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A watch made by Moritz Grossmann is the joint work of many talented hands: numerous techniques are practised at the manufactory in Glashütte, resulting in the creation of exceptional timepieces.
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The watch brings the innovations of outstanding watchmakers of yesteryear and the present day together with the very best finishing and decorating techniques as maintained at the manufactory in Glashütte, the watchmaking town in Saxony.
The dial: staging the mechanics
With absolute devotion, attention is paid both to the watch’s inner workings and its features. The TOURBILLON Tremblage’s dial is one of its special features – a multi-part construction made of German silver in a symmetrical design.
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The challenge is to achieve an even look, creating an effect which is both rough and matt. In the case of the inner dial of the TOURBILLON Tremblage model, this has been achieved to captivating perfection, as the tremblage surface softens the incident light, making it appear wonderfully matt. The other parts of the dial are matt opaline.
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All the dial parts are subsequently galvanised in ‘black-or’ – an expressive anthracite colour. The processing of the dial, from the engraving to the finishing, requires several days to complete.
The presentation of time
At the heart of the dial visually is the tourbillon, which is flanked by the off-centre hour display at 3 o’clock and a second display at 9 o’clock.
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The fine tip of the minute hand sweeps past the minute scale around the dial’s outer perimeter. As the minute display is interrupted by the aperture for the tourbillon in the lower half of the dial, the minute hand has been extended beyond the centre.
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With its Arabic numerals in white and the very delicately tapered hands crafted at the company’s own manufactory, the TOURBILLON Tremblage showcases the clear aesthetics of the Glashütte precision measuring instruments of the 19th century.
The legacy of great watchmakers
The major personalities whose achievements serve as the basis for this latest innovation go by the names of Moritz Grossmann, Alfred Helwig and Abraham Louis Breguet.
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Grossmann, who founded the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte in 1878, influenced watch manufacture in the 19th century and established a rich watchmaking legacy.
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The tourbillon became a highly respected complication in wristwatches too as it attests to the very height of watchmaking expertise.
A modern version of traditional mechanics
The Moritz Grossmann manufactory unveiled the first calibre with a tourbillon more than ten years ago. It bears the company’s unmistakable signature as the manufactory does not settle for repeating the past, instead creating modern versions of traditional mechanics. This involves handed-down techniques being completely reimagined, such as the construction of the tourbillon in the hand-wound calibre 103.0.
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Stop-second function with elastic brush made of hair
The cage’s elaborate design with two triangular pillars is the prerequisite for another special construction feature. According to the Grossmann watchmakers’ understanding, the precise mechanics of a tourbillon first call for exact time setting.
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The finish: detailed perfection
The devotion with which timepieces are constructed and manufactured at Moritz Grossmann is also seen at the highest level at the decoration stage: each and every component is individually finished by hand.
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Perfection in white gold and rose gold
The new TOURBILLON Tremblage is premiering in two versions: with a case in rose or in white gold and hands in rose gold or steel.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model: BENU Tourbillon Tremblage Gold Edition
Versions:
Reference: MG-003617 - Rose Gold
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Dial: Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, printed Arabic numerals
Hands: Handcrafted, 750/000 gold, polished
Limitation 8 watches 🔴 Price : 237 400 € 💰
Reference: MG-003616 - White Gold
Dial: Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, printed Arabic numerals
Hands: Handcrafted, polished steel
Movement
Manufacture calibre 103.0, manually wound, adjusted in five positions
No. of parts: 245 (wheel train 186, cage 59)
No. of jewels: 30, 4 of which in screwed gold chatons (wheel train 17, cage 13)
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Escapement: Lever escapement
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Cage diameter: 16.2 mm
Cage speed: 1 revolution in three minutes, anti-clockwise when viewed from dial side
Balance diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound
Functions / features
Flying three-minute tourbillon with screw-secured driving wheel and V-shaped balance bridge (design patent pending)
Sweep minutes, off-centre hours and seconds with stop seconds, replacement of the missing minute scale segment from 25 to 35 minutes with a separate scale swept by the extension of the minute hand on the opposite side (patent pending)
Stop seconds at the balance wheel rim with a pivoting fine-hair brush (patent pending)
Asymmetric-arm lever escapement with counterweight and lever banking pin
Grossmann balance with suspended balance spring, adjustable with poising screws in the rim
Newly developed mainspring barrel jewel bearing
Brake ring on the fourth-wheel arbor made of very hard, oily guaiacum
ARCAP train wheels
Grossmann winder with pusher to deactivate the handsetting mode and start the movement
Modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash
Pillar movement with 2/3 plate and frame pillars in untreated German silver
Hand-engraved 2/3 plate and tourbillon cock
Broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing
3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel
Raised gold chatons with pan-head screws
White sapphire bearing jewels
Separately removable clutch winder
Crown in 750/000 white gold to wind the watch and set the time,
pusher in 750/000 white gold to start the movement
Case dimensions:
Diameter: 44.5 mm, height: 13.8 mm
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 38.4 mm, height: 7.1 mm
Case
Three-part, in 750/000 white gold
Dial
Multi-part in German silver, galvanised in ‘black-or’, tremblage inner dial, Arabic numerals printed white Hands: Handcrafted in 750/000 gold/polished steel
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid butterfly clasp in 750/000 gold
Special features
and V-shaped balance bridge (protected as a registered design);
central minute display, off-centre display for hours and seconds
with stop-second function, bridging of the scale gap in the minute
dial from 25–35 minutes via a hand extension with separate scale
(patented); stop-second function on balance rim with intervention
by a hair brush (patented); asymmetric-arm lever escapement
with counterweight and lever banking pin; Grossmann balance
with a suspended balance spring and regulation via
poising screws in the balance rim; newly developed jewel bearing
for the barrel; brake ring on the second arbor made of very hard,
oily lignum vitae; movement wheels made of ARCAP; Grossmann
manual winder with pusher to override hand setting and to start
movement; modified Glashütte recoil click; pillar movement with
plate and frame pillars made of untreated German silver; plate and
tourbillon cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte
ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons
with pan-head screws; white sapphires as jewels; separately
removable yoke winding mechanism
Limitation 8 watches
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Moritz Grossmann Uhren:
Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden in 1826, was deemed a visionary among Germany’s great horologists. In 1854, his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange
persuaded the young, highly talented watchmaker to establish his own
mechanical workshop in Glashütte. Apart from building a respected
watchmaking business, Grossmann was committed to political and social causes. He established the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Moritz Grossmann passed away unexpectedly in 1885, after which his manufacture was liquidated.
The spirit of Moritz Grossmann’s horological traditions sprang back to life in 2008 when
trained watchmaker Christine Hutter discovered the venerable Glashütte
brand and had it re-registered. She developed concepts and was inspired
by the vision of reviving Grossmann’s legacy more than 120
years later with a particularly exquisite wristwatch. And she convinced
private watch enthusiasts to support her in making this dream come
true. On 11 November 2008, she incorporated Grossmann Uhren GmbH in Glashütte.
At Grossmann,
gifted watchmakers are preserving traditions without copying historic
timepieces. With innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of
traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious
materials, they have created an “Origin of a new time” with their
watches.
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Press release - 2024
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PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Sandra Behrens – Head of Communications & Marketing
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
sandra.behrens@grossmann-uhren.com
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