Thursday, September 29, 2022

Montres KF – EVOLUTION EI8HT Tourbillon

 

Montres KF EVOLUTION EI8HT Tourbillon Meteorite motifs

METEORITE NEW-GEN

What could be better than a fragment of the universe to highlight the latest EI8HT and its Novamag® 01 calibre? Embodying the ”Bespoke only” concept, this new model with its sleek design and cosmic materials enables Montres KF to establish its mechanical expertise in a lasting manner. When the cosmos meets chronometry.  
 
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The octagonal shape of this singular case determined the name of the KF models: EI8HT.

The pink gold or steel case features motifs borrowed from the meteorite dial. Hand-engraved in a play of alternating polished and decorated surfaces, this perfectly ergonomic case lays the foundations for an iconic design. This sleek and powerful 44.5 mm-diameter timepiece features a tourbillon cage that is dizzying in terms of both its size and the transparency of its mechanism.

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On the dial, the unique aesthetics of the meteorite – a fragment of cosmic matter – are expressed in grey, brown and blue shades echoing the colours of the straps, which are available in a wide variety of textures.

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The movement can be seen through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback. The mechanism is all the more visible in that is is built on pillars enabling it to fit even more closely to the glass on the back of the watch. True to its precision timekeeping aspirations, the Novamag® calibre gives pride of place to the tourbillon function. Visible through a large opening at 6 o’clock, this one-minute tourbillon is equipped with an escapement designed and developed 100% by Montres KF, as is the rest of the movement powering it.

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The result of this approach is a watch meeting the criteria of reinforced anti-magnetism and entirely made in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The tourbillon and balance-stop functions are naturally accompanied by the indication of the hours and minutes displayed on the dial, while the seconds tick past on the tourbillon cage.

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This calibre has been designed and built around its balance to meet the standards of pure chronometric performance: an extremely rare event in the industry. To achieve this, Karsten Frässdorf, inventor of the Spirograph® balance, has registered no less than five patents.

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This tourbillon mechanism, which is intended to be an everyday instrument, is water-resistant to 50 metres. It beats at the rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour, thereby guaranteeing optimal chronometric precision.

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Equipped with a twin barrel, this durable movement boasts an 84-hour power reserve theoretically enabling the watch to run for this period of time without needing to be manually wound via the crown. However, to improve chronometric precision, this autonomy is deliberately reduced to 66 hours by means of a “Maltese cross” stopwork mechanism guaranteeing a more stable driving force.

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In response to technological developments, this new movement is setting new standards in terms of resistance to magnetic fields – an important criterion when choosing a tourbillon, which is also endowed with an inherently magnetic meteorite dial. The Novamag® 01 calibre thus maintains its accuracy regardless of its environment. The reinforced anti-magnetism characteristic of KF complies with the ISO 764-2020 established in 2020, as implied by its code-name. This means that not only the escapement, but the entire movement – and more generally the watch as a whole – are endowed with enhanced anti-magnetic properties.  

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- Manual-winding movement 37.7 mm * 7.4 mm on the barrel bridge
- Twin barrel
- Index-free balance-spring with Grossman internal curve and Phillips external curve
- Reinforced anti-magnetism
- 42 sapphires
- Spirograph® balance: adjustment by inertia and thermocompensation

The face of your watch

Since the creation of the Maison, each timepiece has been designed according to the desires of its purchaser according to the ‘‘Bespoke only’’ concept. The aesthetics of this new complication can thus be completely personalised.

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- Choice of hands
- Dial material: manufactured or natural stone, in this case in meteorite
- Personalisation of balance studs: initials, motifs, Super-LumiNova®, gemsetting
- Choice of materials and strap finishes
- Personal inscriptions and case engraving
- Choice of hour-markers
- Personalised crown
- Choice of alloy for the case
Back of the watch:
- Choice of movement plate pattern, of bridge finishing and customisable inscription (on a dot)
.

Technical specifications

- One-minute tourbillon
- Spirograph® balance, three Montres KF patents
- Balance-stop device, Montres KF patent
- Frequency of 18,000 vph
- 44.5 mm in diameter, 12.2 mm thick
- Double-gasket crown ensuring water resistance to 50 metres (5 ATM)
- Reinforced anti-magnetism
- Crown-based shock-absorbing system, Montres KF patent
- Three-part case (bezel, middle, back)
- 66-hour power reserve with “Maltese cross” stopwork mechanism

 Patents with a purpose.
Moving ahead implies new developments.


Patent I : the origin

The Spirograph® balance, devised and developed by Karsten Frässdorf, is inspired by the purest traditions of chronometric precision. Its large size and its lightness endow it with exemplary regularity. 

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Made of steel, it is perfectly shock-resistant. In order to maintain its accurate timekeeping at all times, it is totally anti-magnetic.

Patent II : fine adjustment

The first patent registered when the Spirograph® was created naturally entailed the need to file a second patent involving the adjustment process. A first gold pair of adjustment screws serves to establish the right frequency, in this case 18,000 vibrations per hour. The second ultra-light pair of adjustment screws is devoted to fine adjustment. 

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These four screws are secured by locking bolts so as to prevent any change of position in case of impacts.

1. Classification weights
2. Adjustment screws
3. Locking bolts

Patent III : thermocompensation

Variations in temperature affect the dilatation of the components composing the escapement and hence its running as well as its precision. Each pair formed by the balance and balance-spring has its own specific typology that can almost be regarded as a signature. By means of thermocompensation, the Spirograph® remains permanently synchronised with the balance-spring.

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This method serves to adjust each balance whatever its nature, by pre-empting the impact of temperature variations. In case the balance-spring loses its elasticity due to a rise in temperature, the balance will in turn reduce the inertia, thereby compensating for the balance-spring’s loss of precision. The opposite will occur if the temperature drops.

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1. Balance plate
2. Thermocompensation screw
3. Personalisable studs
4. Adjustment screws (classification and adjustment screws)
5. Bar-attachment screw
6. Bar
7. Triple-plate balance-stop mechanism
8. Pin
9. Collet
10. Balance-staff
11. Balance-spring with two curves (Grossman and Phillips)

Patent IV : balance-stop mechanism

This mechanism enables the wearer of the watch to stop the tourbillon carriage as well as its balance at any time by pulling the crown outwards. The balance-stop mechanism actually entails certain risks, such as if the balance comes to a halt on one side. If this occurs, the component responsible for the stoppage could bump against the affix arms or the adjustment or classification screws and thus perturb the mechanism or even damage it.

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In order to avoid any such risks while not jeopardising the chronometric qualities of this tourbillon calibre, a new triple-plate balance-stop mechanism activated from below has been developed. Thanks to this inventive and ingenious construction, the balance-stop device can be mobilised at any time without any risk of damaging the escapement components or disturbing the fine adjustments made to the movement.
The calibre can be smoothly restarted simply by pressing the crown against the case, thereby serving to maintain a high degree of precision at all times.

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1. Winding stem
2. Sliding pinion
3. Lever
4. Spring
5. Outer ring
6. Pins
7. Inner ring
8. Triple plates


Patent V : Crown-based anti-shock device

In watchmaking, shock tests are done on the 9 o’clock side of the case so as to avoid shocks to the crown. On traditional models, if a watch falls on the crown side, the winding stem will inevitably bump against and damage the baseplate. 

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Thanks to the Montres KF patent, the crown stem can absorb shocks and thus avoid destroying the movement. The watch is thus protected whatever side of the case is subjected to the impact.

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 THE MANUFACTURE

Horological mastery
dedicated to serving individuality

Montres KF surprises the world of Swiss Haute Horlogerie by its ability to tailor its creations so as to reflect its clients’ imagination. More than a philosophy, KF is the designer of your dreams through bespoke customisation.

It took a man, Karsten Frässdorf, a master watchmaker crazy and bold enough to view watchmaking from a new angle. In 2016, this breath of fresh air in the industry led to the creation of the brand bearing his initials (KF), driven by a vision running firmly against the tide and taking the customer as the starting point for all its watch designs.

Radiating a resolutely contemporary style, KF is distinguished by authentic expertise inspired by chronometry (precision timekeeping). Representing exceptional collectibles, KF timepieces bear the “Made in La Chaux-de-Fonds” label for watches that are 100% developed and assembled in the brand’s workshops.

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It is also a singular Manufacture, capable of developing of any calibre and thereby exercising complete freedom as well as absolute creativity when it comes to innovation. KF also playfully ushers its clients into the fabulous world of timepiece design by giving them carte blanche to choose the design and complications of their watch.

This individuality is highly exclusive in that each model is by definition unique with regards to both its design and its production methods.

It is this “Atelier” spirit one discovers when visiting the brand located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the cradle of watchmaking and a city featured on the UNESCO World Heritage List for its watchmaking town planning.

At the workbench

It’s about a life movement but above all it’s about a man  Karsten Frässdorf

Watchmaking has been part of his life for almost four decades.
It all started at the age of 15 with a Junghans alarm clock that made a pretty loud ticking sound. This unmistakably horological melody has remained with him ever since, as has his alarm clock. Passionate about the grand and beautiful show staged by mechanical horology, he became a Master watchmaker, timer and developer. Karsten can create, develop and adjust any timepiece.

Progressively learning and honing his trade as an apprentice watchmaker, journeyman and Master watchmaker, he began his career in clockmaking before serving as an expert and later a workshop foreman for an auction house. At Gübelin, he discovered the world of Grand Complications, a passion that has remained undimmed to this day.

He successively opened a restoration workshop and then a movement development office before launching his namesake brand in the Swiss Jura, in 2016.

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To contact us : Claire Froté
cf@montres-kf.com
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