Friday, September 18, 2020

Theo Auffret – SUBSCRIPTION “Tourbillon à Paris” Edition


Theo AuffreTSUBSCRIPTIONTourbillon à Paris” Platinium Limited Edition

THÉO AUFFRET

Theo Auffret, born in 1995, began his training as a restorative watchmaker, in parallel with his baccalaureate studies, at Dupont’s, in Pontoise. Then in 2012 he joined the professional programme as a restorative watchmaker apprentice in the workshops of Denis Corpechot, in the 8th Arrondissement of Paris.   
 
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During these two years, he saw many high-end watches and clocks of the most beautiful periods of watchmaking history. During a discussion about the remanufacturing of a part for a pocket watch, he had the chance to meet the renowned watchmaker / manufacturer Jean-Baptiste Viot. The latter would later offer him the chance to continue his apprenticeship in his workshops located on the outskirts of Paris, with all the necessary tools for designing and creating unique watches.

HERITAGE

At this time, Jean-Baptiste Viot was devoting part of his time to restoring exceptional pieces for museums and merchants, and at the same time he built a series of eight chronometers in the purest tradition of luxury watchmaking. He decided to entrust his new apprentice with the secrets of machining chronometer components and with the technicalities of construction and prototyping.

In the workshop library Theo studied passionately precision watches and clocks, and in particular the history of pieces made in Paris for scientific purposes. Jean-Baptiste Viot allowed him to use the workshop’s machinery and tools for the making of his own watch, and these were made available to him in the evenings, weekends and school holidays.

THE FIRST WATCH

After his apprenticeship programme in the workshops of Jean-Baptiste Viot, Theo left Paris for the shores of Lake Neuchâtel (Switzerland) and joined, in the capacity of model-maker, an independent and discreet workshop, which acted as subcontractors for major companies and employed an international team of talented watchmakers.

The still-unfinished prototype of the “Tourbillon à Paris” would be acclaimed in 2018 when it participated in the “Young Talents” contest organised by the F.P. Journe Company.

Back in Paris, Theo went back to the workshops where he had completed his apprenticeship, working on clock-making projects and restoration of ancient watches, and he decided to set up his own workshop on the river Seine and to concentrate once more on construction.

"Tourbillon in Paris"

Inspired by precision timekeepers and chronometers from the second half of the 18th century, the “Tourbillon à Paris” watch was designed based a flat central plate, allowing simple and robust machining. German silver or steel bridges thus maintain the gear train on either side of the movement, making the mechanics visible on the front and back of the case.

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The movement is also made visible thanks to a “regulator” display made up of a central minute hand and a silver and gold hour dial. A twenty second sector dial can be manufactured as an option on customer request. The hands are turned and polished by hand just like every component finishing in the timepiece.

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The visible mechanical triptych is made up of a barrel containing a powerful spring, developed for chronometry, a large gear train allowing the best possible transmission of energy, and a 14mm tourbillon carriage wich carries a balance and a Breguet hairspring oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour.

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Tourbillon carriage Prototype was updated from 18,000 AH to 21,600 to increase precision. The new escapement wheel is riveted to a wood polished pinion. Two cylindrical masses inspired by old marine chronometers allow the poising of the tourbillon carriage assembly.

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The 38mm case can be made in platinum, gold, silver or steel. The artisanal manufacture of the watch allows each customer a wide choice of options that he or she is invited to choose, such as the material and finish of the dials, the color of the screws, the shape of the hands. Each particular request is carefully studied.

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If the customer wishes, the regulation of the watch is prepared for a chronometry test at the observatory of the University of Besancon.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:   “Tourbillon à ParisEdition

MOVEMENT
Manual winding
Side pallets escapement, balance with fine adjustment screws, spiral without regulator
– 21,600 alternations per hour 3 Hz
– 50 hours power reserve
Main plate and bridges decorated with coal
Signed and numbered movement
Functions   Hours, Minutes, Tourbillon
HANDS AND DIALS
Regulator display
Silver, gold or platinum dials
Hand turned hands
CASE
A choice of steel case
– 38.5mm diameter without crown
– 12 mm of thickness
Hand-molded mineral glasses or sapphire glasses
STRAP
Custom leather strap - DAVID COLIN
Engraved buckel

THE BOXES :
– bespoke wooden box, made of white ebony and pear tree
– travelling leather box with silver buckle and nubuck interior
– choice of wood species, ebony boards and compartments of the box
– choice of leather for the travelling « marmotte » and casing of the wooden one
– gold or silver stamping of the customer’s initials

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Limited Edition
limited series -
20 pieces


Price incl. VAT  114'000 CHF


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Press release 2020
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www.escapementmagazine.com 
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