A. Lange & Söhne – 1815 TOURBOGRAPH Perpetual "Pour le Mérite" Tourbillon Platinum Limited Edition
The epitome of classic watchmaking
The fifth masterpiece in A. Lange & Söhne's
"Pour le Mérite" series combines the fusée-and-chain transmission
with a tourbillon, a chronograph, a rattrapante function and a perpetual
calendar. The combination of these five complications makes the TOURBOGRAPH
PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" a peerless timepiece.
In
October 1994, A. Lange & Söhne presented the first collection of the new
era, including the legendary TOURBILLON "Pour le Mérite", the first
wristwatch with a tourbillon and a fusée-and-chain transmission. It was
followed in 2005 with a further model in which these two elaborate
constructions were united: the TOURBOGRAPH "Pour le Mérite". But
there was more: a chronograph with the rattrapante function made it the
manufactory's most complicated watch at the time.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Now, the
movement has been endowed with a fifth complication. In the development phase,
the integration of a perpetual calendar in the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour
le Mérite" presented the engineers of the Saxon manufactory with a
formidable challenge: to orchestrate the interaction of the complex mechanisms
in such a way that mechanical conflicts or unwanted energy losses could be
prevented.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
In this project, the perpetual calendar mechanism had to be built
around the tourbillon. Consequently, only about two thirds of the movement
surface were available, and this necessitated a redesign of the basic calibre.
At the same time, the developers did not want to noticeably increase the height
of the movement.
A classic concept
The
TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" is the epitome of classic
watchmaking: its hallmarks permeate all domains from design and engineering to
consummate, flawless artisanship. The dial itself reflects the traditional
approach in timekeeping. Arabic numerals, a railway-track minute scale, blued
steel hands for the time and rhodiumed gold hands for the calendar as well as
the cloverleaf arrangement of the subsidiary dials pay tribute to the famous A.
Lange & Söhne pocket watches.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Tradition also governs technical details such
as column-wheel control for the chronograph and rattrapante mechanisms as well
as the screw balance. Finally, it manifests itself in typical quality elements such
as the two diamond endstones that suspend the tourbillon cage or the
black-polished tourbillon bridge. The stately platinum case with a diameter of
43 millimetres is a fitting stage for this horological masterpiece.
Perpetual calendar
Of the
684 parts of the new
L133.1 manufacture calibre, no fewer than
206 constitute the perpetual calendar with its analogue displays. It will correctly indicate the duration of each month until
2100. A one-time correction will be needed on the last day of February in this secular year. From then on, the calendar will again be correctly calibrated for the next hundred years. It has three subsidiary dials. The date at 12 o'clock and the day at 9 o'clock are indicated with rhodiumed gold hands.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The month and leap year are both displayed at 3 o'clock. The upper half of the analogue date also accommodates the moon-phase display which is calculated to remain accurate for
122.6 years. Its deep-blue disc is made of solid gold. During the development of the calendar module to be built around the tourbillon, great emphasis was placed on space-saving architecture.
Chronograph with rattrapante function
The development of highly complex chronographs and their meaningful interaction with other functions is among the
Saxon manufactory's key skills. Apart from the two chronograph pushers on both sides of the crown, a third button at 10 o'clock modestly reveals that the
TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" deserves a place in the top-tier category of split-seconds chronographs. The fascinating function of the split-seconds mechanism can be observed in great detail with a look through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The precise control of the gold-plated chronograph hand and the blued rattrapante hand is handled by two column wheels. During a complete revolution of the 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock, as many lap times as needed can be stopped
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The combination of a perpetual calendar with a split-seconds chronograph is very rare. Power management is an especially challenging undertaking. In particular, the simultaneous use of several functions calls for mechanical ingenuity, for instance when the calendar indications advance around midnight and the stopwatch function is used at the same time. Assembling such a movement requires considerable experience and exceptional sensitivity when adjusting and harmonising the mechanisms.
One-minute tourbillon
In the way they flawlessly interact, the tourbillon and the fusée-and-chain transmission offset two disruptive phenomena in a mechanical movement: gravity and waning spring force. Thus, they contribute to improved rate stability and rate accuracy.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The
L133.1 movement that works inside the
TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite"
is already the tenth calibre with the delicately linked mechanism that
overcomes the pull of gravity. The traditional black polish of the
tourbillon bridge integrated in the dial imposes new challenges on the
finisseurs because for the first time ever, this complex finishing
technique is being applied to a curved surface.
Fusée-and-chain transmission
The results of
A. Lange & Söhne's efforts to develop intelligent energy management systems for mechanical movements – and thus to compensate for the unavoidable torque loss of the mainspring barrel – include three different constant-force escapements as well as the fusée-and-chain transmission which was integrated in a wristwatch for the first time in
1994. It is the technical hallmark shared by all timepieces identified by the attribute
"Pour le Mérite" in reference to the erstwhile Prussian order conferred for exceptional scientific merit.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Via a fusée connected to the spring barrel with a chain, the force of
the mainspring is delivered to the movement in constant increments
thanks to the ingenious way in which the principle of levers is
harnessed. A planetary gearing mechanism inside the fusée assures that
the flow of power from the mainspring barrel to the escapement is not
interrupted while the watch is being wound. The filigreed yet robust
mechanism requires the utmost in attention as regards design,
production, finissage, and assembly.
Perfection down to the last detail
The
TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" is being crafted in a limited
edition of only 50 platinum-cased watches. The finish of the manufacture
calibre complies with the highest standards of Saxon watchmaking artistry.
Thermally blued screws, screwed gold chatons, bridges and plates made of
untreated German silver and decorated with Glashütte ribbing and perlage as
well as the hand-engraved chronograph bridge round out the highlights of the
classic complication.
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Technical Specifications
Model:
1815 TOURBOGRAPH Perpetual "Pour le Mérite" Platinum Edition
Reference: № 706.025 - Platinum
Movement
Lange manufacture calibre: L133.1
Number of movement parts / jewels: 684
(one of them the chain which consists of
636 parts) /
52 (including
2 diamond endstones)
Screwed gold chatons: 6
Movement measures:
Diameter: 32.0 millimetres; height: 10.9 millimetres
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator:
Shock-resistant screw balance, balance spring manufactured in-house
with a frequency of
21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 36 hours when fully wound
Functions:
Hours and minutes; tourbillon; rattrapante chronograph;
perpetual calendar with date, day-of-week, month and leap-year display; moon-phase display
Case measures:
Diameter: 43.0 millimetres
Height: 16.6 millimetres
Case
Platinum 950
Dial: Solid silver, argenté
Hands: Rhodiumed gold, blued steel and gold-plated steel
Strap
Black Hand-stitched alligator leather strap.
Buckle: Platinum
Lange prong buckle
Limited edition:
50 watches
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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
Tel.: +49 35053 ; 44-5505
E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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