Sunday, January 1, 2023

RGM Watch Co. – 222-RR Type 1 Classic Montgomery

RGM Watch Co.222-RR Type 1 Classic Montgomery (Marginal Minute Dial) 30th Anniversary

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The second watch release of RGM’s 30th Anniversary year.
RGM adds another Railroad dial to the Model 222-RR series

Inspired by America's Great Railroad Watches from the Past

The Model 222-RR is a modern wristwatch with a vintage heart, featuring a Hamilton 10-sized pocket watch movement. RGM was the first to use these wonderful classic movements in a wristwatch.  Our vintage Hamilton movements are rebuilt using parts that are in optimum condition, including a new mainspring made for this movement. 

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We flat polish the steel parts by hand on a tin block to better-than-original condition. The entire process of careful reassembly to precise adjustment of the movement is managed by one watchmaker.

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 The grade 921 movement has 21 jewels and was made in large quantities; the grade 923 has 23 jewels and is rare, with less than 4,000 movements manufactured.

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The Grand Feu Real Enamel dial is modeled after American railroad watches from the past. The blued-steel hands remain true to the classic form and the 1:30 crown position pays homage to early 20th century timepieces. It’s also very natural to read the time when worn on the left wrist.

New Dial Version - Type I - (Classic) 
MONTGOMERY MARGINAL MINUTE STYLE DIAL

Henry S. Montgomery was the General Watch & Clock Inspector of the AT&SF Railroad from 1896 to 1923. Mr. Montgomery patented his first marginal minute safety dial design Type I around 1906. This is the design that has inspired the new version of RGM’s Model 222-RR watch.

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A Montgomery dial displays minutes 1-60 along the outer edge, with every fifth number in red. Some collectors say that a "true" Montgomery dial must have an hour number 6 visible inside the seconds’ register. Dials approved for use on the railroads needed to be functional and readable, even under adverse conditions. Most American watch companies used Montgomery dials on many of their railroad-grade watches.

Why is the crown at the 1:30 position?

During the Transitional Period from the early 1900s into the 1920s, some wristwatches appeared with the winding crown in this less common position on the wristwatch case. 

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Some watch companies converted movements and dials that were originally designed for a pocket or pendant watch into a wristwatch by making the crown position on the wristwatch case at the 1:30 or 2:00 O’clock.

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Celebrating the unique look of those early wristwatches is the inspiration behind the RGM Model 222-RR. It also keeps the orientation of the sub-second in line with the 12 O’clock position thus preserving the original design of the railroad-style dial. And it’s just fun!

Grand Feu (French for “Great Fire”) Enamel Dial

Creating an enamel watch dial is a high-risk art. Enameling is a technique in which colored powdered glass is applied to a metal plate. 

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The surface is then heated to a temperature high enough to cause the powdered glass to melt and form a new surface. The Grand Feu technique ups the stakes. It involves meticulously coating a watch dial with successive layers of enamel.

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Once a layer is ready, the dial is heated at extremely high temperatures, ranging from 1472-1652°F (800-900°C). The repeated baking of each individual layer ensures a uniquely crisp aesthetic while permanently setting the enamel. Using high heat to create these beautiful dials also poses a risk. Each time it is re-fired, the danger of cracking, melting, or burning increases. The numerals and track are also baked into the surface. With great risk comes great reward: the appearance of a real glass enamel dial is unmistakable.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:   222-RR - Type 1 Classic Montgomery

Reference: Model 222-RR 

Movement
10 Size Vintage USA made Hamilton grade 921 or 923, manual winding
21 or 23 jewels
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Power Reserve: 42-45 hours
Rhodium
Circular Demaskeening
Motor-Barrel
Anglage
Functions
Hour / Minute / Second
Case
Stainless steel with the crown position at 1:30
Diameter: 41.0mm
Height: 12.0mm
Lug Width: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front and back
Water-resistant to 5-ATM
Weight: 3.1 oz.
Dial
Glass Enamel, Grand Feu (“Great Fire”)
Hands: Blued-Steel Railroad style
Strap
Thick Leather with contrast stitching


🔴 Price  

  • $ 6450 with the 921 movement
  • $ 7950 with the 923 movement

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Contact: Roland G. Murphy
RGM Watch Company
Tel.  717.653.9799
sales@rgmwatches.com
www.rgmwatches.com
  RGM Watch Co. America's Premier Watchmaker
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