Sunday, December 31, 2023

RICHARD MILLE – RM 33-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal Carbon TPT®


RICHARD MILLERM 33-03 Rafael Nadal Carbon TPT® Automatic 2023

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Inspired by the tourbillon watches that Rafael Nadal wears on the tennis court, the ‘baby Nadal’ collection is designed as a condensate of technology for anyone in thrall to performance. 

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The RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal, fourth timepiece in the collection, is fully worthy of its place in this distinguished lineup, to which it brings a patented innovation, namely the butterfly rotor.

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 In our respective domains, we both seek to achieve excellence. We speak the same language, Richard and I. We’re both passionate about our work. Keeping alive this flame of passion for what we do each day is essential to me. It is heart-warming to feel the confidence that he and the teams show in allowing me to participate in this singular adventure,’ shares Rafael Nadal.

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Three years of development were necessary to coax from its chrysalis this new system for movement winding which spreads its wings in the RM 35-03

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While the Calibre RMAL1 of the RM 35-02 already possessed a variable geometry rotor — a signature component of Richard Mille automatic movements —  the butterfly rotor of the RM 35-03 allows the wearer to directly interact with the rotor’s geometry, controlling the movement’s winding speed based on lifestyle and activity levels, for a complication that is playful and practical in equal measure.

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Previously, any modification of the rotor’s geometry needed to be done by one of our licensed watchmakers. We have perfected this system and given wearers the possibility of directly acting on the watch’s winding speed,’ explains Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for Movements. ‘It’s like a driver being able to adjust the transmission style from city use to racetrack by activating the sports mode.’

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The butterfly rotor consists of two grade 5 titanium arms mounted with heavy metal weight segments, activated by a separate gear train via a dedicated push-piece. In their initial position, the weight segments create a radial displacement of the gravitational centre outward, converting the wearer’s every movement into the torque needed to rewind the barrel. 

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Press the push-piece at 7 o’clock, however, and the rotor’s gears spread the two weights to a 180° angle. The gravitational centre is aligned and the rotor returns to a balanced position, suspending the winding process and thereby preventing excessive winding of the movement.

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In shifting between modes—from the normal mode that winds the barrel spring to the ‘sports mode’ that suspends the rotor’s activity—pressure on the push-piece prompts the function to deliver haptic feedback, allowing the wearer to actually feel the weight segments springing apart on their wrist. 

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A winding indicator at 6 o’clock on the dial, shows whether the oscillating weight is active (ON) or not (OFF). Rounding off the movement commands is a function selector. At a press of the push-piece at 2 o’clock, the user may shift between winding (W), neutral (N) and time-setting (H) activities.

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Athletic and ergonomic in its lines, the RM 35-03 is available in three versions—blue and white Quartz TPT ®, Carbon TPT® and white Quartz TPT®, and Carbon TPT® - featuring cut-outs inspired by the RM 27-04 Tourbillon. Entirely skeletonised, the movement can be admired from both sides thanks to sapphire crystals on the front and back. 

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The baseplate and bridges, crafted of grade 5 titanium with a grey electroplasma and PVD treatment, further accentuate the bold visual statement ofthis watch. The openwork hands sweep along the outer flange, also in microblasted grade 5 titanium, punctuated with the numbers 3, 6, 9 and 12 and slanted inward towards the movement to enhance depth.

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This elegant exterior visually highlights the technical prowess of the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal. With this model and its amazing ‘butterfly rotor’ the wearer can now truly experience their watch as an extension of the body.

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Technical Specifications


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 Model: RM 33-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal Carbon TPT®

CASE
Material: Carbon TPT®
Dimensions: 43.15 x 49.95 x 13.15 mm
Glass: Sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment (both sides) 1.50 mm
Crown: Grade 5 titanium and Carbon TPT® with O-ring seal in rubber
Case back: Sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment (both sides) 1.20 mm
Water-resistant to 50 meters
DIAL
Skeletonized
Thickness: 0.75 mm
FLANGES
Crafted of 5N PVD treated titanium; hour index points filled with approved luminous material.
CRYSTAL
Bezel side
    In sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
    Thickness: 1.00 mm
Caseback
    In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
    Thickness: 1.00 mm at the centre; outer edges 1.53 mm
Functions/Indications
 Hours, minutes, seconds, patented butterfly rotor, sport mode and function selector
MOVEMENT
CALIBRE RMXP2
Skeletonised automatic-winding movement
Dimensions: 31.25 x 29.45 mm
Thickness: 5.92 mm
Number of jewels: 38
Barrel arbour: in AP 20 steel
Balance: Glucydur®, 2 arms and 4 setting weights, moment of inertia 4.8 mg•cm2, angle of lift 53°  
Frequency: 28'800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve of 55 hours
STEEL PARTS
Black rubber strap


🔴 Price 236,650 EUR / USD 238'000 without taxes  💰

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Press releases - 2023
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RICHARD MILLE
Communications Director
Richard Mille Europe, Middle East & Africa Ltd.
Mobile 44 (0) 77 47 640013
Email  beatrice.giusti@richardmille-emea.com
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Friday, December 29, 2023

Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Edition

 

Carl F. BuchererMANERO Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Automatic Edition 2023

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 A REVOLUTION IN WATCHMAKING AND A LEGACY FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS: THE MANERO PERIPHERAL PERPETUAL CALENDAR, ACCURATE UNTIL THE NEXT CENTURY, IS A CONSTANT COMPANION FOR THE JOURNEY THROUGH TIME.

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Distinctive color-blocked designs set in 18 K rose gold cases create a striking aesthetic that's ideal for contemporary urban lifestyles. Within, a movement featuring unimaginable accuracy, combining - for the first time - a perpetual calendar, a moon-phase display and a peripherally mounted automatic winding system. 

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With eye-catching visual appeal from the front and unobstructed views of the movement through the case back, thanks to CFB's signature peripheral technology, these timepieces balance modern style with exemplary workmanship.

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The Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar is an astonishing feat of horological mechanical engineering, displaying the leap year, date, day, month and moon phase in a small window and four subdials. Its signature complication - from which it draws its name - means it can maintain the correct date for decades to come, without the wearer ever having to make corrections between months of varying lengths.

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Even taking leap years into account, the timepiece will remain accurate until the year 2100 before requiring a small adjustment - and then will require further adjustments only every century. That lends the timepiece unmatched power - not just to become a treasured companion throughout the wearer's lifetime, present at every major life event and richly imbued with their personal story, but a legacy with the potential to become a family heirloom passed down the generations.

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Profound finesse That precision is complemented by the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar's moon-phase complication - an exquisite piece of craftsmanship in itself. It is comprised of hand-engraved hemispheric rose gold moons on aventurine.

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One final complication: A peripherally mounted automatic winding system. With a bidirectional oscillating weight that turns on three frictionless ceramic ball-bearings housed in shock-absorbing mountings, this ensures that the view of the movement from the caseback is never obscured and is one of CFB's signature peripheral technologies. Integrating all these components and boasting a 55-hour power reserve, the CFB A2055 caliber movement exemplifies the watchmaking finesse of Carl F. Bucherer

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Unmistakable style The movement lies beneath designs finished in bold colorways that stand out for their innate confidence and unmistakable style. Available in black, green and taupe, the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar embodies the Manero product family, created for those living in our most vibrant and fashionable cities. Also available - exciusively through Bucherer 1888 and limited to just eight pieces - is а version in ап arresting rose hue.

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Each Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar features а sunray-Brushed dial center and opaline index zone, with rose-gold-plated wedge index marks to complement the case. Dials are color-matched to calfskin straps that feature а Milky Way texture, quick release system and 18 К rose gold pin-lock folding clasp.

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These designs represent CFB's emBrace of fashion and а passion for color - а marker of its widening appeal as it evolves beyond the traditions and conventions of high-end watchmaking.

#ExploringTime

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Facts & Figures MANERO Peripheral Perpetual Calendar   

Movement
Automatic Calibre CFB A2055
Jewels 33
Diameter 30.60 mm
Height 5.73 mm
Power reserve 55 hours, COSC-certified Chronometer
Functions
Perpetual calendar (month, date, and weekday), Peripheral technology, Leap year, Hour, Minute, Perpetual calendar, Moon phase, Moon phase (hand-engraved hemispheric white gold moons on aventurine)
Case
18 K Rose gold
Diameter 41.60 mm
Height 11.73 mm
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side
Case back with sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: to 3 bar (30 m)
Dial
Taupe, Green, Rose, Deep black
Rose gold plated wedge hands
Rose-gold-plated-wedge index marks
Sunray-brushed center and opaline index zone
Strap
Gradient-colored calfskin strap with quick release system 18 K Rose gold,
18 K Rose gold pin lock folding clasp
  • Ref.  00.10916.03.93.04 - Taupe  * Recommended retail price  EUR 41.000*
  • Ref.  00.10916.03.93.01 - Green * Recommended retail price  EUR 41.000*
  • Ref.  00.10916.03.93.02 - Rose * price  EUR 41.000* Limited edition 8 pieces
  • Ref.  00.10916.03.33.01 - Deep black  * Recommended retail price  EUR 41.000*  

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Press Release - 2023
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Contact:
For further information, please contact:
Raphaela Bodmer, Head of Communications
Tel. +41 ( 0 )41 369 73 58
E-mail l : raphaela.bodmer@carl-f-bucherer.com
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Press center
Carl F. Bucherer
Langensandstrasse 27
CH-6002 Lucerne
Tel. +41 41 369 70 70
Fax +41 41 369 70 72
E-mail: presscenter@carl-f-bucherer.com

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Thursday, December 28, 2023

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Edition

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack41mm Сeramic Edition  2023

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Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet unveils a new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked limited edition in collaboration with brand and label Cactus Jack, founded by American hip hop artist Travis Scott. This 41 mm model is crafted in brown ceramic – a first for Audemars Piguet. The sapphire dial provides a glimpse of the openworked selfwinding perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 5135

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To celebrate this collaboration, a number of design elements refer to Cactus Jack’s graphics, while parts of the dial, including the moon phase indication, are endowed with a luminescent coating that glows blue or green in the dark in a nod to the brand’s aesthetic codes. 

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Combining classic complication with contemporary material, this limited edition illustrates Audemars Piguet’s free and daring spirit, as well as its ability to push back the boundaries of watchmaking and create strong links with fields of creative practice over the years.

THE ENCOUNTER OF SEVERAL UNIVERSES

Audemars Piguet has always fostered creative synergies with different universes, including sport, pop culture, art and entertainment. Thanks to its collaboration with personalities such as Jay-Z (2005) and LeBron James (2013), the Manufacture has strengthened its links to pop culture since the early 2000s. AP has since become one of the most quoted brands in rap songs. 

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Today, the Le Brassus watchmaker has teamed up with Cactus Jack to design this new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Limited Edition, which bears the aesthetic codes of the two brands.

NICKNAMED "THE CHOCOLATE AP" BY TRAVIS SCOTT

Audemars Piguet presents its first Royal Oak model in brown ceramic – a signature colour for Cactus Jack. This light and scratch resistant material can be admired on the watch’s 41 mm case and bracelet studs.

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Ceramic is made from yttrium-stabilised Zirconium Oxide powder (Zr2O), which is combined with a binder and metal oxides that will give it its final chocolate colour once the ceramic has been sintered at over 1000°C. Achieving uniform colour is a delicate and crucial stage in the manufacturing process. Each component is then pre-polished and pre-satin-brushed before being finished by hand to reach the Manufacture’s trademark alternation of satin-brushed surfaces and polished chamfers.  

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 “The chocolate AP,” as Travis Scott likes to call it in his latest album, features white gold hexagonal screws as well as a sapphire dial revealing the openworked architecture of Calibre 5135. This movement combines rhodium-toned components with pink-gold-toned hues subtly echoing the thin circle surrounding the day, month and date subdials respectively located at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock. 

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 The subdials also play on transparency so as to reveal part of the movement. The hour, minute and counters hands, like the hour-markers inserted within the seconds scale, are crafted in gold and covered with brown PVD before being filled with a white luminescent material that turns blue in the dark. The red arrow-shaped hand indicating the week accentuates legibility in day light.

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To celebrate this collaboration with Cactus Jack, numerous design elements reference the brand’s graphics. The Audemars Piguet Design team has specially designed the typography of the calendar and week indications based on Travis Scott’s hand-drawn model. Even the hand of the day subdial takes on the shape of the brand’s logo. But, the most visible nod is the design of the moon phase at 6 o’clock. 

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The usual representation of Earth’s natural satellite has been replaced by Cactus Jack’s emblematic smiley face with its mouth sewn shut, whose luminescent coating glows blue in the dark. In contrast, the other calendar indications, with the exception of the week indication, are endowed with a luminescent material that turns green at night for a unique luminous effect.

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A new textured calfskin leather strap makes its debut for the occasion, while the pink gold folding clasp is engraved with the signatures of “Audemars Piguet” and “Travis Scott”. Lastly, the caseback is engraved with “Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar,” “Limited Edition of 200 Pieces” and “Utopia is a state of mind” in reference to Travis Scott’s latest album. This mention also appears printed on one of the strap’s mobile loops.

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"Watchmaking, to me, is the ultimate combo of engineering, fashion, tech and design—a harmony of precision, craftsmanship and perfect timing. I approached this collaboration similar to sampling or starting a beat, taking inspiration from classics while introducing innovation to push them into the future. I'm beyond amped about the results, a first ever for the iconic Royal Oak. For it to be my brother Francois' final project as CEO of AP makes it even more epic - we are sending him out with a Mega fucking epic mic drop … LETTTSSSSS GOOOOOO.”
Travis Scott
Artist and Founder of Cactus Jack

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AN OSCILLATING WEIGHT SIGNEDCACTUS JACK

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Limited Edition is powered by the selfwinding Calibre 5135. The movement automatically takes into account the number of days in the month and correctly displays the prevailing date even in leap years. Assuming the watch is kept fully wound, the date will not require manual correction until 2100, at which point it will need to be adjusted in order to stay in line with the Gregorian calendar.*

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The brown ceramic and sapphire caseback reveals the refined decorations adorning the movement including circular satin, satin brushing, sandblasting, sunray brushing and polished chamfers. The stamped openworked 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight is finished with satin brushing and polished chamfers. It is also engraved with the double “Audemars Piguet” and “Cactus Jack” signatures. The Cactus Jack logo, which appears in the centre of the oscillating weight, brings the final touch to this collaboration at the crossroads of diverse universes.

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* The Gregorian calendar omits three leap years every 400 years to remain in line with solar time. This is achieved by omitting February 29 in the century years which are divisible by 100, but not by 400. As a result, 2100 will not be a leap year and perpetual calendar mechanisms will have to be moved forward by one day.

Seek Beyond.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
 

Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus JackEdition

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 Ref. 26585CM.OO.D301VE.01

MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 5135
Total diameter 29 mm (12 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 4.5 mm
Number of jewels 38
Number of parts 374
Minimum guaranteed power reserve 40 hours
Frequency of balance wheel 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
FUNCTIONS
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and
minutes.
CASE
Case, bezel and screw-locked crown in brown ceramic, brown ceramic and glareproofed sapphire
caseback, glareproofed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 9.9 mm
Titanium and glareproofed sapphire caseback
Water-resistant to 20 m.
DIAL
Sapphire dial, subdials with pink gold frame and calendar indications with luminescent coating
glowing green in the dark  – number 31 in the counter at 3 o’clock turning blue at night – applied gold hour-markers and Royal Oak hands endowed with brown PVD and luminescent coating turning blue in the dark, brown inner bezel.
BRACELET
Brown calfskin leather strap with textured jeans effect, pink gold folding clasp engraved with the
double “Audemars Piguet” and “Travis Scott” signatures.

🔴 Price:  178, 000 CHF 💰

🔰 Limited edition of 200 pieces

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Press Release - 2023
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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Wednesday, December 27, 2023

Jaquet Droz – DRAGON Automaton Sapphire Lapis Lazuli - Unique piece


Jaquet DrozATELIERS D'ART DRAGON Automaton Sapphire Lapis Lazuli 45mm Edition - Unique piece 2023

Jaquet Droz takes personalization to new heights

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Two years ago, Jaquet Droz unveiled one of the most complex automatons ever produced for a wristwatch: the Dragon Automaton, featuring sixteen moving parts and nine animations. Now, Jaquet Droz has gone further still in terms of sophistication and difficulty by adding a sapphire crystal case and a lapis lazuli dial – a stunning feat for what is well and truly a unique piece.

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When the ‘John Howe’ Dragon Automaton was unveiled, some saw it as the last word on the subject: the piece seemed to mark the final destination of a long creative journey with the famed artistic designer for Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings and Hobbit trilogies. Now it’s clear that it was in fact a starting-point. Over the next two years, in the seclusion of its Ateliers d’Art in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Jaquet Droz strove to draw Art and Watchmaking still closer together, revisiting the canons of both to produce a new blend of creative disruption.

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The symbol of the Dragon goes back thousands of years, spanning every era, continent, and culture; Jaquet Droz has taken it up here, reproducing the sacred beast in grey gold. Each part of the dragon’s body has been handsculpted and then polished and individually engraved to detail scales, claws, and more.

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From the depths of the earth, Jaquet Droz has also wrested a dial made from a single piece of lapis lazuli. While this is not an especially rare stone, a piece this large, this uniform and devoid of cracks is – even more so in a sliver less than one millimetre thick that has been worked on without it being chipped or broken. The longstanding experience of Jaquet Droz Artisans in mineral arts thus offers the Dragon a backdrop of a rare intensity – a stage on which it performs for the best part of fifteen seconds.

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The audacity of this Dragon Automaton piece resides in the way Jaquet Droz has encapsulated this knowhow and the ancient symbols it depicts in a highly contemporary showcase made entirely of sapphire crystal – a glass box like no other, with a diameter of 45 millimetres. The sapphire crystal case is fully watertight, despite a total absence of screws or inserts. None are needed: Jaquet Droz has used a process of which it alone holds the secret to fit the case together to within the nearest micron.

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While the case design required extensive research, a whole new set of technical specifications were needed, too: the original Dragon Automaton was designed to be fully enclosed in a gold case. New tolerances, new finishes, and most importantly new anchor points for the movement had to be devised to suit its new sapphire crystal housing. Unprecedented components were invented and a large number of prototypes developed to ensure nothing would trouble the sheer transparency of the crystal.

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To highlight the contemporary nature of the piece, Jaquet Droz suggests mounting its lapis lazuli Dragon Automaton on a blue rubber strap matching the lapis lazuli on the dial. That is just a suggestion, though: ultimately, it will be up to the future owner of the unique piece to decide on its externals and engravings.

  “Some watches tell time, some tell a story.”

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  ATELIERS D'ART

Model:  DRAGON Automaton Sapphire Lapis Lazuli Edition

Reference : Sapphire 45  

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Reference       J0327370021


Movement Jaquet Droz 6150, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, flat bridges, 18-karat white gold oscillating weight with JH signature and black treatment. Automaton with animation of different parts of the dragon, push-button automaton triggering mechanism.  
Functions/Indications Off-centered hours and minutes
Mechanical automaton with 9 different animated elements of the dragon:
the crest moves, the mouth opens, the tongue comes out, the eye opens and closes, the dorsal section and tail undulate, the dragon's foot moves up and down towards the ball, the ball spins on itself.
The animation cycle lasts 10 to 15 seconds.
Jewelling 78 rubies for the automaton movement + 29 rubies for the hour and minute movement
Power reserve 38 hours
Frequency 21,600 v.p.h.(3 Hz) 
Case Sapphire case. Customization, identified as a unique piece by a hand-engraving on the case-back.
Diameter 43 mm Height 16.96 mm.
Water resistance To 3 bar (30 meters)
Dial Openworked dial in lapis-lazuli.
Hand-engraved dragon appliques in 18-karat white gold.
Hand-painted steel eye and tongue
Labradorite ball
Hands 18-karat white gold
Strap Blue rubber strap
Buckle 18-karat white gold folding clasp

🔰  Limited Edition  to Unique only 1 pieces

🔴 Price: CHF 490'000 (incl. taxes)💰


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Press Release - 2023
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MONTRES JAQUET DROZ SA
Allée du Tourbillon 2
CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2
· press@jaquet-droz.com
tel +41 32 924 28 72 · fax +41 (0)32 924 28 82
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