Friday, April 9, 2021

GENUS – GNS DRAGON White Gold

 GENUS GNS 1 GNS DRAGON White Gold 2021

 The flight of the golden serpent

2021: GENUS presents a watch with a spectacular centerpiece:
a guardian dragon in motion that indicates the passage of time.

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 Haute Horlogerie, mechanical engineering, goldsmithing, sculpture and engraving:
GENUS brings these crafts and talents together to create a fascinating equilibrium
between technical constraints and aesthetic requisites

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 The result is unprecedented. A graceful, powerful, expressive dragon crafted from 18K gold,

like the main components of the movement, revealing not only a full range of horological artistry,
but also unlocking vast creative possibilities.
 

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GENUS Dragon opens a new chapter in the unfolding story of GENUS with the embodiment of the formidable symbolism that surrounds the myth, across worlds, ages and cultures. 

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After having reimagined the way to tell time, an endeavor rewarded with the Mechanical Exception Prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2019 and, in 2020, presenting the GNS1.2 TD carved from a block of Damascene titanium, itself a prowess in metalsmithing, the brand continues to explore the infinite possibilities of its original approach to orbital mechanics for illustrating time.

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In 2021, the complex and fluid movement that is the hallmark of GENUS watches breathes life into the most powerful and evocative of all mythical beings – the dragon. GENUS DRAGON makes a creature of legend come alive, fusing precious sculpture and mechanical architecture with engineering, watchmaking, goldsmithing and engraving artisanship of the highest order. The head of the dragon, too, plays a role in this most kinetic and intriguing expression of timekeeping revisited.

Hic sunt dracones

Here be dragons.” On ancient maps these words indicated uncharted regions where unknown and unimaginable dangers lurked, where monsters were thought to exist. Sea dragons in the Middle Ages became flying dragons in more modern times, as popularized by recent film iconography. From the Gate of Ishtar in Babylon to the bow of Viking drakkar boats, from Chinese mythology to Germanic epic poems, the dragon is omnipresent in Eurasian cultures.

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Mythical, powerful, projecting fear and awe as a menacing creature blowing fire and flame but also symbolizing fierce protection, wisdom and eternity – the dragon is an avatar of entwined creative and destructive power. It is also a guardian symbol. Since time immemorial, no other being truly captures the imagination like the dragon.

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In order to pay tribute to the dragon and its symbolic power, GENUS decided to go beyond a simple representation, painted or passive, and made it an active presence in its watchmaking creation, thereby honoring the dragon’s role as the ultimate guardian of the ultimate treasure.

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Here, the genera, i.e., the mobile elements GENUS invented for its tens-of-minutes display, become the dragon's body. Eleven sculpted, decorated, hand-engraved rose gold segments follow the celestial trajectory of the analemma, the singular signature of GENUS.

1 – An inspired aesthetic

Of the extensive dragon iconography across the ages, GENUS has retained one graphic interpretation of the creature that reaches far beyond the imaginary realms of Chinese mythology: This dragon is long and lithe, wingless though endowed with flight, and characterized by a bearded mouth overhung with whisker-like tendrils.

The choice of expression

Vast is the spectrum of visualization for the symbolism surrounding the dragon. Here, GENUS struck a balance between strength and wisdom – an expression of benevolence but scrutinizing, poised and conscious of its power, yet unthreatening.

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A creature of the earth in ancient oriental civilizations, of fire in European lore, the Asian dragon is linked to the element water. The way in which the genera fluidly trace the passage of time makes a natural connection with the mythical creature. Hence, the self-evident decision to bring this flowing transition to life in a horological context with GENUS DRAGON.

Animal realism

Conscious of the artistic and engineering challenges, GENUS enhanced the dragon’s being by making its backbone stand out, like a wave in motion, to accentuate proportions and reliefs, with a lithe, long and narrow body, a delicate yet commanding head, legs and paws that convey sinewy strength. 

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A unique kinetic sculpture that GENUS calls onto the stage, and inaugurates with an elegantly shaped sapphire crystal that becomes an observation dome for this work of art. For it is not only a matter of seeing, but of being able to observe a dragon in its environment, watch it move, and enjoy its complex choreography.

2 - The magic of age-old artisanship

Of all the execution techniques available to the watchmaking world, GENUS opted for the most demanding, the most meaningful and the most precious. The dragon’s body is a fluid sculpture of 18K rose gold, composed of eleven segments – the genera – that move freely, one behind the other, and form the whole creature.

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Raising the artistic and artisanal dimension, the 18K rose gold elements are sculpted and delicately engraved by hand. This culture of the exceptional is reflected in the attention to detail given to every aspect of the dragon. The body, scales, paws, claws, the head with its mischievous little horns, the beard, tongue and expressive eyes – they all shine with the high level of finish associated with Haute Horlogerie. There is not a single element which has not been crafted with the most meticulous care.

The complexity of the myth

Initially, Sébastien Billières believed this new endeavor would, at the most, require 3-4 months of technical development. In the end, modelling this mythical and minute creature took more than a year of seemingly insurmountable design and engineering challenges.

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Indeed, this is not a static sculpture, carved as one piece. This dragon is in constant motion, the result of an articulation between the calibre and the free-moving segments on one hand, and between the segments themselves on the other. Moreover, there is nothing simple about the trajectory it follows. It is neither linear nor circular, and it crosses over itself. At its core, the GENUS watchmaking concept is based on a movement along an analemma, or figure eight, the sign of infinity.

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The ‘return trips,’ as it were, around the foci, the rotations to the right and left, tracing the curves and diagonals – the behavior of each segment of the dragon’s body has been studied along this path, where the speed of progression fluctuates depending on the position along the trajectory. Each one of the eleven segments – of a particular shape, height and weight – is unique. This in turn enhances the impression of unencumbered movement and realistically evokes a serpent-like undulation that is best observed along the dragon's spine.

A quintessential interaction

The magic is in the mix of crafts and artisanship: watchmaker and jeweler-engraver, both masters of their art, came together to create the most realistic texture for the inside of the mouth and the tongue, down to the smallest detail. To achieve this, the delicate head was sculpted from 6 separate blocks of gold. The gold thread tendrils that seem to float in the wind reveal the artist who inhabits the watchmaker. Absolute and uncompromising attention to detail pervaded each stage of the creation of this kinetic sculpture, where each element acquired a precise volume and dimension to allow the dragon to glide and cross over from one orbit to the other.

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The dragon, a miniature expression of the mechanical art as is brought to life in antique automatons, is the fruit of a unique collaboration – a meeting of minds – between engineer, watchmaker, goldsmith, sculptor and engraver. Together they found a balance between mechanical constraints and aesthetic requisites. Thus, a whole range of artisan’s techniques were applied at multiple levels, from engraving to gold soldering to beading, to name only three.

The movement had to be assembled, disassembled, and reassembled three times to achieve the dragon’s natural, and fascinating, litheness and expressiveness. Consequently, just as many reworkings of the surfaces and textures were required.

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Such a spectacular show of artisanship and engineering demanded a worthy stage. Whilst the case and movement of GENUS DRAGON are in white gold, the specifications of the sapphire crystal have been adapted to the requirements of this timepiece. Raised slightly higher and being more curved, it has become a display dome for the dragon in all its magnificence. A showcase for the spectator's gaze, elegantly proportioned for the wrist. The overall impression of space, volume, and lightness in every sense of the word is in keeping with the other GENUS models, as the transparency of the view supersedes any concerns of height or thickness.

3 - Calibre Transfiguration


At the heart of GENUS DRAGON, there is the brain of the GNS1. Here, however, the tens-of-minutes are not indicated by a genus, but by the dragon’s head. The magical appearance of the dragon between crystal and movement is based on the same technical fundamentals as previous GENUS creations. Here, Calibre 160W-1.2 is the bedrock of GENUS' watchmaking approach. 

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By taking on the form of the dragon, the genera – the free-moving elements that transition from one orbit to the other on the tens-of-minutes display – demonstrate the flexibility and versatility of this singular interpretation of horological principles.

The architecture of Calibre 160W-1.2 reveals the nature, the driving force of GENUS.


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The principles of freedom, flexibility and openness to further evolution that are at the core of GENUS stem from a dichotomy. Indeed, there are two parts, or modules, to the watch. The first, which can be described as the foundation, groups the essential functions, including a single barrel. It ensures a 50-hour power reserve, which is considerable in view of the complexity of the calibre and the masses in movement. The second module, overlaying the first, manages the display complication of hours, tens-of-minutes and precise minutes.

A heart of white gold

Entirely designed, developed and assembled in the Geneva workshop, GENUS DRAGON is the first and only watch in the world in which an articulated dragon expresses the passage of time. Here, the system indicating the tens-of-minutes takes the form of the mythical dragon creature and reveals the imaginative versatility of this unique calibre.

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The plate and bridges are made of 18K gold sourced from an environmentally and socially responsible supply chain certified by the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council). All the components of Calibre 160W-1.2 have been designed and hand-crafted by the watchmaker in the finest Haute Horlogerie tradition. All 390 components show a degree and quality of hand-finishing achieved only with the most meticulous care, with the mirror-polished anchor bridge, the micro-blasted plate and bridges in particular bringing out mesmerizing contrasts. The shapes of the beveled and polished edges, too, multiply the ways in which light plays to the calibre’s intrinsic beauty.

The flight of the dragon

Behind the singular GENUS movement and display complication resides the fruit of over ten years gestation and three years of development. The two main features that distinguish GNS are the subject of patent applications: the rotating and peripheral display of the hour indices; and the passage from one orbit of the analemma to the

other. The trajectory of the dragon’s body segments around the foci was a major issue. They must be kept in place, yet at the same time be free to progress from one wheel to the other. Squaring this circle was rendered even more perplexing by the fact that the matter concerns each segment.

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The dragon segments are much heavier than the genera of the other GENUS watches. For one thing, they are made of 18K rose gold, a material much heavier than brass or steel. A dragon for keeping time would therefore pose a major constraint on the movement, both in terms of energy consumption and friction.

As for the required energy, it is amply supplied by the movement’s configuration, which delivers on its commitment to reliability, precision, and power to absorb the additional loads.

4. Digital Passport
 
To provide owners the guarantee of their timepiece’s authenticity and traceability throughout its lifetime, GENUS has joined forces with the Arianee Project, an independent consortium with the mission to establish a global standard for the digital certification of valuables. Based on Blockchain technology, the decentralized and open-source protocol offers a set of new services for the watch owner that are directly accessible from the Certificate of Authenticity delivered with each GENUS watch.
 
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The specifics of each GENUS DRAGON, including the transactions in which it is involved, e.g., sale and/or transmission to a new owner, service book, proof of ownership/theft declaration are recorded and protected. The Arianee protocol allows GENUS not only to emancipate itself from paper-based authentication (which can be counterfeited), but, most importantly, guarantees the traceability of the timepiece throughout its lifetime, even in the event of a change of ownership

If customers who are accustomed to conceptual fine watches should wonder as to the reliability of their movement, the history of GENUS and of its founders offers the best reassurance. Our longstanding experience as restorers, manufacturers and mentors has anchored the imperative of producing watches that work and will work for a long time deep in GENUS' watchmaking culture.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection     GNS 1

Name GNS DRAGON
Reference GNS1.2 WG DRAGON
 

CASE
Material 18K white gold
Thickness 18.8 mm
Diameter 43 mm
Crystal Domed sapphire crystal on face, flat sapphire crystal case back, with antireflective coating
Crown 18K white gold – G-E-N-U-S lettering in positive relief on the circumference, providing grip for winding
Water resistance Approx. 30 meters (3 ATM)
MOVEMENT
Calibre 160W-1.2
, manually winding, manufactured at the GENUS workshop in Geneva
Material Plate and bridges in 18K gold
Components 390
Rubies 26
Frequency 2.5 Hz or 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve Approx. 50
hours
Regulator Variable inertia balance wheel, Swiss anchor escapement
Modular Two modules:
- Power storage and transmission
- Power distribution and regulation
DISPLAY COMPLICATION
Hours 12 satellite indices / peripheral and axial rotation (patent pending)
Tens-of-minutes 11 mobile elements transitioning between two counter-rotating wheels (patent pending), crafted from 18K rose gold, stylized to form a dragon, and hand-engraved
Precise minute Skeletonized disc
Numbers and indicators Coated with SuperLuminova™
The display is read from left to right:
On the left, the hour is indicated by the fixed arrow
In the center, the tens-of-minutes are indicated by the dragon’s head
On the right, by the crown, the precise minute is indicated by the fixed arrow
STRAP AND BUCKLE
Material Calfskin (alligator upon request), rolled-edge (‘rembordé’), hand-stitched, choice of color
Buckle Pin buckle in 18K white gold (fold-over clasp available upon request)

PRICE
Suggested retail price CHF 150 000 excluding VAT, ex works – for gem-set versions and bespoke possibilities, please contact us.


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Press release - 2021
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GE Watches SA
GENUS

Rue du Rhône 114
CH-1204 Genève
contact@genuswatches.swiss
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Catherine Henry
catherine.henry@genuswatches.swiss
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Sales & Distribution
Pamela Cloutier

pamela.cloutier@genuswatches.swiss
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IWC – BIG PILOT’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Edition


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IWC SchaffhausenBIG PILOT’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Ceratanium® Edition (Ref. IW357201)


IWC UNVEILS BIG PILOT’S WATCH SHOCK ABSORBER XPL

Schaffhausen, 7th April 2021 – IWC Schaffhausen has presented the Big Pilot's Watch Shock Absorber XPL at the digital Watches and Wonders exhibition, the first watch to feature the brand’s patented new shock absorber system. Developed over eight years, the SPRIN-g PROTECT system is based on a cantilever spring that suspends the movement inside the case. Thanks to its perfect form and the use of Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG), the spring protects the movement against the g-forces generated during impacts on the watch. In impact tests conducted at the Cavendish Laboratory at the University of Cambridge, a protected movement has survived accelerations in excess of 30,000 g.

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From the pioneering days of flying to the supersonic jets used in naval aviation today, pilots operate under extreme conditions in cramped cockpits surrounded by sharp-edged metal objects. Therefore, extraordinary robustness has always been one of the most important functional requirements for IWC’s pilot’s watches. In recent years, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has taken robustness to ever greater heights by using exceptionally durable and scratch-resistant materials such as Ceratanium®. After an 8-year engineering journey, IWC has now succeeded in pushing the limits of what is physically possible in movement shock protection.

Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen

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    “Ever since F.A. Jones founded IWC more than 150 years ago, engineering and innovation have been at the core of our DNA. Today, we continue this heritage with our new engineering division, IWC Experimental, which drives cutting-edge developments in areas like advanced materials or g-protection. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL is the first brainchild of this division. Every detail has been carefully analysed and improved to redefine movement shock protection for mechanical watches,”
Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen


The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL (Ref. IW357201) is the first IWC watch to feature the patented SPRIN-g PROTECT system. At the heart of this system is a cantilever spring that protects the movement against the g-forces generated by impacts on the watch. It cushions the movement, allowing it to keep moving independentlym of the case before bringingnit to a stop more gently.

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When a watch suffers an impact, the movement and its components are subjected to high g-forces. If a pilot accidentally hits his watch against a hard surface in the cockpit, for example, accelerations are in the range of 300 to 1000 g. Our shock absorber system protects the movement so efficiently that it has survived accelerations in excess of 30,000 g in impact tests,” explains Dr Lorenz Brunner, Department Manager Research and Innovation at IWC Schaffhausen

A PERFECT FORM AND AN ADVANCED MATERIAL

The key to this performance lies in the spring’s perfect form and the material used to make it. The spring has been designed to evenly spread the stress across its length and width. Solving this challenge required advanced simulation tools and a painstaking design process. A second decisive factor is the choice of Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) as a material.

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A sophisticated manufacturing process gives BMG an amorphous microstructure, with the result that it is significantly more elastic than conventional metals. An ultralightweight titanium casing ring further reduces the mass that the shock absorber must hold. Another innovation is a unique crown system with a winding stem that allows the movement to displace independently of the case.

CUSTOM-MADE LIGHTWEIGHT MOVEMENT

Reducing the mass to be protected by the spring is critical for the system’s overall performance. The IWC manufactured 32115 calibre used for this watch is a custom-made lightweight construction.

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Components like the base plate are made from a high-tech aluminium alloy used in the aerospace sector, which is light and highly rigid. The bidirectional pawl winding system builds up a power reserve of 120 hours.

COMPREHENSIVELY TESTED WITH REAL IMPACTS

To put the SPRIN-g PROTECT system through its paces under the most realistic conditions, IWC collaborated with the Fracture & Shock Physics group at the Cavendish Laboratory of Cambridge University in England, U.K. The scientists used laser-based measurement methods and high-speed video recording to measure the effects that impacts show on the movement. During these comprehensive tests, protected movements have survived the extreme forces from accelerations in excess of 30,000 g.

STEALTH DESIGN IN MATTE BLACK CERATANIUM®

The XPL in the name of the watch stands for “experimental” and refers to the IWC Experimental engineering division. The powerful case geometry takes the iconic shape of the Big Pilot’s design to a completely new level by adding a futuristic surface treatment and details throughout the entire watch exterior.

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The case is made of Ceratanium®, an IWC-developed material based on a proprietary titanium alloy. It is as light and robust as titanium but at the same time similarly hard and scratchresistant as ceramic. The components are milled from bars and fired at high temperatures in a kiln. During this process, the surface assumes the characteristics of ceramics and gets its unique matte black finish. The stealthy black design is complemented with a black dial, a technical anti-reflective coating on the front glass, and a black rubber strap with leather inlay.

Due to the complexity of the manufacturing process, the annual production of the Big Pilot‘s Watch Shock Absorber XPL will be limited to 10 pieces per year and 30 pieces in total. The watch is available exclusively to order through IWC boutiques or our concierge service.

Download our brand-new IWC APP – currently available for iOS from the App Store – to virtually try on the new Pilot’s Watches using Augmented Reality (AR) and discover exciting features and exclusive content from the IWC Schaffhausen universe.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  BIG PILOT’s Watch

Model  BIG PILOT’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL  Blue Edition

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Ref.  IW357201

FEATURES
Mechanical movement
– SPRIN-g PROTECT® shock absorber system
– Screw-in crown
– Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
– Sapphire glass back
– Limited production 10 pieces per year

MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured Automatic calibre  32115
Côtes de Genève, perlage
Frequency:    28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
164 Components
Jewels:    21
Power reserve:   5 days (120 h)
Winding:    Automatic
DIAL
black dial, black hands with luminescence
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
WATCH
Materials:   Ceratanium®
Diameter:    44 mm
Height:    12.9mm
Crown:  Screw-locked
Glass:    Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 10 bar
STRAP:
Black rubber strap
Strap width 22 mm

Limited Edition - Only 10 Pieces
 
Year: Available from 7th April  2021
PRICE -Excl. Sales Tax  USD 83,600.00 ~  
 
 
WARRANTY  6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty
 
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Press releases - 2021
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Uwe Liebminger
Department Manager Public Relations
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  uwe.liebminger@iwc.com
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