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Across time and space, a new kind of spacecraft is relentlessly exploring the watchmaking galaxy on the lookout for new unique expressions of the watchmaker's art...
Contemporary timepieces designed by HYT, exclusive owners of mecafluid technology, the symbiotic marriage of science and micromechanics, are propelling the creativity of fine watchmaking into a new universe. Transforming usual perceptions, HYT develops extraordinary measurement instruments. With HYT, preparations are on for the future and watchmaking has begun its tranformation.
Get on board now for a new voyage:Mission Hastroid Cosmic Hunter Mission objective: Show the Hastroid's beams Flight plan: Launch and orbit on 22 november 2022. Instrument:HYT HastroidCosmic Hunter.
This autumn, the HYT Hastroid is dressed in warm and sensual tones with the bronze evolution of its casing. A change which is original to say the least, as it combines Hastroid's futuristic nature with the texture of a material that harks back to the most ancient times. Elegant and sophisticated, the new HastroidCosmic Hunter is a perfect new addition to HYT's bold approach.
“We are engaged in a process of brilliant craftsmanship that flawlessly integrates fluidic technology and mechanical complexities” tates Davide Cerrato, CEO and Creative Director of HYT.
Hastroid,a vintage hunter look
This brilliant craftsmanship is clearly expressed in the bi-material casing design, which is 48 mm in diameter, with a total length of 52.3 mm and a 17.2 mm case thickness, of the new Hastroid CosmicHunter. The originality of the piece lies in the marriage of carbon and titanium coated in a PVD bronze treatment and a microbead finish. The advantage of this bronze galvanic coating is a vintage hunter look with the surprising lightness of the Hastroid.
Known for millennia, bronze is traditionally an alloy of copper and tin, whose colour, close to that of gold, generally tends to change, due to oxidation. It is not rare for bronze to turn black or take on a verdigris shade. To make its new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter timeless, HYT decided to maintain the bronze colour using a stabilising surface treatment. By fixing its beauty and brightness, using a staunchly contemporary approach, free of any nostalgia or attempt to create an artificial vintage effect, HYT is driving bronze into a new futuristic age.
Offering a beautiful contrasting effect, this variation of the casing colour accentuates optimal readability of the dial, with its beige figures in Lumicast®, a state-of-the-art material, a three-dimensional Superluminova® application to emphasise the brightness, its matte black-treated hands and, of course, its fluid showing the retrograde passage of the hours. This black fluid, in its extra-fine borosilicate capillary, is the remarkable unique feature of the mecafluidic timepieces designed by HYT
"Mecafluidic technology is a new term in science and research, harnessed for use in luxury watchmaking. We have the ability to highlight the symbiotic nature of these two - mechanical and fluidic - technologies" says Davide Cerrato, HYT CEO and creative director.
The multi-layer middle case of the Hastroid presents subtle openwork, while the sandwiched construction method of the watch overall, waterproof up to 50 metres, with a central protective titanium case for movement, allows optimal handling of the missions assigned to this new spacecraft.
Like a flight deck, the watch is topped by domed sapphire crystal offering a largely unobstructed view of the overall dial. The centrepiece of the mecafluid mechanism remains, of course, the fluid system, with two central "bellow" reservoirs, whose design, unique to HYT creations, reinforces the character and feeling of power and the capillary surrounding the dial.
It is driven by a manual winding mechanical movement, 501 CM calibre, at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz) and with 72 hours' power reserve.
This calibre was designed by Eric Coudray®, renowned master watchmaker, winner of the 2012 PrixGaïa. With PURTEC (part of the TEC Group), and the assistance of his longtime friend and watchmaker Paul Clémenti (Gaïa 2018), the movement has developed a finer aesthetic and finish, with elegant satin finish or laser-treated or bead-blasted parts.
To emphasise the character of this piece of fine contemporary watchmaking, the black rubber bracelet with green inlay with a military accent in Alcantara® is adorned with an embossed Corioform® design inspired by space suits worn by astronauts.
Case Bronze coated satin finished titanium & carbon case (64 parts) Crown in bronze & black coated titanium Domed sapphire crystal (box) with anti-reflective coating Black side grids with green background Width 48.00 mm Lenght 52.30 mm Thickness 17.20 mm Water-resistant: 50 metres Back engraving: HS-04 Functions:
Retrograde fluidic hours
Central minutes hand
Small second hand
Power reserve hand
Movement
Mechanical with manual winding, exclusive caliber Calibre 501-CM (352 parts) Frequency:28,800 Vph, 4 Hz, 41 jewels Finishing: Finely sandblasted and sating Coating & Color: Black coating Power reserve: 72-hour Dial Black coated brass & transparent plate (50 parts) 3D black coated appliques, rainbow luminous numbers (Lumicast) Black grid with black background Black liquid inside borosilicate capillary tube Hands Black mat minutes hand, blue & white SLN Black mat secondes hand, red & white SLN Black mat power reserve hand, red SLN All SLN in Lumicast Strap Black rubber strap ? Military green embossed strap decor Green stitching Buckle simple. Black coated titanium, Satin & sandblasted finishies
The new freelancer GMT Worldtimer is 40.5mm in diameter and
has a thickness of 9.7mm, a modest figure considering the complexity
housed within. Designed for intrepid explorers, business travellers and
individuals who skillfully balance their life in different parts of the
world, this model allows the wearer to view 24 time zones
simultaneously.
The dial of this model is equipped with a rotating
track, marked with one prominent city for each time zone. The city disc
sits adjacent a 24-hour scale, indicating the relevant hour in the
location shown and whether it is day/night.
Barrel-shaped hour and
minute hands indicate the ‘local time’. To display the local time for
the current location, the wearer simply rotates the crown at 4 o’clock,
positioning the name of the local city adjacent to the prevailing hour.
In addition to displaying the local time for the current location, the
city disc simultaneously shows the relevant hour for each of the
remaining 23 time zones. In addition to the rotating city disc, a black
GMT hand, featuring a prominent triangular red and white tip, indicates
the prevailing hour at home. A highly legible lollipop hand completes
the set of hands.
Thefreelancer GMT Worldtimer is available in two versions, one with a black dial and the other with a green dial.
The black dial is paired with a stainless steel case coated with black
DLC, a shade that exhibits an understated character while appearing
eminently sophisticated. In contrast, the green dial option features a
stainless steel case, but in this instance it is matched with a bronze
bezel and two bronze crowns.
Bronze is an interesting alloy that
acquires an attractive patina with time. This model proves a stylish
exemplar of military chic with its khaki tones and bronze accents,
making it the perfect timepiece for adventurous types. While the two
watches exhibit different characters, they both incorporate gradient
dial tones.
The progression from dark to light not only heightens the
visual allure of each dial option, but also serves as a means of
indicating the transition from day to night. In terms of wearing the
watch at night, readability is assured. The hands and indexes are
treated with Super-LumiNova®, emitting either a blue or green glow
depending on their functional role.
In isolation, these refinements may
seem subtle, but when viewed collectively they enrich the ownership
experience. Located at the heart of the freelancer GMT
Worldtimer is the new Calibre RW3230, a Swiss automatic movement with a
power reserve of 50 hours. Measuring just 4.1mm in height, the modest
thickness of the movement has led to the new model’s elegant, slender
profile.
Consistent with RAYMOND WEIL’s esteemed reputation for quality, the
lower part of the bridges is adorned with perlage, the barrel cover is
snailed and the top part of the bridges and oscillating mass are
embellished with Côtes de Genève motif. Purists will be pleased to learn
that the movement can be admired at close quarters, courtesy of the
model’s exhibition case back. Each timepiece comes supplied on a
colour-coordinated calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a
folding clasp, featuring a double push-security system.
MOVEMENT Mechanical self-winding movement with GMT function Calibre -RW3230 height: 4.1 mm POWER-RESERVE 56 hours JEWELS 27 FUNCTIONS Central hours, minutes, seconds and GMT
Hours, minutes, seconds
GMT - second time zone
24 cities and time zones
Date
Date and day windows at 6 o’clock CASE Round – Stainless steel with black DLC coating Diameter: 40.5mm Thickness: 9.50mm CROWN Screwed-down, 2pm with RW monogram, 4pm with World map and Swiss federal cross symbols CRYSTAL Screwed-down, stainless steel with Titanium color coating, with sapphire crystal WATER RESISTANCE 10 ATM, 100 m, 330 ft, DIAL Gradient black, applied indexes enhanced with Super-Luminova® 24h zone with day and night indication + city zone with 24 cities BRACELET Black genuine calf leather with alligator motif Stainless steel folding clasp with black PVD coating and double push-security system
MOVEMENT Mechanical self-winding movement with GMT function Calibre -RW3230 height: 4.1 mm POWER-RESERVE 56 hours JEWELS 27 FUNCTIONS Central hours, minutes, seconds and GMT
Hours, minutes, seconds
GMT - second time zone
24 cities and time zones
Date
Date and day windows at 6 o’clock CASE Round – Stainless steel and bronze Diameter: 40.5mm Thickness: 9.50mm CROWN Screwed-down, 2pm with RW monogram, 4pm with World map and Swiss federal cross symbols CRYSTAL Screwed-down, stainless steel with Titanium color coating, with sapphire crystal WATER RESISTANCE 10 ATM, 100 m, 330 ft, DIAL Gradient green, applied indexes enhanced with Super-Luminova® 24h zone with day and night indication + city zone with 24 cities BRACELET Green genuine calf leather with alligator motif Stainless steel folding clasp with black PVD coating and double push-security system
#PrecisionMovements #RWFreelancer
-------------------------- Press Release- 2022
----------------------------------------------- RAYMOND WEIL S.A
AVENUE EUGENE-LANCE 36-38
P.O.BOX 1569 - 1211 GENEVA 26
SWITZERLAND TEL. 022/884.00.55 FAX 022/884.00.50
----------------------------------------------------------- www.facebook.com - Raymond Weil
------------------------------------------------------------------ www.Raymond-Weil.com
U-BOAT presents a version of the acclaimed Darkmoon model, in 44.80 mm steel, with a grey and black shaded dial, hands and numbers treated with white luminova.
Modern and a classic of timeless elegance, grey is a nuance that could not be missing in the Darkmoon watch collection of the Tuscan Maison. Hence the creation of the new DARKMOON 44MM GREY SS, a watch that boasts, under the domed sapphire crystal, a shaded grey painted dial, emphasised by the iconic three-dimensional vision given by the "Oil Immersion" concept.
The 44.80 mm AISI 316L steel case is in fact filled with a special oil, which combined with the floating compensation bubble for temperature variations, creates an amplified view of the dial, as in the absence of glass, combined with a harmonious contrast given by the black hands and indexes and by the white numbers, all treated with white luminova.
The precision of the Swiss Ronda 712.3 quartz movement, lubricated in oil bath, allows the time-only function, while the case-back is characterised by the innovative locking system (Locking Ring System) with quick battery replacement.
The watch, waterproof to 50 meters, is completed by an ultra-resistant black vulcanised rubber strap customised with the embossed Maison logo with a pin buckle.
The elegance of grey, the concept of "Oil Immersion" and the three-dimensional effect of the dial, all combined in a model ready to be worn on your wrist.
Ref. 9149 MOVEMENT Swiss precision of theRonda 712.3 quartz movement, lubricated with oil bath. FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, screw-down crown. CASE Stainless steel AISI 316L Diameter 44,80mm. Completely filled with a special oil that emphasizes the dial, creating the illusion of the absence of glass, and an optical effect of an higher legibility. Visible air bubble on the dial to compensate the temperature variations. Distinguishing crown on left side. BACK: innovative locking system (Locking ring system) with quick battery replacement. WATER RESISTANCE:50 mt, 5 ATM. DIAL grey black painted metal, hands, numbers and indexes treated with white luminova. CRYSTAL: domed sapphire. STRAP Ultra-resistant vulcanised rubber, in black color, personalised with the logo of the Maison in relief. Width 22/20 mm. Strap: ref. 8351/Z. Steel tongue buckle. Buckle: ref. 9518
RaúlPAGÈS – Régulateur à détenteRP1Exclusive Piece2022
The beginning of 2022 is marked by the presentation of the third
creation of independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès: the Régulateur à détente
RP1. Entirely developed and manufactured in his workshop in Les Brenets
(Switzerland), it is equipped with a brand-new precision movement with a
pivoted detent escapement with anti-tripping device.
This escapement is
the Holy Grail of precision chronometry and its miniaturisation in the
format of a wristwatch is a rare feat. With its characteristic dial,
this timepiece pays tribute to the emblematic precision regulators that
Raúl Pagès reinterprets here in a contemporary aesthetic. An exclusive
piece that combines tradition, precision and beauty, all values dear to
its creator.
The Régulateur à détente RP1 in detail
The Pagès Régulateur à détente: technicality, quality and tradition
As
a true master craftsman, Raúl Pagès has entirely conceived, designed
and produced the Régulateur à détente RP1 with his own hands in his
workshop in Les Brenets (Switzerland). This exceptional timepiece meets
the most demanding criteria of traditional fine watchmaking and
handcrafting. Equipped with a brand new calibre fitted with a pivoted
detent escapement, the Régulateur à détente RP1 is in line with the
tradition of exceptional chronometers.
The great precision of the
movement is matched by the choice of display: the regulator. An iconic
dial of high-level chronometry, the regulator offers its own space for
each of its hands: hours, minutes and seconds. Each indication thus has
its own dial. The three hands follow their own rhythm to give an
extremely precise time indication.
The minutes hand dominates and
enlivens the centre of the dial, while the hours and seconds are located
at 12 and 6 o’clock respectively – or rather at 60 and 30 minutes.
Elegance, purity and the detent escapement were the three key words that
came to Raúl Pagès’ mind when he created this new calibre. Technically,
the detent escapement is said to be “free” because the balance is not
subjected to any stress during its additional arc. The advantage of this
system, compared to the traditional Swiss lever escapement, is that the
escape wheel transmits its force directly to the balance wheel, giving
it a much better mechanical efficiency.
The movement: outstanding and entirely designed and produced in-house
A technical tour de force
The
Régulateur à détente RP1 movement is a major accomplishment in terms of
miniaturisation and horological craftsmanship. This new calibre houses
the rarest and most difficult escapement to make: the pivoted detent
escapement. Extremely rare in today’s world, Raúl Pagès has not only
designed this escapement himself but also hand-made it.
This
movement is therefore doubly “in-house”, since not only the ébauche but
also the regulating organ are made in-house. This escapement alone
defines the Régulateur à détente RP1 and gives it its letters of
nobility. The entire architecture of the calibre has been designed to
house it in the best possible way and to give it maximum emphasis. Thus,
Raúl Pagès has opted for a unique construction, positioning the seconds
wheel on the dial side of the main plate.
This judicious choice
confers an innovative and mysterious aspect to the movement, as the
kinematic chain appears to be interrupted. In addition, this technical
trick allows a masterful view of the escapement wheel and the perfect
positioning of the detent bridge. Equipped with a gold counterweight,
the pivoted detent has been optimised to be particularly well balanced
and thus meet modern chronometric requirements. Raúl Pagès has of course
also addressed and solved the major problem faced by the detent
escapement in a wristwatch: shock resistance.
The Régulateur à
détente RP1 is therefore equipped with a patented system that prevents
the escape wheel from leaving the rest position when the watch is
shaken.
To this end, the detent is equipped with a beak, which
cooperates with a third roller on the balance shaft. In the event of a
shock, the beak of the detent rests on the roller and thus prevents the
escapement from tripping. The low frequency (18,000 vibrations per hour)
of the large 13.30 mm-diameter balance wheel enables every detail of
the escapement’s operation to be appreciated. The balance wheel is
equipped with a Breguet balance spring with a Philips terminal curve,
which allows the balance spring to deploy concentrically.
Adjustment
weights in 18k gold allow the fine adjustment of the rate by modifying
the inertia of the balance wheel. To understand the extreme complexity
of this escapement, one need only examines the detent unlocking spring,
which is only 0.02 mm thick. What is more, this spring is entirely
formed by hand. Finally, its adjustment must be extremely meticulous
because even a slightly too high tension would immediately stop the
balance wheel.
Exceptional finishings
The architecture of the
movement and the finishings are not to be overlooked. Numerous drawings
were made in Raúl Pagès’ sketchbook and, like a sculptor, tests were
carried out “file in hand” before finding the ideal layout and shape of
the bridges. Special attention was also paid to the choice of materials
and finishes for each of the bridges and the main plate.
Both the
detent and balance wheel bridges are made of mirror-polished steel and
each has four inward angles. Their extreme openwork design provides an
exceptional view of the escapement. The other bridges are made of nickel
silver, frosted and bevelled. Each anglage is then entirely polished by
hand with gentian wood. This exceptional finishing enhances the inward
and outward angles while sublimating the play of light of the movement’s
curves.
All 171 elements of the watch enhance the traditional
know-how of fine watchmaking and show extreme care thanks to the
hand-made finish. Every component, visible or not, is bevelled,
polished, satin-finished or circular-grained by hand.
An example
of mastery in the craft, the entire gear train is countersunk, bevelled
and circled on both sides. The barrel has a circular-grained cover and a
snailed drum, while the interior is polished.
The finishing of
the ratchet and crown wheel is also breath-taking. Each tooth, each
screw sinking is bevelled and polished, contrasting beautifully with the
matte finish of the frosted surface. The steel click, mirror-polished
and hand-bevelled, is a reference to the most noble and complicated
historical pocket watches.
Such operations require prodigious expertise and know-how, particularly for the hand decoration of all the parts.
The dial: a technical and modernist composition
Passionate
about art history and architecture, Raúl Pagès pays tribute to the
modernist forms and colours sublimated by the famous architect Le
Corbusier. The dial features a unique architectural and chromatic
composition.
The minute divisions are cantilevered, bringing
lightness to the flange. Its black colour contrasts with the main plane
and allows a clear reading of the minutes. The seconds dial has an outer
diamond polished chamfer and is set back from the main plane. Its blue
colour is called cerulean blue 59 and represents, in the iconography of
Le Corbusier, the sky and the sea; it comes from his colour palette
Polychromie Architecturale created in 1959.
The hour ring is beautifully circled and has diamond polished edges, inside and out.
The
handmade hands are also beautifully rounded and polished, and the domed
fixing screws give the elegance of 19th century precision timepieces to
the dial.
This subtle play of depth and colour creates a refined
architecture full of subtlety, a constant found in previous Raúl Pagès
creations.
The case:
a harmonious design Perfectly
adjusted to the movement, the case reflects the refined and modern
aesthetic of Soberly Onyx, Raúl Pagès’ first timepiece. While
maintaining the sobriety that made it so successful, the case diameter
has been changed to 38.5 mm. Raúl explains it this way: “The dimensions
of the case follow the classic principles of architectural aesthetics.
It’s all about proportions. The relationship between the bezel, the lugs
and the dial allowed me to give this case perfect proportions”.
The
finish of the case is also brilliantly interpreted: The top of the
lugs, the bezel and the case back are polished, while the case middle is
satin-finished, giving the Régulateur à détenteRP1 case a contrast and
alternation of subtle and technical surface-finishes. The choice of the
sapphire crystal, known as ” glass box”, is also noteworthy, bringing
threedimensionality and sensuality to the touch of the piece.
The
lugs screwed to the case middle of this timepiece also refer to the
technicality of traditional marine chronometers, clearly making the
Régulateur à détente RP1 an unusual piece that perfectly combines
tradition and modernity
-----------
Profile of Raúl Pagès
Raúl Pagès, independent watchmaker, designer, artist
Raúl Pagès is an independent Swiss watchmaker (movement designer and restorer). In 2005 he obtained his diploma of watchmaker-restorer in antique watchmaking with honours, then in 2006 his diploma of designer in watch complications at the CIFOM in Le Locle. For more than 15 years he has been working on the restoration of horological masterpieces belonging to the most prestigious collections in the world. This technical and historical expertise allow him today to offer masterpieces that perfectly combine tradition and modernity.
In 2012, he decided to set up his own workshop in order to manufacture entirely by hand the 352 components of his now iconic " Tortue " automaton. Building on this experience, he embarked on the manufacture of a limited series of 10 pieces "Soberly Onyx", his first timepiece, in 2016. In 2017, he also became a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). As an accomplished musician, and a lover of art history and 20th century design history, Raúl Pagès explores the time measurement and its history as a multi-faceted artist. A rigorous and meticulous technician, he innovates and designs exceptional watchmaking mechanisms.
The regulator and the detent escapement, some historical references
The regulator appeared in the 18th century and is considered the emblem of all precision clocks. It marked the beginning of a new era in which time was measured to the nearest second. With its emblematic dial, which historically served as a reference and standard for setting the time of watches, the regulator is synonymous with exceptional timepieces in watchmaking history.
Presented to the Academy of Sciences in 1748 by Pierre Leroy, the detent escapement became essential when maritime nations competed for the construction of the most accurate mechanical time instrument possible, allowing the most reliable determination of the geographical position at sea. This is why this escapement is found in marine chronometers and precision pocket watches. ----------------------------------------------- TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model: Regulateur a detenteRP1
Display Sandblasted, diamond and nickel-plated dial Black nickel-plated minutes flange Diamond-polished, circular-grained and rhodium plated hours flange Seconds dial matt lacquered, cerulean blue 59 Hardened steel hands: chamfered, rounded-off and polished Domed and polished fixing screws Case Material: 316Lstainless steel Polished bezel, top of lugs and back Satin-finished case middle Bevelled and polished lug screws Dimensions: 38.5 mm x 10.2 mm (with sapphire crystal) Between lugs: 19mm Water resistance: 3atm - 30m - 100 ft Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, bezel and caseback Movement In-house movement with manual winding Escapement: pivoted detent with anti-tripping system Balance: variable inertia with four 18K gold weights Dimensions: 33.6 mm x 5.6 mm Power reserve: 47 hours Number of jewels: 17 Number of components: 171 Balance frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour / 2.5 Hz Component materials: nickel silver and steel Treatments: nickel plating and gold plating Finishing: haute horlogerie, hand-made Strap and buckle Supplied with two hand-stitched straps in black and beige leather with blue stitching, fitted with bars featuring a tool-free removal system. 316L stainless steel buckle with "Pagès" logo engraving
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