Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Panerai - PAM300 Mare Nostrum

Maybe it’s because I just bought a Panerai or maybe it’s because I recently visited the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret. This Weekly Watch Photo shows the Panerai PAM300 Mare Nostrum featuring a re-worked Minerva movement, originally produced in the Manufacture in Villeret.
Martin Wilmsen made the Weekly Watch Photo, which shows Panerai caliber OP XXV. This is the movement of the immense Panerai PAM300 Mare Nostrum, that measures 52 mm in diameter


























Panerai OP XXV is a hand-wound mechanical movement, measuring 12¾ lignes (or 28¾ mm). The base movement is developed and produced by Minerva, now-a-days owned by Montblanc, and is a vintage caliber 13-20. It has 22 jewels, a monometallic Glucydur balance that vibrates with 18,000 v/h. The movement features an Incabloc anti-shock device, a swan’s neck regulator and has 55 hours of power reserve.
Panerai dismantled, refinished, and modified the vintage Minerva movement to meet its technical and quality standards. The movement looks absolutely gorgeous and seems to be finished manually, because we can see the beveled sides of teh levers and bridges. The bridges are also finished with Côtes de Genève decorations.
The original Mare Nostrum had an Angelus movement, however since it had a closed case-back the movement was not visible. A re-issue of the Mare Nostrum, released as Special Edition PAM300, was long awaited by by Panerai collectors and it was widely praised when it was presented at the SIHH 2010.
The PAM300 is made to the same specifications of the original Mare Nostrum, meaning the case shape and size (52 mm in diameter) are the same as the WWII original and even the dial looks very similar. Although it is probably a very desirable collector’s item, we don’t think many people will wear the watch due to its size. We also don’t know how the depth rating of only 30 meters, compares to the original Mare Nostrum that was designed for deck officers in the Italian Navy during WW-II.
 A big thanx to Martin Wilmsen for letting us use his photos again! These photos where also used in a post on his blog called Wristwatch Photo.

Parmigiani - Tonda Transforma Chronograph


Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Transforma Chronograph

Parmigiani Fleurier presents a new watch, or is it a new pocket watch… or maybe a desk-clock? The new Tonda Transforma Chronograph is all of the above! 
The idea is very cool, during the day you’re wearing your wrist watch. Late at night you take it out of it’s holder and insert it into a holder made of macassar (ebony wood) and it becomes your table or nightstand clock. Fancy to wear a pocket watch on a chain? That’s possible as well with the

Parmigiani Tonda Transforma Chronograph.

Inside ticks the same movement as in the Kalpagraph and in the Pershing Chronograph, calibre PF 334, an in-house developed and produced chronograph caliber with automatic winding. Calibre PF 334 has a power reserve of 55 hours. Besides the chronograph, it also has a date function that is visible in a large aperture at the 6 o’clock position.


























The two chronograph function is visible on the raised graphite-colored hour and minute counters (30 minutes and 12 hours), which are positioned at the 9 and 6 o’clock position. The silvered dial features a Côtes de Genève decoration, that is applied in Parmigiani’s own workshops. On the outside of the dial, is a relatively wide ring with tachymeter scale.


The actual watch is fitted inside a steel holder, that can be opened by simply pressing the two lateral push-pieces on the two lower lugs. By pushing the push-pieces the jaw-like holder opens up and the actual watch can be taken out. That can be clipped into the rounded steel fob watch holder, that also provides access to the chronograph pushers as well as the crown (for winding and setting). The steel fob watch holder can be extended by a steel chain, so that the Transforma becomes one of the classics of the watchmaking world.

A third way of enjoying the Parmigiani Tonda Transforma is to place it in a table clock holder made from macassar wood. Once the timepiece is positioned, the rotating presentation case starts up the winding mechanism automatically. At the end of the process, the table clock places the Transforma in a vertical position to make the time readable. Three small compartments on the side have been designed to hold the fob watch and its chain, the warranty card or any other Transforma components.

The steel Transforma is equipped with an Hermès alligator leather strap with deployant buckle and is available for € 24,500 Euro (including tax/VAT).

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www.facebook.com - Parmigiani Fleurier
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www.Parmigiani.ch

Christiaan van der Klaauw - Aquarius Planetarium

Christiaan Van Der KlaauwCVDK Planetarium Aquarius Planetarium Edition  
 
Astronomy – time in its purest form – is the source of inspiration for the well-known Dutch watchmaker and member of the prestigious AHCI, Christiaan van der Klaauw. And  now it’s combined with an engraving of the well-known Dutch master-engraver Kees Engelbarts. 
Christiaan van der Klaauw is specialized solely in the design and manufacturing of astronomical watches and now presents the first piece in a series of twelve unique watches: The Aquarius Planetarium. It is based on Christiaan van der Klaauw’s famous Planetarium watch, featuring the world’s first and smallest mechanical planetarium, showing the cycles around the Sun of the planets Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn.
The solid gold dial shows one of the twelve constellations, in this case Aquarius, and is engraved by master-engraver Kees Engelbarts. The case is made of platinum and measures 40 mm in diameter, and is fitted with a sapphire crystal on both sides. Only one watch will be made of each zodiac sign. Every watch will be a ‘pièce unique’ and a collector’s item by its very nature. The other zodiac signs will only be made on special order, according to Christiaan van der Klaauw.
The Aquarius Planetarium is equipped with the world’s smallest heliocentric planetarium and displays the orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn around the Sun. Centrally positioned are the hour, minute and seconds hand and to the lower right corner is a month indicator.

At the Christiaan van der Klaauw website, they created a flash animation that shows exactly how the planets of the planetarium orbit around the sun. There you can also find more info about the entire collection and points of sale.
Some final words… personally I would suggest to use blued hands, which improve the ease of reading the time, however the plain hands match better in terms of color. So I guess that’s a matter of taste. All together the Christiaan van der Klaauw offers a lot: the world’s first and smallest planetarium in a wrist watch, a fair sized (40 mm) platinum case and a solid gold dial that is engraved by Kees Engelbarts. Two Dutch masters have joined their forces for this unique timepiece.

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Press release - 2012
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Address
Christiaan van der Klaauw b.v.

Businesspark Friesland-West 47
8447 SL Heerenveen
The Netherlands
T +31 (0) 513 - 624 906
 info@klaauw.com
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www.facebook.com - Christiaan.van.der.Klaauw
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www.klaauw.com

PROME - THEUS S80 PreOrders

The Pre-Order phase for the Prometheus S80, a collaborative dive watch made by PROMETHEUS Watch Co. and the Spanish watch forum Relojistas has begun. A list of available numbers is HERE. Pre-Orders will run until December, 15th 2011 with pricing as follows . . .

€399 for pre-orders in Portugal and Spain

€409 for pre-orders in rest of Europe

€340 for rest of World

Prices includes shipping and VAT (for orders in European Union). A 50% deposit is required for reservation. Watch is expected to be ready around June 2012. If you live outside European Union you may have to pay taxes at your country once watch arrives.

http://prometheuswatch.com 

IWC - Aquatimer CHRONO Edition Jacques-Yves COUSTEAU

 IWC - Aquatimer CHRONO Edition Jacques-Yves COUSTEAU

IWC have launched a new advertising campaign in which its timepieces are rooted into a series of evocative images that bring them and their stories to life. Among the series that centers around a cinema spot and Swiss TV commercial are these two Aquatimer Chrono ads for the Jacques-Yves COUSTEAU and GALAPAGOS Editions complete with tongue-in-cheek slogans . . .
 Engineered for men who get to the bottom of things . . .







 
 Plenty of people love diving. And no one loved it more than Jacques-Yves Cousteau. As demonstrated by the documentaries he made that brought the beauty of the underwater world to living rooms the world over. Always with one goal in mind: to preserve the oceans. In his name, and with his legacy even in its diving equipment, the Cousteau Society has stood for these goals from 1974 until this day.


 

And, since 2003, with IWC as a strong partner.
 The two organisations put their skill and potential to work jointly. Ultimately, they are bound by a great tradition and represent the same basic values, such as the principle of sustainability. A glance at the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Jacques-Yves Cousteau not only tells you the time. But also that it’s never too late to do something for the oceans.


























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www.iwc.com

Bulgari - Papillon Voyageur

Papillon means “butterfly” in French, and in this instance it refers to the unique and patented system for displaying the minutes on the new Papillon Voyager dual time zone travel watch from Bulgari. Find wallpaper images, launch date and pricing inside.

Bulgari’s new travel watch offers an elegant and artful display that takes a few seconds to grasp. First, the easy parts: the local hours are displayed digitally in “jump-hour” fashion in the large window at 12 o’clock. The second time zone is indicated by the pointed end of the blued, centrally-mounted, tear-drop-shaped hand, which points to a skeletonized, guilloché 24-hour subdial. The local time is set via the crown, while the 24 hour hand is adjusted forward and back with push-buttons located at 10 o’clock (+) and 2 o’clock (-).
Here’s where things get creative: as shown below, the minutes are indicated by a pair of small hands with points at both ends, each of which turns or spins on a central axis while also revolving as a pair around a central point. Think of two planets rotating or spinning as they circle the Sun, and you have the idea.


The 60 minutes in each hour are demarcated on a pair of concentric pink-gold semicircles, each with its own minute scale. The inner display marks off each individual minute, with numeric indications for 5, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55 minutes. The outer display has larger numerals indicating 0, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 minutes.
The two small hands mentioned above take turns indicating the minutes, as follows: for most of each hour, only one of the hands is visible, and it points to the current minutes. As the end of the hour draws near, the hands perform a “changing of the guard” maneuver. When the hand that is currently indicating the minutes reaches 55, the other hand “reports for duty” by making a quarter- turn, taking over the minutes display at the top of the hour or “00”. The other hand, now “off-duty”, also makes a quarter turn and goes into hiding. In the image below, the local time is 8:02. The minute hand on the right shows the time, while the minute hand on the left is rotating to its hidden position.



The entire display is presented on two levels. The aesthetic is both complex and harmonious: everything radiates outward from a central point. This sophisticated mechanism is housed in a signature Daniel Roth Collection double-ellipse case in 18k pink gold measuring a substantial 46 x 43 x 15.2 mm. Water resistance is 30 meters. The case is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal that is glare-proofed on both sides. An alligator strap and pink gold triple-blade folding clasp complete the package.
The Bulgari Papillon Voyageur is issued in a limited edition of 99 pieces and it is scheduled to be available after March 12. The suggested retail price is $52,100.
Additional technical information appears below the image.

BULGARI PAPILLON VOYAGEUR TECHNICAL DATA SHEET
Reference: DR1307, mechanical self-winding caliber
Diameter: 11 ½ lines
Display: Jumping hour, Papillon minutes indication, dual-time display by a central hand and +/- time-zone adjustment via dedicated push-button.
Jeweling: 26 jewels
Power reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28,800 vph
Winding: Automatic unidirectional
Balance: Annular with three spokes, in Glucydur
Index-assembly: Fine adjustment screw
Adjustment: 5 positions
Bridges: Adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Mainplate: Circular-grained
Oscillating weight: Bimetallic
Rims of the bridges: Chamfered and polished
Jewel surrounds: Diamond-polished, tone-on-tone

UTS - 4000 PROFESSIONAL FirstLook

The new UTS 4000 Professional may not be much of a departure from its sibling the UTS 3000M Dive Watch. The overall design of the watch hasn't really changed. It has the same basic case design that is fabricated from a solid block of German stainless steel by Nicolaus Spinner, the same bezel design and the same UTS trademark detachable lug design. It also incorporates all existing UTS technologies such as their proprietary bidirectional rotating bezel, which locks via a unique ceramic ball bearing system. It looks pretty much the same, too! Which is just fine with me, because, as the old saying goes 'if ain't broke, don't fix it'!







































However, there was nothing about a little tweaking in that adage, nor of beefing up case size or increasing water-resistance. The new UTS 4000 Professional takes every thing up a notch or two. The case diameter gets a 2mm increase from 43mm to 45mm, the crystal thickness is increased by 1mm to 6mm; this allows for an increase of 1000m of water-resistance from 3000m to 4000m. Even the size of dial markers appear to have been beefed up, which should allow for a brighter lume application. Basically it's the watch I have been waiting for UTS to build for several years, now and it's finally here. Stay tuned for more . . .


 http://www.utswatches.com/

Bell & Ross - BR03-90 Grande Date & Réserve de Marche – 42mm

The name says it all: the Bell & Ross BR03-90 Grande Date & Réserve de Marche offers a big date and power reserve in a 42mm polished and satin-finished case with 100 meter water resistance. Beneath the sapphire crystal, the galvanic matte black dial combined with photoluminescent index, numerals and hands offer excellent visibility. The movement is an automatic-winding Soprod 9090. Rubber and heavy canvas straps are included for the US retail price of $4,800.

JIUSKO - Deep Sea

Taiwanese factory brand, JIUSKO have a several divers in their line up. The Deep Sea was one that caught my eye; not only for its unique dual case design, but because it's basically the same watch as the DEEP BLUE Carbon Aqua.
 The JIUSKO Deep Sea has a 46mm x 15mm Stainless steel case with a screwdown crown and caseback, a sapphire crystal and a water-resistance of 200m. It houses an automatic movement. I'm not really sure which one, though; could well be the Seiko NH25, which the DEEP BLUE Carbon Aqua uses. The JIUSKO Deep Sea's carbon dial comes in three colors; orange, black, blue or green.

I quite like the case design, crown, lugs bezel etc. But I'm not really digging the dial or the Aquagraph bezel insert. And the JIUSKO company slogan 'Yes, I Can' is a little - how can I say - sad! Nevertheless the JIUSKO Deep Sea's price tag, which should be sub 300 dollars means it's going to be pretty good value for large diver with a sapphire crystal and mechanical movement. This is going to make someone a nice beater.

RADO - D-Star 200

RADO claim to be making waves with their new D-Star 200 diver, I'd have to agree. The automatic RADO divers, which are said to demonstrate a watertight style with reliable performance above and below sea level look pretty sensational. This is RADO's first new divers model in a number of years (not sure exactly how many, but it's been a while).
























And this is RADO's first contemporary divers model to use an external rotational divers bezel. The D-Star 200 is available as either a 3 hand auto or a chrono. Water-resistance is 200m, case size is 42mm x 46mm x 12.5mm. The black Chrono version is absolutely stunning. More to follow soon, until then a few words form RADO . . .
The D-Star 200 watches, diving-inspired design features flow into an eye-catching case, all sealed by water resistance up to 20 bar. As the latest additions to the Rado D-Star family, they cause a refreshing visual splash with their looks, and give these depth with a Swiss automatic movement, robust materials and uncompromising attention to detail. There are five chronograph versions and five classic three-hand models. These watches belong to the essential equipment of sporty individuals in all locations, regardless of whether they are wearing a dry suit or a business suit.
























 Navigating New Waters - From a performance perspective, the Rado D-Star 200 watches are ready to navigate new waters confidently. The main family descends directly from the Rado DiaStar, the world’s first scratch-resistant watch, launched in 1962. Elegantly punctuating this heritage with modern touches, the three-hand executions integrate a Cyclops cut magnifying lens in the gently domed sapphire crystal, over the date display.
 Meticulous design detail adds further buoyancy to wearability and practicality, such as bracelets integrating high-tech ceramic links or sturdy rubber straps. This finds further expression in metallised, steel- and gold-coloured applied indexes, a uni-directional bezel inserted with high-tech ceramic and a moving anchor symbol, trademark of the Swiss-made automatic movement inside.








































Style landmarks - Each of the ten Rado D-Star 200 watches has its own distinctive identity. Immersing itself in the nautical theme is a model with a glimmering ocean-blue dial and matching bezel. Brushed and polished stainless steel further mirrors the maritime mood. Moving closer to dry land is a piece combining sleek black elements with the shining stainless steel structure, ideal equipment for sporty individuals. 

And captaining a classical look is a version with an elegant grey dial, black bezel and silver-coloured stainless steel bracelet. Wearers will never be at sea when it comes to choosing the appropriate watch to time their active, fast-paced lifestyles.























 
 Technical Characteristics

RADO - D-Star 200 Automatic CHRONO

MOVEMENT 13 ¼ ETA A05.H31, automatic chronograph, 27 jewels, 5 hands, date at 6 o‘clock, 54 hours power reserve, Small seconds, 30-minute and 60-second counters, Add and Split functions, black oscillating mass, Movement exclusive to Rado

DIAL Black, sunbrushed with 9 steel colour applied indexes with white luminous Anchor moving symbol, White printed Rado and Automatic logos

CASE Polished steel with steel turning bezel with black high-tech ceramic insert and steel-colour metallised numerals, Steel middle part, Pressed on steel back with sapphire crystal, Curved sapphire crystal with integrated magnifier, Water resistant to 20 bar (200m)

HANDS Steel-colour with printed black line, white luminous, Steel-colour second and counter hands

BRACELET 3 row solid steel with black high tech ceramic middle links, Titanium 3-fold buckle

DIMENSIONS 44.0 x 48.2 x 15.7 (WxLxH in mm)


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 www.rado.com

OMEGA - Seamaster DIVER Co-Axial 300M













 OMEGA - Seamaster DIVER Co-Axial 300M


The Seamaster DIVER 300M has been one of OMEGA’s most popular dive watches watches since it was first launched in 1957. Some 55 years on and this iconic diver been updated, upgraded and brought into the 21st Century, where it should gain as much of a following as it has in the past.
 







































Four updated Seamaster 300M models are now available; all of them are equipped with OMEGA’s latest generation of revolutionary Co-Axial caliber 2500 mechanical movements. There are two 41mm versions of the Seamaster Diver 300m, and two with smaller 36.25mm stainless steel cases. Each of them are available with a choice of either blue or a black ceramic bezel inserts that have been designed to perfectly match their new glossy lacquered dials. An orange version wouldn’t have gone amiss, though. Their screwdown casebacks have been stamped with a large ‘Seamaster’ seahorse emblem.
The Seamaster Diver 300M is equipped with a number of professional divers’ features, such as; a manual-release helium escape valve, a unidirectional rotational divers bezel and tough scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Polished, facetted skeleton rhodium-plated hour and minute hands have been applied with SuperLumiNova as has the central second hand. The SuperLumiNova on the hour and second hands now fashionably emits a blue light as do the indexes. While the minute hand and 12 o’clock bezel marker have been applied with green SuperLumiNova for maximum efficiency when keeping track of dive-time.
 ach of the new models are presented on a brushed and polished OMEGA patented screw-and-pin stainless steel bracelet with a divers' deployment clasp. And as its name suggests, the OMEGA Seamaster Diver Co-Axial 300m has a water-resistance to a depth of 30 bar / 300 meters / 1000 feet.








































he OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M was the first dive watch that I considered almost 15yrs ago, when looking to buy my first really decent diver. It had been used by the British special forces, specifically the SBS and had been worn by Bond, and that was good enough for me. In the end, though I actually opted for a BREITLING to pacify my then obsession with extreme water-resistance. However my point is, as little as I knew about dive watches in those days, which wasn’t much at all, I did know that if I wanted a truly great Swiss diver other than a Submariner that there was only one other watch really worth considering, and that was the Seamaster 300M.


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 www.Omegawatches.com
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Omega - Planet Ocean Collection and Announces Film Project in Capri

Omega chose the Italian island of Capri to debut its upgraded Planet Ocean collection. The four new watches are equipped with unidirectional rotating bezels, helium escape valves and water resistance to 60 bar / 600 meters / 2000 feet. The in-house co-axial movements with silicon balance springs are backed by a four-year warranty. Find details and stunning wallpaper images inside.

UPDATED: Pricing and launch dates added.
Each of the images below may be enlarged significantly with a click.
The Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.50mm Titanium Liquidmetal Chronograph
The star of the new Planet Ocean Collection is distinguished by its unusual mix of new materials. Its 45.50mm case is made of grade 5 titanium, meaning that this lightweight element has been alloyed with small amounts of aluminum and vanadium and is particularly hard. It can also be polished to a brighter luster than other grades of titanium. It has a striking blue ceramic bezel whose scaling and numbers are made of zirconium-based alloy called Liquidmetal. Omega says the hardness of the materials means that these two innovative materials will maintain their appearance indefinitely.
A lacquered blue dial compliments the blue ceramic bezel. This watch is presented on a blue integrated rubber strap, and it is also available with a titanium bracelet.
The Titanium Liquidmetal Chronograph is driven by the co-axial caliber 9300 equipped with an Si 14 silicon balance spring. The watch is offered with a four-year warranty.
The Titanium Liquidmetal Chronograph will launch in October, and the suggested retail price on the titanium bracelet will be $10,500.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.50mm Chronograph, Caliber 9300
The Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.50mm Chronograph is also equipped with the Omega co-axial caliber 9300, pictured above. This column-wheel chronograph has 12-hour and 60-minute counter hands placed on the same subdial at 3 o’clock. This familiar arrangement of the hands, which recalls the hour and minute hands on the main dial, enables intuitive reading of the chronograph. It also has a central chronograph seconds hand and a small seconds hand on the sub-dial at 9 o’clock.
The two chronograph control pushers function independently; accordingly, there is no risk to the chronograph mechanism as a result of inadvertent manipulation. Like Omega’s other in-house co-axial movements, the caliber 9300 features a decorative pattern known as “Côtes de Genève in Arabesque“.
The hour hand can be reset without stopping the watch, so resetting while traveling does not affect accurate timekeeping. The brushed screw-in caseback has a sapphire crystal allowing a view of the original movement beneath.
The case is stainless steel case with a choice of bezels either in matte orange aluminum or matte black ceramic with matte black dials. There is also a version offered with a stainless steel bezel paved with 42 diamonds totaling 2.69 carats.
The watch is presented with a brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet with Omega’s patented screw-and-pin system. There is also a choice of an integrated strap either in black leather or in black or orange rubber.
The new Planet Ocean chronograph, like all of the watches in the new family, is equipped with a combination of a co-axial movement and an Si 14 silicon balance spring and comes with a four-year warranty.
The Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.50mm Chronograph, caliber 9300 will launch in June, priced at $7,500 with orange strap with bezel, and at $7,700 with black strap and bezel.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean 42.00mm, Caliber 8500
The Seamaster Planet Ocean 42.00mm divers’ watch is also available with a stainless steel case and a number of configurations. It is powered by the Omega co-axial caliber 8500 and is equipped with the Si 14 silicon balance spring. This model is also offered with a full four-year warranty.
The most luxurious version has a diamond-paved bezel set with 42 diamonds weighing a total of 2.14 carats and a white lacquered dial.
The stainless steel Planet Ocean 42.00 mm is also available with a broad selection of bezels including matte orange aluminum or black or white ceramic.
The selection of straps includes a choice of black or white integrated leather or black, white or orange rubber. The 42.00mm Planet Ocean watches in stainless steel are also available with bracelets in the same metal.
The Seamaster Planet Ocean 42.00mm launches in June. The price on with an orange bezel and strap is $5,800, and other bezel and strap colors are $6,000.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean 37.50mm, Caliber 8520
This year Omega launches the first Planet Ocean models with 37.50mm cases, ideally suited for women who want the technologically advanced mechanical movement and diving features offered by the collection but prefer to wear smaller watches. There are 37.50mm Planet Ocean wristwatches in stainless steel with either black or white ceramic bezels that sparkle with 42 diamonds with a weight of 1.55 carats.
These watches are powered by the co-axial caliber 8520 equipped with the Si 14 silicon balance spring.
The selection of straps includes a choice of black or white integrated leather. The 37.50 mm Planet Ocean watches in stainless steel are also available with bracelets in the same metal.

Montblanc - TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech




















 Montblanc - TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech Limited Edition

SIHH 2012

On Monday, January 16th 2012 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, the new Montblanc TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech was unveiled to the public and the international press.

Few brands can rival Montblanc’s skill in imbuing their products with unmistakable and timeless iconography. The Rieussec chronograph collection has achieved unmistakable status and the TimeWalker line has represented the modern personification of Montblanc’s DNA for several years. This collection won a standing ovation last year with the TwinFly chronograph and Montblanc’s own movement. Now it outdoes itself again with the debut of the GreyTech. The appeal of the TimeWalker collection derives from sleek and distinctive styling that’s strongly inspired by modern, open, glass-and-steel architecture. Generously proportioned, tidily comprehensible dials beneath sapphire crystals that are antireflective on both their surfaces, narrow bezels and filigreed, skeletonized horns vividly prove that all superfluity has been eliminated.

Double Flyback in Shades of Grey
Montblanc received great honor and recognition after launching the TimeWalker TwinFly in 2011, a manufacturechronograph that gave new beauty to a function which had once been very popular, but had later nearly vanished from the horological landscape: a measuring instrument for brief intervals with both an elapsed-seconds hand and a sixty-minute counter from the center of its dial. Manufactured in steel and in a limited titanium edition, this wristwatch experienced such gigantic success that Montblanc decided to present a second limited-edition model in an exclusively styled version one year later: the Montblanc TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech, of which only 888 specimens will be manufactured. This watch perfectly combines technical refinement, innovative materials and discriminating design. Television screens, billboards, shop windows and magazines around the world are so garishly colorful that we cannot but feel a sense of nostalgia for the quieter monochrome era, when black-and-white films and photographs radiated so much sensuality and style, although they worked solely with shades of grey. The popularity that can be achieved by the absence of color is ably shown by noble automobile brands, where the chromatic spectrum is primarily reduced to a narrow range from midnight black to silvery grey. The same is true in the world of interior design, where classical furnishings made of metal, glass and black leather have enjoyed success for many decades. These products offer welcome relaxation for eyes that have grown weary from a surfeit of natural and artificial colors. The new GreyTech approach from Montblanc follows suit. The Montblanc TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech makes a very distinguished yet at the same time modern and technical impression. Satinized and pearl-blasted finishing gives the solid titanium case a monochrome and simultaneously contrast-rich aspect. Various shades of grey distinguish its large dial, where connoisseurs will find seven time indicators, generously proportioned apertures for the grey date disc, a pierced and anthracite-grey hour-hand and minute-hand, and large Arabic numerals. Grey elegance continues on the back, where a pane of sapphire crystal invites aficionados to admire the movement with its rhodium-plated dark grey chassis parts, which create a fascinating contrast with the golden wheels, the blued screws and the red ruby bearings. This perfect synthesis of technically oriented design, highly robust and extra-light case material, and elaborate micromechanics convinces watch lovers that understatedly elegant aesthetics and exclusive functionality have lost none of their popularity, even in the era of the smartphone.

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Chronograph Caliber MB LL100  – A Montblanc Movement with ManufactureQuality

Likewise developed exclusively by Montblanc, self-winding chronograph Caliber MB LL100 is assembled, finely adjusted and encased under the brand’s aegis and in its spacious ateliers in Le Locle. This manufacturemovement from Montblanc is also a chronograph, which is entirely logical because the world’s leading name in exclusive writing implements likewise strives toward a comparably foremost position among “time writers,” i.e. chronographs. Considering the speed and dynamism of developments at Montblanc, this ambitious goal doesn’t seem quite so unattainably audacious. The chronograph Caliber MB LL100 has all the characteristics of highly evolved horological artistry: the chronograph’s functions are controlled via a column-wheel; a modern and extremely low-wear disc-coupling engages to transfer energy from the fourth-wheel to the chronograph-wheel; and a newly calculated profile for the gear teeth significantly improves the energy efficiency. But the most eye-catching exclusivity is the chronograph function: a long elapsed-seconds hand and a somewhat shorter counter for sixty elapsed minutes are both centrally axial. When the flyback function is triggered, these two indicators race back to their starting position and instantly restart measuring another elapsing interval, whence the neologism “TwinFly” in the model’s name. The number of elapsed seconds is shown along the outermost periphery on the flange of the dial, whereas the elapsed minute counter has a large and therefore readily legible sixty-minute scale in the centre of the dial. Other functions include a date window at “9 o’clock” and a 24-hour subdial for the second time zone at “12 o’clock.” A special feature of Caliber MB LL100 is its double barrel, which gives this movement a power reserve of approximately 72 hours’ duration: an ample reservoir of power is better able to compensate for amplitude fluctuations that occur when the chronograph function is switched on or off, and it also improves the stability of the rate in all operating modes.

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GreyTech Expresses Technical Elegance
The matte grey titanium case is distinguished by the unmistakable “handwriting” of Montblanc’s TimeWalker family of watch models. The case’s liberal diameter of 43 mm and the narrowness of the bezel result in a very large dial: this spaciousness visibly enhances the legibility and the readily comprehensible arrangement of the individual displays. The horns, which are skeletonized in the typical TimeWalker style, reliably hold an anthracite-grey alligator-skin wristband with large quadratic reptilian scales and a tone-in-tone grey stitching. A pronged buckle made of bead-blasted titanium keeps the strap securely closed around its wearer’s wrist. In accord with the understated styling in shades of grey, the case is matte finished all around, the middle part of the case is vertically brushed, and both the bezel and the edge of the case’s back are bead blasted. The result is a discreetly technical look that instantly identifies this wristwatch as a functional time-measuring instrument. The excitement that this high-tech aspect can generate becomes evident at the very latest when one peers through the sapphire crystal in the back and through the slightly cambered sapphire crystal above the dial. The face has large piercings and a very lively appearance thanks to various shades of grey. Circular apertures inside the hour-circle allow one’s gaze to penetrate to a somewhat darker date disc with raised anthracite-grey numerals; the current date is surrounded by a white frame at “9 o’clock.” Six anthracite-grey numerals in raised relief mark the hour-circle; white scales are printed for the second time zone at “12 o’clock” and for the small seconds at “6 o’clock. Special mention is earned by the second time zone with its anthracite skeletonized hand: a shiny anthracite-colored sunburst in raised relief adorns this display’s 24-hour dial for the daytime hours from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., while the nighttime hours are portrayed by a net of arcs which symbolize the paths of the stars across the firmament. The smallest details are of the utmost importance on a wristwatch: this is evident here in the large hands for the time display and the chronograph’s function. The anthracite-grey hour-hand and minute-hand are coated with luminous material, which combines with noctilucent indices to assure good legibility in the dark. These hands sweep across the scale of the sixty-elapsed-minutes counter, so they’re slit lengthwise to allow the wearer to see through them and read the counter’s scale. The chronograph’s well-balanced elapsed-seconds hand is dark anthracite in color with a light grey tip; the elapsed-minutes counter is light grey with a dark anthracite tip. Another attractive aspect of the GreyTech comes into view through the sapphire window in the back: the movement with its black rhodium-plated components. A layer of dark grey rhodium has been applied to the plate bridge, which is traditionally decorated with Geneva waves. The same coating embellishes the generously skeletonized winding-rotor with its extra-heavy oscillating weight and pierced Montblanc emblem. As one would expect an outstanding chronograph, the column-wheel that controls the chronograph’s start, stop and flyback commands is likewise visible. This firework of horological technology is certain to spark enthusiasm.
The Montblanc TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech will be manufactured in a limited edition of 888 specimens and will be available starting in autumn of 2012.

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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS


Montblanc TimeWalker TwinFly  Chronograph GreyTech

Movement  
Manufacture Calibre MB LL100
Type of movement Mechanical movement with automatic winding, chronograph with flyback function, column wheel control, vertical disc clutch, twin barrels
No. of jewels 36
Power reserve Ca. 72 hours
Balance Screwed balance, Ø 9.7 mm; moment of inertia: 12 mg/cm2
Hairspring Flat
Frequency 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Wheels Special toothing for more efficient power transmission
Indications Hours and minutes in the centre; Small seconds at “6 o’clock”; 24-hour counter for second time zone at “12 o’clock”; Date window-display at “9 o’clock”
Complications Flyback chronograph with central minute and second hands; 24 hour counter for second time zone at 12 o`clock
Features
Case Satin-finished and bead-blasted titanium case
Dimensions Ø = 43 mm, height: 15,3 mm
Water resistant To 3 bar (30 m)
Sapphire crystal Domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
Case back Bead-blasted titanium case back with sapphire crystal
Dial Open worked, grey dial with rhodium-plated numerals and black pierced luminous hands
Bracelet/Strap Anthracite alligator-leather strap with tone-in-tone stitching and bead-blasted titanium pin buckle
Limitation 888 pieces

Ident 107338

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Jaeger-LeCoultre - Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph

Greetings from Geneva! SIHH 2012 sees the introduction of a new water-resistant watch inspired by the Memovox Deep Sea: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph featuring a 40.5 mm case size similar to that of the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea, which was a hit at SIHH 2011.
A fixed bezel surrounds a classic black dial, protected by a Plexiglas crystal. The hour-markers as well as the central hour and minute hands are covered by a Superluminova with a warm orange-tinted shade reminiscent of the luminescent coating on the 1959 Memovox Deep Sea. The time intervals measured by the two-button chronograph are indicated by two counters for the hours and minutes, positioned at 9 and 3 o’clock, as well as by the central seconds hand. The back of the stainless steel case also bears the same engraved motif as the historical model, depicting a frogman surrounded by bubbles. Finally, the embossed black calfskin leather strap looks exactly like the one fitted on the original.
This watch driven by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 751G which incorporates the latest developments stemming from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s research, including the large variable-inertia balance and the ceramic ball bearings that ensure lubricant-free long-term operation. Water-resistance is 100 meters.
Technical specifications appear below the images, the last of which may be substantially enlarged with a click.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph: technical characteristics
Movement
• mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 751G
crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 37 jewels
• 5.72 mm thick
• 235 parts
• 65-hour power reserve
Functions
• hour, minute, chronograph seconds, minutes, hours
• chronograph with hour and minute counters and central sweep seconds hand
Dial
• matt black
• hands and hour-markers featuring “Tropic” colored superluminova
Case
• steel
• 40.5 mm in diameter
• plexiglass watch glass
• water resistance : 10 bar
Strap
• black leather with steel pin buckle



























CORUM - Admiral’s Cup Seafender 46 Chrono Dive

















CORUM - Admiral's Cup Seafender 46 Chrono Dive

The Admiral's Cup DEEP HULL 48 was for me one of the most significant luxury dive watch releases of 2010. Not only had Corum entered into new and uncharted territory with the DEEP HULL 48, pitting themselves against the likes of Panerai, who already had a long tradition of producing ‘serious’ dive watches. But the DEEP HULL 48 heralded a new chapter in what would hopefully be CORUM's continued production of high-end professional divers watches. They had up until 2010 only been responsible for the CORUM Bubble Diver.

  
It would appear that CORUM are now in the business of producing professional dive watches. 2011 sees the release of the Admiral’s Cup SEAFENDER 46 DIVE & CHRONO DIVE, which will both be unveiled in Basel next week. The SEAFENDER with its 46mm case will no doubt find favor with those, who found the DEEP HULL 48 a little too large or for those, who might have considered it a little outside their budget. I’m not sure of actually pricing, but would imagine that the SEAFENDER 46 DIVE will be a tad more affordable than its predecessor.

From CORUM The extreme range of the Corum sports collection welcomes two new models: the Admiral’s Cup Seafender 46 Dive and the Admiral’s Cup Seafender Chrono Dive. Water-resistant to 300 meters, these sporty yet elegant watches are equally at ease worn over a diving suit as beneath a shirt cuff.



































Corum clearly feels very much at home at great depths. Launched in 2010 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the iconic Admiral’s Cup collection, the Deep Hull 48 model marked a significant watershed in brand history by heralding the “extreme” range. Designed for extreme environments, this diver’s watch, the first of its kind within the Admiral’s Cup collection, is now joined by two new 46mm diameter variations that are both water-resistant to 300 meters: the Admiral’s Cup Seafender 46 Dive and the Admiral’s Cup Seafender 46 Chrono Dive.


Slightly smaller than the previously introduced version, they have been specifically designed and developed to delight divers and devotees of distinctive and sophisticated watches. These sporty and sturdy models feature powerful, taut lines that make them ideal companions for relaxing moments as well as exciting adventures.
Admiral’s Cup Seafender 46 Dive - With the new Admiral’s Cup Seafender 46 Dive, Corum achieves the perfect combination of sportsmanship and aesthetics. Reflecting the distinctive codes that have earned the collection its peerless success – a twelve-sided case and an inner bezel ring featuring 12 nautical pennants – it features a pleasing size at 46 mm in diameter and 16.05 mm thick. The subtle nature of its dial in shades of black and gray, as well as the purity of its lines carved in grade 5 titanium – the hardest material to machine make this Admiral’s Cup the most civilized of extreme watches.


 
































While this variation will be perfectly at home under the sleeve of a sports shirt, it is nonetheless a genuine diving instrument that meets the corresponding official standards. These include a screw-in caseback engraved in its center with the inscription “DIVE 300 METERS”, as well as the figure of a diver. The twelve convex sides of the case in grade 5 titanium guarantee absolute water resistance to a depth of 300 meters. The 120-toothed unidirectional bezel enables easy visualization of dive times, while the luminescent hands and hour-markers make this watch an authentic instrument panel that is perfectly readable in all situations.







































This Admiral’s Cup model with its unmistakably strong character is equipped with an automatic CO947 movement chronometer-certified by the COSC. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), has a 42-hour power reserve, and drives the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock as well as a day/date display appearing through two small windows at 3 o’clock. To ensure enhanced comfort and perfect sturdiness, it is fitted with a black vulcanized rubber strap secured by a titanium pin buckle.

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Rue du Pet i t -Château 1
Case postale 374 - CH-2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
Tél. +41 (0) 32 967 06 70 
Fax +41 (0) 32 967 06 00  press@corum.ch
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Omega - Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT

Omega introduces the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT. The Co-Axial calibre 8605/8615 is the first of Omega’s proprietary movements to be equipped with a GMT complication, meaning that along with the central hour, minute and seconds hands, there is a GMT hand which completes one rotation every 24 hours, making it possible to keep track of the time in two time zones. Find a wallpaper image inside.
The 43 mm case is available in a choice of metals: 18k red gold or stainless steel or, in a bicolor version in 18k red gold and stainless steel. The sapphire crystal on the screw-in caseback allows a clear view of the Co-Axial movement inside. The watch is available with either a bracelet in the same metal as the watch case or with a black, brown or blue leather strap.
The dial is distinguished by the teak pattern associated with the Aqua Terra collection. The vertical lines are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats. The applied 18k gold brushed and polished indexes are coated with white Super-LumiNova and the faceted hands are crafted from 18k white or red gold. Like the indexes, they are coated with white Super-LumiNova which allows ease of reading in all light conditions. The GMT hand’s red arrow makes it easy to distinguish the two time zones. The GMT hand can also be used for compass orientation: when the watch is held parallel to the ground with its hour hand pointed in the direction of the sun, the GMT hand, when it is adjusted to the same time on the 24-hour GMT display, will indicate north in the northern hemisphere.

































At the heart of the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT is the Co-Axial caliber 8605/8615. It is part of the family of movements Omega introduced in 2007 built around the first practical new watch escapement to be developed in some 250 years. The Co-Axial escapement in the Omega calibers is used in conjunction with a free sprung-balance and its function differs considerably from that of a conventional lever escapement with index. The watch’s rate can be adjusted by modifying the moment of inertia of the balance by means of two gold regulating micro screws embedded in the circular balance. This design avoids the disturbing effects of contact between the balance-spring and the index pins and therefore ensures that the stability of rate offered by the Co-Axial escapement is maintained over long periods of use. The result is reduced friction which means that there is almost no need for lubrication; the Co-Axial calibers have long service intervals and the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT, which is also equipped with a silicon balance spring, is delivered with a four-year warranty.
The image below may be enlarged with a click.

Fortis - Marinemaster Vintage Limited Edition

This year Fortis marks its 100th anniversary and to celebrate, the brand is issuing a limited re-edition of the Marinemaster. First distributed at the beginning of the 1940s, that model became one of the brand’s most popular watches. Over the years, the look of the watch was updated, and the 100th anniversary re-edition is inspired by the model produced during the 1970s.
The Marinemaster Vintage LE is a 40mm automatic chronograph in polished stainless steel on leather strap, available with orange or blue dial highlights. A total of 500 of each version will be produced.
The image below may be enlarged with a click.