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Their
conversations drifted naturally to the forefathers of horology, and
eventually, to the enigmatic Sympathique mechanism. What began as an
exchange of ideas slowly evolved into a quiet ambition: to reimagine one
of horology’s most audacious creations, but through a contemporary
lens.
This
“philosophical, technical, and deeply personal” alignment would
eventually take shape with an invitation to join the committee of
experts of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize in 2022 and the launch of the
secret project code name “Phase 3” with the development over the past
five years of the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project.
The Tambour case dressed in De Bethune Blue
The LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius is housed in Louis Vuitton’s signature
Tambour Taiko case. Crafted in polished titanium, the case is blued
using De Bethune’s proprietary thermal oxidation process, achieving a
deep, vibrant colour—an emblematic material treatment of the independent
manufacture.
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The surface comes alive with shifting reflections,
creating a dynamic interplay of light that underscores the union of
Louis Vuitton’s distinctive silhouette and
De Bethune’s technical
savoir-faire.
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Encircling the dial, the Tambour bezel features the twelve
Louis Vuitton letters,
sandblasted into the surface and polished individually, offering a
subtle yet unmistakable signature.
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This graphic clarity is echoed in the
hand-finished crown, which bears
Louis Vuitton’s iconic Monogram Flower
and combines polished, sandblasted, and satin-brushed finishes.
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Beyond
its visual identity, the crown serves as a point of connection with the
Sympathique system, reinforcing the watch’s functional dialogue with the
“Sympathique” clock.
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The
blued-titanium case is contrasted by platinum lugs, whose brilliance
heightens the depth of the blue while emphasising the architectural form
of the watch. Each lug is hand-polished, with laser bead-blasted
interiors that introduce a discreet textural contrast—an expression of
meticulous attention to detail at every angle.
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Turning
the watch over reveals an open case back, offering an unobstructed view
of the
DB2507LV calibre.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO A tasteful nod to the collaboration, “Louis
cruises with Denis” is engraved on the movement, alongside the
individual limited-edition number, from 01 of 12 to 12 of 12—an intimate
signature marking the exclusivity of the project.
The Movement: calibrated to the Art of Travel
At the heart of the wristwatch lies De Bethune’s Calibre DB2507LV, a
manual-winding movement offering a five-day power reserve. Meticulously
crafted and assembled in the De Bethune workshops in Sainte-Croix, the
movement combines advanced engineering with traditional savoir-faire.
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Conceived for travel, the movement displays hours and minutes, a second
time zone (GMT), a day/night indication, and a jumping date—functions
tailored to the needs of the modern voyager and aligned with
Louis
Vuitton’s enduring Art of Travel.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
This sophisticated calibre is further
enriched by a unique
Sympathique function, enabling the watch to be automatically rewound and reset if placed within its companion clock.
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It is
regulated by a blued-titanium balance wheel, manually poised with
white-gold inserts and paired with a balance spring featuring a flat
terminal curve, ensuring both stability and precision.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO A silicon escape
wheel and
De Bethune’s proprietary triple pare-chute shock-absorption
system further enhance chronometric performance.
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The
movement’s architecture is elevated by ultra refined hand-finishing
throughout.
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A hand-polished titanium deltoid bridge and a hand-finished,
polished balance bridge frame the mechanism, while the surfaces are
adorned with
Microlight Côtes de Bethune — a contemporary reinvention of
traditional
Côtes de Genève, distinguished by its nuanced patterns and engraving angles that subtly capture and reflect light at the heart of the calibre.
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At the
conclusion of the manufacturing process, each
LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius
undergoes its final and most exacting quality control, personally
overseen by Master Watchmaker
Denis Flageollet.
The Dial: where Cosmos meets Savoir-Faire
The dial reflects a shared vision shaped by exploration, precision,
and the infinite. Drawing on Denis Flageollet’s enduring dialogue with
nature and the cosmos, De Bethune’s signature celestial language—its
Milky Way motif—is reinterpreted for Louis Vuitton.
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At its
centre, a unique map of stars discreetly aligns to reveal the letters
“
LV,” integrated into the constellation as a defining signature of the
collaboration. The celestial surface is produced using an exclusive
artisanal process developed at the
De Bethune Manufacture.
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White-gold
pins are individually set by hand into micro-perforations of varying
sizes, creating depth and luminosity across the dial. The composition is
further enriched by the hand-application of fine gold leaf by a
decorative artisan at the
De Bethune workshops.
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Surrounding
the dial, a spherical day-and-night indicator completes two full
rotations every 24 hours, offering a continuous and intuitive reading of
time across zones.
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Based on
De Bethune’s patented spherical moon-phase
construction, the indicator is crafted in 5N rose gold (indicating the
day) and flame-blued steel (indicating the night), its deep blue hue
achieved using a traditional alcohol lamp.
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Polished
indexes and
Tambour-style numerals reinforce
Louis Vuitton’s design
codes, while the opaline dial surface enhances legibility and plays with
light in subtle ways.
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Faceted hands—particularly challenging to
execute—echo the deep blue tones of both the dial and the case,
completing a composition in which two visions of watchmaking converge,
born of the inspired encounter between Denis Flageollet and Matthieu
Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
The Strap and Buckle: imagined for audacious travelers
The LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius wristwatch is offered with two
interchangeable straps, each expressing a distinct facet of the
collaboration.
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A blue fabric strap with grey edging introduces a
contemporary, technical character, contrasted by a black leather lining
that ensures comfort and durability on the wrist. In parallel, an
extra-soft cognac alligator strap —fully lined in alligator leather and
finished with tone-on-tone stitching—embodies a more classic expression
of refinement, highlighting the artisanal savoir-faire shared by both
Houses
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Both
straps are secured by a polished blued titanium pin buckle, whose deep
hue echoes the case’s thermal treatment. The polished titanium tongue is
engraved with the double
Louis Vuitton /
De Bethune signature, a
discreet yet powerful emblem of the
unique encounter between the two
Houses.
The LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius:
a one-of-a-kind reinterpretation of a Watchmaking Icon
First conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795 as a way to
automatically synchronise a portable pocket watch with a more precise
master clock, the Sympathique is a marvel of horology.
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The
clock’s mechanism enabled owners to wind their pocket watch overnight
and retrieve it fully reset in the morning. While only five such clocks
were made during
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s lifetime, the idea was further
refined by his own son and has fascinated generations of watchmakers—not
heirs in name, but descendants of
A.-L. Breguet’s vision—ever since.
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It’s a
clock that has long fascinated
Denis Flageollet, who—two centuries after
A.-L. Breguet—was among the first to successfully revisit the concept.
In the early
1990s, he played a pivotal role in creating a modern
interpretation for
Breguet’s eponymous brand, transforming the original
pocket watch into a tourbillon wristwatch with a constant-force
remontoir for greater precision, while introducing a series of technical
refinements without compromising the spirit of its founder.
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More than
thirty years later,
Louis Vuitton and
De Bethune have embraced the
challenge of reimagining this historic clock, approaching it as an
exercise in continuity as much as innovation.
“This project is about dialogue—between people, between ideas,
between centuries of watchmaking tradition. To revisit the “Sympathique”
is to revisit watchmaking’s rich history, while writing a new chapter
for the future.” — Jean Arnault.
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At the
heart of the
LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius is a key-wound movement
manufactured entirely by
De Bethune. Comprising 763 components and
equipped with two large barrels and a remontoir d’égalité, the in-house
calibre delivers outstanding stability and autonomy. Beating at 18,000
vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), it offers an impressive 11-day power
reserve.
The
design of the LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius draws directly from the
iconic codes of Louis Vuitton’s Tambour line. The minute track, inspired
by the Tambour’s signature bezel, replaces the traditional “Louis
Vuitton” lettering with twelvehour indexes, reinforcing the timekeeping
function while preserving the model’s distinctive identity. Completing
the display, two triangular hands emerge from the central “Milky Way”
dial to indicate the hours and the minutes.
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Anchored
to a titanium base that is decorated with a marquetry of blued
meteorite, the
LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius is secured by a tilt
lock in its fixed cradle. The clock can be set in multiple orientations,
a reference to the adjustable presentation of historical marine
chronometers. In its reference position, mirroring a marine chronometer,
the clock measures 310 mm in width, 266 mm in depth, and 260 mm in
height. When inclined, its maximum height extends to 313 mm, offering
versatility in display. While
Denis Flageollet has not produced a
traditional marine chronometer, the
LVDB-03 SYMPATHIQUE LOUIS VARIUS
reflects that heritage through its considered architecture and display.
The
docking interface—the key to the Sympathique function —is discreetly
concealed beneath a domed, engraved cover on the upper tier of the
clock. Crafted in rose gold, the dome is adorned with the constellation
of Hercules, a subtle reference to the astrological sign of Louis
Vuitton’s founder.
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When
placed in its cradle, the
LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius engages the clock
through its crown. Over the course of 10 hours, the system automatically
winds the watch and every two hours, a dedicated mechanism housed at
the back of the timepiece resets its display to match the master clock,
bringing the two into synchrony.
This
reinterpretation of the Sympathique represents the most advanced
mechanical synchronization mechanism. It builds not only on Denis
Flageollet’s earlier work but on De Bethune’s 23 years of innovation
across regulating organs and energy transfer systems.
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Notably,
the
LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius can be rewound in as little as one night,
when the watch is regularly paired with the clock. Innovations extend to
the clock itself: unlike previous Sympathique iterations, the
LVDB-03
Sympathique Louis Varius allows the watch to dock without removing its
bracelet or performing any preparatory steps. The user needs only
unbuckle the strap and place the watch directly into the receptacle. It
is a seamless, intuitive gesture.
The LVDB03 GMT Louis Varius Wristwatch: a unique creation, born of shared vision
The LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius wristwatch is the first Sympathique
wristwatch designed specifically to journey far from its host. In
earlier examples, the portable watch was intended to be worn
briefly—either in the pocket or on a wrist—and then returned to the
Sympathique clock for winding. This model reinterprets that
relationship.
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Thanks to an extended five-day power reserve and
travel-oriented complications, the
GMT Louis Varius offers greater
freedom as a watch designed to remain with the wearer over longer
journeys.
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Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
De Bethune – CURRENT DB25 GMT Starry Varius Titanium (2021)
Created jointly by De Bethune and La Fabrique du Temps Louis
Vuitton, the watch combines the expertise of two great manufacturers.
Its design builds on De Bethune’s 👉 DB25 GMT Starry Varius, while
incorporating core elements of Louis Vuitton’s high-end watchmaking
collection.
A Herculean Undertaking
The LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius represents an engineering feat
of rare ambition. Comprising just two complete sets —each consisting of
one monumental clock and an accompanying wristwatch—along with ten
additional wristwatches sold separately, the production scale is
extremely limited.
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Yet behind each set is an enormous collaborative
ecosystem in
Saint-Croix—stretching from the
“Institut de la Mécanique
d’Art” to the
De Bethune manufacture.
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“From the very beginning, it seemed obvious to me to create a set
centred around travel for this project. So, I imagined using our GMT
model along with a charming clock inspired by the spirit of the gimbal
system used in marine chronometers, which cancels out the motion of the
waves during sea voyages." — Denis Flageollet.
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To
execute one of the clock’s most poetic components,
Denis Flageollet
turned to
François Schuiten, the acclaimed Belgian illustrator known for
his imaginative, speculative worlds. A long-time collaborator of
Denis
Flageollet,
François Schuiten has also worked with
Louis Vuitton in the
past, notably providing the illustrations for
Mars by
Sylvain Tesson for
the
House Travel Book collection.
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A recent exhibition of
François
Schuiten’s work — an evocative exploration of time — ultimately led to his
invitation to join the project.
A unique vision of the art of travel by Louis Vuitton, as imagined by François Schuiten
Drawing inspiration from early 19th-century dioramas, François
Schuiten has created three landscapes featuring immersive scenes of
exploration—including a steam train barrelling.
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Across a
viaduct, hot air balloons floating above the African savanna, and
sherpas ascending steep mountains. These miniature worlds encircle the
mechanism and rotate slowly. The result is a perpetually evolving
dreamscape suggesting that time is not linear but circular—cyclical,
surreal, and sublime. Each moment of the day tells a unique story.
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To
fashion these intricate illustrations on three separate
5N rose gold
rings,
Denis Flageollet enlisted master engraver
Michèle Rothen. Her
task was monumental: over one meter of hand-engraved surface, with each
line pulled from
François Schuiten’s original pen drawings.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Using a
traditional burin and chisel,
Michèle Rothen sculpted the entire
panorama by hand, with results that rival the decorative clocks of the
Late Renaissance.
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“This project, which embodies the spirit of travel so dear to
Louis Vuitton, brings together the horological masterpieces of the
Renaissance through its sculpted tambour forms, the precision of line by
François, nicknamed the watchmaker of dreams, the exceptional
craftsmanship of Michèle, Jean's passion for the scientific research of
the Enlightenment, and my love for onboard chronometry." — Denis Flageollet.
The trunks: time travels in Louis Vuitton
Two distinct types of exceptional trunks have been meticulously
crafted for the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project. First, a trunk inspired by
the emblematic Louis Vuitton Trophy Trunks has been designed and
crafted to house the LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius clock. This unique
titanium trunk represents the apex of rarity, making it among the most
exclusive objects ever produced by Louis Vuitton Asnières ateliers.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Second,
for the
LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius wristwatches, a dedicated titanium High
Watchmaking trunk has been crafted in the same standard. These
individual watch trunks echo the exceptional materials and savoir-faire
of the larger “Trophy Trunk”, ensuring consistent craftmanship across
the entire collection. Furthermore, within each of these individual High
Watchmaking trunks, a custom leather travel pouch is included,
specifically designed for the
LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius, offering an
additional layer of protection and elegance for the audacious traveller.
Conceived
and crafted by the House’s master artisans in Asnières, the bespoke
Louis Vuitton trunks are custom-built in polished titanium, a material
chosen for both its rarity and the technical challenge it presents.
Titanium corner protectors heat-blued by De Bethune and developed
exclusively for this project, articulate their structures, while
palladium lozines—echoed in the lock—punctuate the exteriors with
measured restraint.
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Inside,
the trunks reveal a precisely organised interior in
Alcantara® and grey
leather, with dedicated compartments for the Sympathique clock or
wristwatch, and their respective accessories.
At the
intersection of past and future, the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project
redefines one of horology’s most ingenious endeavours and delivers an
enduring statement on innovation, imagination, and celebrate the Art of
Travel.
==========================
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model: Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
Reference: WATI11
Case• Tambour Taiko-shaped case in blued titanium, lugs and crown in platinum, adjuster in titanium: 53 components
• Hand-polished and blued case, sandblasted blued bezel with polished letters, hollowed lugs with mirror-polished & sandblasted finishes
• Diameter: 45 mm / Thickness: 14.05 mm
• Between lugs: 21 mm
• Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 meters) – the watch is splash-resistant but should not be immersed
• Domed sapphire crystal with colorless anti-reflective coating
Dial • 12-hour disc (local time)
• Second time zone disc (24-hour format), day/night indication by 18K rose gold and blued steel sphere
• Central dial in blued titanium,
Louis Vuitton constellation with 18K white gold pins and golden leaves, sun in 18K rose gold
• Diamond-cut brass blue PVD hour and minute hands, diamond-cut brass blue PVD date hand with silvered arrow
Movement• Manual-winding mechanical movement (
caliber DB2507LV) manufactured
by
De Bethune with double self-regulating barrel, titanium balance wheel,
«
De Bethune » balance spring with flat terminal curve, silicon escape wheel,
triple shock-absorbing system (
De Bethune patents)
• 5-day power reserve
• Functions: hours, minutes, second time zone (GMT), sympathique function,
day/night indicator, jumping date
• 404 components, 40 jewels
• Rhodium-plated brass main plate and bridges, polished titanium barrel bridge cover
with côtes
De Bethune microlight decoration, and polished titanium mainplate cover
• Manufactured wheels in gilded brass or steel
• Diameter: 30 mm / Thickness: 10.35 mm
• Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour, titanium balance with 18K white gold inserts
Functions Hours, minutes, second time zone (GMT), sympathique function, day/night indicator, jumping date
Strap and buckle • Two straps:
- Fabric strap: blue fabric with grey edging on top, black leather lining
- Exo strap: extra-soft cognac alligator with alligator lining, tone on tone stitching
• Polished and blued titanium buckle, polished titanium tongue with double
Louis Vuitton/
De Bethune signatur
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