Thursday, April 27, 2017

ANGELUS – U21 & U22 Tourbillon Limited Edition

ANGELUS URBAN U21 & U22 Tourbillon Limited Edition

Angelus introduces two new versions of its
Skeleton Tourbillon movement: the U21 and U22.

Marking a new chapter in Angelus’ Urban Collection of cutting-edge watchmaking, the U21 and U22 Tourbillon revisit the singular movement and streamlined design focused on structural optimization with two new executions: the U21 and U22.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Marking a new chapter in Angelus’ Urban Collection of cutting-edge watchmaking, the U21 and U22 Tourbillon revisit the singular movement and streamlined design focused on structural optimization with two new executions: the U21 and U22.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

From the movement to the case design, the objective from the get-go has been to showcase the splendor of the movement’s architecture and tourbillon while reducing as much weight as possible. For this purpose, the U21 and U22 Tourbillon feature a carbon fiber main plate, giving the impression of being a part of the case.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The U21 Tourbillon interprets the uniquely structured movement in a noble metal case, combing the bezel-less carbon fiber central case element with polished and satin-brushed 18-karat red gold lugs, enhancing its visual appeal. The skeletonized bridges are solid 18-karat red gold for additional harmony between the case and movement. To further enhance legibility, the hands are filled with white SuperLumiNova.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The U22 Tourbillon on the other hand features a carbon fiber and titanium case like the original U20, however with an even greater emphasis on weight reduction. Thanks to its carbon fiber main plate, the U22 Tourbillon weighs a mere 54 grams in total. The flange ring has also been revisited, set with satin-finished applied indexes for the hour markers. The central hands offer a racy look thanks to the red SuperLumiNova.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The goal with these U21 and U22 Tourbillon is to present the essence of the movement by removing any superfluous material. What seems to look deceptively simple to achieve requires great artistic vision and engineering prowess. The more material that is removed, the more the structure of the movement has to be carefully calculated to ensure rigidity and sturdiness for a maximum precision.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The tourbillon even goes a step further. It does not boast an ordinary movement that has been skeletonized afterwards, but a tourbillon movement that has been created from scratch to be as open, three-dimensional and resplendent as possible.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The discerning eye will be pleased to discover that haute horlogerie has not been sacrificed on the altar of minimal mass: components have been hand-chamfered, hand-polished and hand satin-finished to ensure that they look as good as they are filigree.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO
And to further increase visibility into the top of the three-dimensional movement, both models features a unique design element. The case is fashioned without a bezel and instead uses a sapphire crystal dome, which also allows a sideways view onto the movement.

The U21 and U22 Tourbillon deserve closer inspection, which reveals many of the well-thought-out details that go into creating a contemporary, cutting-edge skeleton watch: the variable inertia balance wheel of the tourbillon is especially designed and crafted to minimize air friction; the patterned carbon fiber used in the main plate is offers maximum rigidity; ruby bearings are set into solid gold chatons. The ultra-light case, entirely made of carbon fiber, red gold or titanium and sapphire, has been designed to echo the three-dimensional aspect and the technical feel of the timepiece.

The U21 and U22 Tourbillon in detail

The absence of a dial and the use of a sapphire crystal dome set directly onto the carbon fiber case allow full visual access to the movement from both the top and sides, accentuating the three-dimensionality of the movement’s architecture.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO
The red gold or titanium lugs, which are securely attached to the carbon fiber case and reinforced with an armature of carbon fiber, have a very technical shape and echo the titanium bridges of the movement. However, the intricacy of the lugs is softened by the clever use of polished chamfered edges and contrasting satin-finished surfaces.

Special carbon fiber main plate

The carbon fiber used in the U21 and U22 Tourbillon is very specific, offering the essential characteristics necessary for use in a haute horlogerie timepiece, with tolerances in the micron range. They are not decorative elements, but 100% functional

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


Movement elements

The heart of the U21 and U22 Tourbillon is the flying tourbillon. The tourbillon is “flying", which means that it does not require an upper supporting bridge. This helps to maximize the three-dimensionality of the movement and allows maximum appreciation of the technical and aesthetical refinements throughout the movement.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The tourbillon’s steel cage is hand chamfered and polished with flat surfaces either mirror-polished or satin-finished.

The variable inertia balance wheel is regulated by four gold weights around its perimeter. In the quest for high performance, the rim of the balance wheel has been milled to maximize aerodynamics and reduce air resistance.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The highly engineered movement further features beam-type titanium bridges, which are skeletonized to reduce weight and offer a better view of the watch’s inner workings.

The titanium mainspring barrel bridge is supported by slim pillars set directly into the carbon fiber main plate, a feat in itself that requires great precision and a total functionality of the carbon fiber main plate.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

All wheels throughout the entire gear train have a specially developed six-spoke design, again in the quest for maximum rigidity for minimum mass.

All of the rubies, which actually act as low-friction bearings, are fitted into solid gold chatons that are embedded in the carbon fiber main plate. Gold chatons not only look good and attest to the movement's haute horlogerie bona fides, they are also non-magnetic and corrosion resistant like the carbon fiber itself. Their functional purpose is to compensate for the slight deformation due to the driving of the jewels in the main plate and prevent the rubies or carbon fiber from breaking.

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Technical Specifications

URBAN Collection

Model: U21 Tourbillon

Reference: 0TCAD.B01A.C004R

Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with NPT carbon-fiber main plate and gold bridges

Movement and Finishing
Calibre: Angelus A-250, manual-winding with flying tourbillon,
NPT carbon-fiber main plate and solid 18-karat red gold bridges
Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons
Diameter: 32.60 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hz
Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design
Escapement: Swiss lever
Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon
Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished
Movement finishing:
Haute horlogerie, all steel components have hand-chamfered and hand-polished  edges,  flat  surfaces  are  mirror-polished  or  satin-finished. 
Satin finished with chamfered and polished edges solid 18-karat red gold bridges
Dial
Material:  NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement’s main plate
Hour and minute markings: Printed spokes on outer chapter ring
Hour and minute hands: Rhodium-treated with white SuperLumiNova blue emission
Case
Material: NPT carbon-fiber and 18-karat red gold.
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo; 2 positions: 1. winding, 2. time-setting
Back: Sapphire display back
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Water resistance: 30 m / 100’/ 3 atm
Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface
Strap and buckle
Material: Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert
Length range: 75 - 115 mm
Width: 21 - 18 mm
Buckle: 18-karat red gold pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo

Limitation and reference
Limited Edition: 18 pieces
Reference: 0TCAD.B01A.C004R


The U21 Tourbillon is available in a limited edition of 18 pieces
in NPT carbon-fiber/red gold case. Recommended retail price CHF 49’100 (VAT excl.)
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Technical Specifications

URBAN Collection

Model: U22 Tourbillon

Reference: 0TCBB.B01A.C004T

Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with
NPT carbon-fiber main plate and titanium bridges

Movement and Finishing
Calibre: Angelus A-250, manual-winding with flying tourbillon,
NPT carbon-fiber main plate and titanium bridges
Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons
Diameter: 32.60 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hz
Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design
Escapement: Swiss lever
Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon
Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished
Movement finishing:
Haute horlogerie, all steel component have hand-chamfered and hand polished edges, flat surfaces are mirror-polished or satin-finished. Chamfered and sand blasted titanium bridges.
Dial
Material: NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement main plate
Hour and minute markings: Printed spokes on outer chapter ring and satin finished indexes
Hour and minute hands: Rhodium-treated with red SuperLumiNova blue emission
Case
Material: NPT carbon-fiber and titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo; 2 positions: 1. winding, 2. time-setting
Back: Sapphire display back
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Water resistance: 30 m / 100’/ 3 atm
Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface
Strap and buckle
Material: Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert
Length range: 75 - 115 mm
Width: 21 - 18 mm
Buckle: Titanium, pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo

Limitation and reference
Limited Edition: 18 pieces
Reference: 0TCBB.B01A.C004T


The U22 Tourbillon is available in a limited edition of 18 pieces
in NPT carbon-fiber/titanium case. Recommended retail price CHF 35’800 (VAT excl.)

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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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