Monday, December 30, 2013

G. Gagnebin & Cie – KARAKTERO Collection















G. Gagnebin & CieKARAKTERO Collection NEW

The influence of the Gagnebin

One will never too much tell the scientific and artistic influence, which was illustrated in many domains, that the family Gagnebin have had. From the beginning of the 18th century, some of its members open the first chapter of a new adventure intimately linked to that of watchmaking.

In 1718, Sir Gagnebin commits himself – as testified by a document kept in the archives of the Canton of Neuchâtel – to teach the craft of watchmaking to Abraham Favre. His son became himself a watchmaker in 1737 and later, the company will be named Abraham Favre & Fils.
The works in physics and mechanics of Daniel Gagnebin, brother of Abraham the naturalist, highly contributes to the progress realized in watchmaking art. His initial medical training will not prevent him from extending his action beyond his first profession : he will invent several very precise machines intended for the manufacturing of pendulums. The history also remembers that he helped Jaquet Droz in the making of his automatons.

A family of watchmakers

The following generations strive in an even directer way to the evolution of watchmaking. Some are merchants, others study the specific aspects of watchmaking art. Among them, we can especially mention Frédéric-Guillaume Gagnebin, born in 1744, who went to Paris in order to study the theory and manufacturing of spirals for watches and becomes a talented chronometers maker, François-Louis Gagnebin, born in 1820, founder and director of the watchmaking factory Gagnebin & Cie in Saint-Imier and Louis Gagnebin, born in 1847, director of the watch factory Longines in Saint-Imier.

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 This symbol accompanies then the history of this family, whose origins date back to the 15th century.

The father of the founder of G. Gagnebin & Cie, Numa Gagnebin, also creates a watchmaking factory that he names « Les Fils de Numa Gagnebin ».
These few examples express the close link between the Gagnebin and watchmaking art. Way more than a simple professional activity, watchmaking has become a real passion for this family, in the heart of which motivation and necessity to advance the traditional art of their region have never been faulted.
The family motto « from good to better » thus perfectly corresponds to the conquering state of mind that inhabits, since long, the family Gagnebin.

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Fidelity to its history

Ally elegance to innovation and modernity, inscribe a contemporary imprint, offer luxury at an afforable price : G. Gagnebin & Cie watches take to heart staying faithful to the essence of values that made their reputation throughout their history.
Since its establishing in 1932, G. Gagnebin & Cie has striven to produce high quality watches, furnishing its models with the most reliable and precise mechanical movements. Now as ever, G. Gagnebin & Cie timepieces tick to the rhythm of these same mechanical movements, though of course enriched with current technology.

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Proud of its French-speaking origins, G. Gagnebin & Cie does not deny in any way the language of Molière and considers it as the real expression of luxury. That is why technical information engraved on the bottom of our watches and on the dial are in French.

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Inheritor of a long watchmaking history, G. Gagnebin & Cie re-launches its activities with its first collection of timekeepers for men. A classical design and contemporary stamping subtly ingrain the Karaktero watches.

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While staying faithful to the values that surrounded the history of the company – the lion and snake emblem placed on the bottom of the watches attests it –, the G. Gagnebin & Cie watches aim for today’s men.

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Three models, impregnated of a same vein, are proposed to them in a 43 millimeters diameter: the vintage version, the contemporary version and the modern variant, in black PVD.

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As the name in Ido language indicates, the Karaktero collection expresses the strength of character and ambition of the brand. It combines modern technology, natural elegance and artisan workmanship.

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Its three models, available on a sleek leather or alligator bracelet, reveal the heart of the watch, the pendulum. Their very distinct personalities make them the perfect partner for today’s men. These watches mean to accompany you throughout various moments of life,   enveloping them with their strength and dressing them with their sensibility.

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Technical details
 Reference: GG11101029  Black sunray
 Reference: GG11101039  Brown sunray
 Reference: GG11101018  Black vertical brushed

Case
Shape: Round
Dimension: ø 43 mm
Thickness: 9.5 mm
Material: Stainless Steel/ Stainless Steel Black PVD
Glass: Sapphire crystal
Case back: Transparent with opening on the pendulum
Water-resistant: 5 ATM (approx. 50 m)
Movement
Caliber: Automatic Sellita SW 300
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Dial
Color: Black vertical brushed/black sunray/brown sunray
Hour’s markers: Applied star and faceted black applied indexes with Super-Luminova ®
Hands: Black hands
Strap
Leather/alligator leather strap in black or brown with pin buckle



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Sunday, December 29, 2013

HAUTLENCE – Avant-Garde HLRQ-01




















HAUTLENCEAvant-Garde HLRQ-01 NEW

HAUTLENCE unveils the majestic HLRQ 01 and celebrates the commercial launch of the HLRQ line

Athletic and powerful, the HLRQ blends something of its predecessors, classicism with the sophisticated, sleek nature of the AVANT-GARDE watch family to which it is the latest addition. It is distinguished by an ultra-contemporary aesthetic giving it a much more lifestyle-oriented look.

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For its 4th participation in the SIAR (Salón Internacional de Alta Relojería held in Mexico from October 1st to 3rd), HAUTLENCE is introducing the third model in the HLRQ line, the majestic HLRQ 01. This powerful watch with its imposing 44 mm case band, made in circular satin-brushed black DLC-finish grade 2 titanium and featuring 18-carat pink gold horns, bezel, crown and push-button, is truly fascinating.

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Its in-house designed sapphire dial lends a sense of depth and transparency, while providing an admirable view of the manual-winding mechanical movement with its jumping hours and retrograde minutes (thanks to the famous HAUTLENCE connecting rod system) as well as its date display.

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The impression of weightlessness is accentuated by the superimposed discs arranged on several layers. Created in the HAUTLENCE Atelier d’Horlogerie Contemporaine, the HLRQ line is issued in non-limited series characterised by the same degree of excellence displayed through finely executed Côtes de Genève and hand-bevelled finishes.

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Technical Specifications

Functions:
    Jumping hours
    Retrograde minutes
    Fast date corrector
    Manual-winding mechanical movement
Display:
    Jumping hours
    Retrograde minutes
    Date
Movement:
    Jumping hours, retrograde minutes with connecting rod system
    Number of components : 255
    Power reserve : 40 hours
    Regulating organ : 21,600 vibrations/hour
    Number of jewels : 32
    Finishing : hand-chamfered bridges with Côtes de Genève
    Identification and numbering plate : HLRQ 01 – 0000
Case:
    Case middle and back : black DLC-coated titanium, circular fine-brushed;
    Bezel, horns and push-button : 18-carat 4N pink gold;
    Crown : polished 18-carat 4N pink gold with engraved HAUTLENCE logo;
    Glass : sapphire crystal with extra-hard anti-reflective treatment;
    Back : black DLC-finish grade 2 titanium, 4 screws, sapphire crystal, tamp-printed “HAUTLENCE” and “Horlogerie Suisse” inscriptions
    Dimensions : Ø 44 mm x 12.5 mm
Dial:
    Upper sapphire dial face : with fixed logo and metallized HAUTLENCE inscription. Transferred polished 5N red gold metallized, white superluminova-enhanced hours, minutes and index numerals
    Lower sapphire dial face : 5N red gold metallization and semi-opaque black area and black DLC-finish area
    Hours disc : transparent mineral glass with shiny 5N red gold metalized hours aperture, semi-opaque black zone and white superluminova indexes
    Minutes hands : 5N red gold and white superluminova tip
    Connecting rods : hand-chamfered and linear fine-brushed
Strap:
    Strap : black hand-sewn rolled-edge genuine Louisiana alligator leather, large square scales, interchangeability spring bar
    Folding clasp or pin buckle : grade 2 titanium base and polished 18-carat 5N red gold plate
Water Resistance:
    30 meters

Press Release

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Saturday, December 28, 2013

GoS Watches - Midnight Sun Edition

Gustafsson & Sjögren GoS Watches - Midnight Sun Limited Edition


Midnight Sun is a strictly limited edition inspired by the Lapland summers when the sun never sets.  The bright summer nights have a different kind of gentle light, which is sometimes  referred to as "the golden light".

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GoS has captured the golden light by using a solid gold dial and applying several steps of radial finishing to achieve the sunray effect. The abstract shape of the sun is captured in the damascus steel chapter ring. The chapter ring and the hands are made from Johan Gustafsson's handforged steel, which has been shaped, polished, etched and then beveled to create the rough patterned surface and sparkling beveled edges.

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The Midnight Sun model is a collaboration between GoS Watches and master watchmaker Jochen Benzinger who has developed his own style in movement skeletonization. The chronometre grade 6498 movement has received a custom sunray-skeletonization to complement the Midnight Sun theme. The blued main plate and wheels also feature some of his beautiful guilloche work.

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The Midnight Sun is crafted from the same (stainless) damascus steel that was first featured in the Nordic Seasons series. The finishing work on the case has been further developed with Midnight Sun to increase contrasts in the damascus steel pattern.

One unique feature of the GoS case is the larger diameter of the case back and bezels, which we use to highlight the curved surface of the damascus steel case core as the steel pattern is mirrored in the high gloss, polished finish. Another unique feature is the damascus steel bezel inset that frames the dial. The trademark oversize crown in damascus steel has a larger diameter than previous GoS models but the height has been reduced to increase overall wearability as the case core is 45mm.

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The hands of the Midnight Sun are made in damascus steel and have the GoS sword shape that premiered in the Stockholm model. All hands and index rings are hand finished with polished bevels. Making damascus steel parts in this reduced scale requires different qualities from the steel than when its used in knives. The damascus steel of watch hands requires the pattern to be very sharp and rich of contrasts to be at all visible.

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The Midnight Sun comes with a strap in soft, black nubuck. The matte surface of the straps blends well with the damascus steel finish of the case These handmade GoS straps are fitted with screwed lugs and are paired with a  stainless steel GoS buckle.

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Technical details
 
Specification
Case: Stainless steel and stainless Damascus steel 44/45mmx10mm (10ATM)
Lug width: 22mm
Glass: Flat sapphire glass with AR coating
Movement: Swiss manual ETA 6498
Movement refinement: Refinished and improved to chronometer grade by the Swiss company Soprod.
Movement customization: Skeletonized and re-finished by Jochen Benzinger
Dial: Solid 18K gold, finished with a sunray effect
Index ring/rehaut: Solid Damascus steel, shaped and polished by hand
Hands: Solid Damascus steel, shaped and polished by hand
Crown: 9mm in fine-grained stainless Damascus stainless steel, double gasket crown inset
Case finishing: Stainless Damascus steel, high gloss polished with GoS logo engraved on case side.
Strap: Handcrafted soft nubuck leather, fitted with GoS stainless steel buckle
Limitation: 5 pieces

Presentation Box
Individually crafted box in svepask technique of birch wood
Colored with natural pigments mixed in linseed oil
Covered with high grade natural wax and polished to a deep finish
Two year guarantee

This watch is available for purchase. 
No2-No5 are available for pre-order and delivery during Late December (No2 and No3), 
Late January (No4) and April (No5).
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Friday, December 27, 2013

Ball Watch – Trainmaster Standard Time

















BALL WatchTrainmaster Standard Time NEW


To mark the 130th anniversary of the adoption of standard time in the United States, BALL Watch Company unveils a new classic, timeless model: the Trainmaster Standard Time.

Before the adoption of standard time in 1883, time was set depending on the position of the sun. This resulted in every city having its own time zone, making the synchronization of railroad timetables extremely complicated. From 1883 onward, U.S. railroad companies put in place a new system to divide the nation into four time zones. This change led to the disappearance of over 70 official time zones, and has continued as the officially accepted system to the present day.

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In 1883, Webster Clay Ball, was the first jeweler in Cleveland, Ohio, to use the time signals emitted by the United States Naval Observatory in Washington, D.C., bringing accurate time to the residents of the “C-Town”. In 1891, Webster Clay Ball was appointed as Chief Time Inspector by the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railway Co. The unreliability of the watches used on the railroad networks made traveling by train a perilous business, and the introduction of a system of controls and inspections had become an urgent priority. Webb C. Ball laid down standards of quality, accuracy and design for all the watches used by the railroad. To ensure the greatest possible accuracy of each employee’s watch, a list of approved timepieces was submitted to the workers and compulsory inspections were made once every two weeks for comparison with standard Washington time.

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Inspired by the pocket watches of the 19th century, the retro style of the Trainmaster Standard Time model plunges us into a universe that is immune to the whims of fashion. An updated version of the classic, simple and reliable timepieces of yesteryear, this is a watch that is totally in keeping with the Railroad Standards introduced by Webb C. Ball throughout the United States. The Trainmaster Standard Time model is a subtle combination of a vintage style reminiscent of the 19th century railroads and the cutting-edge technology used in contemporary watchmaking.

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The case in 18k rose gold and the crocodile leather strap highlight the luxury aspect of this timepiece and make it a model that is the epitome of elegance. Although its case is relatively moderate in size, with its 39.5mm diameter, its understated graphic style and materials as well as the wide opening of the dial make it a timepiece of unrivaled legibility. To confirm the accuracy of this timepiece, the official status of “Automatic Chronometer” attributed by the COSC (the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) has been delicately inscribed on the watch’s dial. The form of the Arabic numerals, the enamel-white dial, the characteristic cut of the hands and the subsidiary seconds dial at six o’clock are all features inspired by the brand’s first fob-watch models worn by railroad employees. As a break with the spell of time, the words “BALL & Co.” have been styled to form the number 7 to make this timepiece truly unique.

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In order to ensure perfect time reading even in total darkness, Ball Watch Company’s own revolutionary luminous technology is also found on this model. 14 3H luminous micro gas tubes have been added to the hour and minute hands, and also to the hour-markers on the dial. These micro-tubes do not require any outside source of light or power and are up to 100 times brighter than the use of conventional luminous paint. The watch’s sapphire crystal case back enables the user to admire the BALL RR1105-C Swiss mechanical movement. The hour, minute and seconds at 6 o’clock as well as the date functions found on this model make it a truly indispensable classic timepiece.


Today, more than ever, BALL Watch is continuing its journey and asserting its role as a key protagonist in the exploration of modern time and the evolution of watchmaking history.


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Technical Specifications


    Model Reference: NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH
     
    Movement:
        Automatic caliber BALL RR1105-C  (based on the ETA 2895-2)
        Chronometer certified COSC
    Functions
        14 micro gas tubes on hour and minute hands and dial for night reading capability
        Shock resistant to 5,000Gs
        Water resistant to 30m/100ft
        Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds and date
    Case
        18k/750 rose gold
        Ø 39.5mm, height 10.5mm
        Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
        Convex sapphire crystal case back
        18k/750 rose gold crown
    Band: 
        Crocodile leather strap with standard buckle
    Dial:  
        White enamel

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Thursday, December 26, 2013

Antti Rönkkö – Steel LABYRINTH Limited Edition

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Antti Rönkkö – Steel  LABYRINTH Limited Edition



THE WATCHMAKER

Finnish watchmaker Antti Rönkkö wanted to design and manufacture his own timepiece because the mechanics of today did not fit his ideals for sophistication and perfection in watchmaking. He wanted total freedom for designing the complications based on the ideals of centuries old handcrafted watchmaking tradition.

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To truly understand a Finn, one has to first understand silence. The higher state of silence. Aware mental state, where thoughts and ideas form intuitively before creative expression. In communication, Finnish Silence is seen as unpleasant and uncomfortable because it is misunderstood. It's mixed with impoliteness, shyness, pride or arrogance – though it is ethnologically rooted from the appreciation of others and it means the aware creative fermentation of thought. For a Finn, silence means time for thought; creating something out of nothing.

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All insight; design, art and innovation are born in quiet. Realization happens when one has a break from thinking. Centuries of knowledge are woven into revelatory moments in watchmaking. 

When creating a Rönkkö timepiece, the ultimate goal is to measure time without loss. From the watchmakers own unique perspective, to make the most of time, one’s focus on the moment has to be absolute. Utilizing the art of silence magnifies each and every movement. Perfection is hidden in the detail.

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Caught in the moment of pure focus, time and sound cease to exist. Each unique timepiece is born out of Finnish Silence. Watchmaker Rönkkö is totally involved in every minute detail, whether technical or aesthetic. Like a true master, nothing is left to chance.




















Each Rönkkö timepiece is a culmination of long horologic tradition combined with passion, endurance and inspired Finnish design. The untiring timekeeper of Rönkkö is based on solid technical foundations incorporating centuries old knowledge and the highly prized tradition of watchmaking by hand.





















There is an old Finnish proverb: Hiljaa hyvä tulee – meaning that the secret for greatness is born from silence. A timepiece of Rönkkö is a perfect example of this philosophy of life.

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THE MYTH OF THE LABYRINTH

In Greek mythology the Labyrinth was an elaborate construction designed specifically to contain the Minotaur. The mystic beast, part man and part bull, dwelt at the very center of the Cretan Labyrinth. The story of how the Minotaur came to be captured and contained by Theseus is a story all of its own.

Just like the mythical Labyrinth, each of us has our own beast at the center of the Labyrinth that conjures the illusions with which we have surrounded ourselves. Only by braving the maze and stripping away the illusion we call reality, can we then penetrate the center of our own Labyrinth of life. Like Theseus, finally facing the Minotaur, the myth in symbolic context is about confronting the unconscious dark side of the human ego; with a realization that only when facing all our fears and insecurities, we can find our true Self.





























Created from our fears and insecurities, our personal Minotaur is a fearsome beast. It is created from the very things that we fear the most; from the things about ourselves that we do not want to admit exist in the darkest places of our hearts. It is our shadow-self; the part of ourselves that we continually deny. Only when we can find the courage from within to face the things about ourselves that we fear the most, then we can stand eye-to-eye with the beast and accept it as part of who and what we are.

Only when we realize that the beast does not define us, but instead makes us complete, then we can move past the darkness of the heart and emerge into the pure light of awareness.

Labyrinths in sacred sites around the world are used to help to achieve a contemplative state of meditation. Going through the maze; one loses track of direction, time and the outside world, thus quieting the mind.

The Steel Labyrinth can also be used as a tool for contemplation. The practice of meditation is proved to be the best way to gain self-knowledge and insight. Solving the Steel Labyrinth can be thought of as a personal pilgrimage; one can follow the path, ascending toward a quiet mind and deeper inner knowledge.

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By now the spiritual significance of labyrinths has faded, and they serve primarily for entertainment purposes, though recently their spiritual aspect has seen a resurgence.

The journey to the center begins with a single step.

Are you ready to face Your beast?

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STEEL LABYRINTH  MOVEMENT AR 1


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Uncompromising spirit shows up in the number of years of timely design process. It took five years for Rönkkö to realize the design and movement AR1 of the Steel Labyrinth, giving him time to meet all his ideals and requirements; both mechanical and aesthetic.

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Only the quest for true perfection gives him the emotional satisfaction from his work.

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The passion for watchmaking and respect for tradition stands out through Rönkkö’s unique timepieces; design, materials and mechanisms without compromise. The construction of the 'Steel Labyrinth' is designed to stand the test of time and when looked after, will last a lifetime. The German silver used for the bridges is an ideal material because of its endurance and resilience. Due to these factors, the manufacturing and hand finishing is time-consuming and labor-intensive. And for these reasons, the number of unique timepieces remain limited.

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The design is inspired by ancient greek-roman myths, art and architecture; the still lines and steady curves are not there by chance. Fine-tuned mechanics are based on the path of least resistance. The energy has to flow freely through the fine mechanics created by Rönkkö. He has proven that a combination of traditional methods and his own insight work best together.

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Technical Specifications
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MOVEMENT AR 1:
• Manual wind
• Hours, minutes, small second at 7 o'clock
• 36h power reserve
• 18000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz)
• 17 jewels
• Breguet balance spiral
• Movement diameter 35mm and height 3.5mm
• Plates are made of non-plated German silver, except pallet lever bridge and escape wheel bridge made from stainless steel
• Finishing of the movement: bottom side circular graining (perlage), top side straight line grinding, edges are hand bevelled and polished with many interior and exterior angles
• Movement is connected directly to the casing without movement-ring by two screwpins
CASE:
• Dragon foot design - diameter 41mm and height 11.5mm
• Hand finished, Stavax ESR hardened stainless steel case with satin finished surfaces and polished edges, completely nickel free
• Dial side curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating inside, back side flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating inside
• Stainless steel crown with AR logo
• Water-resistant to 3 ATM
DIAL:
• Complex labyrinth textured dial with black DLC coating
• Stainless steel index ring with 4 screws
HANDS:
• Hands made from stainless steel
BUCKLE:
• Hand finished, Stavax ESR hardened stainless steel buckle with satin finished surfaces and polished edges, completely nickel free
STRAP:
• Various types of leather
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In his quest for shapes and angles impossible to achieve with the modern machinery, Rönkkö takes a painstaking and time-consuming route in order to manufacture and finish his timepieces by hand. He follows the same path as the old masters before him and is proud to carry their knowledge with him.


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Tuesday, December 24, 2013

HUBLOT - Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli Special Edition


















HUBLOT - KING POWER Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli Special Edition NEW

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Exceptional for the exceptional !

Cheval Blanc Randheli, the new second Cheval Blanc Maison, is an intimate and contemporary haven for the most demanding clientele, on the unspoiled Noonu Atoll in the Maldives.

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Celebrating true craftsmanship, exclusive privacy, creativity and genuine, and caring service, Hublot pays tribute to the beauty of the site, the refined and elegant Maison conceived in synergy with the island’s natural surroundings and lagoon, by unveiling a special diver's watch, only available at Cheval Blanc Randheli.

Made of titanium, with luminescent indexes in Cheval Blanc Randheli yellow, this watch withstands the pressure exerted at the extreme depth of 4,000 m.
It is a symbolic watch. The 4000 metres watch. A watch developed for pushing the limits of what is rational and possible. It has taken 18 months of research, development and testing to present the Oceanographic 4000, a watch which can be worn on dives to depths of 4,000 metres, under extreme pressure - an exceptional technical achievement.

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Designed to meet the most demanding requirements,of both professional divers and watch enthusiasts.

Almost all the features of the Oceanographic 4000 are exceptional, in terms of design, development and manufacturing. To be described as a "montre de plongée" (diver's watch), resistant to the pressure exerted at the record depth of 4,000 metres, the watch had to meet the exacting specifications of the international standards of Swiss Watchmaking (NIHS).

Starting with its seal, tested by Hublot in a Roxer tank, submerged and pressurised to the equivalent of 5,000 metres. To ensure the watertightness of the watch and to resist this extreme pressure, the synthetic sapphire crystal is 6.5 thick. This is thicker than normal, but is reasonable for this level of resistance. The case back is screw-down, a sine qua non for reaching such depths. It is made of grade 2 titanium, an extremely strong stainless material.

As its case is made of titanium, the Oceanographic 4000 is still light on the wrist - although its diameter of 48 mm and its volume are substantial. From the brightness standpoint, the time and elapsed time measured by the flange must be legible from a distance of 25 cm in the dark. To meet this requirement, the dial, the flange and the hands of the Oceanographic 4000 have been optimised to have a larger surface area treated with SuperLuminova™, a luminescent material emitting a yellow colour.

The reading method has been made as safe as possible, using an internal rotating flange which is unidirectional and rack-driven, with a dive time indicator. The dive time indicator being placed as close as possible to the dial minimises the risk of inadvertently altering the dive time. It also makes the dive time easier to read.


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In accordance with the standard, the Oceanographic 4000 has a minute scale on which the five-minute periods are clearly highlighted.

The watch is fitted with two screw-down crowns (a protective measure that helps ensure water resistance by compression of an O-ring seal).The flange crown which sets the dive time is placed at the 2 o'clock position for easy access and more comfortable use. It is unidirectional, again for safety reasons, with a bayonet fitting and protected by an oversized crown guard, for extra safety and easy operation when handling diving equipment. The second crown, for winding and setting the time and date, is positioned at 4 o'clock to avoid obstruction.

Finally, the Oceanographic 4000 has a helium valve, a feature essential to any diving watch capable of descending to great depths. An essential feature when the watch is used in diving chambers, the helium valve allows gases that have infiltrated the watch during the descent to safely escape during the ascent. The valve fitted to the Oceanographic 4000 is made of stainless steel, positioned at 10 o'clock, visible from the left-hand side lug.

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The watch comes with a white rubber strap with a buckle straps. This type of fastening is more secure than a folding clasp for this type of use, and is also easier to handle and close when using gloves. Note that the design of this buckle is original (because the use of a tongue is rare in the normal Hublot collections) and that its method of attachment to the case is even more so with two small push buttons built into each end of the case to allow the strap to be changed instantly without the use of a screwdriver or any other accessory.

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