An innovative artistic craft making its first watchmaking appearance in a dialogue with Grand Feu enamelling
Aerial views of the world’s most beautiful cities
The Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières collection is an invitation to embark upon a nocturnal journey above cities bubbling with creativity. On dials draped with an enamelled base in deep shades, a wide variety of powders creates a bird’s-eye view miniature tableau of these sprawling urban expanses. Traditional Grand Feu champlevé enamelling mingles with hand-applied precious powder, an art never yet used in Haute Horlogerie. The striking and realistic beauty of these timepieces opens up whole new artistic and creative horizons, where traditional skills are constantly nurtured by fresh influences.
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Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
The light effects play across these strikingly realistic roads, rivers and famous landmarks. The Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières watches beat to the rhythm of a mechanical Manufacture movement graced with refined finishing, in accordance with traditional Haute Horlogerie techniques. After the first models dedicated to the nocturnal magic of Geneva, Paris, New York, Beijing, this night-flight across time continues over another metropolis: Tokyo.
An enduring vocation for artistic crafts
The Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières collection perpetuates the age-old Vacheron Constantin tradition of artistic crafts. In 1755, the very first known watch by the founder of the Maison, Jean-Marc Vacheron, already featured delicate engraved arabesque motifs. Ever since, for almost three centuries, gemsetters, enamellers, guillocheurs and engravers have been cultivating and passing on these forms of expertise that have become extremely rare. Today as yesterday, over the years and in step with successive creations, their dexterity has given life to masterpieces of the watchmaking art.
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These decorative skills have acquired the habit of echoing each other, combining their techniques with art and creativity on watch dials, and often adopting the spirit of lesser known and surprising arts such as illumination, Japanese lacquer, glyptics or gemstone cloisonné effects. In keeping with this tradition, the Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières collection enables Vacheron Constantin to explore new, contemporary and innovative expressive territory for artistic crafts.
Aerial perspective
Vacheron Constantin has depicted major cities – notably renowned for their artistic influence – through their nocturnal panorama. Individually applying precious powder particles naturally implies extreme dexterity, and doing so on the surface of a watch involves the additional constraint of defining an ideal altitude for each city so as to convey realistically the emotional impact of its urban outlines.
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Grand Feu enamelling
For each of the dials, the Vacheron Constantin Master enameller first examined the possibilities afforded by champlevé in order to highlight the shapes of the streets, gardens and stretches of water. After hollowing out the gold dial by hand according to the chosen outlines, he then applied successive layers of translucent coloured enamels. Between each coating, the dial is fired at the extremely high temperature of 850°C.
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These crucial and delicate stages, masterfully guided by intuition and governed by stringent discipline acquired over time, enable the powdered glass mixed with colouring oxides to be melted, transformed and then vitrified by cooling – with the inevitable risk that the dial may crack or flaws may form. In the Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières collection, the master enameller has taken up the additional challenge of composing subtly translucent and dark shades in order to reproduce the singular night-time atmosphere.
Luminous rain
Vacheron Constantin invited the Japanese artist Yoko Imai to associate her art with that of the enamelling artisan. Trained by the great Japanese masters, she has developed her own artistic technique: calligraphy-inspired painting on canvas, inspired by precious powder. For Vacheron Constantin, she has adapted this process to the enamel of a watch dial, while creating a fascinating chiaroscuro effect. To ensure a faithful transcription of the city lights, her deft hands are guided by absolute mastery, unwavering concentration and a special sensitivity requiring a particular form of concentration and sensitivity.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Each of the powder specks is thus chosen according to its size and its shimmer, then worked on from several angles and with various types of light, so as to ensure enhanced radiance and realism. First of all, tiny gold grains form the luminous backdrop. Then diamond and platinum powder are successively applied to create shiny and dark effects, punctuated by pearl spangles. Their varying brightness makes it possible adjust the direction and size of the luminescent areas, in order to infuse the dial with life and warmth. On the enamel base, between the raised gold ridges, tens of thousands of spangles shine in the light.
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The particles of precious powder, all of varying shades and degree of luminosity, interact both amongst themselves and with the dark shades of the Grand Feu enamelled background. The radiance of the composition is more intense in the dial centre and gradually softens towards the outer edges of the dial.Hand-crafted during more than three months and born from a mingling of artistic crafts, each dial is truly unique.
The lights of Geneva, Paris, New York, Beijing and Tokyo
The flyover begins with Geneva, the cradle of technical and precious watchmaking, renowned for having nurtured the art of miniature painting on enamel. Vacheron Constantin was born in the heart of the town, in the St-Gervais district, where the cabinotiers had their workshops.
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Then comes Paris, the “City of Light” par excellence, a favourite among artists, philosophers and writers, known the world over for the inimitable elegance of its style. The aerial view of the capital retraces the life of iconic landmarks such as the Place de l’Étoile and the Champs-Elysées, the Seine, as well as the Eiffel Tower famed for its light effects, viewed from above and engraved in gold. The journey continues with New York, the city that never sleeps, a symbol of dreams and effervescence, where everything is possible. Reproducing it stretches the technique of applying precious powders to its absolute limits, with the highest vantage point that could possibly be depicted. Sprinkled across the Grand Feu enamel, tens of thousands of precious dots animate the luminous outlines of Manhattan Island with Central Park, the Hudson River and Brooklyn.
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Finally, the lights of Tokyo make their stage entrance, lending precious sparkling accents to the translucent Grand Feu enamel dial base, featuring a darker shade for the city and a bluish hue for Tokyo Bay. Specks of gold highlight symbolic locations: the Ginza luxury shopping district, the iconic Tokyo Tower, the Kasumiga-seki and Nagatcho political centre, the Rainbow Bridge, as well as the super-trendy Roppongi hotspot. This vibrant nocturnal cartography expresses the harmonious energy characterising the capital of Japan. Water and earth, technology and history: striking contrasts rub shoulders and mingle to create a perfectly balanced alchemist’s blend.
Horological excellence
The timepieces of the Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières collection are certified by the Hallmark of Geneva, a sure token of precision and reliability issued by an entirely neutral and independent body. Manufacture Vacheron Constantin mechanical self-winding Caliber 2460 SC drives a display of the hours, minutes and seconds. Visible through the transparent case-back, the 22 carats gold oscillating weight features a finely executed decoration inspired by the Maltese cross, the Vacheron Constantin signature emblem.
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Technical Specifications
Collection: Métiers d’Art
Model: Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières Gold – TOKYO
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REFERENCES
86222/000G-B101 – Geneva
86222/000G-B104 – Paris
86222/000G-B105 – New York
86222/000G-B107 – Beijing
86222/000G-B106 – Tokyo
CALIBRE 2460 SC
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 3.6 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
182 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces
INDICATIONS
Hours, minutes and center seconds
CASE
18K white gold
40 mm diameter, 8.9 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
DIAL
18K gold dial with Grand Feu champlevé & translucent enamel and powder of precious stones (diamonds,
pearl) & precious metal (gold, platinum) filled by hand
STRAP
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, large square scales
BUCKLE
18K white gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
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Press Release - 2020
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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