Thursday, June 30, 2022

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Horloge Marine Clock N°14 Heritage

 

FERDINAND BERTHOUDCHRONOMÉTRIE Horloge Marine Clock 14 Heritage 1775 Limited Edition 

 A CUSTODIAN OF ACCURACY
ON SHOW AT
WATCHES AND WONDERS

It is not a watch; it is not a new model. You won't be able to talk to its creator, and you won't be able to wear it or even touch it. You will probably only see it once in your life. Discover this technical and horological masterpiece during Watches and Wonders Geneva.

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Ferdinand Berthoud made only 21 weight-driven marine clocks during his lifetime. To date, 11 of them have been located in private collections or museums; the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers in Paris alone has six examples. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is proud to announce that one of these 11 creations will be joining the L.U.CEUM collection in Fleurier.

A unique occasion to admire a pioneering precision timekeeping object

This measuring instrument is one of those that enabled navigation on the high seas and the discovery of new lands: only a Marine Clock allowed sailors to calculate longitudes and thus to keep a fixed course for several months. Entirely crafted using manual tools, it offered the ultimate level of accuracy for the time, gaining or losing just one second per week – an exceptional result that could still challenge the finest contemporary chronometers.

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It is interesting to note that the object has not acquired its value in recent times due to itsvenerableage, but was instead already valuable 250 years ago. It was the most important onboard instrument, placed in the Captain’s cabin and under his direct responsibility. The “Longitude” Marine Clocks" always went in pairs. This principle of redundancy when it comes to critical navigation instruments is still the rule nowadays for both maritime and airborne navigation.

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It is this extremely rare witness of a decisive early period in the history of horology that the Maison has decided to exhibit – accompanied by countless precautions– at Watches & Wonders Geneva. This clock bears number 14 and was made in 1775. It represents all the fundamentals that are the bedrock of contemporary watchmaking, and particularly of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.

Original inspiration

Ferdinand Berthoud designed several systems intended to guarantee the highest precision of his Marine Clocks. This enabled him to lay the groundwork for the longitude calculations on which transoceanic navigation depended – and hence for the expansion of the great 18th century European powers including the Spanish Navy, which purchased this No. 14 clock as part of a global order for eight chronometers built by Ferdinand Berthoud and delivered between 1775 and 1776.

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Among these systems was a constant force mechanism. The objective was to ensure the most regular possible distribution of the escapement’s driving torque. This device is still used today and equips all timepieces by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.

The second fundamental process in contemporary watchmaking is a pivoted detent escapement. Stable, energy-efficient and regular in its operation, the detent  escapement is considered the first free-sprung escapement. Within this construction, the impulse comes from the escape-wheel – which is why Ferdinand Berthoud designed it to be oversized (58.4 mm in diameter) in order to ensure perfect precision as a larger escape-wheel offers greater inertia and thus enhanced precision.

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Finally, Marine Clock No. 14 features a grid, the first true metallic mechanism compensating for the thermal variations that caused the metals in the movement to expand. Today, modern alloys pursue exactly the same goal. Their use was not possible three centuries ago, yet Ferdinand Berthoud had already understood the importance of thermal variations and the need to compensate for them.

Continuity of a heritage

Restoration work on Marine Clock No. 14 called for no less than 400 hours. This timepiece has been entirely restored to its original functional state, while retaining the patina associated with its age.
It still reflects the technical choices made by Ferdinand Berthoud, which continue to govern the development of the Maisonbearing his name today. The constant force escapement was used right from the start with the FB 1.1

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The vertical pillar-based construction of the clock – within a structure offering a view of the movement– has shaped the cases of all contemporary creations signed Ferdinand Berthoud. Finally, the eponymous Chronométrie scrupulously insists on the repairability of its timepieces, just as Ferdinand Berthoud was already doing in 1775. A successful approach indeed, since his Marine Clock No. 14 was once again set into operation without any major difficulty, 246 years after its creation.

Passing on the baton

This exceptional piece sums up the philosophy that guides Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud: A passion for watchmaking history; unwavering loyalty to the founding spirit of Ferdinand Berthoud; the judicious, patient and meticulous construction of the one and only museum that bears his name; the collection composed exclusively of authentic timepieces that have been restored to perfect working order; and finally, the transposition of this set of values into contemporary collections sharing the great watchmaker’s sense of innovation and experimentation, in order to reach new heights of timekeeping precision. It is with this requirement in mind that only a few dozen timepieces leave the workshops of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud each year.

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FAST FACTS

Marine Clock, Ferdinand Berthoud, No. 14, 1775

History

 

8                            This Marine Clock is part of an order of eight chronometers built in France by Ferdinand Berthoud and delivered between 1775 and 1776 to Cadiz, Spain. These were the first timepieces supplied by the master horologist to the Spanish Navy.

14                         This timepiece is the 14th Marine Clock made by Ferdinand Berthoud, who was 48 years old at the time.

1775                   Year when this rare Marine Clock No. 14 was invented and made.

1793                   Year in which this clock was placed under the supervision of 24-year-old Cayetano Sánchez, trained by Ferdinand Berthoud and in charge of maintenance for the chronometers of the Royal Institute and Observatory of the Spanish Navy located in San Fernando, in the Bay of Cadiz.

21                         Number of weight-driven marine clocks made by Ferdinand Berthoud and listed in the literature to date (of the 11 currently kept in museums and private collections, 6 are to be found in the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers in Paris).


Specifications

24 h                     Power reserve of this impressive timepiece

+/- 1 sec.          Weekly precision of Marine Clock No. 14. This one was placed on a gimbal system serving to maintain it in the same position despite a ship’s rolling and pitching.

139                      Exact number of components in this rare marine chronometer

58.4 mm            Diameter of its escape-wheel, which is larger than that of a long case clock

130 mm             Diameter of its gilded brass balance-wheel, suspended from a thin metal blade, whose axis pivots between two sets of three runners (rollers)

18.5 cm             Diameter of its baseplate-dial

52.5 cm             Total height of Marine Clock No. 14

 

400 h                  Number of hours required for its complete restoration (including historical research)

1,260 g              Weight of one of the two lead cylinders, together totalling 2,520 g

15.8 kg              Total weight of Marine Clock No. 14

 

 Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
 Limitation  Only 21 pieces. 

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Press Release - 2022
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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Wednesday, June 29, 2022

BLANCPAIN – Fifty Fathoms BATHYSCAPHE Quantieme Complet

 

BLANCPAINFifty Fathoms BATHYSCAPHE Quantième Complet Gold and Titanium 43mm 2022

 Two new faces for the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet


Blancpain presents two new interpretations of its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet model: a red gold version with a blue-gradient dial; and a titanium version with an anthracite dial. Through their distinct styles, these new models bring together two emblematic Blancpain universes: the sporting DNA of its famous Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch; and its traditional complete calendar with moon phases.

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The Bathyscaphe was created in 1956 with the aim of offering a diver’s watch whose size would make it suitable for everyday wear. It is one of the mainstays of the Fifty Fathoms collection. It has evolved over the years and was reinterpreted by Blancpain in 2013 to mark the 60th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms.

Combining sporty features with day of the week, month and date indications, the Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet model reinforces the principle of everyday utility that gave rise to the first Bathyscaphe. The information on the dial is complemented by a moon phase positioned in a large window at 6 o’clock. 
 
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As usual, Blancpain has taken care to protect the 6654.P self-winding movement of this Bathyscaphe by equipping its date mechanism with a security system. This enables the owner of the watch to handle each indication at any time, without any risk to the movement, unlike the usual calendar watches.

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Measuring 43 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 30 bar (approximately 300 m), the new Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet is available in two satin-brushed versions with well-marked contours: one in red gold and the other in grade 23 titanium. The red gold model is paired with a sunburst blue-gradient dial that catches the light with remarkable ease. The gold hour-markers, hands and moon match the case colour and the dial is framed by a unidirectional rotating bezel with a brilliant blue ceramic inlay featuring a Ceragold™ time scale.

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The colour-material match continues on the back of the timepiece which reveals a red gold oscillating weight. Meanwhile, the titanium model is distinguished by subtle shades of grey. Its sunburst anthracite dial is enhanced by gold hour-markers, rhodium-plated hands and moon. The likewise anthracite ceramic bezel is satin-brushed for a resolutely contemporary matt effect and bears a graduated Liquidmetal™ scale. The gold rotor of the titanium model has been given an anthracite NAC coating instilling a sporty and dynamic vibe.
 
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The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet watch in red gold is available with a blue NATO or sailcloth strap, with the latter option also offering a choice between a pin buckle and a folding clasp. The titanium model comes with a titanium bracelet or a grey NATO or sailcloth strap.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Fifty Fathoms

Model:: BATHYSCAPHE Quantième Complet 

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Movement
Self-winding movement Calibre 6654.P   
Frequency: 4 Hz
Diameter: 32 mm | 14”’
Thickness: 5.48 mm
Power reserve: 72 hours
Jewels: 28
Components: 321  
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Complications
Complete Calendar
This practical complication indicates the date, day of the weeks and the month. The changing face of the moon reproduced on the dial adds a poetic note.
Moon phases
The reproduction of the lunar cycles on the dials of Blancpain complete calendar watches evokes the time-honoured ties between watchmaking and astronomy.

Case
Material:

  • Titanium
  • 18ct Red Gold

Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 13.3 mm
Water Resistance: 30 bar
Width Between Horns: 23 mm
Specificities: Unidirectional satin-brushed titanium bezel with ceramic insert and Liquidmetal™ hour-markers / Unidirectional satin-brushed 18ct red gold bezel with ceramic insert and Ceragold™

Strap & Bracelet
Type: Titanium strap / Sail-canvas strap
Material: Metal / Fabric
Clasp: Folding clasp

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Press release - 2022
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Blancpain S.A.
Le Rocher 12
1348 Le Brassus
Suisse
International PR Specialist: Lucie Notari
Tel.  (+41) 21 796 3619
Fax (+41) 21 796 3637
E-mail: pr@blancpain.com
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Tuesday, June 28, 2022

SEIKO –PROSPEX Black Series Limited Editions

SEIKO PROSPEX ‘Black Series’ Diver’s Watches Limited Edition 2022

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 Seiko Prospex the Black Series Limited Editions

The Black Series takes a fascinating step forward with a lineup of three new watches featuring a Lumibrite variant that brings a long-lasting bright green look to the hands and indexes. Because the color green is most noticeable in the dark, and because the deep gray color of the dials minimizes unwanted light reflection, these watches offer the highest degree of legibility in the dark.  

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In addition to their 'night vision' qualities, the watches in this series also have a water resistance of 200 meters. They feature sapphire crystal and offer a choice of designs tailored for divers and adventure seekers.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO Very popular since its inception and now in its third year of limited edition release, the Seiko Prospex Black Series was originally inspired by the mysterious world of night diving. The green lumibrite colouring on the markers and hands is designed for increased visibility in the dark world of the night seas, allowing time to be read clearly in dark conditions.

  • This practical compact diver’s watch with sapphire glass is conveniently solar-powered; the watch charges from both natural and electric light.

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This specific design is inspired by Seiko’s 1965 Diver’s watch – Japan’s first ever Japanese 150m Diving watch, worn on Japanese Antarctic Expeditions until 1969.

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  • This watch shape is nicknamed by Seiko fans as a ‘Samurai’ – because of its angular shaped design which looks as if it were sliced by a Japanese Samurai sword.
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  • The name ‘Tortoise’ is inspired by the popular diving watch shape nicknamed by Seiko fans as the ‘Turtle’ because of its shell-like profile.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO Prospex is a combination of the words ‘Professional’ and ‘Specifications’. These timepieces are designed to be practical, reliable and durable within extreme or everyday environments, for experts, sports lovers and adventure seekers alike.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOSince launching Japan’s first diver’s watch in 1965, Seiko’s innovative watchmaking has changed global dive watch standards

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

SPORT - Collection

Model:  PROSPEX ‘Black Series’ Solar Diver’s 1965 Re-Interpretation Edition
 

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Ref. SNE587P1 - Bracelet

Movement
Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month (±1 second per day)
Calibre: V147
Movement Type: Quartz Solar

Case
Material:
Stainless steel (hard coating)
Thickness: 10.6mm
Diameter: 38.5mm
Length: 46.45mm
Lug Width: 20.0mm
Water Resistance: 20 bar
Crystal Type:
Sapphire   
Exterior
Dial Colour: Grey
LumiBrite: Lumibrite on hands, indexes and bezel
Clasp: Three-fold clasp with secure lock, push button release with extender
Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel (hard coating)
    

Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: € 640
Limited Edition of 600 pieces 

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This watch shape is nicknamed by Seiko fans as a ‘Samurai’ – because of its angular shaped design which looks as if it were sliced by a Japanese Samurai sword.

Model:  PROSPEX ‘Black Series’ Samurai Diver's Edition

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Ref. SRPH99K1 - Polyester Strap

Movement

Calibre: 4R35
Movement Type: Automatic & Manual Winding
Accuracy: -35/+45 seconds per day
Power Reserve: 41 Hours

Watch Case
Material: Stainless steel (hard coating)
Thickness: 11.72mm
Diameter: 42.4mm
Length: 45.17mm
Lug Width: 20.0mm
Water Resistance: 20 bar
Crystal Type: Sapphire   
Exterior
Dial Colour: Grey
LumiBrite: Lumibrite on hands and indexes
Clasp: Pin buckle
Strap/Bracelet: Polyester
    
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: € 590
Limited Edition of 7.000 pieces 

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The name ‘Tortoise’ is inspired by the popular diving watch shape nicknamed by Seiko fans as the ‘Turtle’ because of its shell-like profile.

Model:  PROSPEX ‘Black Series’ King Tortoise Diver's Edition

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Ref. SRPH97K1 - Silicone  Strap

Movement

Calibre: 4R35
Movement Type: Automatic & Manual Winding
Accuracy:  -35/+45 seconds per day
Power Reserve: 41 Hours

Watch Case
Material: Stainless steel (hard coating)
Thickness: 13.4mm
Diameter: 43.8mm
Case Length: 48.4mm
Lug Width: 22.0mm
Water Resistance: 20 bar
Crystal Type: Sapphire crystal with magnifier
Exterior
Dial Colour: Grey
LumiBrite: Lumibrite on hands, indexes and bezel
Clasp: Pin buckle
Strap/Bracelet: Silicone

Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: € 690
Limited Edition of 8.000 pieces 

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Press releases - 2022
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SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION
Mr­­ Noboru­­ Miyadera
2-8-10, Toranomon, Minato-ku,
Tokyo­­ 105-8467
Japan
Telephone+81 3 6739 2150
Telefax+81 3 6739 2071
seiko-pr@seiko-watch.co.jp
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