Wednesday, March 15, 2017

Urban Jurgensen – Reference 1140 PT Blue Edition























Urban Jürgensen – Reference 1140 PT Blue Platinium Limited Edition

JÜRGENSEN 1745 COLLECTION 
BASELWORLD 2017

An Urban Jürgensen timepiece has always been an example of uncompromising craftsmanship, a tradition the current owners of the company feel honour-bound to perpetuate. The Maison’s timepieces are not mass-produced in a nondescript industrial building but carefully honed in a traditional atelier. The creation of an Urban Jürgensen watch is not the product of expedience, but instead, the continued pursuit of excellence deploying the traditional highly specialised forms of craftsmanship reflecting the timeless traditions of the company.

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At Urban Jürgensen there is a belief that perfection is seldom the product of haste. Machinery may offer capacity, but hand craftsmanship provides individuality and lasting joy. While traditional materials ensure longevity, skilled hands are required to deftly manipulate tools to create horological objects of beauty.

Completely in accord with the extraordinary history and high level of watch making of Urban Jϋrgensen, we are pleased to present our new limited edition of 30 pieces - 1140 PT L Blue for 2017. At first glance, the 1140 PT L Blue exhibits a simplicity that conceals the complexity of its creation. The construction method and craftsmanship used are deliberately intended to appeal to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. While some design elements and finishing are clear to see, others are virtually hidden from view. This new model complements the Jurgensen 1745 collection as a blend of our most precious examples of craftsmanship, Urban Jurgensen Hands, Guilloche and white gold appliques with an in-house P4 movement.

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The 40mm classic case design used in this reference, has a round form, teardrop shaped lugs and stepped bezel combined with exquisitely finished dials and hands.

Urban Jürgensen hands, are very much hand-made. They comprise a significant number of components that are individually honed, assembled and finished. This naturally implies numerous hours of highly skilled workmanship and are a key feature of Urban Jürgensen timepieces. The white gold arms of Urban Jürgensen hands are cut from solid white gold and manually finished to ensure a perfect shape and fit. Numerous hours of diligent polishing with increasingly fine-grained diamond paper are followed by mirror polishing using secret types of polishing paste applied using a variety of wooden pegs specially shaped for the task. Its asymmetrical design, gently tapered towards the tip, ensures a unique elegance. This unwavering commitment to excellence is further exemplified at the very centre of the dial, in the precision-turned and mirror-polished solid gold hand pipes (also known as bushes), around which the arms are riveted to ensure a perfect fit.

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Urban Jürgensen are considered masters of the art of the hand finished guilloche dials. In the new model, it can be appreciated in the vast attention to detail in the dial layout and pattern selections Grains d’orges and Guilloché Damier. Each dial requires up to 700 operations and takes two full days of hand work to complete on a guilloche lathe. After engine-turning, the dial is repeatedly brought to Rose heat and treated with acid to produce the unique warm colour by developing a fine layer of pure silver on the surface finally the dial is imbued with the proprietary Urban Jurgensen blue.

The White Gold Urban Jürgensen Arabic numeral appliques are inspired by the hand painted enamel and gran feu dials of our historic pocket watches – an inspiration that imparts almost impossible challenges in crafting them in solid gold. Transferring the long extremely thin lines painted in a “1” or a “2”, or the small “+” on a “4”, is a challenge very few master today. It is simply very difficult and delicate work.

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The Urban Jürgensen numerals cannot be stamped out. They are cut in several cutting processes from a solid gold sheet to arrive at the final shape, followed by an extremely delicate polishing process finished by hand to arrive at the fine “bombé” pillow shaped profile. And because they are so fine in the details, no two sets on two dials are identical.

Hand-wound, hand-fitted and hand-made: hands at Urban Jürgensen indeed not only indicate time but in 2017 continue to stir the same excitement, approval and wonder among watchmakers and connoisseurs alike as they have for over 240 years.

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About Urban Jürgensen

Our story started in 1745 with the birth in Copenhagen of Jürgen Jürgensen, founder of the watchmaking dynasty that still bears his name. Jürgen’s son, Urban Jürgensen (1776 - 1830), quickly followed in his father’s footsteps. After completing his apprenticeship at such extraordinary watchmakers as Breguet in Paris and Arnold in England, Urban steered the Jürgensen brand to new heights. Urban’s two sons, Jules-Frederik and Louis Urban, then continued the family tradition. Jules studied in Switzerland and moved to Le Locle, while his brother Louis remained in charge of the factory in Copenhagen, giving the company roots in both countries that have been maintained ever since. The innovation and excellence of Jürgensen’s output exerted a tremendous influence on the watchmaking industry of Le Locle and, indeed, the entire Canton of Neuchatel, introducing the latest techniques from around the world. Of course, none of this happened by accident; rather, it has been the product of centuries of commitment and dedication to the arts.

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Technical Specifications

Ref. 1140 Blue Platinum

MOVEMENT
Urban Jürgensen Movement P4
Swiss Lever Escapement
Manual winding                 
Hours, minutes, small seconds    
Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in five (5) positions
Stop seconds     
Twin barrels     
Autonomy 72 hours     
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)    
Twenty-three (23) jewels    
Diameter 32.00 mm     
Thickness 5.20 mm      
CASE     
Platinum 40 mm
Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel
Individually soldered teardrop lugs
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM
DIAL
Circular brushed chapter ring
Hand finished guilloché d ial on one piece solid silver
Urban Jürgensen domed platinum Arabic numerals Blue coloured Silver dial  
HANDS
Hand made solid White Gold.
Diamond polished eye in White Gold.    
BUCKLE
Delivered exclusively with solid platinum folding buckle and clasp.        
STRAP
Alligator skin
Length 115/75mm, width 20/16. Custom made sizes available  on request.      
Semi-matt blue. Other colours are available on request.

LIMITED EDITION30 PIECES

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 OFFICE
Urban Jürgensen. 
Chemin Creux 18. 2503 Biel/Bienne.
Switzerland.
Tel: +41-32 365 1526.
Fax: +41-32 365 2266.
info@urbanjurgensen.com
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www.UrbanJurgensen.com

F.P.Journe – Vagabondage III Limited Edition

















F.P.JourneVagabondage III Series Limited Edition


VAGABONDAGE III
WORLD PREMIERE: DIGITAL JUMPING SECONDS


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The Third Edition of the Vagabondage Trilogy


F.P. Journe presents the third and last edition of the Vagabondage Series, “Vagabondage III”, produced in a limited series of 69 pieces in Platinum and 68 pieces in 18 K red Gold. F.P. Journe is the only Manufacture to design and produce a specific calibre for a series limited to only 137 pieces.

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Let’s recall the events leading up to the creation of the Vagabondage, which is the quintessence of anti-marketing. In 2004, François-Paul Journe designed 3 unprecedented watches with a flat Tortue case (patented model), a digital time display and a dial without signature, for the 30 th anniversary of Antiquorum.

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Those 3 watches, one in white Gold, one in yellow Gold, and one in rose Gold, with brass movements, were sold at a charity auction for the benefit of the ICM, research institute for brain and spinal cord diseases (www.icm-institute.org). The watches captured the interest of the public, and sold for three times the estimate

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VI - Digital Hours

In the wake of the resounding success of that auction, F.P. Journe launched in 2006 the Vagabondage I Series. The name Vagabondage comes from the fact that the time is indicated by a wandering digital display; the design itself was “vagabond” in that it was created by François-Paul Journe as a satellite creation, in addition to his regular collections. This limited series with a flat Tortue ® case differs from the round cases generally favoured by the brand. It was produced in a series of 69 pieces in Platinum and 10 pieces in Platinum set with baguette diamonds, with a manually wound 18 K rose Gold movement. Even without promotion or publicity, clients went wild. They snapped them up, and the Vagabondage legend was born.

VII - Digital Jumping Hours and Minutes

The second Vagabondage edition was created in 2010. 69 pieces in Platinum, 68 pieces in red Gold and 10 pieces in Platinum with baguette diamonds are produced. It has a manually wound movement with digital display, but also features small seconds at 6h and a power reserve display at 12h. The smoked sapphire crystal dial, without the F.P. Journe signature, reveals the 18 ct. rose gold movement. F.P. Journe developed a specific barrel and a remontoir d’égalité, providing better energy management for the instantaneous jump of the minutes and hours.

VIII - Digital Jumping Hours and Seconds

Collectors have been eagerly awaiting the launch of the Vagabondage III Series. This third edition retains the flat Tortue ® case, the same size as the Vagabondage II, with a manually wound movement with a remontoir d’égalité that advances the time train each second.

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The inner smoked sapphire dial, framed by a screwed “appliqué” outer dial, still without the F.P. Journe signature, reveals the 18 K rose Gold movement. A window at 10h displays the digital hour indications; another at 6h indicates the digital seconds; both are framed in white. The central minutes are indicated by a white hand, while the power reserve at 1h features a blued steel hand.

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The 3 digital time displays have now been created, making the trilogy complete. Owners of the Vagabondage I and II will be given priority to acquire the watch with the identical limited series number. Collectors may thus complete their own trilogy and possess a part of F.P. Journe’s horological history.

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The Vagabondage III Series will be available in F.P. Journe Boutiques and Espaces, as well as authorised retailers.

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Technical specifications

Model: Vagabondage III Limited Edition

Movement
Manufactured Calibre 1514
Manual winding
18 K rose Gold
Jewels: 32
Movement without dial: 249
Dimensions of the Movement
Overall dimensions: 29.3 x 28.2 mm
Casing-up dimensions: 29.3 x 28.2 mm
Overall height: 5.88 mm
Height of winding system: 2.96 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S 0.90 mm
Balance
Balance Four inertia weights
Flat Anachron microflamed spring
Mobile stud holders
Free sprung
Nivatronic laser-welded to collet
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21,600 v / h, (3Hz)
Inertia: 10.10 mg*cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0h dial up: > 260°
24h dial up: > 260°
Main characteristics
1 minute constant force device, patented No EP 1528443
Escapement with 15 tooth escape wheel
Barrel with double spring
Digital hours and seconds indication
Minute indication by central hand
2 position crown
Time adjustment via crown in position 2 and both ways
Second at 6h
Power reserve at 1h
Decoration
High quality
Partly circular grained base plate
Geneva waves on bridges
Polished screw heads, chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Case

  • Platinum PT 950
  • Red Gold 18K
Flat Tortue shape ® : 45.2 mm x 37.6 mm
Height: 7.84 mm
Dial
Smoked sapphire

Strap:
Hand-stitched black leather strap
Buckle: deployant clasp

Limited Series
Platinum PT 950: 69 pieces

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Red Gold 18K: 68 pieces

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Number of parts

Jewels: 32
Movement without dial: 249
Cased-up on leather strap: 281

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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com