace was very fast (about 15 hours per day) without any break.
How it works
A striking hour function differs significantly from a quarter repeater. Moreover, considering the synchronisation of the mechanisms, it is necessary to explain the principle of the instantaneous jumping hour.
A striking hour emits one sound per hour. We have chosen to link the jump of the hammer to the jump of the hour. To do this, we used a lever that performs 3 actions for the same cycle. The first action is to constantly stay in contact with the hour cam in the center of the movement.
Then, for the jump of the hours, a finger fixed on the lever drives the star wheel when the lever falls on the cam. Finally, for the third action, the lever arms the hammer in its ascending arc and then releases it when the cam jumps to let it strike with all its inertia against the gong.
We have also developed a unidirectional time setting system which allows the rotation of the cam in one direction only, which makes it impossible to break it. A retractable pinion is installed between the timer and the first time setting gear. In the event that the user corrects the time in the wrong direction, the pinion will retract and rotate freely.
Conclusion
This creation meant a lot to us and we wanted to end our 7 years of study in the most beautiful way. Through this adventure, we wanted to transform this school project into a professional project and thus make it a springboard for our career.
Monnin L’Immortale 📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
With my friend Victor Monnin, we decided that one day, we will create our independent workshop to produce these two striking watches. We know that the road is long and tortuous and that everything remains to be done.
The mission of The Hour Glass is to advance watch culture. They are known for their thoughtfully curated selection of brands, their passion in designing uniquely immersive retail experiences and their team of highly knowledgeable watch specialists. The Hour Glass strives to become the primary port of call for all enthusiasts and watch collectors alike. Everyday across their combined network of over 50 boutiques in the Asia Pacific region, they are poised to further the awareness and appreciation of watches and ready to guide their clients in their hunt for a superlative timepiece
Movement Caliber: LJP6900 re-worked / Automatic movement 14.8 lines - 34 jewels Frequency: 28,800 V/h (4 Hz) Unidirectional time setting Fully manufactured complications Striking hour - Instantaneous jumping hour Power reserve: 50 hours Case Stainless steel Diameter: 42 mm / Height: 12.8 mm Weight: 120 g Water-resistant to 3 ATM Custom made sapphire crystal - Swiss made Dial Skeleton Strap Bespoke strap made in France: Blue alligator