Louis Vuitton – TAMBOUR Moon Saphir Tourbillon Volant Poincon de Geneve Frank Gehry Edition

Louis Vuitton – Artistic Craft Watches TAMBOUR Moon Saphir Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève Frank Gehry Watch Edition 2024

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The result of an exceptional collaboration between the Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and the great architect Frank Gehry, this piece of Haute Horlogerie features a unique design inspired by the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris and the Maison Louis Vuitton in Seoul, two major works by Gehry. Absolutely transparent, the spectacular architecture of this watch gives a total vision of the flying tourbillon caliber manufactured and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva.

After creating the Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris in 2014 and the Louis Vuitton House in Seoul in 2019, Frank Gehry agreed to take on a new challenge: creating the first Haute Horlogerie watch of his career. Two years of discussions between the House and the famous architect were necessary for the Tambour Moon Saphir Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Frank Gehry to see the light of day.

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Pushing transparency to its peak while respecting the architectural spirit of the Canadian master on a mechanical object whose diameter does not exceed 43.8 millimeters proved to be an eminently complex exercise. Thus, to design the dial of this flying tourbillon watch, Frank Gehry was inspired by his work for the Maison Louis Vuitton in Seoul where he imagined an undulating glass structure which seemed to float weightlessly on the roof of the building.
 
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In order to concentrate this signature which is both powerful and light, a poetic echo of the movement of boat sails, the architect had a large format photo of the Tambour Moon Saphir watch launched in 2022 printed in large format, the paper of which he then crumpled to create the dial of this new model.

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Like the glass vessel he built for the Louis Vuitton Foundation, the architect imagined a mini watchmaking construction that could offer the same aerial impression and the same perspective effects but on a miniature scale.

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“My inspiration comes from the world of the sea, fish, boats, nautical because they embody the notion of movement, mobility, speed,” confided the architect on the occasion of the inauguration of the Maison Louis Vuitton in Seoul. “I like to express movement, to breathe this dynamism into static materials. »

High transparency

To transpose this architectural signature into a piece of Haute Horlogerie, the choice of sapphire was essential for the creation of the case and dial. This transparent material makes it possible to create this curved relief and obtain these plays of textures and light dear to Frank Gehry. It is from a single block of 200 kilo sapphire that Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton shaped the crystalline face of this entirely transparent Tambour Moon. The case, the dial, the crown, the horns and the hands were cut from this material, the hardness of which remains the highest in the world after that of diamond.

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As for the dial, one of the most difficult that La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has had to create, it is akin to a true miniature sculpture, no thicker than a sheet of paper: 250 hours of work were necessary to its sole production. In this hard-to-work material, the artisans sculpted then reworked by hand the shape and reliefs imagined by Frank Gehry, which recall those of his architectural works.
 

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By borrowing some of its tools from the medical industry, the dial makers have reproduced the asymmetrical volumes and curved volutes which characterize the architect's style with know-how of incredible precision, particularly in the creation of satin finishes and matte. For this ultra-delicate work, the craftsmen of the Fabrique du Temps used diamond powder and a diamond bur to mattify certain areas, taking care to take regular breaks so that the material is not too sensitized by the heat or the tool vibrations.

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Furthermore, because of its extreme finesse, the dial could not be placed on a support but had to be held by the sole hand of the craftsman, who worked with a binocular, playing with the light and checking with naked eye that the areas were well matted in all angles.

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Thus, these extremely sophisticated sapphire finishes made it possible to increase the play of light while drawing the eye to the tourbillon movement, which deploys its own radiance. The hands, also in sapphire, feature luminescent contours to make it easier to read the time at night.

A caliber set in majesty

As if pushed by the wind, the glass sails emblematic of the architect's work are found at the heart of the Tambour Moon Saphir Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève. 

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The first watch with a sapphire case and dial to bear the Hallmark of Geneva, this Tambour Moon is powered by the LFT MM05.01 flying tourbillon manufacture movement entirely created, developed and assembled by the master watchmakers of Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva.

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This architectural masterpiece in sapphire crystal reveals, on all sides, the beauty of the workings with beveling and satin finishes carried out on the tiniest of its components. To accentuate the contrasts, the finely openworked caliber is two-tone. The plate is in concentrically satin-finished solid rose gold and the gears and flying tourbillon are rhodium-plated. Equipped with a power reserve of 80 hours, this manually wound mechanical movement features a Monogram Flower in the tourbillon cage, which completes one revolution in one minute.

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On the back of the case appears the signature of Frank Gehry. It reminds us how the Tambour Moon Saphir Flying Tourbillon Poinçon is unique and carries within it the values of audacity and innovation of Louis Vuitton, magnified today by the mastery of a visionary architect.

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About Louis Vuitton  

Since 1854, Louis Vuitton has offered unique creations, where technical innovation is combined with the requirement of style while striving for the highest quality. The House remains faithful to the spirit of Louis, its founder and inventor of the " Art of travel ”. Its luggage, bags and accessories were as innovative as they were elegant and ingenious. Even today, daring dictates the history of Louis Vuitton. Faithful to its heritage, the Maison has opened its doors to architects, artists and designers while investing in new areas of expression such as ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, watches, jewelry, and even perfume. . These products, produced with great care, attest to Louis Vuitton’s commitment to high quality craftsmanship.

==================================
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: TAMBOUR Moon Saphir Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève Frank Gehry Edition

 

Case: 
Sapphire case, lugs and crown
Signature of Frank Gehry on the back of the box
Diameter: 43.8mm
Thickness: 11.27mm
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial
Sapphire, polished and mattified by hand, inspired by Frank Gehry’s architectural works
Sapphire hands, outline in HyCeram® Luminex (luminescent pigments)
Movement
Calibre LFTMM05.01: mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
    “Poinçon de Genève” certification, visible on the central bridge
Functions: Skeleton Flying Tourbillon, hours and minutes, Monogram Flower Tourbillon cage rotating in one minute
    160 components
    80 hours of power reserve
    21,600 vibrations per hour
    17 jewels
Strap
White taurillon leather strap
Buckle Rose gold folding buckle
Clasp: Rose gold folding clasp 

 🔰 Limited editionof ✅ 5 pieces
 🔴Price  USD 935.000 $ / € 934.500 💰

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Press releases - 2024
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Akrivia X Louis Vuitton LVRR-01 Chronographe a Sonnerie Edition

AkriviA X Louis Vuitton – REXHEP REXHEPI   LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie Platinium Limited Edition 2023

The LVRR-01 is a comprehensive meditation on the nature of time: a precision chronometer equipped with a tourbillon regulator that indicates the current time, but also an instrument that measures elapsed time, while marking for the first time in the watch industry, the passing of time with a sonnerie mechanism. The chronograph functions of start, stop, and reset are controlled by the pusher at two o’clock. However, the chronograph boasts the addition of an acoustic reminder of elapsed time, with a single chime struck as each minute passes. Clear and musical in tone, the chime is sounded by a black-polished steel hammer striking a tempered steel gong, developed at Atelier Akrivia.

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Following the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives announced in early 2023, Louis Vuitton is embarking on a series of collaborative timepieces with renowned independent watchmakers, with the inaugural project being the LVRR-01 Chronographe a Sonnerie born from the collaboration between Atelier Akrivia and Louis Vuitton.

Embodying the essence of both Maisons, the LVRR-01 is a double-faced chronograph with a chiming complication - true statement in the watch industry - powered by a completely new tourbillon movement developed from the ground up by Atelier Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi in a redesigned Louis Vuitton Tambour case.

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The fundamental concept of the LVRR-01 is encapsulated in the emblem on the sapphire dial. At a distance it appears to be the conventional logo, but up close the emblem reveals itself to be a union of the two brand names, with "LV" subtly incorporated into "AKRIVIA". This represents the first time in history that Louis Vuitton has combined its logo with that of another brand.

Louis cruises with Rexhep

The LVRR-01 seamlessly unites two houses, Louis Vuitton and Atelier Akrivia, that are separated by time but like- minded in passion. Both Maisons were founded more than 150 years apart yet share core values, particularly in their approach to craftsmanship, and they have in common founders who are visionaries and artisans.

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Born in 1821 in a town not far from the Swiss border, Louis Vuitton moved to Paris as a teenager, where he became an apprentice to one of the noted trunk makers of the day. He soon made a name for himself as an expert crafter of cases and trunks, gaining clients like the Empress of France. In 1854, he set up his eponymous atelier and became so successful that he eventually moved to larger premises in Asnières, where the Louis Vuitton trunkmaking atelier remains to this day.

History, as the saying goes, never repeats, but rhymes. Rexhep Rexhepi left his native Kosovo for Geneva as a teenager and shortly after took up an apprenticeship at a High Watchmaking atelier aged just 14. In 2012, he set up his own brand, Atelier Akrivia, with the conviction of producing watches in the grand tradition of Haute Horlogerie.

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The shared passion for fine watchmaking set in motion events that would lead to the creation of the LVRR-01, which emerged around the conception of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives.

A union of historic complications

The LVRR-01 is a comprehensive meditation on the nature of time: a precision chronometer equipped with a tourbillon regulator that indicates the current time, but also an instrument that measures elapsed time, while marking for the first time in the watch industry, the passing of time with a sonnerie mechanism.

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These complications are showcased with an ingenious two-sided display that symbolises the collaborative development of the LVRR-01. The contemporary front dial in tinted sapphire crystal juxtaposed against a traditional face on the reverse in white grand feu enamel, together an allegory representing perfectly the identity of both Maisons.

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The complications are a testimony to the histories of Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi. The very first Atelier Akrivia timepiece, the AK-01, incorporated both the chronograph and tourbillon, while the first complicated Louis Vuitton watch, the Tambour LV277, was a chronograph, and the Maison’s first Haute Horlogerie complication was the tourbillon.

A case making legend

A platinum case, which is a perfect match of Louis Vuitton’s signature Tambour imbued with the stylistic and technical touches of Rexhep Rexhepi, particularly in the thin, classical form of the case. 

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The LVRR-01 translates the drum-shaped form of the Tambour into a reinterpreted, streamlined form distinguished by a tall, sloping bezel and elegantly sculpted lugs that draw on mid-century gentlemen’s wristwatches. The case is made by Atelier Akrivia in a process overseen by Jean-Pierre Hagmann, the Master casemaker in its case-making workshop – the discreet “JHP” hallmark on the lower-right lug is his personal seal of quality.

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The tinted dial reveals the magnificent architecture and decoration on the wrist at all times.

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Even concealed components of the LVRR-01 are decorated with the highest level of craftsmanship, such as with Côtes de Genève.

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Rexhep Rexhepi perfects the bridge terminations of the LVRR-01 calibre.

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In another tastefuldetail alluding to the collaboration,“Louis cruises with Rexhep” is engraved on the case back, a calligraphic dedication to this unique encounter. 

Pushing the boundaries of High Watchmaking

Within the LVRR-01 is a wholly-new calibre developed entirely by Rexhep Rexhepi. In his characteristic aesthetics, the movement is eminently traditional, a quality exemplified by the hand-applied decoration and gracefully-shaped chronograph levers.

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The exceptional double-faced dial of the LVRR-01 called for an equally unusual approach to the movement. Compared with conventional movements, the LVRR-01 calibre is inverted, with the chronograph and chiming mechanisms visible on the front instead of being on the back. This allows the magnificent architecture and decoration to be admired on the wrist at all times.

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The tinted sapphire dial reveals the fine finishing of the components, every single one of which is decorated by hand with traditional techniques like anglage, and black polishing.

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Taking pride of place on the front at six o'clock is the tourbillon that completes one revolution every five minutes and designed by Rexhep Rexhepi in its characteristic respect for the horological history. In contrast to the one-minute rotation of a conventional tourbillon, the five-minute rotation is in the spirit of historical chronometers. Inside the tourbillon cage is a balance wheel with twin broad arms and eight inertial regulating weights, inspired by those found in marine chronometers.

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The defining and unique aspect of the movement is the Chronographe a Sonnerie, a pair of complications never before integrated in this way within a wristwatch. While the combination of elapsed time measurement with a striking mechanism has historical precedent in pocket watches, it is a true statement in contemporary watchmaking.

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The chronograph functions of start, stop, and reset are controlled by the pusher at two o'clock. However, the chronograph boasts the addition of an acoustic reminder of elapsed time, with a single chime struck as each minute passes. Clear and musical in tone, the chime is sounded by a black-polished steel hammer striking a tempered steel gong, developed at Atelier Akrivia that emits a single harmonious note to signify the passage of 60 seconds.

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Integrating the two complications, the chronograph and the sonnerie in addition to the tourbillon, required ingenuity in both engineering and execution, as this systems should work in synergy and each need enough energy to function.

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Rexhep Rexhepi devised a concise solution of twin barrels, one power source for the timekeeping portion of the movement and the chronograph and another for the chime, but with a twist. While the standard approach would have been to segregate the barrels and allow them to run independently, Rexhep Rexhepi has devised a construction in which the second barrel is linked to the gear train in a particular way.

Many faces of time

The individual and distinctive aesthetic codes of Rexhep Rexhepi and Louis Vuitton are unmistakeable on the two dials yet coherently integrated into a perfect whole.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  Cleanly styled yet lavishly decorated, the front dial is eminently modern, mirroring the contemporary aspect of Louis Vuitton. The disc of tinted sapphire crystal features a gilt-metallised minute track that brings to mind the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain (RRCC I & II). The dial has six gold cubes filled with translucent fired enamel, a technique akin to stained glass known as plique-à-jour.

In contrast, the reverse face is resolutely classical in glossy white grand feu enamel, a tribute to traditional measuring instruments – it was designed by Rexhep Rexhepi. Bringing to 19th century chronograph pocket watches, the enamel dial features twin scales for the hours and minutes respectively, both printed in enamel. But the keen-eyed will notice the design of the enamel dial carries the spirit of the first-ever wristwatch made by Louis Vuitton in 1988.

Both brand names bisect the enamel dial horizontally, reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch in style and in substance. While the white-gold disc for the dial base is produced by Atelier Akrivia, the enamelling is completed by the in-house enamel atelier led by Nicolas Doublel.

 Visionaries and Artisans

The LVRR-01 is delivered in a unique Louis Vuitton traditional trunk. Made specifically for each example of the LVRR-01, every trunk is painted by hand with a motif inspired by the chronograph scales on the enamel dial, along with the "AKRILVIA" logo and individual serial number of the respective watch. As a finishing touch and a tribute to the artisans responsible for the LVRR-01, the trunk reproduces the signatures of Rexhep Rexhepi, Jean-Pierre Hagmann, and Nicolas Doublel.

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The LVRR-01 is accompanied by a Louis Vuitton strap of natural cowhide leather, a calfskin that acquires a delicate patina with use, and a unique platinum pin buckle made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann that bears the "JHP" hallmark.

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Since its creation in 2012, this is the first time that Rexhep Rexhepi has collaborated with another player in the watchmaking industry.

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A singular trunk for a unique watch The LVRR-01 is delivered in a unique Louis Vuitton traditional trunk.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: Rexhep Rexhepi

Model  Akrivia X Louis Vuitton LVRR-01 Rexhep Rexhepi Chronographe a Sonnerie Platinium Edition

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Ref. LVRR-01 -  2 Dial

Case:
Reinterpreted Tambour 950 platinum case
Diameter: 39.9 mm
Thickness: 12.2 mn
Reinterpreted Tambour case by JP Hagmannn brushed with polished accents 
- 7-sided crown and mono-pusher hand-decorated
Water-resistant to 3 ATM (30 m)
Dial
Fired enamel
3N Gold railway and logo
Front dial: Smoked translucent sapphire dial, six gold cubes filled with translucent Plique-à-jour
fired enamel
Back dial: Grand Feu enamel on a palladium-gold base twin scales for hours and minutes
Movement
Calibre LVRR-01 - made in-house by Atelier Akrivia 
- 391 components, including 55 for the tourbillon 
- 41 jewels 
- 21,600vibrations per hour 
- 72-hour power reserve 
 Functions: Central hours and minutes, 5-minute
tourbillon at 6 o’clock; Chronograph à sonnerie
(minutes & seconds
Strap
Natural calfskin leather with Platinum ardillon buckle 

Trunk:
High watchmaking special trunk with hand-painted
Monogram canvas

 Limitation
Limited edition: 10 pieces

🔴 Price : incl. VAT 450'000 CHF / 540,000 EUR 💰

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Press Release - 2023
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Louis Vuitton – TAMBOUR Carpe Diem

 Louis Vuitton – TAMBOUR Carpe Diem Jacquemart Unique Watch 2021

The 21 st century jacquemart watch

Louis Vuitton wanted to give jacquemarts back their original meaning. In order to do this, the framework of the Tambour Carpe Diem was built around two major axes, a perfect mastery of this type of calibre in which the automaton is truly functional  as it tells the time on demand, without hands. By combining exclusive high watchmaking caliber with a subversive Vanitas, Louis Vuitton orchestrates a scintillating show with the Tambour Carpe Diem. This virtuoso timepiece writes a new chapter in the history of the jacquemart watch.

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After having secretly carried out several special orders for automatic watches for a few customers, Louis Vuitton decided to lift part of the mystery by creating a unique model. 

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Two years of development were necessary for the Tambour Carpe Diem to see the light of day and integrate the Maison's watch collections. “Our goal was to think outside the box,” explains Michel Navas, Master Watchmaker at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. "We wanted to bring to Jacquemart our vision of the 21st century with all the ardor and creativity that have characterized our House since it invested in watchmaking in 2002." 

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Originally, jacquemarts were automatons designed to strike the hours on church steeples. When watchmakers miniaturized them on watches, their function became essentially decorative - to animate the dial of a sketch -, the time traditionally remaining indicated by classic hands.

Watchmaking performance  

Not content with allowing its model to keep up with the passage of time, Louis Vuitton has added additional horological complications to it.  

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The Tambour Carpe Diem has four. A jumping hour, a retrograde minute, a power reserve display and the automaton's animation mechanism, which are also four in number ... “The feat was to design a mechanical movement that was powerful enough to integrate and smoothly running all these functions that had never been combined before, ”explains Michel Navas.

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On the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time can be read on demand. To reveal it, you have to press the reptile-shaped push-button, to the right of the case.

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The central snake head rises to reveal the hours window placed on the front of the skull while the rattlesnake tail oscillates in the direction of the minutes, positioned under the hourglass of the power reserve. That's when the skull becomes mocking, winks in the shape of Monogram Flowers that appear in one of its sockets.

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His jaw lets out a laugh that spelled out "Carpe Diem". "Seize the present day", in the words of the poet Horace, inviting man to take advantage of each passing day. This striking spectacle which lasts 16 seconds is all the more remarkable as the movements of the reptile like those of the skull are of a confusing, harmonious naturalness. The readability of this unique complication watch is unmatched. 

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Having produced several special orders for watches with automata in secret for a select group of clients, Louis Vuitton now presents the Tambour Carpe Diem, a one of a kind model that combines exclusive high watchmaking caliber with a subversive Vanitas.

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The framework of the Tambour Carpe Diem was built around two major axes, a perfect mastery of this type of calibre in which the automaton is truly functional as it tells the time on demand, without hands.

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By pressing a push-piece, the dial’s miniature scenery comes to life on the wrist and the story’s protagonists, the snake and the skull which perform the role of jacquemarts, indicate the time.

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To this is added another determining feature in the creation of this high-watchmaking timepiece, a unique stylistic approach on the historic symbolic art theme of the Vanitas, tackled in a way that is both positive and subversive.

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Not content simply to allow the model to mark the passing of time, Louis Vuitton has provided additional watch complications. The Tambour Carpe Diem has four of these. A jumping hour, a retrograde minute, a power reserve display and the mechanism of the automata of which there are also four.

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On the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time can be read on demand. To reveal it, simply push the reptile-shaped push-piece on the right of the case. The central snake’s head lifts up to reveal the hour aperture positioned on the forehead of the skull, while the rattlesnake tail oscillates towards the minutes, placed below the power reserve hourglass.

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While Monogram Flowers appear in lieu of an eye, the skull’s jaw emits a mocking laugh from which emerge the words “Carpe Diem” – “Seize the day”, in the words of the poet Horace, encouraging people to make the most of every passing day.

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This amazing spectacle, which lasts for 16 seconds, is all the more remarkable as the reptile and skull move in such a bafflingly harmonious way. Entirely developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, this calibre LV 525 demonstrates true high-watchmaking prowess and is currently the subject of several patent applications.

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Another unique feature of the Tambour Carpe Diem is the design of its movement. Visible on the back of the timepiece, the calibre has been assembled in the shape of a skull, echoing the Vanitas on the dial.

An ultra-sophisticated contemporary aesthetic

An ultra-sophisticated contemporary aesthetic Depicted since the 15th century on pocket watches and clocks, these skulls, skeletons and hourglasses are an allegory of the passing of time.

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In order to bring this Vanitas up-to-date, Louis Vuitton has modernised its attributes, entrusting its manufacture to the very best Swiss craftsmen such as Anita Porchet for the enamelling and Dick Steenman for the engraving.

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Over 50 hours’ work were dedicated to enamelling the snake and the dial. To bring to life the rattlesnake that appears in profile on the case’s push-piece, Dick Steenman crafted gold in a profiled, fluid manner in order to accentuate the crawling effect.

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Sculpted from gold with incredible precision, the skull, reptile and hourglass are enhanced by the timeless modernity of Louis Vuitton emblems. Like the Monogram flowers engraved on the skull, tattooed on the snake’s scales or appearing in blood red on the skull’s eye socket.

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The delicacy, transparency and colours of the enamel, which are particularly remarkable and realistic on the teeth of the jacquemart, enhance the relief on the dial, suggesting – even when the hour has not struck – the idea of movement, inspiring the protagonists of the Tambour Carpe Diem in a celebration of existence.

 ==================

About Louis Vuitton  

Since 1854, Louis Vuitton has offered unique creations, where technical innovation is combined with the requirement of style while striving for the highest quality. The House remains faithful to the spirit of Louis, its founder and inventor of the " Art of travel ”. Its luggage, bags and accessories were as innovative as they were elegant and ingenious. Even today, daring dictates the history of Louis Vuitton. Faithful to its heritage, the Maison has opened its doors to architects, artists and designers while investing in new areas of expression such as ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, watches, jewelry, and even perfume. . These products, produced with great care, attest to Louis Vuitton’s commitment to high quality craftsmanship.

==================================
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: TAMBOUR Carpe Diem 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

• Ref. Q1EN0Y

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical movement developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
Jacquemart mechanism featuring 4 animations, jumping hour, retrograde minute hand, power reserve indicator
Calibre: LV 525 
426 components
100 hours of power reserve
21,600 oscillations per hour
48 jewels
Case
18K pink gold case and horns
18K pink gold hand-carved crown and push-piece, push-piece set with 2 rubies
46.8 mm diameter
14.42 mm thickness
Domed anti-reflection sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial
Enamel and miniature hand-painting by Anita Porchet (dial, snake & teeth)
Hand engravings by Dick Steenman (dial, snake, skull, teeth & hourglass)
Hourglass made of curved glass
Dial set with a brilliant-cut diamond
Strap
Black alligator strap
18K pink gold double folding buckle

Box
High Watchmaking Trunk

Gem-setting
💎1 brilliant-cut diamond for ~0.02 carat and 💎2 rubies for ~0.01 carat
 

 Price  USD 460.000 $

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Press releases - 2021
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