CHOPARD – L.U.C Perpetual T - Platinum Edition

CHOPARD – L.U.C Perpetual T - Platinum 43 Limited Edition 2019

L.U.C Perpetual T
The Mechanical Accomplishment For Aesthetes

Chopard presents a new eight-piece limited edition of its L.U.C Perpetual T model, crafted in platinum with a diamond-set bezel. The nobility of its horological complication, the richness of its decorations and the discreet sophistication of this horological creation sum up the full range of high standards integral to the legacy of Louis-Ulysse Chopard.

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Its tourbillon rubs shoulders with an extremely readable perpetual calendar mingled with extremely refined aesthetics. Chronometer-certified by the COSC and bearing the much-coveted Poinçon de Genève for the quality of its craftsmanship, the L.U.C Perpetual T timepiece is much more than a mere demonstration of watchmaking mastery, instead embodying a distinguished and functional watch designed for daily living.

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With the L.U.C Perpetual T, Chopard achieves one of the most prestigious pairings – between a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon – along with more than one week of operating autonomy, thereby firmly cementing the place of this new timepiece among horological aristocracy. In watchmaking, such nobility is acquired by mastery of technical complexity allied with a quest for refined aesthetics.

A perpetual calendar offering optimal readability

Making a perpetual calendar involves both technical and ergonomic issues. Displaying the complete date while taking account of the variable lengths of months and leap years is a constant challenge brilliantly met by Chopard Manufacture with the L.U.C 02.15-L calibre. The L.U.C Perpetual T brings the date to the foreground in the shape of a large twin-aperture date display. At 9 o’clock, the day of the week takes precedence over a day/night indication; while the months share the 3 o’clock space with the cycle of standard of leap years – the latter signalled by a red numeral.


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Moreover, the quest for ergonomics and thus user-friendliness extends beyond readability. Thanks to the four barrels of the Chopard Quattro technology, the L.U.C Perpetual T has a nine-day power reserve. So as not to overload the dial and preserve the harmony of its simplicity, the power-reserve indicator appears on the reverse side of the watch and can be read through a transparent sapphire crystal case-back.

Certified precision

The tourbillon of the L.U.C Perpetual T timepiece sits enthroned at 6 o’clock, topped by a meticulously polished steel bridge. Its constant rotation around its axis enables the rate of the watch to elude the effects of gravity. Each L.U.C Perpetual T has been successfully subjected to the trials conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.

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The COSC tests the rating precision and issues its timekeeping certificate only for watches meeting its demanding criteria. A proof of technical precision recalled by the ‘Chronometer’ inscription appearing on the dial.

Elaborate aesthetics

The black dial of this new solid gold L.U.C Perpetual T watch is adorned with a hand-engraved guilloché motif radiating from the large date and crossing through the hour-markers set with baguette-cut diamonds. The silver-toned counters of the perpetual calendar are also guilloché-worked in order to distinguish between the functions and accentuate the contrasts.

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As Chopard is dedicated to both outward and inner beauty, the entire L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L has been meticulously hand-decorated in accordance with the finest Haute Horlogerie traditions. The plates are circular-grained, the screws are polished, the bridges are bevelled and adorned with vertical Côtes de Genève and the jewels are set into gold chatons. These parts are all patiently polished and smoothed down by hand. The quality of these treatments, combined with the specific technical as well as design choices involved in its development, enable the L.U.C Perpetual T timepiece to earn the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, one of the most prestigious Swiss watch industry certifications.

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The lugs of its 43 mm-diameter case slim down the watch whilst ensuring outstanding comfort on the wrist. The bezel surrounding the dial is daintily set with baguette-set diamonds, a prestigious adornment crowning the onward march of time. A hand-sewn, alligator-lined black alligator leather strap lends the ultimate touch of elegance to this finely crafted model.

The creative approach behind a L.U.C watch consists in a quest for excellence encompassing all aspects of the timepiece. An elegant complication model featuring the precision and the kinematic appeal of the tourbillon, the L.U.C. Perpetual T is made to be admired and worn. Its COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification testify to the high standards governing the production of timepieces from Chopard Manufacture. While naturally rare due to the sheer complexity of crafting it, the L.U.C Perpetual T in platinum is issued in a limited edition that will be exclusively reserved for eight privileged collectors.

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Technical Specifications 

Model: L.U.C Perpetual T - Platinum Edition

Ref. 171940-9002 - Platinum
Case
Platinum
Total diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 14.90 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18k white gold crown with L.U.C logo: 6.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Bezel baguette-cut diamonds
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Transparent exhibition back
Movement
Manual Winding
Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva)
Calibre  L.U.C 02.15-L
L.U.C Quattro Technology "two sets of two stacked barrels"
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 9.35 mm
Number of jewels: 31 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve:  216 hours (9 days)
Bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial
Slate grey snailed counters dial with hand-guilloché motif focused on the calendar
Perpetual calendar dials (large-aperture date, day of the week, month and leap years)
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hour
Hour, minute, day, month and small seconds hands, and hour-markers
• Triangular day/night and year indications Baguette-cut diamonds hour-markers
Minute track
Functions and displays
Tourbillon, perpetual calendar
• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Tourbillon, Small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Large date at 12 o’clock
• Perpetual calendar
• Power-reverse indicator on the back
Strap
Hand-sewn black alligator leather with alligator leather lining
Platinum and 18k white gold folding clasp


Limited to Only 8-Pieces

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Press Release - 2019
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ANGELUS – U51 Diver Tourbillon Titanium Edition

ANGELUS – URBAN U51 Diver Tourbillon Titanium 45 Limited Edition 

Angelus reaches new chronometry achievement with
U51 Diver Tourbillon 5-day power reserve

Angelus keeps with its tradition of utilizing technologically forward materials to manufacture highly complicated and aesthetically interesting timepieces. The House stretches the limit of its famous diving tourbillon movement, adding a 5-day power reserve to its list of features.

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While meeting the required diver’s watch criteria, the U51 Diver Tourbillon comes with high technical features. In fact, the A-310 calibre is dedicated to efficiency, with a silicon lever escapement and with all bridges as plates made of titanium. Furthermore, Angelus’ engineers and watchmakers pushed the boundaries with a remarkable 5-day power reserve while keeping the 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) frequency, ensuring a high precision. Finally, the tourbillon cage is set on a ball bearing instead of pivots to gain in stability.

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Even though the U51 Diver Tourbillon is intended as a high-performance sporty timepiece, the skeletonised movement has been carefully decorated with sandblasted finishing, enhancing the natural colour variations of the titanium.

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The 45 mm titanium case features two large screw-down crowns. The two-position crown at 4 o’clock is used for winding and setting the time, while the crown at 2 o’clock is used to rotate the unidirectional 60-minute rotating bezel. Opposite, at the 9 o’clock position, a helium escape valve is placed to ensure the watch’s water resistance to 300 meters (1,000 feet), even during saturation diving so the helium molecules could not make their way into the case under pressure.

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Careful attention has been given to the aesthetic of the U51 Diver Tourbillon. The case is masterfully manufactured with a subtle interplay between sandblasted, brushed and polished surfaces, which takes full advantage of the titanium’s unique colours properties. The bezel of the case as the chapter ring are carved, recalling waves. The open display appeals with a contrasting chapter ring of stormy blue and striking orange colours. The hands, indexes and Arabic numerals are all filled with Super-Luminova for optimal readability.

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The U51 Diver Tourbillon comes on a matching blue rubber strap embossed with an Angelus logo and a titanium folding buckle.

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Technical Specifications

URBAN Collection

Model: U51 Diver Tourbillon Titanium Edition

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Reference number:  0TDCT.E01A.K008D

Movement
Calibre     A-310, mechanical hand-wound, one-minute flying tourbillon
Jewels     23
Diameter     32.80 mm
Height     4.30 mm
Power reserve     120 hours (5 days)
Frequency     4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Lever escapement    Silicon
Decoration    Sandblasted plates and bridges, wheels with Angelus six-spoke design, tourbillon cage with chamfered and polished edges
Functions    Hours, minutes, small seconds, unidirectional rotatable 60-minute indicator
Dial
Openwork with blue and orange chapter ring.
Hours’ indexes, chapter ring’s Arabic numbers and hands filled with Super-Luminova
Case
Material    Grade 5 titanium, sandblasted, brushed or polished finishing
Diameter     45.00 mm
Thickness     12.47 mm
Crowns     Screwed and engraved with Angelus logo
Crystal     Box shaped sapphire with anti-reflection coating both sides
Back     Sapphire
Water resistance     300 m / 1,000 ft
Strap
Material     Blue rubber embossed with Angelus logo
Buckle    Folding, grade 5 titanium


Limitation 
Limited Edition: 25 pieces

World retail price
CHF 32’800 without taxes (prices can be subject to change)

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Press Release - 2019
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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie - The sixth symphony – Unique Piece 2019

“La Musique du Temps®” - Les Cabinotiers Symphonia grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony

    “La Musique du Temps®”: an assortment of one-of-a-kind creations crafted within the Les Cabinotiers department as a tribute to the musical arts.
    As partners of the Maison, Abbey Road Studios have recorded an original sonic print delivered as a unique certificate for each of these models.

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This one-of-a-kind model paying tribute to the grand tradition of “musical” watches by Vacheron Constantin, houses a grande and petite sonnerie movement with a minute repeater mechanism. The case honours the art of hand engraving with a motif depicting the score of Beethoven’s sixth symphony.

Grande sonnerie watches

Grande sonnerie watches are in a class of their own among musical timepieces due to their complexity. It was not until 1992 that the first wristwatch model of this kind appeared. Since then, the mastery of these pieces that sound the hours and quarters in passing – with repetition of the time before each quarter in grande sonnerie mode and without repetition in petite sonnerie mode – has remained fairly uncommon due its extremely stringent construction requirements.

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Producing one calls for an integrated movement design that must also take into account several specificities of these complex mechanisms – starting with issues related to the security of its operation, given that any interference between the various functions is likely to damage the calibre. Energy management is also an essential parameter, since a grande sonnerie is called into action 96 times every 24 hours making a total of 912 hammer strikes on the watch's gongs. As far as sound production is concerned, it requires great technical and musical virtuosity to ensure that the sequences are clearly audible and melodiously clear.

Two centuries of expertise

Vacheron Constantin has mastered all these techniques for more than two centuries. The Manufacture's archives indeed reveal a first pocket watch with grande and petite sonnerie and minute repeater dating from 1817. The company registers also make numerous references to striking watches, often associated with other complications or astronomical functions. With the advent of the wristwatch, Vacheron Constantin's expertise in musical watches continued to be expressed, particularly through ultra-thin models, right the way through to 2017: key date for the Maison corresponding to the introduction of its Les Cabinotiers Symphonia watch, the first grande sonnerie wristwatch in Vacheron Constantin's history equipped with the 1860 calibre also featuring a minute repeater. It is this same movement, stemming from ten years of research and development, that drives Les Cabinotiers Symphonia grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony.

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This one-of-a-kind model is notably characterised by a dial adorned with a circular cross weave guilloché motif housed in an 18K 5N pink gold case, of which the middle bears a meticulously executed base-relief engraving of a musical score. The latter echoes Ludwig van Beethoven's "Pastoral" Sixth Symphony in F major, hand-engraved on an olive-leaf background, decor inspired by a pocket-watch from the Vacheron Constantin Heritage collection, named « Les Bergers d’Arcadie », created in 1923.

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The pure sound along with the understated dial punctuated by a small seconds display and two power-reserve indicators (one for the strikework with a treble clef hand-shape and the other for the timekeeping functions) endow this watch with the Maison’s characteristic aura of elegance. The beige tone of the dial also reinforces the classicism of the watch, enhanced by the open-tipped hands and the typography of the hour numerals.

Excellence in every detail

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony meets a double requirement consisting in making a supreme complication movement – comprising 727 parts that takes 500 hours of assembly to fit within a 37 mm diameter – that is as easy to use as it is perfectly secure. The bi-directional manual-winding calibre with two barrels, one delivering 72 hours of power reserve and the other 20 hours of strikework power reserve, is thus equipped with innovative security systems that protect its striking mechanisms. The latter are controlled by the bezel for the grande and petite sonnerie and by a push-piece housed in the crown for the minute repeater.

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To ensure a perfectly regular sequence of strikes on the monobloc goings, Vacheron Constantin's master watchmakers have succeeded in eliminating the "phantom quarters”, meaning the short silences generally perceptible between the hours and minutes struck by a repeater. For the sake of excellence, the calibre is also equipped with a non-dragging surprise jumper, a mechanism enabling accurate strikes on full hours and quarters. A masterpiece of elegance and complexity, this Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande sonnerie - The sixth symphony reveals the subtleties of its striking movement through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of pieces and unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva's buildings.

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In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme "La Musique du temps®".

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Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, "audible" watches have taken various forms: repeaters (indicating the hours and sometimes the quarters and minutes on request), sonnerie (striking) watches (indicating the hours and quarters in passing) and alarms (which can be programmed to ring at specific times). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

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At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold pocket watch with minute repeater registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélemy, in the very first production register kept in the company's archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

A sonic print certified by Abbey Road Studios

Sound and music have always played a role in the Maison’s partnerships, the latest of which is with Abbey Road Studios, a name closely associated with iconic artists such as The Beatles, Adele and Oasis. In collaboration with the studios, Vacheron Constantin launched its Fiftysix® collection, backed by the "One of not Many" campaign. The partnership also has a role to play for "La Musique du Temps®", as Vacheron Constantin entrusts Abbey Road Studios with recording the unique sound of each model.

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"Above and beyond extremely similar values, Abbey Road Studios and Vacheron Constantin work closely together on creative collaborations involving both content creation and sharing expertise. Entrusting the production of the sound prints of our pieces to an internationally recognised expert in the recording world is an integral part of our collaborative endeavours," explains Laurent Perves, CMO Vacheron Constantin. For the first time, the repeater watches from the “La Musique du Temps®” range have a unique sound imprint, recorded and certified by Abbey Road Studios. "The opportunity to capture the sonic identity of these incredible timepieces is a privilege," explains Jeremy Huffelmann, Head of Partnerships at Abbey Road Studios. “These recordings perfectly encapsulate the shared values of craftsmanship, expertise and excellence that define our collaboration, whilst forever preserving the personality of these singular timepieces.”

Sum-up

It was not until 1992 that the first grande sonnerie wristwatch appeared. Since then, the mastery of these pieces that sound the hours and quarters in passing – with repetition of the time before each quarter in grande sonnerie mode and without repetition in petite sonnerie mode – has remained fairly uncommon due to its extremely stringent construction requirements. While the Vacheron Constantin archives reveal such pocket watches as of the early 19thcentury, the first grande sonnerie wristwatch created by the Maison was unveiled in 2017, equipped with the 1860 calibre also featuring a minute repeater.

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It is this same 727-part movement that drives the Les Cabinotiers Symphonia grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony watch, whose 18K 5N pink gold case bears a meticulously executed bas-relief engraving of a musical score. The latter pays tribute to Ludwig van Beethoven's "Pastoral" Sixth Symphony in F major, hand-engraved on an olive-leaf background, decor inspired by a pocket-watch from the Vacheron Constantin Heritage collection, named « Les Bergers d’Arcadie », created in 1923.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

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Technical Specifications

Model: LES CABINOTIERS Symphonia Grande Sonnerie - The sixth symphony

REFERENCE 9200C/000R-B667

Movement
CALIBRE 1860
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Bi-directional mechanical manual-winding
37 mm (16 ¼) diameter, 9.1 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 72 hours;
Strikework power reserve: approximately 20 hours
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
2 barrels
727 components
74 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
INDICATIONS 
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 7 o’clock

• Grande sonnerie
• Petite sonnerie
• Minute repeater
• Strikework mode display grande sonnerie/petite sonnerie/silence with a selection via the bezel
• Movement power-reserve indicator
• Strikework power-reserve indicator

CASE
18K 5N pink gold with a base-relief engraving illustrating Ludwig van Beethoven's "Pastoral" Sixth Symphony
in F major, on an olive-leaf background, decor inspired by the pocket-watch « Les Bergers d’Arcadie »
45 mm diameter, 15.1 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
DIAL
18K gold, beige hand-guilloché, “vieux panier circulaire” decor
18K 5N pink gold applied hours-markers and movement power-reserve indicator
STRAP
Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large
square scales
CLASP
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped


PRESENTATION BOX & ACCESSORY Les Cabinotiers model
Abbey Road Studios Certificat

Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique » and « Les Cabinotiers » hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece

#vacheronconstantin
#OneOfNotMany
#SymphoniaGrandeSonnerie

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Press Release - 2019
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Carl F. Bucherer – HERITAGE Chrono BiCompax Annual Edition

Carl F. Bucherer – HERITAGE Chrono BiCompax Annual Calendar 41 mm Limited Edition


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RETRO REVISITED:
THE HERITAGE BICOMPAX ANNUAL

The latest addition to the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage collection is not just a look back at the watchmaker’s own history, but also an ode to the zeitgeist of the 1950s – in a decidedly modern package.

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The Heritage BiCompax Annual combines timeless design with contemporary sophis-tication – a watch born of more than 130 years of style and savoir faire. The Lucerne-based watchmaker has launched this chronograph – featuring a large date display, an annual calendar, and a distinctive BiCompax dial design – in two exclusive versions, each limited to 888 pieces.

An Era That Left Its Mark

For design fans and vintage-lovers, 1956 was a true banner year, giving us the Saarinen Tulip Chair and Eames Lounge Chair, Grace Kelly’s wedding dress and Elvis Presley’s first number one hit. Meanwhile, Switzerland was also celebrating a premiere of its own : it was around this time that Carl F. Bucherer introduced a chronograph with a design that was ahead of its time.

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The curved lines of the delicate 34 mm case combined with the elongated chronograph push buttons gave the watch a sporty look, while gold plating added a touch of elegance. The symmetrical BiCompax dial design, dominated by subdials on the left and right side of the longitudinal axis, has stood the test of time. This piece from the Carl F. Bucherer archives served the watchmakers as the inspiration for the Heritage BiCompax Annual – a modern reinterpretation of the original classic.

Classic Case Design Meets Modern Mechanics

The new Heritage BiCompax Annual has adopted the elegant shape of its predecessor, but in a modern 41 mm diameter stainless steel case. It is available in two versions, each limited to just 888 pieces – a tribute to the founding year of the Lucerne company with the long-standing tradition in 1888. Modern and pure, the stainless steel model boasts a silver dial, black totalizators, and a structured rubber strap.

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The bicolor model features a rose-and-champagne dial with the bezel, push buttons, and crown crafted from precious 18 k rose gold – a subtle nod to the baroque opulence of Lucerne. This exquisite horological package fastens to the wrist with a cognac brown calfskin strap.

An Old Soul with a Young Heart

Both watches are powered by the sophisticated CFB 1972 caliber automatic movement, which boasts 42 hours of power reserve. In addition to chronograph functionality, the watch also features an annual calendar that displays a large date above the center and the month between 4 and 5 o’clock.

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Just like its predecessor, the reinterpreted timepiece has a characteristic BiCompax display and tachymeter scale in a harmonious typeface. A successful combination of modern and vintage elements, the Heritage BiCompax Annual highlights the watchmaking finesse of Carl F. Bucherer, making it a worthy addition to the new Heritage collection.

Ode to a Rich Heritage

The Carl F. Bucherer Heritage line was launched in New York just last year. It is a tribute to both the multi­ faceted tradition of the Swiss watchmaker and Carl F. Bucherer’s roots in Lucerne.

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The ever-expanding Heritage collection consists of exclusive, limited-edition timepieces that unite unique design with more than 130 years of “Made of Lucerne” watchmaking tradition and craftsmanship. With refined complications and precious materials, these extraordinary wristwatches are bound to stand the test of time.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Facts and Figures: HERITAGE Chrono BiCompax Annual

Reference number: 

• 00.10803.07.42.01 stainless steel/rose gold

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• 00.10803.08.12.01 stainless steel

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Movement
Automatic, CFB 1972 caliber
Diameter 30.0 mm, height 7.3 mm,
47 jewels,
Power reserve of 42 hours
Functions: 
Chronograph : minutes and seconds counters,
annual calendar, large date, hour, minute, small seconds
Case
Stainless steel/18 k rose gold or stainless steel
Diameter 41 mm, height 14.05 mm
Double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Sapphire crystal case back
Water- resistant to 30 m ( 3 atm )
Dial
Rose-and-champagne or silver
Strap
Calfskin strap in cognac brown or embossed rubber in black,
stainless steel folding pin buckle

 - Limited Edition of 888 pieces


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Press release - 2019
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Contact:
For further information, please contact:
Gitte Hammerström, Head of Communications
Tel. +41 ( 0 )41 369 73 58
E-mail l : gitte.hammerstroem@carl-f-bucherer.com
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Press center
Carl F. Bucherer
Langensandstrasse 27
CH-6002 Lucerne
Tel. +41 41 369 70 70
Fax +41 41 369 70 72
E-mail: presscenter@carl-f-bucherer.com
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