VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – DRAGON - Unique Piece

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers  Grisaille High Jewellery – DRAGON - Unique Piece 2024

Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages A watchmaking odyssey honouring arts and cultures of the world

• Les Cabinotiers - Récits de Voyages collection sets off to discover the world and its wonders in the spirit of openness that has characterised Vacheron Constantin since its origins: China and its ancestral culture are notably highlighted in certain models.
• For the first time, the Maison's master enameller has employed the grisaille technique using green enamels to pay an original and vibrant tribute to the mythical five-clawed imperial dragon depicted on the dial.
• Emblematic of the Maison’s technical mastery, this one-of-a-kind watch set with baguette-cut diamonds is powered by in-house Calibre 1120, an ultra-thin self-winding movement.

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The single-piece edition timepieces in the new Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages range reflects Vacheron Constantin's geographical expansion. With the first commercial contacts forged between Vacheron Constantin and China in the mid-19^th century, this country became an essential travel destination. To pay tribute to this country, the Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon watch features a green grisaille enamel dial, a first for Vacheron Constantin and an original backdrop for the mythical five-clawed imperial dragon. 

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Manufacture Calibre 1120, one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever produced, powers this one-of-a-kind timepiece set with baguette-cut diamonds.

Vacheron Constantin and Asia

 Vacheron Constantin’s human adventure, which gives substance to artistic crafts, is enriched with Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages, an imaginary horological odyssey to destinations representing the various historical stages in the expansion of the Maison. Each one-of-a-kind timepiece in the collection evokes the arts and cultures of the different continents visited by the Maison. This international expansion, which began in the early 19^th century, also included China.

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The emperor turned to the best European artisans, including Vacheron Constantin to rebuild his lost collection. Having begun prospecting the Chinese market in the first half of the 19^th century, with business contacts documented as early as 1845, the Maison had already established a solid reputation in the country.

First green grisaille for Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin's master artisan has devised a new grisaille enamelling technique to enhance the dial of this timepiece and highlight the mythical five-clawed dragon. A symbol of power, nobility and good fortune, this creature is always accompanied by its pearl, an emblem of wisdom.

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The art of grisaille, a technique dating back to the 16^th century, reveals the motif in a play of chiaroscuro, designed to endow it with special depth. This now rare technique consists of applying layers of a rare white enamel known as Limoges white to a dark enamel base. Each layer is then fired in a kiln, with the firing time precisely defined to the nearest second. Over the course of the firing, the details of the dragon take shape, gradually giving consistency to the way in which the dragon is staged with a wealth of incredibly accurate details. The enameller's work generally ends with the application of a final layer of lapped translucent enamel to achieve an effect of brilliance and depth that brings out the contrasts in the painting.

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For this piece, the Maison’s master enameller took a different approach by choosing to give a green tint to the translucent enamel applied to the initial work in Limoges white. This colouring reinforces the mythical appearance of the depiction. To accentuate the depth effect, the master enameller then used Limoges white for the final subtleties of the motif by means of successive layers fired in the kiln. Another first is the combination of grisaille enamel and gemsetting. 

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The 40 mm case in 18K white gold is set with 146 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, middle and lugs (7.1 carats). The crown is adorned with a reverse-set brilliant-cut diamond. It is paired with a dark green alligator leather strap featuring a white gold pin buckle set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds.

Calibre 1120: a legendary ultra-thin movement

The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon watch is distinguished by its elegant silhouette. This model with a case measuring just 8.9 mm thick benefits from the Maison’s expertise in the world of ultra-thin calibres.

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While Vacheron Constantin's first ultra-thin calibres date back to the 19^th century, the Manufacture developed several movements renowned for their slenderness throughout the 20^th century, in response to the comfort-related expectations of a clientele won over by wristwatches. In 1911, for example, Vacheron Constantin's records show three calibres with different diameters but a common thickness of 2.82 mm. 

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This quest for thinness led to the creation of movements measuring 2.25 mm thick in 1917 and 1.88 mm in 1924. In 1955, to celebrate its bicentenary, Vacheron Constantin presented Calibre 1003, a manual-winding movement just 1.64 mm thick and at the time the thinnest ever produced.

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At just 2.45 mm thick, Calibre 1120 reflects this same concern for combining technical sophistication with elegant design.  Introduced in 1968, this movement was redesigned in 2010 with an 18K gold oscillating weight shaped like a Maltese cross. It retained the same size, yer with a higher 40-hour power reserve. Bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, it was taken to the next level in terms of decoration and finishing, featuring a Côtes de Genève motif, circular graining, chamfering and straight-grained flanks. 

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With its 144 components and a regulator operating at a rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75 Hz), this latest-generation Calibre 1120 drives the watch's white gold leaf-shaped hands.

Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages series

Vacheron Constantin's vocation has always been to perfect the art of watchmaking in Geneva while remaining open to the world. The founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron (1787-1864) was the first to criss-cross the roads of France and Italy, followed by his partner François Constantin (1788-1854), a tireless traveller who oversaw the commercial development of the Maison. He established commercial relations with Central Europe, South America, Scandinavia and Asia, during a period in time when Vacheron Constantin was also gaining a foothold in the United States and China, as well as in Brazil, Hong Kong and Cuba.

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François Constantin's correspondence stretching over a quarter of a century paints the portrait of a Manufacture that was open to a Europe undergoing major restructuring in the aftermath of the Napoleonic Wars and the Congress of Vienna. This scope and reach continued to expand as the Vacheron Constantin name crossed borders and conquered new markets. Since that time, the very notion of travel has been inherent to the values of the Maison, an integral part of the human adventure characterising its nearly 270-year history. Following in its founders’ footsteps, the Maison offers these Récits de Voyages series as a watchmaking odyssey through the world and its wonders, applying craftsmanship and mechanical art as its means of expression.

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SUMMARY

Vacheron Constantin presents Les Récits de Voyages, a collection of one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers timepieces combining craftsmanship and technical mastery. This collection dedicated to the Maison’s international expansion that began in the 19^th century celebrates the spirit of openness it has demonstrated from the outset. Each watch illustrates the successive stages of this odyssey. 

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Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon pays tribute to China, a country whose trade with Vacheron Constantin dates back to 1845. On the dial of this watch featuring a five-clawed imperial dragon and its pearl, Vacheron Constantin's master artisan has created a motif in green grisaille enamel, a first for the Manufacture, another first being the gemsetting of a model with a grisaille enamel dial. 

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The case of this timepiece is entirely set with 146 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, middle and lugs, while a brilliant-cut diamond adorns the crown. This Hallmark of Geneva-certified watch is powered by self-winding Calibre 1120, a legendary movement distinguished by its extreme 2.45 mm thinness and its aesthetically pleasing construction. 

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It is housed in a white gold case measuring 40 mm in diameter and 8.9 mm thick, paired with a dark green alligator leather strap secured by a gemset white gold pin buckle.

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Interview with Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director

You highlight the thinness of some of the models presented in this Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages collection. What are Vacheron Constantin’s credentials in this field?

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Since its creation in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has been involved in all areas of the watchmaking art: pocket watches, wristwatches, rings, sautoir necklaces and brooches, demonstrating consummate mastery of complications, grand complications and ultra-thin mechanical movements. While this latter field of expertise might easily appear less prestigious than grand complication models, this is definitely not the case. Ultra-thin calibres require just as much talent and expertise, as demonstrated by Vacheron Constantin since its origins. As far back as the early 19^th century, correspondence between the Maison’s directors clearly referred to "thin watches". This quest for slimness became a Vacheron Constantin signature throughout the 20^th century, as exemplified by a pocket watch unveiled in 1931 with a mechanical manual-winding movement measuring 17 ^5/12 lignes or 39.20 mm in diameter and barely 0.94 mm thick. 

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Calibre 1003, presented in 1955 to celebrate the Maison’s 200^th anniversary; as well as Calibre 1120, which appeared 13 years later and is featured in the Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon watch, are part of this trend towards ultra-thin, aesthetically accomplished movements. Some of these calibres have become iconic among collectors, who recognise both the technical solutions adopted and the sense of form in the arrangement of their components. What applies to watches with two or three hands also applies to complications, notably thanks to this same Calibre 1120 with additional function modules. While on this topic, I should also mention the example of minute repeater Calibre 1731, the thinnest on the market at the time of its presentation in 2013 at just 3.90 mm thick.

Grisaille enamel and gemsetting: why are these two artistic crafts perfectly mastered by Vacheron Constantin only now being combined?

These two techniques are indeed among the artistic crafts perfectly mastered within the Manufacture. The fact that it had not previously seemed appropriate to combine the two was mainly because dials produced in grisaille enamel are strikingly beautiful, showcasing breathtaking attention to detail through chiaroscuro atmospheres forming realistic depictions that nothing should be allowed to disturb. 

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The grisaille enamel models presented last year by Vacheron Constantin in its “Les Royaumes Aquatiques^®” Les Cabinotiers collection feature a smooth bezel and case, with no gemsetting. With Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon, the green shade given to the dial's grisaille enamel – a first for Vacheron Constantin – prompted the Maison’s designers to try something different. Gemsetting the case was an obvious choice, not only because it accentuates the depth effect intended by this enamelling technique, but also because it enhances its brilliance.

Do Vacheron Constantin and China enjoy a longstanding shared history?

China is a fascinating country with which Vacheron Constantin has enjoyed close ties since the mid-19^th century. In 2015, to celebrate 65 years of bilateral relations between China and Switzerland, Vacheron Constantin took part in the "Geneva at the Heart of Time –The Origin of Swiss Watchmaking Culture" exhibition, in partnership with the Musée d’art et d’histoire (MAH) in Geneva and the Capital Museum in Beijing. This was the largest watchmaking exhibition ever staged in Asia, with more than 350 pieces, tools, paintings and engravings, a third of which came from Vacheron Constantin's heritage collection. The Manufacture was also present at the exhibition site at the Capital Museum in Beijing with its master watchmakers, engravers, enamellers and guilloché artists. This simple example illustrates China’s importance for the Manufacture, which has around 30 points of sale in the country. Chinese customers are sensitive to la belle horlogerie and to fine craftsmanship. They are highly appreciative of artistic crafts and show great loyalty to these principles.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Collection: Les Cabinotiers

Model: Grisaille High Jewellery – DRAGON - Unique Piece

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 Reference   2017C/000G-096C   

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Caliber  1120
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
28.40 mm diameter, 2.40 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 40 hours
2.75 Hz (19’800 vibrations/hour)
144 components
36 jewels
Indications   Hours and minutes
Case                     
18K white gold set with💎146 baguette-cut diamonds (approx.. 7.10 cts)
40 mm diameter, 8.90 mm thick
Crown set with an inverted brilliant-cut 💎diamond (approx. 0.10 ct)
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial                                                     
“Green” Grisaille enamel representing a dragon
Strap                                                  
Dark green Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp                                                  
18K white gold pin buckle set with 💎16 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 0.60 ct)

Presentation box & accessory           
 Les Cabinotiers model

 Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique », « Les Cabinotiers » and « AC » hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece

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Press Release - 2024
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN – OVERSEAS Tourbillon High Jewellery Blue White Gold

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – OVERSEAS Tourbillon High Jewellery 42.5mm White Gold Blue Dial

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    A first in the Overseas collection: the combination of white gold and the collection's signature blue dial, along with the setting of baguette-cut diamonds.
    Technical mastery to ensure the slimness of complication movements: a tourbillon powered by ultra-thin Manufacture Calibre 2160.
    A watch adorned with a total of 85 baguette-cut diamonds set on the bezel, index and pin buckle. 

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Vacheron Constantin enriches its Overseas collection with a new technical and precious tourbillon model. Available in an original combination of white gold with a blue dial, it is also distinguished by its bezel and hour-markers entirely set with baguette-cut diamonds. This 42.5 mm-diameter sporty-chic watch features a slender curvature thanks to its ultra-thin self-winding movement, in-house Calibre 2160 with tourbillon. 

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The watch comes with three interchangeable bracelet/straps. The case-integrated first white gold bracelet is fitted with a folding clasp, while the two additional straps in blue calfskin and rubber are secured by a likewise interchangeable white gold pin buckle set with baguette-cut diamonds.

Baguette-cut diamonds: a first on the Overseas collection

Vacheron Constantin has chosen the Overseas tourbillon model to introduce two new additions to its collection dedicated to the spirit of travel. For the first time, the model is attired in white gold, a material perfectly suited to its sophisticated nature. 

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To bring out the luminous gleam of the metal, the watch bears the collection’s emblematic satin-brushed blue dial. The second addition is about the colour contrast, enhanced by the setting of 60 diamonds on the six-sided bezel, extending onto the hour-markers.

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Unlike the other Overseas models, the diamonds set on this piece are baguette-cut, with minimalist contours echoing the watch's highly structured silhouette. This precious Overseas tourbillon high jewellery is also extremely elegant thanks to its slim case.

Ultra-thin: reflecting technical mastery

The Overseas tourbillon watch offers an excellent interpretation of Vacheron Constantin's understated, creative aesthetic combined with perfect technical mastery. This symbiosis is notably expressed through the slenderness of its curvature, made possible by its ultra-thin movement, Calibre 2160 measuring a mere 5.65 mm thick. 

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Such proportions – just over 10 mm thick for the cased-up watch – are achieved by means of the 22K gold peripheral rotor ensuring an 80-hour power reserve. This construction not only enhances thinness by eliminating the central axis of rotation of the oscillating weight, but also gives a clearer view of the entire movement from the back.

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The show staged by this ultra-thin Calibre 2160 is all the more striking. Drawing all eyes, the ballet performed by the regulator is particularly impressive due to its slender architecture, a veritable technical feat accentuated by the care devoted to the movement finishes. With its circular-grained mainplate; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and hand-bevelled, like the tourbillon bar; its frosted wheels as well as its chamfered and polished screws, Calibre 2160 and its 188 components offer a concrete embodiment of technical and precious 

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High Watchmaking. Beating at a frequency at 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour), it displays the hours and minutes, as well as the small seconds on the tourbillon carriage.

One watch, three faces

Water-resistant to 50 metres with a screw-down crown, the Overseas tourbillon high jewellery watch features an interchangeable bracelet/strap system. A special feature of the collection, this technical trick enables the straps to be changed entirely tool-free, thereby enabling Overseas watches to take on new looks to match the circumstances. 

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Supplied with an integrated white gold bracelet fitted with a folding clasp, the model adopts a sportier vibe with a blue rubber strap, or a more classic character with a calfskin leather strap in the same shade. 

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Both straps are fitted with a white gold pin buckle, itself interchangeable tool-free and set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds.

Interview with Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director

Is baguette-cut gemsetting part of the Vacheron Constantin world?
Baguette-cut diamonds first appeared on certain medieval and Renaissance jewels, but really came into their own at the beginning of the 20th century. They were particularly popular in the Art Deco style and were well suited to new techniques such as the invisible setting. Vacheron Constantin was quick to adopt baguette-cut diamonds in its creations, as seen in many of the Maison’s historical timepieces. 

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Brilliant-cut and baguette-cut gems often alternate on the same timepiece, the latter disrupting the rhythm of the round, traditional gems, such as on the Traditionnelle tourbillon jewellery watch featuring precisely this combination of 559 round-cut and baguette-cut diamonds on a watch powered by the same Calibre 2160 as the new Overseas. 

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On the other hand, the invisible-set Malte tourbillon regulator is magnificently adorned with 565 exclusively baguette-cut diamonds totalling 19 carats.

Why choose this new baguette cut for an Overseas watch?
Vacheron Constantin's designers and gemsetters introduced this new cut to the Overseas collection because it is beautifully aligned with its sophisticated character. 

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Compared with the 58-facet brilliant cut most widely used in the jewellery world, the baguette cut with its 25 facets features an edgier, more graphic look that emphasises the diamond's purity rather than its brilliance. With its right angles, flat surface and sharp edges, the baguette cut reinforces the architectural design of Overseas.

What makes Vacheron Constantin's Calibre 2160 so exceptional?
Calibre 2160, one of the thinnest tourbillon movements on the market at just 5.65 mm, is a genuine technical feat. For the Maison's watchmakers who developed this calibre presented in 2018, the challenge was to integrate a tourbillon regulator into an ultra-thin self-winding movement. This type of construction entails twin difficulties. 

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The presence of an oscillating weight and the integration of a tourbillon cage generally imply additional movement thickness. It was therefore necessary to work first on the architecture of the tourbillon itself and then to design a high-efficiency peripheral rotor winding system to achieve an 80-hour power reserve. The watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin were able to respond perfectly to these constraints with ultra-thin Calibre 2160, which is also aesthetically pleasing thanks to the meticulous attention lavished on the decoration.  

For whom is this new Overseas tourbillon intended?
For all devotees of High Watchmaking who appreciate a precious touch. This timepiece represents a magnificent compromise between a technical watch with a sporty look and more formal models. For some time now, the 'sporty-chic' segment has been experiencing strong popularity, with the first 1970s models serving as the benchmark. This category of watches offers a host of possible interpretations, from technical to aesthetic, and jewellery! The Overseas tourbillon high jewellery meets all these expectations.

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Summary

With the Overseas tourbillon high jewellery watch, Vacheron Constantin introduces two new features to its collection dedicated to travel and discovery: a new combination of the emblematic Overseas blue dial and a white gold case with integrated bracelet; along with the setting of baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, hour-markers and pin buckle. This watch with its slender curves is powered by the ultra-thin self-winding in-house Calibre 2160 with tourbillon, measuring just 5.65 mm thick. 

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Beating at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, it ensures an 80-hour power reserve while driving displays of the hours, minutes as well as small seconds on the tourbillon carriage. The watch comes with two additional interchangeable straps in blue rubber and calfskin, themselves fitted with a gemset pin buckle that is itself interchangeable without any need for tools. 

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TECHNICAL DATA

Collection: OVERSEAS

Model:  OVERSEAS Tourbillon High Jewellery

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Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

REFERENCE 6007V/210G-B955

MOVEMENT
CALIBRE 2160
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, peripheral rotor
31 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
INDICATIONS
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage (color screw)
Tourbillon
CASE
18K white gold 
42.5 mm diameter, 10.39  thick
Bezel set with 💎60 baguette-cut diamonds, invisible setting
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistant tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 meters) 
DIAL
Translucent blue-lacquered, sunburst satin-finished base with velvet-finished flange
18K white gold hour-markers set with 💎9 baguette-cut diamonds, closed setting
18K white gold hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue Super-LumiNova®
BRACELET/STRAPS
Additional straps/clasp        
Blue calfskin leather strap with grey stiches
Blue rubber
Interchangeable 18K white gold pin buckle set with 💎16 baguette-cut diamonds, invisible setting
Total diamond-setting
 💎 85 baguette-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 3.61 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)

• #VacheronConstantin
• #OneOfNotMany
• #TourbillonHighJewellery
• #OverseasTourbillon

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Press Release - 2023
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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www.facebook.com - Vacheron Constantin 
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon – Tribute to Art Deco Style - Unique Piece

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon – Tribute to Art Deco Style - Unique Piece 2023

 Récits de Voyages - A watchmaking odyssey honouring arts and cultures of the world

• Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages sets off to discover the world and its wonders in the spirit of openness that has characterised Vacheron Constantin since its origins: among the various destinations, the North American leg focuses on the United States, where the Maison has been active since 1832.
• A masterpiece of engraving and guilloché work, this single-piece edition reflects a period of prosperity coupled with extraordinary artistic and cultural dynamism.
• Emblematic of the Maison’s technical mastery, and protected by four patents, in-house Calibre 1990 combines a bi-axial tourbillon with an instantaneous bi-retrograde display.

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The single-piece editions in the new Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages collection reflect Vacheron Constantin's geographical expansion, of which the Americas were a major milestone. These new territories became part of the Vacheron Constantin world at a very early stage, with the first contacts made in the United States in 1832, followed by Brazil in 1835 and Mexico ten years later. In the U.S., the turn of the century was marked by an intense period reflecting the principles of Art Deco, which quickly became a comprehensive art form. The new Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon – Tribute to Art Deco style watch, bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, is driven by in-house Calibre 1990 featuring a bi-axial tourbillon regulator with instantaneous bi-retrograde hours and minutes display.

Vacheron Constantin and Americas

Setting up its first representative office in New York as early as 1832, Vacheron Constantin was quick to identify the United States as a key market. The Maison’s watches soon met with success in booming cities such as Philadelphia and New Orleans. Within the space of just a few decades, it found its place among the country's social and cultural personalities, with a clientele including leading lights and captains of industry.

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Among the timepieces of historical importance to Vacheron Constantin, many were made for American clients. Aviation pioneers Orville and Wilbur Wright placed an order in 1890 for a pilot’s watch to be strapped to the thigh, the very first of its kind. Three decades later, at a time when the Maison became a shareholder in the American Watch Case Co case manufacturer, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers ordered several thousand watches. 

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The cushion-shaped American 1921 watch, specifically created for the United States, in turn testifies to the buoyant mood of the Roaring Twenties, which brought a breath of fresh air to the nation. Art Deco was the dominant style at the time, perfectly in keeping with this optimistic, modern vision of a world in the grip of tremendous cultural effervescence. This style imposed new architectural solutions that soon reached dizzying heights in New York, before taking over the fields of furniture, interior design, clothing and cars to the point of becoming a comprehensive art form in the United States.

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It was also a time when the wristwatch was beginning to establish itself as the new horological standard, accompanied by the fanciful touches typical of the spirit of the age. This period notably featured the aesthetic of the American 1921, designed by Vacheron Constantin during these years of intense creativity and now celebrated with the new Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon –Tribute to Art Deco style.

A subtle combination of engraving and guilloché

With its highly architectural design, generous armillary tourbillon and openworked dial featuring a bi-retrograde display, the watch offers an ideal creative space for combining aesthetics with Art Deco style codes. Entrusted to the Maison’s master engravers, this task not only involves reworking the bridges and plate of Calibre 1990, but also adorning the case middle with a frieze extending over the lugs.

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The master engraver juggled several techniques between the case and the rear movement bridges.  Bas-relief serves to obtain a more accentuated motif than drypoint work; the surfaces are hand-chased point by point; while rounding off consists of gently rocking the intaglio tool, whose rounded bevel is fitted with thin sharp steel tips.

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The guilloché work complements the engraving techniques applied to the case in 18K 3N yellow gold and to the movement machined from a nickel-silver alloy chosen for its rigidity. On the front, the calibre is entirely hand-guilloché in a perfectly geometrical, purely Art Deco-inspired radiating pattern. The metal has been given a black DLC surface treatment to accentuate the contrast with the colour of the case and bridges, again recalling the combination of brass and wrought iron typical of Art Deco ornamentation.

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On the back, the three engraved  bridges feature a motif reminiscent of the decorations on New York skyscrapers at the turn of the 20^th century, with the added challenge of creating an uninterrupted pattern despite the break between the bridges. It took one month to complete these three components, not counting the bas-relief engraving on the case middle done by the master artisan and extending to the motif created on the back of the movement through a striking play of light and shade accentuated by the depth of the relief. 

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The technique used consists of removing material to bring out the contours of the engraving. After drawing the motifs with a scriber, the master artisan uses the pounced ornament technique, which involves intricate chasing using a scorper, a kind of wider-tipped burin. As the sculpture becomes progressively slimmer, the tool itself becomes thinner. Particularly suited to three-dimensional creations where volumes have little depth, this technique provides scope for breathtakingly accurate details, further enhanced by the finishing. This is the first time that the bridges of Calibre 1990 have been engraved.

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Finally, the folding clasp securing the black alligator leather strap of this 45 mm-diameter model was also engraved with Art Deco motifs.

Calibre 1990, a movement featuring historical references

Protected by four patents, Calibre 1990 has benefited from the technical developments made on the Les Cabinotiers Reference 57260 watch, the world's most complex timepiece to date with its 57 complications.

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A manual-winding movement with a 58-hour power reserve, Calibre 1990 features an instantaneous bi-retrograde display of the time indications and a bi-axial armillary tourbillon with spherical balance-spring. The time can be read on the right-hand side thanks to a retrograde display with grade 5 titanium hands moving over a semi-circular track punctuated by Roman numerals for the hours and Arabic numerals for the minutes. Confined to a wide flange, this track reveals part of the movement, reinforcing the technical appearance of the timepiece already accentuated by the construction of the regulator.

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The configuration of Calibre 1990 frees up the left-hand part of the dial, which is exclusively occupied by the bi-axial armillary tourbillon positioned at 9 o'clock beneath a bubble formed by the sapphire crystal. The distinctive feature of this regulator – oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and bearing the small seconds hand – is its dual-axis construction with two interlocking aluminium carriages, each rotating at a speed of 60 seconds. At the heart of the tourbillon is a cylindrical balance-spring with no terminal curve, whose perfectly concentric beating ensures greater isochronism and therefore enhanced precision, in addition to the beneficial effect of the regulator's rotation, which neutralises the effects of Earth's gravity.

Each of these two technical developments has its own historical reference. The tourbillon owes its name ‘armillary’ to Antide Janvier, astronomer and watchmaker by appointment to King Louis XVI, one of whose greatest masterpieces was a moving sphere with a planetary wheel known as an armillary. The cylindrical balance-spring dates back to Jacques-Frédéric Houriet's invention in 1814 and is coupled here with an escapement featuring an escape-wheel in silicon with diamond-polished pallets, materials boasting a very low friction coefficient and requiring no lubrication.

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Four patents mark the technical innovations of Calibre 1990. These relate firstly to the instantaneous retrograde system, controlled by a single minutes cam that perfectly synchronises the jump of the two hands at midnight or noon. The patented escapement collet – a component securing the inner end of the balance-spring – is made of titanium. This material matches that of the regulating organ, resulting in improved regulatory performance. The third patent concerns the architecture of the tourbillon carriage, which rotates every 15 seconds to form the Vacheron Constantin Maltese cross emblem. The final patent covers the silicon escape-wheel, with its diamond-polished pallets offering greater resistance to wear and friction.

Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages series

Vacheron Constantin's vocation has always been to perfect the art of watchmaking in Geneva while remaining open to the world. The founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron (1787-1864) was the first to criss-cross the roads of France and Italy, followed by his partner François Constantin (1788-1854), a tireless traveller who oversaw the commercial development of the Maison. He established commercial relations with Central Europe, South America, Scandinavia and Asia, during a period in time when Vacheron Constantin was also gaining a foothold in the United States and China, as well as in Brazil, Hong Kong and Cuba.

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François Constantin's correspondence stretching over a quarter of a century paints the portrait of a Manufacture that was open to a Europe undergoing major restructuring in the aftermath of the Napoleonic Wars and the Congress of Vienna. This scope and reach continued to expand as the Vacheron Constantin name crossed borders and conquered new markets. Since that time, the very notion of travel has been inherent to the values of the Maison, an integral part of the human adventure characterising its nearly 270-year history. Following in its founders’ footsteps, the Maison offers these Récits de Voyages series as a watchmaking odyssey through the world and its wonders, applying craftsmanship and mechanical art as its means of expression.

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SUM-UP

The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon – Tribute to Art Deco style watch represents the Americas within the Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages collection, which symbolises Vacheron Constantin's spirit of openness to the world since the dawn of the 19^th century. This highly technical timepiece, measuring 45 mm in diameter and bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, is powered by Calibre 1990. This in-house movement features an open architecture conducive to the finishing, engraving and guilloché work. Several engraving techniques are used on this timepiece: the case middle and lugs, along with the movement components, mainplate and bridges, have been delicately sculpted in bas-relief, as well as guilloche-worked chased and rounded off by hand. 

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The motifs are Art Deco-inspired, reminiscent of the ornamentation on the New York skyscrapers built at the dawn of the 20^th century. Manual-winding Calibre 1990 benefits from the developments made on Vacheron Constantin's single-piece edition Reference 57260 – the world’s most complicated watch to date – to display the hours and minutes by means of bi-retrograde instant-return hands and the small seconds on the dual-axis armillary tourbillon. This is the first time that Vacheron Constantin has performed engraving work of this kind on this movement.

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Interview with Sandrine Donguy, Product & Innovation Director

To symbolise the Americas in the new Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages collection, you are presenting a timepiece that reflects technical sophistication. Why not opt for a solid dial that is eminently conducive to artistic crafts?

In the range of single-piece editions representing the American leg focuses on our Récits de Voyages, we wanted to include a highly technical, highly structured watch. The intention was to draw architectural inspiration from the early 20^th century Art Deco-style New York skyscrapers. The choice was therefore for a watch with an openworked dial that would provide a chance to admire the structure of its movement. With this in mind, the ornamentation of the timepiece could only be done by drawing on the dexterity and creativity of our master artisans. 

The approach is similar to the one that led us to choose a Malte Tourbillon skeleton model to reflect Baron Haussmann's urban planning projects in Paris. As the artisans’ work on this armillary tourbillon timepiece is performed directly in the material, we also had to play on the tones and colours to bring out the power of the decoration. We therefore accentuated the contrasts between the color of the case and bridges and the deep black of the openworked mainplate on the front, obtained by galvanic treatment. To avoid disturbing this vision which is at once subtle when it comes to the engraved dial motifs and powerful in terms of the movement’s highly technical nature, we opted for a bevelled bezel that was perfectly smooth and polished. The engraver's art is expressed on the case middle by a bas-relief frieze that extends to the lugs and is then repeated on the bridges at the back.

You mentioned the armillary tourbillon in this model. Could you be more specific?

Calibre 1990 is a movement that has benefited from certain developments made for the Reference 57260 – the world’s most complicated watch to date presented in 2015 to mark the Manufacture’s 260^th anniversary – and these include this spherical armillary tourbillon. It is a dual-axis tourbillon with carriages rotating at a rate of one turn per minute so as to provide a small seconds indication. The name ‘armillary’ refers to astronomical spheres used to model the celestial sphere in order to display the apparent movement of the stars, the sun and the ecliptic within the geocentric theory of the universe. Antide Janvier, one of the most eminent 19^th century horologists, produced several examples that made their mark on history. Without going into all the astronomical details of these constructions, it was above all the appearance of these spheres that caught our attention, with the highly complex assembly of several rotating 'armillare' rings used for the various astronomical indications, similar to our dual-axis tourbillon. In terms of technical developments, it should also be noted that Calibre 1990 has been the subject of four patent applications relating to the instantaneous retrograde system, the attachment of the balance-spring, the diamond-polished pallet-lever and the multi-carriage tourbillon system.

Do you have any other 'American' references in terms of complicated watches?

Definitely and they are among Vacheron Constantin's most prestigious. By the early 20^th century, Vacheron Constantin had built a solid reputation for producing ultra-complicated pocket watches.

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At that time, manufacturer James Ward Packard and banker Henry Graves Jr, both great American timepiece collectors, were engaged in a perfectly friendly joust to see who would own the most complicated watch. As part of this competition, Vacheron Constantin created a watch for James Packard, completed in 1919, incorporating a unique combination of complications including a chronograph, Grande and Petite Sonneries along with quarter and half-quarter repeater. 

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The movement was housed in a finely chased gold case with a personalised rock crystal glass. At the same time, Vacheron Constant developed the American 1921 watch, a timepiece that set new standards with its offbeat style. Through this timepiece, Vacheron Constantin was no longer targeting only the great American families of industrialists and financiers, but all those who were prepared to break the rules at the height of the Prohibition era.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Collection: Les Cabinotiers

Model: Armillary Tourbillon – Tribute to Art Deco Style

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 Reference    9860C/000J-090C  

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement                                                 
Calibre  1990
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin Mechanical manual-winding
35.50 mm diameter, 10 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 58 hours
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
299 components
45 jewels
Front bridges: Black hand-guilloché radiant pattern
Back bridges: hand-engraved geometric pattern
Indications  

• Retrograde hours and minute
• Small seconds on tourbillon
• Armillary tourbillon

Case                                                  
18K 3N hand-engraved yellow gold
45 mm diameter, 20.10 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial                                                     
Black
Strap                                                 
 Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp                                                  
18K 3N hand-engraved yellow gold folding clasp

 Presentation box & accessory                 
Les Cabinotiers special BOX

Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique », « Les Cabinotiers » and « AC » hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece

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Press Release - 2023
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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