Thursday, May 3, 2012

Raymond Weil - Nabucco Cuore Vivo Chronograph


Raymond Weil - Nabucco Cuore Vivo Chronograph

Nabucco, the famous opera by Giuseppe Verdi, may end after the fourth act, but RAYMOND WEIL is holding the note for the fifth consecutive year, and again, adding a new model for its exceptional collection Nabucco. After exploring the richness of rose gold with the Nabucco Cuore Caldo, the depth of the deep black with Rivoluzione Nabucco, the lightness of titanium with the Nabucco Va Pensiero, and finally the identity of a more classic Converse with Nabucco. The Swiss brand reveals the heart of a prestigious watch the new Nabucco Cuore Vivo.In 2012, Nabucco has launched an elegant and modern collection, with a distinctive design and stately proportions. Now open your heart and offers a glimpse of its mysteries for lovers of fine mechanics and lyrical lines.

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Thanks to an adaptation to the movement, the display of the Nabucco Cuore Live opens at 10 am, allowing light to filter the whole. This delicate assembly, the heart of the clock, is protected by a striking case 46 mm diameter made of titanium and one water-resistant steel which supports a depth of 200 m.  

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Highlighted by titanium panel tachometer, the opaline black dial is embellished with a timekeeper central motif of chess, luminescent indexes and numerals 12. Three silver counters complete the measuring instrument: 3 hours (30 minutes against), at 6 hours (12 hours-counter) and 9 hours (small seconds). Finally, its rubber strap alligator style, fully waterproof, it combines comfort, softness and strength.

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The ultimate in elegance, the Nabucco Cuore Vivo, limited to 400 pieces, comes in a presentation box to match your image. The lid with a silver color, with segments of chess partly shows the interior of the box and, when open, allows light to penetrate its structure and enhance the timer.Power and robustness, transparency and light: the Nabucco Cuore Vivo makes our hearts beat to the rhythm of time passing.
 Ref. 7830 TIR 00207

The case, in matte titanium and polished stainless steel, measures 46mm x 15.8mm. It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and is water resistant to 200 meters.

Movement is the Swiss automatic caliber RW5400 (base ETA Valjoux 7753
with 29 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 46 hours. 
Visible balance and escapement wheels.

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MB&F - MoonMachine
















MB&F - MoonMachine NEW

MoonMachin by Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is both the first of the MB&F Performance Art pieces by a watchmaker and the first to endow a Machine with a new complication. With MoonMachin, Stepan has taken a specially configured HM3 Frog and transformed it with his iconic moon-face moon-phase indicator set in a scintillating firmament of northern stars.

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The MOON: Around 4.5 billion years ago when the young Earth was still forming, Theia, a proto-planet the size of Mars, is thought to have struck our planet and disintegrated in a ‘Giant Impact’. Some of the debris was attracted by the Earth’s gravity and the rest – consisting of material from both Earth and Theia – went into orbit around the Earth. Within 12 months this orbiting debris coalesced to form the Moon.


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Over the next 4.4 billion years, the Earth’s tilt in relation to the sun was stabilised by the gravitational pull of the Moon, which provided regular relatively mild seasons over much of the planet’s surface – ideal conditions for life to form and evolve.

Without that cataclysmic event, we would not be here. You might say we are all Children of the Moon.






























 And no sooner did modern man start walking the earth than he stared up at the night sky in wonder and awe at the biggest and brightest orb in the heavens. Perhaps none more so than the inhabitants of Finland – including Stepan Sarpaneva – because the less romantic and less well-known counterpoise to the summertime Land of the Midnight Sun are extremely long nights in winter, which gives the population more time than most to study the moon and stars.

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 MOONMACHINE:
While considerably less cataclysmic than the formation of our Moon, MOONMACHINE was also forged from the creative collision of two worlds: MB&F's HM3 Frog and independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva.

Before launching his own brand Sarpaneva Watches in 2003, Stepan Sarpaneva worked with some of the most prestigious Swiss brands including Piaget, Parmigiani – where he worked alongside Kari Voutilainen – Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret.

"Stepan has an incredible sense of design and a real sense of detail. His work and everything he surrounds himself with is extremely coherent." Maximilian Büsser

Stepan Sarpaneva: Stepan’s three signature themes are all celestial: his very distinctive moon face; the northern stars and constellations; and the crenellated form of his Korona case – the korona/corona is the plasma atmosphere of the Sun – and all three have been incorporated in MOONMACHINE. Sarpaneva's two moon faces indicate the phase of the moon through a Korona shaped aperture, while the mystery winding rotor is actually a blued 22k gold disc with laser-pierced stars forming stars and constellations visible in the northern sky.

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 “The visible movement at the top of HM3 Frog added a technical aspect that provided a serious counterpoint to the playfulness of the bulging frog-eyed indications. In covering the movement, the moon phase and sky hides this and makes the timepiece more poetic. With MOONMACHINE, HM3 is transformed into a fairy tale. Stepan Sarpaneva

HM3 Frog: The Frog was chosen as the MOONMACHINE platform because the large visible movement opening in the dial side provides space for the watchmaker to play and the bulbous indication domes of the Frog are reminiscent of how science fiction buffs have long imagined habitable domes on the Moon. The Frog differs substantially from HM3 in that it is the aluminium domes that rotate under the sapphire crystals in the Frog, whereas it is the hour and minute hands that rotate around their respective stationary cones on HM3. And this is no ordinary HM3 Frog – if such a thing can be said to exist – the domes of the MOONMACHINE are unique in that they are perpendicular, rather than parallel, to the wrist.

Rotating the large indicator domes posed a number of technical challenges. The domes are machined from solid aluminium to a paper-thin wall thickness of just 0.28 mm to reduce energy requirements to an absolute minimum. The semi-spherical sapphire crystal domes have to be meticulously machined and polished as the slightest imperfection might create disconcerting magnification effects. And the Frog's unusual method of indicating time necessitated the development of a new gear train for the HM3 engine as the aluminium hour dome of the Frog rotates in 12 hours compared to the 24-hour revolution of the HM3 hour hand.

MOONMACHINE may portray the time in a playful manner, but there is nothing but serious and meticulous attention to detail and care regarding the fine hand-finishing of the high-tuned engine purring within.

Northern Sky Rotor: The multi-layered northern sky rotor adds a stunning background to the twin hand-finished moon faces. It also both disguises the potentially distracting HM3 gold winding rotor and makes use of its motion to add vivacity to the moving stars. The stars are laser-pierced allowing light to reflect from the movement underneath and are not simply placed at random: They form the seven brightest stars in Ursa Major, more commonly known as the Big Dipper/Big Plough/Big Bear, plus the seven brightest stars of Ursa Minor, more commonly known as the Little Dipper/Little Bear, which includes Polaris, the North star.

And in a detail watchmakers will appreciate, one of the stars is strategically positioned to allow access for a servicing tool.

The turning star-filled night sky of the rotor not only brings metaphoric life to the MOONMACHINE, but also literally provides life as it generates the power for both the functioning of the moon complication and the movement. The iconic MB&F battle-axe sits in pride-of-place between the two moon faces at the axis of the rotor.

"With MOONMACHINE, HM3 doesn't just look like it travels through space, it is now a part of space. It becomes a participant not just an observer." Stepan Sarpaneva.

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While a man’s face formed by craters on the Moon’s surface is the result of over-active imaginations, Stepan Sarpaneva has based MOONMACHINE’s moon faces on his own. It doesn’t get much more personal than that!

MOONMACHINE is available in three limited editions of 18 pieces each: titanium case with white gold moon faces in a light blue sky, black titanium case with white gold moon faces in a dark blue sky and red gold case with red gold moon faces in an anthracite sky.

The Moon: 
Technical Specifications
While other planets have more moons – Jupiter has 62 – and larger moons – Saturn’s moon Titan is twice the size of ours – the Earth’s moon is unique in our solar system because at ¼ the size of Earth, it is very large in relation to its planet, which is why it is so influential.
Average distance from Earth: 390,000km
Travelling time from Earth: three days
Gravity: 1/6th Earth gravity
Length of lunar day: 27.3 Earth days
The moon does not rotate in relation to the Earth
Influences on Earth: Causes two tidal cycles per day; often provides light at night; lunar cycle was one of the very first units of time; its gravity attracts many meteors and stops them hitting Earth; stabilises the tilt of the Earth in relation to the sun.

MOONMACHINE
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Technical Specifications

MOONMACHINE is based on a specially configured HM3 Frog and the moon complication was imagined, designed and created by Stepan Sarpaneva. It is available in three limited editions of 18 pieces each.
Movement
Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor;
Powered by a Girard-Perregaux base, modified by Stepan Sarpaneva
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph.
PVD coated and star-pieced 22k gold automatic winding rotor
Hour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to rotating domes.
Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)
Number of components: 319
Functions
Hour on one dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours)
Minutes on second dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes)
Moon phase displayed by dual moons rotating under a Korona ring
Case
Natural titanium case, white gold moon faces, light blue sky, limited edition of 18 pieces Black titanium case, white gold moon faces, dark blue sky, limited edition of 18 pieces
Red gold case, red gold moon faces, anthracite sky, limited edition of 18 pieces
Indication domes configured perpendicular to wrist.
Screwed-down crown
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 19mm
Number of case components: 55
Sapphire crystals:
Domes and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
Dials:
Rotating aluminium domes – 0.58g,
Strap & Buckle:
Black hand-stitched alligator with 18K gold & titanium custom designed deployment buckle

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www.Mb&f.com 

JAQUET DROZ - SW Tourbillon

JAQUET DROZ - Grande Seconde SW Tourbillon NEW


THE SPORTS WATCH (SW) LINE BY JAQUET DROZ

Sporting values may be seen as the latest thing, but Jaquet Droz adopted them from the start. Today, these values are integral to the brand's passion for measuring each moment of passing time and creating fabulous instruments to do it with. Its sports watch (SW) line is composed of timepieces with which house innovation is definitely... in time. Fine materials join forces with natural rubber and Super-LumiNova to produce a striking visual effect, backed by various exciting surprises on the technology front.







































GRANDE SECONDE SW STEEL-RUBBER

When a great classic combines the excellence of traditional watchmaking with the exploits of modern-day technology, it is only natural to expect perfection.

Setting out to develop the Grande Seconde SW Steel-Rubber, Jaquet Droz mobilized the best that its craftsmanship and philosophy had to offer. Its artisans drew inspiration from the brand's unique heritage and history to produce a futuristic model using the revolutionary design of the Grande Seconde and cutting-edge materials. The goal was to create a remarkable, sleek model featuring marvels of innovation... Mission accomplished!








































The perfect lines of this dial are obtained in a complex process performed on a single solid block of steel, hollowed to lower the surface level. The elegant balance of the fine-brushed figure eight, the fineness of its spine and the red Super-LumiNova coating on hands and indicators – the red accentuates the depth of the black – all contribute to a refined interplay of volumes, colors and reflections of light. Also hollowed, the plates discreetly stress the dominance of rounded contours. An impression of comfort also prevails: since the bracelet is made of steel – a first for Jaquet Droz – and clad in supple natural rubber, the Grande Seconde SW Steel-Rubber feels surprisingly light and unexpectedly warm. For those who love truly fine watches, this timepiece represents the ultimate in luxury for everyday wear. 


TOURBILLON

In 2011, Jaquet Droz surprised the world of watchmaking by incorporating the tourbillon, a complication that frees the mechanical watch from the effects of gravity, into the brand's iconic Grande Seconde model, whose dial design takes inspiration from a house leitmotif: the number eight.

Today, Jaquet Droz has decided to reinvent this fusion: for the first time, it will be including one of watchmaking's most challenging complications in its line of sports watches (SW), the first of which was presented in 2008.

To meet the challenge, the master artisans from La Chaux-de-Fonds pushed back the limits of watchmaking mechanics. Inserted at the top of the dial, the tourbillon reveals the extraordinary complexity of its mechanism. The upper bridge has been changed to perform the function of the seconds hand, whose elegant profile harmonizes with the sporty look of the watch.

Positioned opposite, the hours and minutes counter uses classical Roman numerals, giving them, as well as the hands, a coat of white Super-LumiNova to set up a contrast with the black rubber treatment of the dial. Set horizontally, the plates, carefully secured with screws, convey the perfect graphic balance and chromatic harmony of the Tourbillon. This visual and technical performance comes in a generously sized 45 mm case whose look of power is highlighted by the precious shimmer of red gold and the fine fluting on the bezel. The alligator strap – used for the first time for a sports watch – brings its own special gleam to this exceptional timepiece.

The Tourbillon expresses the love of sports in perfect luxury.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:
Reference J030033240
Movement: Jaquet Droz 25JD-S

self-winding tourbillon movement, simple barrel, 
18-carat white gold oscillating weight with black PVD finish
Indications: Hours and minutes at 6 o'clock
Tourbillon frame and seconds bridge with white Super-Luminova tip at 12 o'clock
Jewelling:  31 jewels
Power reserve: 7 days
Frequency:  21,600 v.p.h
Case: 18-carat red gold, diameter Ø 45 mm. 

Individual serial number relief-engraved on the case-back
Water resistance:  To 5 bar (50 meters)
Dial: Black with rubber treatment
Applied:  18-carat red gold ring and plates
Hands: 18-carat red gold hours and minutes, white Super-LumiNova tips
Strap: Rolled-edge hand made inserted black alligator leather strap with black stitches
Buckle: 18-carat red gold folding clasp with black PVD finish
Montres Jaquet Droz SA · Allée du Tourbillon 2 · CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds                             
tel. +41 (0)32 924 28 88 · fax +41 (0)32 924 28 82 

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 www.jaquet-droz.com