Monday, January 19, 2015

De Bethune – DB25T Zodiac















De BethuneDB25T Zodiac Limited Edition NEW

As the proud standard-bearer of a genuinely exclusive approach to Haute Horlogerie, the DB25T by De Bethune makes innovation the very heart of its construction reflecting a proud horological tradition.

Innovation has always been the touchstone of the masterpieces that have punctuated the history of horology. The grand masters used the technologies, the tools and the means of their era in order to surpass their own knowledge and push their achievements to ever-greater heights of excellence. It is this spirit of innovation that the watchmaking tradition cultivated by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet interprets in a resolutely modern mode. This artistic approach and this vision of contemporary watchmaking are grounded on the solid foundations of technical knowledge, well-mastered expertise and a culture nurtured by several centuries of history and enriched with all kinds of beauty.

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This creation features references to the imposing tower clocks that are still enthroned in certain European cities and which have been an infinite source of inspiration for horologists wishing to convey their beauty and their grandeur through the ages.

Table clocks or grandfather clocks, pocket watches and now wristwatches: the very essence of this horological culture graces the dial of the DB25T, notably in the aesthetic work on materials, the engraving and the light effects, but also and above all through consistently demonstrated miniaturisation technology.

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The round case of the DB25 and its elegantly openworked lugs frame a polished and blued titanium sky adorned with hand-engravings on solid gold and representing the 12 zodiac signs. These symbols, which are an integral part of the aesthetic and artistic world of horology, lend a sense of infinity to the depth of the De Bethune star-studded sky.
The radiance instilled by the silver-toned guilloché decoration radiating from the dial centre contributes to the multiple shimmering light effects on the finely grained rings, and on the openworked polished yellow gold hands.

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The technical nature and the high frequency of the DB2109 mechanism driving the jumping seconds display makes a striking contrast with the almost poetic delicacy with which this large blue hand finely points to every second. De Bethune wished to revive the traditions of the golden age of horology by infusing this movement with the soul and the majesty of the great historical regulator clocks. “Jumping seconds” was a natural choice to impart a noble cadence to the passing of time. The components are pared down to essentials and feature simplicity where required and complexity where necessary.

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A deltoid-shaped bridge adorned with the “Côtes De Bethune” motif supports the central seconds hand, while a double lever with four pallets drives the double gold wheel of this “jumping seconds”. The latter performs an impressive mechanical ballet rendered technically feasible by new technologies, but which is bound to thrill the heart – and mind – of any devotee of classical mechanisms.
Further enhancing this intensely private performance visible exclusively on the back of the watch, De Bethune has equipped the DB2109 with its silicon-titanium tourbillon making one rotation every 30 seconds at the optimal frequency of 36,000 vph. This ultra-light tourbillon comprises 63 parts, of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 grams!
A light, airy style expressing a profound underlying idea. The subtle gyrations of the tourbillon carriage and the ample, steady beat of the seconds. Refined decorations and well-balanced lines: this creation embodies the very essence of horological emotions, along with a form of absolute and uncompromising beauty.

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Technical Specifications

Ref: DB29RS1 DB25T Zodiac
20-piece limited edition

Calibre DB2109
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Functions: hours – minutes – central jumping seconds – movement operating indicator at 12
o’clock – tourbillon with 30-seconds indication on the back
Diameter 30 mm – 320 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – Côtes De Bethune
blued titanium bridges and parts
Self-regulating twin barrel*
Silicon/white gold balance – balance-spring with flat terminal curve *
De Bethune silicon/titanium 36,000 vph 30-second tourbillon*
Central jumping seconds
*
Silicon escape whee
l*
Jewelling: 50 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 4 days
* Manufacture De Bethune  patents and innovations

Fonctions
Hours – minutes – central jumping seconds – movement operating indicator at 12 o’clock –
tourbillon with 30-second indication on the backMovement
Calibre DB2109 – Mechanical hand-wound movement
Power reserve: 4 days
Case
White gold, drum-shaped – diameter 44 mm – thickness 10, 6 mm
Attachments: hollowed lugs
Glass: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown: at 3 o’clock –setting in two positions
Back: open – De Bethune 30" silicon/titanium Tourbillon, 36,000 vph – central jumping seconds
Calibre DB2109
Display
Dial: uilloché silver-toned – silver-toned hours and minutes rings – De Bethune star-studded
sky in blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with solid white gold stars, featuring solid gold
inserts hand-engraved by artist Michèle Rothen representing the 12 zodiac signs
Hands: yellow gold hours and minutes hand, jumping seconds hand in hand-polished and
blued steel.
Strap
Navy blue – extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

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Press release Geneva 2015
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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ORIS – Aquis Depth Gauge















ORIS – Aquis Depth Gauge Black DLC NEW

Back into the Deep
The critically acclaimed Oris Aquis Depth Gauge returns,
now with a blackened case and a yellow rubber strap

The Oris Aquis Depth Gauge was hailed by the international press as one of the most innovative diving watches of the century when it was launched in 2013. It answered the challenge of how to build a depth gauge into a mechanical watch. It had a pioneering depth gauge function, developed and patented by Oris.

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In keeping with the company’s 110-year heritage, Oris's solution to producing a mechanical watch with a depth gauge was pragmatic, with an inlet in the crystal at 12 o’clock. Beneath that was a channel milled into the outside edge of the crystal covering the dial. The inlet allowed water into the channel, creating a watermark that corresponded to yellow depth gauge indications marked on the crystal, giving the diver a clear readout to a depth of 100 metres. Gaskets between the crystal and the case meant the watch was still water-resistant to 50 bar (500 metres).

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The genius behind the function was in the application of Boyle-Mariotte’s Law, which states that ‘pressure x volume = constant’. In the case of the Aquis Depth Gauge, this means that as a diver wearing the watch descends into the deep, pressure builds, compressing the volume of air in the channel and allowing water
to enter the watch through the inlet. This lateral, Oris-patented solution appeared surprisingly simple to some observers, but it’s typical of the Oris philosophy – to find a way of creating the best possible watch at the best possible price. The Oris Aquis Depth Gauge is a ‘real watch for a real person’, as the company strapline promises.

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Now Oris has added a second version of the famous diver’s watch to its line-up. The new watch has a yellow rubber strap that features two additional ground-breaking Oris innovations – the safety anchor that prevents the strap from breaking loose, even after a heavy impact; and the sliding sledge clasp, which enables the wearer to adjust the size of the strap without undoing the clasp.

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The watch’s 46mm steel case has a resilient, sporty black DLC finish, and the unidirectional rotating bezel inlay is made of tungsten, a material as hard as emerald. Oris’s automatic Calibre 733, based on Sellita SW 200-1, beats inside the watch, powering a date window at 6 o’clock and a power reserve of 38 hours.
The Oris Aquis Depth Gauge will be available from early May 2015 and is priced CHF 3,250.

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Technical details

Model:  ORIS Aquis Depth Gauge

  Ref. No. 733 7675 4754
Set, Ø 46.00mm Black DLC finish

Automatic mechanical movement Oris Cal. 733, based on Sellita SW200-1 with date
window at 6 o'clock
Multi-piece 46mm stainless steel case, screw-in case back and crown protection with black DLC coating.
Water-resistant to 50 bar/500 metres
Diver’s unidirectional revolving top ring with tungsten inlay and minute scale
Protected screw-in crown with black DLC coating
Sapphire crystal, double domed with antireflective coating on both sides,
featuring a milled channel that allows water into the watch as part of the depth gauge function.
Yellow metre scale read off against watermark in channel milled into sapphire crystal Black dial with applied indices and Nickel hands, both with white Super- LumiNova® inlay
Yellow rubber strap with Oris-developed safety anchor and quick adjustment sliding-sledge folding clasp
Set includes waterproof case, additional black rubber strap and strap-change tools
Swiss Retail Price CHF 3,250/Set

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