Friday, February 10, 2012

GRIEB & BENZINGER - BLUE OCEAN PLATINUM














































The BLUE OCEAN is a skeletonized monopusher chronograph based on a column wheel chronograph movement from 1926 housed in solid platinum with a guilloché platinum crown button. At 47 mm in diameter, this watch is a design statement on the wrist and, as usual, an absolutely unique piece in which countless hours have been invested in restoration, hand-skeletonization, hand-engraving, and guilloché in order to create this masterpiece of time. In typical GRIEB & BENZINGER manner, the historical movement within this oeuvre has been awakened to enjoy a new life.

The company’s typical blue platinum coating of the base plate has also found its way into this new unique piece. The base plate was first hand-skeletonized to its barest minimum and the case back hand-guilloché before being coated with the blue platinum developed by GRIEB & BENZINGER. Every single bridge and cock was hand guilloché, hand-engraved and rhodium or rose gold-plated. Even the wheels were guilloché, and the heads of all 34 steel screws were polished by hand and classically tempered a cornflower blue over an open flame.


















The 26-jewel movement is outfitted with a Breguet compensation screw balance with blued hairspring.

A skeletonized dial with a rare Breguet frosted finish and overlapping displays in the characteristic GRIEB & BENZINGER style unequivocally shows the skeletonized movement and the blue platinum-coated base plate, another signature element of GRIEB & BENZINGER. Rings that seem to flow into one another, yet simultaneously display their functions in clearly defined zones, dominate the dial – which additionally shows the hours and minutes on an inner dial ring in addition to the separate displays for seconds and 30-minute totalizer at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively and the stop-seconds of the chronograph on a scale just inside the bezel.

www.Grieb-benzinger.com 

MB&F - Legacy Machine No. 1















MB&F - Legacy Machine No. 1


Max Büsser & Friends is launching a new line of watches called Legacy Machines. Büsser says they will be designed as if MB&F existed 100 years ago. Legacy Machine No. 1 combines classic elements like a round case and a superlatively finished movement with MB&F’s trademark over-the-top horological creativity (or at least an over-the-top balance wheel). Find several images, wallpaper, pricing, technical specifications, and a link to the movie inside. 


With its monumental central balance, completely independent dual time displays and three-dimensional power reserve indicator, Legacy Machine N°1 (LM1) pays tribute to the great innovators of traditional watchmaking, yet it is unmistakeably an MB&F Machine. At 44x16mm, the watch will fit a broader range of collectors.







Max Büsser says Legacy Machine N°1 was conceived when he asked himself “What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967?” The answer? He would still want to create wild, three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but there would have been no Star Wars or fighter jets to inspire him. Instead, he would have looked to pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne. “What might my 1911 machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional: Legacy Machine N°1 was my answer.”
Legacy Machine N°1′s in-house movement reflects the talent of its creators. Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode (winners of the Best Watchmaker Prize at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) started with a blank sheet, while acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen took responsibility for the aesthetic design and for ensuring respect for tradition and fine finishing. The movement of Legacy Machine N°1 bears the names of both creators, and is the first caliber other than Voutilainen’s own to bear his name.

 Most watches displaying two time zones allow only the hours to be set. The twin displays of Legacy Machine N°1 are fully independent, so each display can be set to show any time. Büsser says this has not been done before.


The swooping, curving bridge supporting the massive balance wheel was inspired by the Eiffel Tower.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

The Legacy Machine No. 1 is available in 18k white gold or 18k rose gold, and it is priced at $92,000.
Click here to view the 4:45 Legacy Machine No. 1 film.
Technical specifications appear below.
Engine
Three-dimensional horological movement developed for MB&F by Chronode and created by Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 279
Number of jewels: 23
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings
Functions
Hours and minutes; completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials; unique vertical power reserve
Left crown at 8 o’clock for setting time of left dial; right crown at 4 o’clock for setting time of right dial and winding
Case
Available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold
Dimensions: 44mm wide x 16mm high
Number of components: 65
Sapphire crystals:
High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides; sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on single side
Strap & Buckle
Black or brown hand-stitched alligator strap with gold tang buckle to match case
“Friends” responsible for Legacy Machine No. 1
Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
Product design: Eric Giroud / Eric Giroud Design Studio
Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
Movement development: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode
Movement design and finish specifications: Kari Voutilainen

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www.MBandF.com

Hublot - F1 King Power



Часы Hublot F1 King Power Ceramic посвящены Гран-При по Формуле-1 в Китае. Официально новая модель часов была представлена генеральным директором бренда и китайской знаменитостью Хан Хан (Han Han, блоггер номер 1 в Китае, чьи записи даже переводят на другие языки) в рамках специально организованной пресс-конференции.
Часы выполнены в керамическом корпусе и абсолютно безопасны для людей, страдающих от аллергии. Корпус из керамики позволяет избежать ржавчины или изменения цвета часов во временем.
Красная полоска-строчка на ремешке часов прекрасно гармонирует с красным оформлением элементов циферблата (стрелок и отметок). Ремешок выполнен из чёрного каучука и номекса, а также специального синтетического волокна от компании DuPont. Часы будут выпущены ограниченной серией из всего 500 экземпляров.


http://www.hublot.com 

HYT - H1 Hydro Mechanics



The H1 by HYT is what happens when Haute Horlogerie meets fluid mechanics. As one of the two reservoirs at 6 o'clock compresses, the other expands, and vice versa, to push the fluids they contain through the tube. As the hours pass, the luminescent liquid advances. The half-moon meniscus marks the point where the two fluids meet to indicate the hour. At 6 pm, it returns to its initial position in a retrograde movement. A 5 mm sapphire crystal, sculpted from a single block, accentuates the three-dimensional architecture. The upper part of the watch is a destructured geometry of superpositions and reliefs. The small seconds counter which overlaps the minute regulator in the centre bears a striking resemblance to a waterwheel. The 65-hour power reserve is shown at 2.30, divided into three arcs of a circle.

H1: Hydro Mechanics
We knew about clepsydras or water clocks. The oldest found thus far dates back to the age of the pharaohs. It took 3400 years to overcome the force of gravity and indicate the time with a liquid in a mechanical wristwatch. Many have dreamt of it – HYT has done it.
The principle
An encounter between Fine Watchmaking and fluid mechanics. One might say a utopia. Shattering all certainties, steamrollering conformity, the idea that led to the H1 was simple and consisted of two flexible reservoirs fixed to each end of a capillary. In one was an aqueous liquid filled with fluorescein, and in the other, a transparent viscous liquid. To keep them separate: the repulsive force of the molecules in each liquid, with a meniscus to mark the boundary between the two.

The two reservoirs at 06:00. While the first compresses, the second expands, and the other way round, resulting in the movement of the liquid in the capillary. As the hours go by, the fluorescent liquid advances. The meniscus, in the shape of a half moon, marks the breaking point with the other fluid in the tube, indicating the time. At 18:00, the fluorescent liquid comes back to its original position, going backwards. The secret that gets the reservoirs going? Two bellows made of a highly resistant, flexible electro-deposited alloy, each driven by a piston. And this is where watchmaking comes in to activate the system.
A mechanical movement to activate the hydro system
Orchestrated by Bruno Moutarlier, alongside Jean-François Mojon and his Chronode SA team, a mechanical movement is situated in the upper part of the watch, and propels a cam, which pushes the piston and activates the bellows.

The main challenge lay in finding an interface between the mechanical movement and the hydro system in a closed, waterproof circuit – a task further complicated by the limited space available to house them both. They had to be assembled separately to keep them independent, and then made to operate simultaneously. This is a highly delicate modular integration, which involves other constraints, such as the installation of the dial in two parts, through the sides.     
From concept to reality:

The convergence of two worlds with a common aim


While the basic idea is simple, realising it is highly complex. Led by Bruno Moutarlier, two teams worked together. On the watchmaking front were Jean-François Mojon and his supporting team at Chronode. Working on the fluid operation was Preciflex, the patent registration company created by the founders of HYT – Patrick Berdoz, Lucien Vouillamoz and Emmanuel Savioz. Supporting Preciflex was Helbling Technik, from the medical world, where fluid motion is used in certain treatments. An incredible human adventure that propelled two worlds in principle at odds with each other towards a new joint era – that in which a unique technology would rock not only watchmaking but also medtech, because the pump system would lead the way for brand-new applications in that field.


Watchmaking exploration bordering on nanotechnology

Step 1: develop liquids that obey a set of watchmaking specifications. Colour, homogenous texture, resistant to vibrations, shocks and temperature changes, no alteration in the long term, foolproof water resistance. Needs that require the development of a number of innovations. Up till now, seven patents have been registered for the technology and one for the design. This was a steep plunge into the unknown, which led to technical watchmaking feats bordering on nanotechnologies.


Mastering the energy requirements

Hydraulic force means pressure. When the fluorescein-loaded liquid has done a complete round and gets to 06:00 – 18:00, the issuing pump compresses, while the bellows receiver expands, generating resistance and consequently an increased energy requirement. To fix this, Preciflex developed revolutionary bellows made from an extremely fine alloy and which are highly supple and resistant. They are in fact inspired by the sensors used by NASA and their design had to be adapted to watchmaking requirements. Their specially researched shape allows for the reduction of energy required for their compression, absorbs shocks and ensures rock solid waterproofing.


Metaphysics of fluids

During the entire development process, alongside the engineering, the amounts of liquid were the focus of great attention. Every microlitre counts, and the total volume in the closed circuit is extremely precise, as the system has to have a nanotechnology-worthy level of water resistance. Due to the unusual link between the crown and the liquid, a special time-setting system was designed in order to avoid the liquid moving around too fast and damaging the meniscus.
An emotional accelerator
The taut, aggressive design by Sébastien Perret dictates the testosterone-laden nature of the H1. A completely non-standard construction. Three-dimensional architecture viewed just as well from the front as from the side or three-quarters through a sculptural 5mm sapphire crystal carved from the block, itself topped by a dome at 6 o’clock imposing its own rules. Particles of fluorescein spring from it, like sparks flying off the passing hours. The industrious pistons and bellows converge toward it. The apparently unstructured upper part of the watch dictates a geometric design composed of strata and reliefs. In the centre sits the minute regulator, overlapped by a spectacular small seconds display resembling a water wheel. At 02.30, a 65-hour power-reserve hand indicates the remaining energy available across three arcs of a circle. And meanwhile, the fluids follow their course around the case. This “monster” measuring 48.8 mm in diameter and 17.9 mm thick nonetheless sits impressively lightly and well on the wrist. The notches in its caseband visually extend the applied baignoire-type hour-markers, while the crown dovetails at 02:30, as is thrust against the case by its sturdy crown guard.

http://www.hytwatches.com