LEGENDARY SAMURAI COMMANDERS ASSEMBLE
AS ROGER DUBUIS INTRODUCES
EXCALIBUR THE KABUTO LEGACY
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Roger Dubuis explores a unifying and symbolic moment in 17th
century Japan.
-
Through high watchmaking know-how and Métiers d’Art, the
Maison represents the cultural symbols of that time: Edo Castle
and twelve samurai commanders, depicted by their Kabuto (helmet) and Kamon (crest).
-
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO .jpg)
At its heart, the RD821 automatic calibre, certified by the
Poinçon de Genève, allows for the daring expressivity on display
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 
Shifting high horology into the realms of authentic Japanese history, Roger Dubuis unveils Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy – a timepiece rich in samurai culture and refined Métiers d’Art.
UNITY AROUND THE TABLE
This new creation takes its inspiration from the 17th century, at a perilous time when Japan stood divided by relentless warfare. In a fractured land, rival warlords fought for supremacy with unrelenting ambition.
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A resolution, however, was soon to emerge under the impulse of three notable leaders. By uniting the country’s bushō (samurai commanders), the leaders established a new path and political order for Japan. Through their vision and determination, unification, peace, and prosperity flourished in the country for over 250 years, with Edo Castle sitting at the symbolic heart of a reformed society. In conceiving this timepiece, Roger Dubuis echoes that circle of solidarity – the very moment that Japanese conflict was transformed into lasting harmony.
THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO
Within Japan’s changing world, the country’s united bushō were each represented by their individual Kabuto - a ceremonial and protective helmet that served as a statement of their lineage, philosophy, and aspirations.
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Importantly, the Kabuto is also a depiction of meticulous craftsmanship - the essential thread that connects this story with the high watchmaking of Roger Dubuis. The Maison has therefore begun its homage to this epic Japanese tale by reinterpreting the Kabuto of twelve influential bushō on the dial.
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Through precise Métiers d’Art, the micro-sculpted Kabuto are faithfully recreated in 18K pink gold, revealing unique symbolism and intricate hand-engraved detail.
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Each one takes 2 to 3 days of skilled work, while the most delicate elements to craft are the ornaments at the front of the Kabuto, which stand as the iconic and visible signatures of the bushō.
DEPICTING THE SAMURAI
The circle begins at 12 o’clock with the shōgun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of the leading architects of the unified Japan, whose Kabuto has a fern to exemplify success and longevity.
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The legendary samurai commanders who fought on behalf of Tokugawa Ieyasu came to be known as the Four Heavenly Kings of the Tokugawa. They each take their place around the table of this dial, and include:
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Honda Tadakatsu at 1 o’clock, a commander renowned for his loyalty to Tokugawa, and whose integrity established the country’s moral standard for generations. His iconic Kabuto reveals deer antlers as a source of divine protection.
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Sakai Tadatsugu at 2 o’clock, an elder statesman of renowned wisdom and battlefield prowess, who helped establish the foundations of Tokugawa governance. His Kabuto represents the pinnacle of the craft, with a sword shaped front to symbolize righteousness and the cutting away of evil.
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Sakakibara Yasumasa at 4 o’clock, who was known for his sound judgement. His sword-decorated Kabuto represents strong martial virtue and the samurai’s soul, along with the idea of cutting through deception to reveal truth.
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At 9 o'clock is Ii Naomasa, a diplomatically brilliant commander. His Kabuto symbolizes bravery, with towering tenshō extending from each side.
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Seven more samurai are featured, each depicted by their characteristic Kabuto.
EDO CASTLE
At the centre of the dial, Roger Dubuis has interpreted the architecture of Edo Castle.
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Through abstract and contemporary language, the towering fortress appears with a deep blue coating, inspired by the indigo dye that was originally used for samurai garments, and later on, the artistic expression of Japanese art and textiles.
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The layered construction features decorative finishing on every facet, including polishing and bright polishing as well as circular brushing and shot-blasting to showcase the castle’s façade.
CALIBRE INGENUITY
Limited to a collection of 28 exclusive pieces, these 45 mm watches are made in 18K pink gold and feature a crown surrounded by a blue enamel ring.
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They are worn on a blue calf-skin leather strap, distinctively crafted with stitched tiles to resemble the armour of a samurai. Tributes to the twelve bushō continue on the caseback, where their twelve crests are laser-engraved on a blue-coated pink gold ring, covered by a sapphire glass to show an elaborate rotor.
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It is thanks to the RD821 calibre that the daring expressivity of this watch is made possible. The automatic movement allows space to stage the compelling aesthetics. With 60 hours of power reserve and 14 different finishing techniques, this in-house calibre is certified by the Poinçon de Genève.
FINAL WORDS
To bring historical accuracy and authenticity to the creation of this watch, Roger Dubuis worked alongside Frederik Cryns, Professor of Japanese History and Consultant on the Emmy-winning TV series, Shōgun. His expertise allowed the design to come to life in the most genuine way.
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He says, “Samurai culture produced some of the most extraordinary wearable art in human history. That this tradition of master craftsmanship now meets the art of haute horlogerie feels entirely fitting. Both disciplines demand the same uncompromising pursuit of excellence.”
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APPENDIX
12 O’CLOCK - TOKUGAWA IEYASU (1543–1616)
The patient architect of lasting peace. After decades as a hostage, ally, and vassal, Ieyasu unified Japan following victory at Sekigahara.
In 1603, he established the Tokugawa shōgunate and created the political framework that brought 265 years of peace. His genius lay not in conquest but in constructing a new nation with a new philosophy, Confucianist loyalty and social hierarchy, that made peace possible and prosperity inevitable.
KABUTO (helmet)
DAIKOKU ZUKIN-NARI KABUTO WITH FERN FROND MAEDATE
大黒頭巾形兜・歯朶葉状前立 (Daikoku Zukin-Nari Kabuto · Shida Ha-jō Maedate)
A distinctive hood-shaped helmet evoking Daikokuten (god of wealth and fortune), adorned with a gold-leafed fern frond front crest. The fern symbolizes prosperity and longevity due to its evergreen nature, while the Daikoku form invokes blessings of abundance—reflecting Ieyasu’s vision of a prosperous, peaceful realm.
KAMON (crest)
THREE HOLLYHOCK LEAVES (MITSUBA AOI)
Three heart-shaped hollyhock leaves arranged in a circle, symbolizing the clan’s devotion to the Kamo Shinto shrines. The Tokugawa aoi became the most protected crest in Japan.
1 O’CLOCK - HONDA TADAKATSU (1548–1610)
"The Warrior Who Surpassed Death.” One of the Four Heavenly Kings, Tadakatsu fought in over fifty-seven battles without receiving a single wound.
His presence at Anegawa, Mikatagahara, Komaki, and Sekigahara secured Tokugawa dominance. Beyond warfare, his legendary loyalty and integrity established the moral standard for generations of Tokugawa retainers, proving that honor and effectiveness could be unified.
KABUTO
DEER ANTLER WAKIDATE KABUTO
鹿角脇立兜 (Kazuno Wakidate Kabuto)
The most iconic of all samurai helmets, featuring magnificent deer antler crests rising from the sides. According to legend, a sacred deer guided Ieyasu’s forces to safety across a flooded river, and Tadakatsu adopted the antlers as divine protection from Hachiman, the god of war, as he thought the deer was the god himself. Made from lacquered washi paper for lightness, symbolizing swift, decisive action.
KAMON
HONDA STANDING HOLLYHOCK (HONDA TACHI AOI)
A standing hollyhock variant distinguishing the Honda from their Tokugawa lords. The upright form suggests steadfast loyalty rising in devoted service.
2 O’CLOCK - SAKAI TADATSUGU (1527–1596)
The elder statesman among the Four Heavenly Kings. Tadatsugu’s wisdom guided Ieyasu through the dangerous alliance with Oda Nobunaga and the complex politics following Nobunaga’s death.
His administrative skills complemented his battlefield prowess, helping establish the foundations of Tokugawa governance. Though he passed before Sekigahara, his contributions shaped the loyal retainer corps that achieved victory.
KABUTO
RIDGED KABUTO WITH SWORD MAEDATE
三十八間金覆輪筋兜・剣形前立 (Sanjūhachi-ken Kin-Fukurin Suji-Kabuto · Ken-Nari Maedate)
A commanding helmet constructed of thirty-eight ridged vertical plates with gilt rims. The suji-kabuto style represents the pinnacle of Japanese helmet craft, while the sword-shaped front crest symbolizes righteousness and the decisive cutting away of evil. This combination reflects Tadatsugu's role as both warrior and trusted advisor.
KAMON
WOOD SORREL IN CIRCLE (MARU NI KATABAMI)
A wood sorrel leaf enclosed within a circle, one of Japan's Ten Great Crests. The katabami plant is renowned for its tenacious vitality, symbolizing the prosperity of descendants across generations.
3 O’CLOCK - MIZUNO KATSUNARI (1564–1651)
A cousin of Ieyasu, Katsunari served with distinction throughout the unification campaigns. At Sekigahara, he commanded forces guarding Ōgaki Castle, accepting its surrender after the Eastern victory.
His long life (87 years) spanning the entire transition from war to peace made him a living link between the tumultuous past and the stable present, a testament to the endurance of those who built the new order.
KABUTO
BLACK-LACQUERED CHINESE CAP WITH SHIGAMI MAEDATE
黒漆塗唐冠形兜・黒漆塗魍（獅噜）前立 (Kuro Urushi-Nuri Tōkan-Nari Kabuto · Kuro Urushi-Nuri Shigami Maedate)
A dignified Chinese cap helmet in black lacquer, featuring a fearsome wooden lacquered shigami (lion-biting) front crest. The shigami represents protection against evil spirits and the ferocity needed for victory on the battlefield. The elegant tōkan form balanced with the aggressive crest embodies disciplined aggression.
KAMON
WATER PLANTAIN (MIZUNO OMODAKA)
A stylized water plantain (omodaka), depicting the leaves and flowers of a plant that grows in rice paddies and ponds. The arrow-shaped leaves gave omodaka the nickname "victory grass" (kachiikusa gusa), making it beloved by warriors.
4 O’CLOCK - SAKAKIBARA YASUMASA (1548–1606)
The steadfast guardian, one of the Four Heavenly Kings. At Sekigahara, Yasumasa commanded the rear guard protecting Tokugawa Hidetada at the siege of Ueda Castle, ensuring the heir’s safety.
His unwavering loyalty and sound judgment made him essential to Ieyasu’s survival through decades of conflict. He exemplified the principle that true strength lies in protecting what matters most.
KABUTO
ORNAMENTAL SWORD-SHAPED MAEDATE
刀形前立 (Katana-Nari Maedate)
An elegantly decorated helmet featuring an ornamental sword-shaped front crest. The sword represents martial virtue and the samurai’s soul. Sakakibara was known for his measured judgment and unwavering loyalty, qualities symbolized by the blade’s straight, true form, cutting through deception to reveal truth.
KAMON
GENJI WHEEL (GENJI GURUMA)
A wheel design with extending spokes, symbolizing ceaseless motion and the eternal cycle of service. The wheel turns, yet the center remains faithful.
5 O’CLOCK - DATE MASAMUNE (1567–1636)
The "One-Eyed Dragon" of the north. Although too young to participate in the unification wars proper, Masamune secured the northeastern frontier for the Tokugawa. During Sekigahara, his campaigns against enemy forces in Tōhoku prevented reinforcements from reaching the Western army.
As lord of Sendai, he built one of Japan’s most prosperous domains and pursued international diplomacy, embodying the cultural flourishing of the peace he helped secure.
KABUTO
CRESCENT MOON MAEDATE KABUTO
三日月形前立兜 (Mikazuki-Nari Maedate Kabuto)
The most famous silhouette in samurai history: a sleek black helmet crowned with a magnificent golden crescent moon. Designed by Masamune’s father Terumune to pair with the sun-disk battle standard, the asymmetrical crescent (shorter on the sword arm side) embodies both celestial protection and practical battlefield design.
KAMON
BAMBOO AND SPARROWS (TAKE NI SUZUME)
Sparrows amid bamboo representing resilience and prosperity.
6 O’CLOCK - ITAKURA KATSUSHIGE (1545–1624)
The architect of civil order. As the first Kyoto Shoshidai (Deputy) and Edo Town Magistrate, Katsushige established the administrative systems that governed Japan’s cities during the peace. His judicious governance of Kyoto, managing relations with the imperial court and Buddhist temples, demonstrated that Tokugawa rule would bring stability. His contributions were administrative rather than martial, yet equally essential.
KABUTO
HEAD-SHAPED KABUTO WITH BIRD FEATHER ORNAMENT
鳥毛付頭形兜 (Torige-tsuki Zunari Kabuto)
A practical zunari (head-shaped) helmet adorned with dramatic bird feather decorations. The feathers symbolize swiftness and keen perception, appropriate for a man who served as magistrate of Edo and Kyoto. The streamlined helmet base reflects the practical wisdom required for governance rather than mere battlefield glory.
KAMON
SWIRL MOTIF (ITAKURA TOMOE / TOMOEKUYŌ)
Nine left-turning triple tomoe arranged in a kuyō (nine-planet) formation—one larger tomoe at the center surrounded by eight smaller ones. The tomoe is a comma-shaped swirl representing flowing water.
7 O’CLOCK - KURODA NAGAMASA (1568–1623)
Son of the legendary strategist Kuroda Kanbei, Nagamasa proved equally formidable in both battle and diplomacy. At Sekigahara, he fought valiantly and, crucially, negotiated the defection of Kobayakawa Hideaki—the betrayal that shattered the Western army.
His father had helped build Hideyoshi’s empire; Nagamasa helped dismantle it to create something more enduring. As first lord of Fukuoka, he built a domain that prospered for centuries.
KABUTO
SILVER-LEAFED ICHINOTANI KABUTO
銀箔押一の谷形兜 (Ginpaku-Oshi Ichinotani-Nari Kabuto)
A striking helmet representing the cliff at Ichinotani, site of Minamoto Yoshitsune’s legendary cavalry charge. Silver-leafed cypress boards recreate the famous precipice, originally worn by Fukushima Masanori and exchanged in reconciliation. Nagamasa wore this in battle at Sekigahara, carrying the spirit of bold, decisive action.
KAMON
WISTERIA CIRCLE (KURODA FUJI DOMOE)
A stylized wisteria in circular arrangement, derived from the aristocratic Fujiwara clan lineage. The cascading wisteria suggests nobility descending through generations.
8 O’CLOCK -HOSOKAWA TADAOKI (1563–1646)
A warrior of refined sensibilities, Tadaoki mastered both sword and tea ceremony under the greatest teachers of his age. At Sekigahara, he fought fiercely for the Eastern cause while his beloved wife Gracia sacrificed herself rather than become a Western hostage.
His domain of Kumamoto became a center of culture and prosperity. Tadaoki embodied the transformation from warrior to cultivated lord that peace made possible.
KABUTO
BLACK-LACQUERED ZUNARI WITH BIRD FEATHER CREST
黒漆塗頭形兜・鳥毛頭立 (Kuro Urushi-Nuri Zunari Kabuto · Torige Kashiradate)
A sophisticated zunari helmet finished in distinctive black lacquer, crowned with elegant bird feather crests. The refined aesthetics reflect Tadaoki’s dual nature as both fierce warrior and accomplished tea master, trained by Sen no Rikyū. Beauty and lethality unified in a single statement.
KAMON
NINE-PLANET STAR (KU-YŌ MON)
Nine circles representing celestial bodies: the sun, moon, five planets, and two nodes associated with eclipses. Legend holds that Tadaoki admired this pattern on Oda Nobunaga's knife and was granted permission to adopt it as his crest. The design invokes cosmic protection and enduring celestial order.
9 O’CLOCK - II NAOMASA (1561–1602)
Commander of the fearsome "Red Devils," Naomasa revived his nearly-extinct clan to become one of the Four Heavenly Kings. At Sekigahara, his red-armored cavalry led the historic first charge.
Beyond military valor, Naomasa demonstrated diplomatic brilliance, negotiating crucial defections that guaranteed Eastern victory. He received the highest reward among Ieyasu’s vassals, founding the influential Hikone domain.
KABUTO
RED-LACQUERED KABUTO WITH GOLDEN TENSHŌ WAKIDATE
赤備えの兜・本金箔大天衝脇立 (Aka Zonae no Kabuto · Honkinpaku Dai-Tenshō Wakidate)
The legendary crimson helmet of the "Red Devils," featuring towering gold-leafed tenshō (ceremonial ornament) crests extending from either side. Red symbolized bravery and the inheritance of the fearsome Takeda cavalry tradition. The massive golden crests were exclusive to the Ii clan lords, marking the commander in the thick of battle.
KAMON
HIKONE CITRUS BLOSSOM(HIKONE TACHIBANA)
The flower and fruit of the tachibana, a native Japanese citrus whose evergreen leaves symbolize eternity. According to legend, a tachibana tree stood beside the well where the Ii clan's founder was discovered as an infant, binding the clan's origins to this most auspicious of trees.
10 O’CLOCK - ASANO NAGAMASA (1547–1611)
Related to Toyotomi Hideyoshi through marriage and one of the Five Commissioners, Nagamasa navigated the treacherous transition from Toyotomi to Tokugawa service.
He recognized that supporting Ieyasu offered the best path to lasting stability. His descendants would rule Hiroshima for generations, prospering under the peace he helped establish.
KABUTO
BLACK- LACQUERED PEACH-SHAPED WITH GREAT WATER BUFFALO WAKIDATE
大水牛脇立黒漆桃形兜 (Dai-Suigyū Wakidate Kuro Urushi Momonari Kabuto)
A peach-shaped (momonari) helmet in black lacquer, crowned with massive water buffalo horn crests. The buffalo horns project power and indomitable strength, while the peach shape was believed to ward off evil. This commanding silhouette announced the presence of a formidable commander on the battlefield.
KAMON
CROSSED HAWK FEATHERS(ASANO CHIGAI TAKANOHA)
Crossed hawk feathers signifying martial prowess and sharp perception. The hawk strikes with precision; the Asano served with similar accuracy.
11 O’CLOCK - KATŌ YOSHIAKI (1563–1631)
A master of naval warfare, Yoshiak fought, at Sekigahara, among the Eastern vanguard, contributing to the decisive victory.
After the battle, he received Iyo Matsuyama Domain, where his maritime expertise proved valuable as the Seto Inland Sea’s waters transformed from theaters of war to arteries of peaceful commerce. He later became lord of Aizu, one of the largest domains in Japan.
KABUTO
POINTED HOOD KABUTO WITH BIRD TAIL ORNAMENT
角頭巾形鳥尾飾兜 (Kaku Zukin-Nari Torio Kazari Kabuto)
An unusual pointed hood-shaped helmet decorated with dramatic bird tail feathers. The angular hood form suggests scholarly wisdom combined with practical command, while the bird tail ornaments convey swiftness and noble bearing. This distinctive combination reflects Katō’s reputation for both intellect and naval prowess.
KAMON
DESCENDING WISTERIA (SAGARI FUJI)
A stylized wisteria with cascading flower clusters hanging downward. The wisteria (fuji) was one of Japan's most popular kamon motifs, associated with the prestigious Fujiwara clan lineage.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Collection: EXALIBUR
Model: EXALIBUR The Kabuto Legacy 45mm Pink Gold Edition
• Limited edition of 28
• Poincon de Geneve
• Micro-sculpture Signature
• Métiers d’Art
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
.jpg)
Ref.RDDBEX1139
KEY MESSAGES
• Roger Dubuis explores a unifying and symbolic moment in 17th century Japan.
• Through high watchmaking know-how and Métiers d’Art, the Maison represents the cultural symbols
of that time: Edo Castle and twelve samurai commanders, depicted by their Kabuto (helmet) and
Kamon (crest).
• At its heart, the RD821 automatic calibre, certified by the Poinçon de Genève, allows for the daring
expressivity on display.
CALIBRE
• RD 821 caliber
• Automatic, self-winding
• The Manufacture skillfully crafts 14 distinct finishes in-house on this RD821, including those tailored
for the Poinçon de Genève certification. These finishes are meticulously applied to every surface of
every single component of every caliber, creating a captivating interplay of matte and polished
surfaces. This meticulous process enhances the play of light, that has become the hallmark of Geneva
fine watchmaking
• 4 Hz / 28’800 Vibrations per Hour
• 48 Hours power reserve
• Diameter: LINES: 11’ ½
• Thickness: 3.5 Millimeters
• 172 components
• 33 jewels
CASE
• Pink gold 750/1000 with sapphire crystal ring under the bezel. Open case back.
• Laser engraved emblems
• Glass ring inside the crown.
• Diameter: 45 Millimeters
• Thickness: 16.87 Millimeters
• Water resistance: 3 BAR (30m)
DIAL
• 17 elements composing the castle
• 4 decoration techniques
• 7 roof elements in pink gold with blue CVD coating
• 6 roof elements in pink gold with black PVD coating
• 3 building elements in pink gold
• 1 floring in pink gold with black PVD coating and lazer engraved décor
• Pink gold 750/1000 ring with 12 pink gold hand engraved helmets
• CVD treatment on the flange, polished.
HAND
• Hour, minute hands in pink gold, with satin brushed
STRAP
• Calf leather strap, with glued and stitched leather strips.
• Patina leather like used armor.
• Interchangeable thanks to QRS.
• Delivered with one additional leather strap.
BUCKLE
• Pink gold 750/1000 cover with pink gold triple folding buckle interchangeable with Quick Release
System
BOX
• Prestige box
🔰 Limited Edition of 28 pieces
🔴PRICE: On Request💰
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Press release - 2026
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