Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Ulysse Nardin – NORTH SEA Minute Repeater Edition
















Ulysse NardinClassic NORTH SEA Minute Repeater Limited Edition

A Striking New Champlevé Minute Repeater: 
Ulysse Nardin Presents the NORTH SEA
SIHH 2017

In a powerful homage to the oil industry, the Ulysse Nardin North Sea Minute Repeater marks the latest addition to the unique timepieces in the Classic Collection.

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Finely crafted in gold and champlevé enamel, this timepiece is an incredibly realistic depiction of the mighty off-shore drilling rigs that dig deep for the world's precious "black gold". The glimmering champlevé rig, seen from a low angle, rises majestically from the black sea, with its delicately wrought waves in the foreground. A dramatic red sky highlights the stunningly detailed structure, while in the background, another golden rig works industrious-ly away.

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Three 18-Karat gold cranes - the Jaquemarts - move and sound when the minute repeater is activated indicating the hours, quarter hours and minutes. Known for its crystalline chimes as well as for its impressive mechanical timekeeping, the minute-repeater complication is highly respected in the horological industry and by connoisseurs as one of the most difficult to achieve.

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The champlevé enamel technique is a genuine rarity and this one is a fine example of this ancient art. First intro-duced in the 12th century, the champlevé enamel technique is mastered by only a handful of craftspeople world-wide. Firstly, it requires the engraver to define the design on gold plate, carefully creating the image in three - dimensions. The enameller then lays down the different-colored enamels. Finally, the effect is brought vividly to life by the engraver who chisels the metal to perfection once the dial has been polished.

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Minimal black indexes, and streamlined hour and minute hands allow the final results – the powerful champlevé rigs - to take center stage on the rose-gold dial.

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Indeed, the Ulysse Nardin North Sea Minute Repeater represents the finest in Haute Horlogerie, melding centu-ries-old artisanship with cutting-edge technology to create this noble tribute to industry.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Collection: Classico

Model: NORTH SEA Minute Repeater Edition

Reference: 736-61/E2-OIL - Rose Gold Limited Edition of 28 pieces

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Reference: 739-61/E2-OIL - Platinum Limited Edition of 18 pieces

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Movement 
Caliber UN-73
Power-Reserve:    Approximately 36 hours
Winding:    Manual winding
Functions
  • Minute repeater
  • Chiming  hours, quarters and minutes
  • Automatic chime activation system
  • Animated Jaquemarts
Case
  • 18ct Rose Gold
  • PT950 Platinum
Diameter:    42 mm
Case-back:    Sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Water-resistance:    30 m
Dial
Champlevé enamel with three Jaquemarts in 18-Karat gold
Crystal
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Band
Exclusive Alligator Black strap, with folding buckle

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Ulysse Nardin SA
Marketing Department
Rue du Jardin 3
2400 Le Locle
Switzerland
T :+4132 930 74 00
F :+4132 930 74 21
 
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Monday, February 27, 2017

Franck Muller – Vanguard™ V45 Skeleton SAPPHIRE Tourbillon



















Franck MullerVANGUARDV45 Skeleton SAPPHIRE Tourbillon


In-house Mechanical SAPPHIRE Treasure

While keeping its very strong DNA, the newly born Vanguard™ 60 hour power reserve skeleton provides a mesmerising view on an in-house crafted mechanical treasure. The bridges hand-chamfered to perfection reveal not only the manufactured movement of the watch but also a second counter at 6 o’clock. The architectural and geometric open worked bridges have been designed for watch lovers to admire the mechanism in its entirety.

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Revealing the soul of its mechanism through the transparency of its sapphire case, the new Vanguard™ skeleton sapphire showcases its movement to the fullest. Innovation and expertise coupled with Haute Horlogerie traditions has enabled Franck Muller® to design this one-of-a-kind timepiece, achieving an unprecedented achievement. Manufacturing a sapphire watchcases of this kind requires a high degree of hand-finishing, high expertise and a unique savoir-faire.

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The case, bezel and back this timepiece are milled from a single block of sapphire. It takes two months to machine the case and then two more to accomplish the polishing. The high-tech transparent tonneau watchcase is emphasized by the architectural design of the white PVD skeleton dial, hand-chamfered to perfection.

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The perfectly integrated transparent strap attached to the glass case is totally invisible so that the skin of the wrist can be seen through it. Taking a new direction with its minimalist style, the Vanguard skeleton sapphire offers a full visual access to its in-house manufactured movement.

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Technical details

Model: VANGUARDV45 Skeleton SAPPHIRE

Ref. V 45 T SQT SAPPHIRE

Movement
Calibre FM 2001
Manually wound mechanical movement
Dimensions of Movement: 21.90 x 29.40 and Height: 5.30 mm
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations/ hour
Number of Components: 193
Number of Jewels: 21

Movement decoration: Satin-brushed, hand-chamfered
Functions
Winding crown in 2 positions
Case
Sapphire
Dimensions: 44.00 mm X 53.70 mm X 12.80 mm
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
White PVD openwork dial 
Display: Hours and minutes
Strap
White Alligator strap

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Saturday, February 25, 2017

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600


VACHERON CONSTANTINLes Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 Tourbillon Galaxy White Gold 45mm

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical 
Grand Complication 3600

At SIHH 2017 luxury watch fair, Vacheron Constantin have unveiled one of the most complicated mechanical wristwatches of modern era: the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. Boasting 23 horological complications including astronomical functions, Tourbillon with three-week power reserve, solar time and running equation of time, this grand complication watch is a result of five years of development exclusively supervised by a dedicated master-watchmaker.

The Fine Watchmaking firmament 
welcomes a bright new star:

A shining new addition to the watchmaking galaxy SIHH 2017

  • One model / five years of development from scratch / one dedicated master-watchmaker
  • Worthwhile astronomical functions / 23 horological complications / new integrated movement
  • Tropical gear train for solar time and running equation of time
  • Tourbillon with three-week power reserve
  • Hallmark of Geneva certification
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The unique twin-dial Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 watch combines astronomy and the watchmaking art in a celestial white gold composition. Twenty-three essentially astronomical complications appear on the front and back dials of the watch, providing a reading of time in three modes – civil, solar and sidereal – each driven by its own gear train. Embodying the height of technical sophistication, its new fully integrated 514-part caliber measures a mere 8.7 mm thick, while six barrels guarantee three full weeks of autonomy.

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Pursuing the path traced by the majestic Reference 57260 – the world’s most complicated watch equipped with 57 complications created for the 260th anniversary of the Manufacture – Vacheron Constantin now presents Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. Featuring an all- new construction, this mechanical masterpiece follows in the eminent wake of a unique creation representing a milestone in the history of mechanical horology and laying a veritable cornerstone for new watchmaking feats by Vacheron Constantin.

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Five years of development starting from a blank page, a dedicated master-watchmaker, along with two years of design, have given life to the one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, displaying 23 complications on its twin dials. This Haute Horlogerie ‘heavenly phenomenon’ is one of the most complex ever made and heir to a proud lineage of astronomical timepieces. Astronomy, the study of celestial objects, is closely bound up with horology. The former seeks to explain the origins, evolution and properties of heavenly bodies. The latter strives to capture and mechanically express the course of time and its perpetual dance with the stars – a challenge successfully met in this watch providing a combined display of civil, solar and sidereal times by means of three separate gear trains.

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A remarkable feat of miniaturisation and engineering, the new Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3600 – an integrated movement comprising 514-part while measuring just 8.7mm thick – controls more than 20 functions and has a three-week power reserve. It is yet another vivid demonstration of the technical expertise cultivated by the Maison in the field of astronomical complications.

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A remarkable feat of miniaturisation and engineering, the new Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3600 – an integrated movement comprising 514-part while measuring just 8.7 mm thick – controls more than 20 functions and has a three- week power reserve. It is yet another vivid demonstration of the technical expertise cultivated by the Maison in the field of astronomical complications. This expertise dates back to the late 19th century, with pocket-watches featuring a perpetual calendar, moon phases and sidereal time; and later, in 1914, equipped with a running equation of time display. More recent exceptional models – such as the Tour de l’Île (16 complications) presented in 2005 and Reference 57260 (the world’s most complicated watch, 57 complications) in 2015 – bear further eloquent testimony to this path marked by remarkable achievements.

A waltz in triple – civil, solar and sidereal – time


Epitomising the peak of horological mastery, this unique timepiece equipped with a wealth of astronomical complications united within an incredibly small area represents an impressive sum of knowledge, calculations and fine adjustments. Its captivating functions notably feature the triple-time civil, solar and sidereal displays powered by three distinct gear trains, including a “tropical” gear train dedicated to all the solar functions.

Swept over by a pair of white gold open-tipped hands, civil (or standard) time is read off in the traditional manner on the front dial. Civil time is a universally recognised mean time based on the fictional principle that the Sun moves around the equator at a constant speed throughout the year, averaging one full turn every 24 hours. This convenient and conventional choice divides the year into 365.25 days, each day into 24 hours and each hour into 60 minutes.

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True solar time is on the other hand based on the visible trajectory of the Sun in the course of the day, expressed through its hour angle measured at a given place and time. Depending on the day of the year, the difference between solar time and mean time ranges from +14 to -16 minutes, with the two exactly coinciding only four times a year. This discrepancy is due to the fact that the Earth’s orbit is elliptical (and not round); that the Sun is not in the centre of this ellipse; that the Earth does not follow this orbit at a constant speed; and lastly that the Earth’s rotation axis is tilted in relation to the plane of its orbit.

Head in the stars

Thirdly, sidereal time is read off on the back of the watch. Technically regarded as an astronomical time scale based on the Earth’s rate of rotation measured with respect to the apparent motion of the ‘fixed’ stars as observed from a local meridian, sidereal time differs from mean time by approximately four minutes per day, meaning that 24 sidereal hours correspond to 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds of civil time. Sidereal hours and minutes are indicated in an original and refined way by means of two superimposed sapphire discs.

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The lower one forming the background features the celestial dome, the celestial time minute-track and the four cardinal points; while the second one placed on top bears the constellations, the projections of the equator (white circle) and the ecliptic (red circle) – the latter depicting the Sun’s annual trajectory as seen from Earth. This Lambert projection is an authentic scientific map corresponding to the constellations in the Northern Hemisphere.

Running equation of time on tropical gear train

To measure and display the difference between civil and solar time, this timepiece is equipped with a complex and refined equation of time mechanism. Moreover, the latter is also a ‘running’ equation of time, a kind rarely seen in wristwatches and indicating solar time by means of an additional coaxial pink gold minutes hand adorned with a cut- out sun. The equation of time is generally displayed by a hand moving across an auxiliary sector with a scale running from +14 to -16 minutes and requiring a bit of mental arithmetic to check solar time.


The running equation of time is far more complex to create and enables instant readings of solar and civil times. To ensure exactitude and precision, Vacheron Constantin has adjusted it to a tropical gear train simulating the tropical year, meaning the time the Earth takes to make a full turn around the Sun and corresponding to 365.2421898 days.

Time and tides

This unique creation features a doubled-sided display of 23 complications. On the front, the slate grey dial reveals 15 artfully arranged complications. As well as readings of civil and solar time (running equation of time) by three coaxial hands, it also has a perpetual calendar with a precision moon phase as well as a remarkable mareoscope composed of a tide level indicator and a 3D depiction of the Earth-Moon-Sun alignment. Tides are governed by physical laws and depend on the gravitational attraction and centrifugal forces of these three heavenly bodies.


Representing a ‘memory’ of time yet to come, a perpetual calendar is able to keep track of the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar with no need for any intervention other than a date change every 400 years. It displays the day of the week, the month and the leap-year cycle through apertures, while pointing to the date with a serpentine hand.


The fascinatingly elegant precision moon-phase display requires a one-day correction only once in 122 years and is read off by means of two superimposed discs bearing a laser- engraved true image of the full moon, a day/night indication and the age of the moon – meaning the number of days elapsed since the last full moon.

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These precious functions are complemented by sunrise and sunset times, pointed two by slim hands moving over two graduated scales, as well as the length of day and night appearing on a special gauge at 6 o’clock. This set of complications that occur but rarely in the Fine Watchmaking sky is further enriched by other captivating indications arranged in a semi-circle: zodiacal signs, seasons, solstices and equinoxes.

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Solstices – at which the day is at minimum or maximum length – occur twice a year in summer and winter; whereas equinoxes – when day and night are of equal length – correspond to the start of spring and autumn.

Stellar transparency

On the back of the watch, a second dial is also brimming with worthwhile astronomical functions. Composed of two superimposed sapphire discs, it is distinguished by its limpid, airy design as well as the originality of its translucent celestial chart for which a patent has been filed. In the foreground, this display depicts the constellation viewed from the Northern Hemisphere, ringed by an anthracite inner bezel ring showing the months of the year as well as a gauge-type power-reserve indicator.

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On this same transparent disc, two ellipses – one red and the other white – respectively correspond to the projections of the ecliptic and the celestial equator. Positioned beneath the constellation, a second disc rimmed by a graduated scale displays sidereal time and the four cardinal points, while an anthracite-coloured sphere reveals a see-through view of the celestial map. In addition, this innovative sky chart also provides a fascinating glimpse of the tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

A feat of technical sophistication and miniaturisation

The extremely complex and exclusive Caliber 3600 powering this exceptional watch called for five years of development, from the start of its fully integrated conceptualisation through to the finishing touches on its refined exterior. This mechanical manual-winding movement not only achieves the feat of combining more than 20 horological complications – including three distinct times driven by three dedicated gear trains – but also has an extraordinary three-week power reserve ensured by six barrels, coupled by three. It naturally takes considerable energy to ensure that such an impressive number of astronomical indications operates with all due precision.

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To achieve this, the Manufacture worked simultaneously on two fronts: by seeking to save energy on the one hand, and by increasing the size of its power supply. So as to optimise the energy stored as well as its transmission, the barrel springs are made from a sturdy and ductile Bioflex®* alloy, while the involute gears mesh in an ideal manner. Finally, the six barrels guarantee a substantial storage volume, while keeping the caliber as slim as possible. The resulting ensemble is a true feat of miniaturisation comprising 514-part finely adjusted and meticulously decorated parts and measuring just 8.7 mm thick! This unique mechanism, equipped with a tourbillon featuring a large balance wheel for enhanced precision and regularity, fits neatly inside an elegant 45 mm-diameter white gold case.

* Bioflex® is a registered mark which does not belong to Vacheron Constantin.

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The eminently legible, visually harmonious and original display of its 23 functions also represents a technical and aesthetic tour de force. Enabling a beautifully balanced layout on the front dial, its movement is adorned with a matt finish and transparent jewels so as to guarantee optimal readability of its sapphire-disc display on the back. Like the entire Vacheron Constantin collection, Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 bears the Hallmark of Geneva, confirming that it meets the numerous demanding criteria governing this prestigious quality certification.

Reaching for the stars

Presented in the collection Les Cabinotier, made of exclusive timepieces, this astronomical supercomplication model exemplifies the tradition of Geneva’s 18th century “cabinotiers”. These highly specialised watchmaking artisans in their attic workshops created authentic bespoke masterpieces intended for prestigious clients around the world. Fired by the same spirit of blending horological prowess with exclusive service and extreme personalisation, Vacheron Constantin perpetuates this same philosophy of excellence.

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The quintessentially rare Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 is issued in a limited edition of one. Fitted with an alligator leather strap secured by a white gold pin buckle, it comes in a luxurious presentation box adorned with wood marquetry.
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#VCcelestia

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Technical details

Link to photo album  BIG FOTO

Model: Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600

Reference 9720C/000G-B281
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Calibre 3600 Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
36 mm (15 ¾’’’) diameter, 8.7 mm thick
Approximately 3 weeks of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
514 components
64 jewels
Indications
Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, day/night indication, precision moon phase, age of the moon, running equation of time, sunrise and sunset time, day and night length, seasons, solstices, equinoxes and zodiacal signs, tide level indicator, Sun-Earth-Moon conjunction, opposition and quadrature, transparent sky chart of the northern hemisphere with indication of the Milky Way, of the ecliptic and celestial equator, hours and minutes of sidereal time, tourbillon, 3 weeks of power reserve (6 barrels), power reserve indication
Case
18K white gold
45 mm diameter, 13.6 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Slate-colored opaline
18K gold applied hour-markers
18K gold hands
Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell,
hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp:18K white gold pin buckle; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass

Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique » and « Les Cabinotiers » engraved on the back of the timepiece

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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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