TUDOR – PELAGOS FXD GMT Zulu Time Titanium Chronometer

 

TUDOR – PELAGOS FXD GMT “Zulu Time” 42 mm Titanium Master Chronometer - 2024

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 PELAGOS FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Titanium

 The Pelagos FXD platform, initially developed with a French Navy specialist unit, has now expanded to suit the needs of the French Naval Aviation, with the addition of a function that allows aviators and flight support personnel to keep track of “Zulu time” in addition to local time and a third time zone. The new Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS to ensure maximum precision and reliability in the adverse real-world conditions endured by personnel of the Aéronautique Navale.

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Since the 1950s, TUDOR has been officially supplying the Marine Nationale (French Navy) with reliable diving watches used to carry out the daring duties of naval troops for decades. The first Pelagos FXD model – “FXD” referring to the extra robust FiXeD strap bars of the watch case - was introduced in 2021, continuing the legacy of TUDOR and the French Navy. After years of use in the field, the Pelagos FXD platform has a proven track record of service. In 2024, the FXD family is expanding to the meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation), the force responsible for naval aviation operations. 

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The Pelagos FXD GMT can keep track of time in up to three time zones at once, one being Zulu time, the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and the standard reference time for all aviators—a valuable tool when undertaking crucial missions. Zulu time corresponds to zero-meridian time or the time at zero degrees of longitude, commonly known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). It’s standardized use in global aviation prevents confusion in communications between nations and time zones. The word “Zulu” is the standardized phonetic alphabet code word used in aviation for “Z” or the first letter of the word “zero”.

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Zulu time is tracked by the highly legible bright orange hand that completes a full lap around the dial every 24 hours. Once set, this hand typically is not reset, allowing sailors of the French Naval Aviation to check the global aviation reference time at a glance. The angular hour hand, commonly nicknamed “Snowflake,” indicates local time. It is set through the winding crown and “jumps” in increments of one hour for easy setting when changing time zones. 

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The date changes when the hour hand passes midnight, in either direction—backwards or forwards. A third time zone can be checked using the 24-hour luminous bi-directional bezel and the orange Zulu time hand.

KEY POINTS

• 42 mm satin-brushed grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars, machined from a single block, and grade 5 titanium case back engraved with the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) logo and the inscription “M.N.24” (Marine nationale 2024), inspired by the original TUDOR M.N. engravings of the 1970s and ’80s
• Bidirectional rotatable bezel in titanium with ceramic insert and 24-hour graduation filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
• Black matt dial with applied hour markers filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
• Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a silicon balance spring and a 65-hour power reserve
• Master Chronometer certified by METAS
• “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material filling
• Orange 24-hour “Zulu time” arrow-head hand with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green emission, beige-coloured luminescent material filling
• Flight-suit green one-piece fabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper. Extra removable fabric keeper with the French Naval Aviation roundel

TUDOR AND THE FRENCH NAVY

TUDOR chose to join forces publicly with the French Navy in 2021, thus continuing a relationship that dates back to 1956. Back then, the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), a scientific body attached to the French Navy and based in Toulon, took delivery of some Oyster Prince Submariner watches in order to assess them in real-life situations. They were references 7922 and 7923, both waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft) and fitted with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The waterproofness of these watches was judged to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct” by the G.E.R.S. commanding officer at the time. Persuaded by the potential of the instruments offered by the Genevan brand, he quickly placed more orders, enabling TUDOR to attain the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.

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TUDOR divers’ watches continued to be developed and the French Navy would use many of the brand’s timepieces over the following decades. Today, the most famous TUDOR divers’ watch used by the French Navy is the reference 9401, with its iconic blue dial and bezel. Engraved on the case back with the initials “M.N.” followed by the year of issue, the watches were delivered in two configurations: first with “Snowflake” hands and hour markers and later, with triangular hour markers. This model was launched in the mid-’70s and was supplied to the French Navy until the 1980s. It continued to be used into the 21st century, particularly at the French Navy’s diving school, as well as by combat swimmers.

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In 2021, reviving this historic collaboration, TUDOR released a new technical watch for underwater navigation developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s combat swimmers. Based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding, the Pelagos FXD model introduced many functional features that were new to TUDOR, including its distinctive fixed strap bars machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette. 

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With the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR and the French navy write a new chapter in their extensive shared history, deploying the FXD platform as a robust solution to naval aviation time-tracking needs.

FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION

The cockpit of a Rafale Marine jet, the bay of an Atlantique 2 long-range patrol plane or the air-traffic tower aboard a helicopter carrier all have one thing in common, besides being part of the French Naval Aviation force. They all operate in Zulu time. To easily keep track of Zulu time, TUDOR has developed the Pelagos FXD GMT. Based on its tried and tested FXD platform, this watch is all about functionality, featuring a robust yet lightweight grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars that is waterproof to 200m and fully brushed for a matt effect. 

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The 42 millimeter case, housing a high-performance mechanical movement, features a high contrast dial and colour-coded hands, the 24-hour Zulu time arrow-head hand made distinctive thanks to the use of a bright orange lacquer. These attributes combine to allow for enhanced legibility in dark environments or at night when the potent luminous material of its hands, hour-markers and bezel allow for instant gathering of time-tracking information. 

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Furthermore, the hour-markers as well as the hour, minute and seconds hands share a blue luminescence contrasting with the green luminous emission of the 24-hour hand and graduation on the 24-hour bezel. A detail that allows for an instinctive read of Zulu time, any time. If you add the time and date-setting practicality of the MT5652-U Manufacture Calibre to the above, with winding crown-operated, jumping-hour coupled date, you have a time-tracking tool fit for any sky-bound mission.

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And to highlight the Pelagos FXD GMT’s official commission with the French Navy and its aviation arm, its grade 5 titanium case back bears the logo of the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) composed of a winged anchor topped with a star, as well as a historically inspired engraving of “M.N.24” for “Marine nationale 2024” indicating the year of production of each batch of the watch.

A BRACELET WOVEN IN THE FRENCH NAVY’S HERITAGE

Historically, the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise. 

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Two strap types appear to have been particularly used over the years: black straps made from a single piece of braided nylon, and, less commonly, handmade straps made from parachute elastic, which could be recognised by their green colour and yellow or red central thread. It is to these ultra-functional relics, inextricably linked to the French Navy, that the fabric strap of the Pelagos FXD GMT pays tribute. In the case of the Pelagos FXD GMT, the colour of the strap matches the specific colour of the flight suit worn by aviators of the French Naval Aviation.

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The single-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. For the Pelagos FXD model, a new, highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure. 

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Made from a 22mm green polyester woven ribbon, the strap features a grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper as well as a removable fabric keeper, finely embroidered with the French Naval Aviation’s roundel, composed of the French flag’s blue, white and red colours, circled in gold and topped with a black anchor.

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By notable coincidence, Julien Faure, a family firm created in 1864, has for many years woven decorative ribbons  in its workshops, bearing the names of French Navy ships and forming an integral part of the legendary bachi, the red pompom hat worn by French sailors.

COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS

Tested by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, the Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified, currently the most demanding standard in the mechanical watch industry. This certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. 

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In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on uncased movements only and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), applied to the brand’s models fitted with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. 

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It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR MASTER CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION

All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Pelagos FXD GMT has achieved, are summarised below:

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• Swiss Made
• Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
• Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
• Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
• Guaranteed waterproof to 200m (660 ft) by METAS
• Guaranteed 65-hour power reserve by METAS

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652-U

The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.

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This movement offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the “Master Chronometer” mention on its bridges, emphasising its superior performance. Its monobloc rotor is made of tungsten. It is openworked and features the laser radial grooving and sand-blasted details distinctive to TUDOR Master Chronometer calibers. A combination of finishings can be found on the bridges as well.

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The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a fully assembled Master Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.

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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is “weekend-proof”, able to run for about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind or reset it.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES

Collection: PELAGOS

Model: PELAGOS FXD GMT Titanium 42 mm

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Reference  2542G247NU-0002

CASE
Grade 2 titanium case, 42 mm in diameter, 12.7 mm thick, 52 mm from lug to lug, satin-brushed finish
Fixed strap bars
Grade 5 titanium case back
BEZEL
24-hour didirectional rotatable bezel in grade 2 titanium with ceramic insert and 24-hour graduation filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” green emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
WINDING CROWN
Grade 2 titanium crown, adorned with the TUDOR shield in relief
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) 
CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre 5652-U (COSC and METAS certified)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Integrated GMT function
TOTAL DIAMETER  31.8 mm
THICKNESS  7.5 mm
JEWELS  28 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE  Certified 65 hours by METAS
PRECISION
Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
FUNCTIONS
Centre jumping hour, 24-hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range, synchronised on the jumping hour hand
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
DIAL
Matt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” X1  blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELET
Fabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper, green
Removable fabric keeper
Included in the box

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TUDOR – PELAGOS FXD Titanium Reference 25717N

TUDOR – PELAGOS FXD Titanium 42 mm Chronometer - 2023

PELAGOS FXD Titanium

TUDOR is launching the Black Bay Ceramic model, an extraordinary watch and symbol of the brand's technical expertise, with a case in matt black ceramic, a Manufacture Calibre and a Master Chronometer certification from METAS. 

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As early as the mid ‘50s, TUDOR diving watches were being tested and evaluated by a number of outfits inside the US Navy, and by 1958 they were officially adopted by the Navy and purchased for the purpose of issuing them to divers operating in various units. This Pelagos FXD model is the spiritual successor of those watches. The nomenclature hints at the background of the watch, with FXD referring to the incredibly robust FiXeD strap bars of the case. The model represents a modern, high-performance and robust take on the famed “Milsub” (short for Military Submariner) of yesteryear. 

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Visually, it’s most in line with a late ‘60s-era TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016; it incorporates elements from the US military specifications for diving watches, such as fixed spring bars, as well as details inspired by other generations of issued TUDORs, like pointed crown-guards typically found on early TUDOR Submariners.

KEY POINTS

1.    42mm satin-brushed titanium case with fixed strap bars, machined from a single block of titanium
2.    Unidirectional rotatable bezel in titanium with ceramic insert and 60-minute graduation filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material
3.    Matt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material
4.    Manufacture Calibre MT5602, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
5.    “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material filling
6.    One-piece fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system in forest green with red central thread and additional one-piece rubber strap with embossed fabric motif

TUDOR AND THE US NAVY

The US Navy issued TUDOR diving watches for decades starting in the latter years of the ‘50s. The watches were famously used by SEAL teams from their commissioning in 1962 all the way the late ‘80s. These robust instruments have also served sailors in all types of underwater roles, including UDTs, Seabees and Navy dive school instructors. 

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 The issued TUDOR Submariners have played a role in teaching the basics of scuba diving at the Underwater Swimmers School, all the way to aiding in underwater submarine maintenance at submarine bases in the US and abroad. Issued TUDOR watches also played a role in pioneering innovative underwater technologies under the surface of oceans across the globe.

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Throughout the decades, TUDOR has supported the US Navy as a supplier of issued watches. In the 1965 “First Edition” of the Underwater Demolition Team Handbook, a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7928 is pictured next to the “Diving Watch” paragraph. The handbook was an essential piece of literature for new operators as they studied UDT operational procedures. Later, in 1973, the US Navy Diving manual lists the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7016 and 7021 as “Navy-approved” diving watches. In 1974, the National Stock Number system was introduced to track the supply system of the US Department of Defense. From 1978, under code 6645-01-068-1088, a supply officer could purchase and issue a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 9411, or later 76100, to an approved sailor or operator in need of a reliable Navy-approved dive watch. This specific supply catalog entry was only retired in 2004. 

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Watches issued to members of the military are typically engraved with specific inventory codes, but the US Navy-issued TUDOR watches didn’t follow this pattern. There was never a force-wide, consolidated marking system. Instead, the issued watches were either sterile, or marked at the unit level, with many different coding typologies, most of which were used for inventory purposes. 

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Since many of these watches issued by the US Navy remain unmarked, it makes it quite difficult for watch scholars of today to determine the military provenance of a given TUDOR, even though official records indicate that very large quantities, in a number of references, were delivered over a span of multiple decades.

A UNIQUE SET OF SPECIFICATIONS

Initially developed in conjunction with active duty combat swimmers, the Pelagos FXD case is based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding. For this reason, it includes some functional features that are unique in the TUDOR collection, such as its fixed strap bars, which are directly machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. 

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Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model's characteristic silhouette. Another feature of this model is the ergonomic 60-notch rotating bezel. Unidirectional with a luminescent material-filled 60-minute-graduated ceramic insert, it corresponds to ISO standard 6425:2018 for divers' watches.

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In aesthetic terms, this Pelagos FXD model is inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches historically used by US Navy personnel in the late 60’s through early 80’s. It is black in colour and has the characteristic square hour markers and angular hands, known as “Snowflake”, introduced by the brand in 1969 to increase the intensity of the luminescence of its watches in poor light conditions. It also features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a sand-blasted ceramic insert with luminescent material. Its 42mm titanium case is waterproof to 200 meters and is entirely satin-brushed to produce a matt effect to limit light reflections.

A FABRIC STRAP IN PURE NAVY STYLE

Historically, the US Navy oftentimes had their divers fit their TUDOR watches with fabric straps, typically one-piece ones in black or green made out of nylon. The two straps of the Pelagos FXD nod to this military custom of wearing watches on straps rather than bracelets, with a twist. A one-piece green fabric strap with red central thread and self-gripping fastening system comes as the flagship configuration, while an additional black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap brings a fresh subtle take to a classic look.

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The one-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. 

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For the Pelagos FXD model, a highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure. Made up of a 22mm forest green nylon woven ribbon with a red central thread, a titanium “D” buckle and a self-gripping fastening system, it adapts to different wrist sizes and is very comfortable to wear.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602

The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 that drives the Pelagos FXD model displays the hours, minutes and seconds functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, while its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.

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Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it.

THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH

The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. Waterproof to 100 meters (330 ft), it is the firstborn in a long line of “divers”. Affordable, robust, reliable and precise, it is representative of the tool-watch philosophy of the brand. 

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The seven decades following its introduction have witnessed the constant improvement of this TUDOR divers' watch and those that have gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the greatest military navies in the world. With the introduction in 2021 of the first generation of Pelagos FXD, TUDOR continues to write its underwater story alongside some of the most elite navy units in the world.

THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE

Every TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totalling more than 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. 

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With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since the brand’s creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926 and in line with his vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable and precise as possible. On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted for periodic checks and is transferable. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every ten years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.

TUDOR IS BORNTODARE

In 2017, TUDOR launched a new campaign with the Born To Dare signature. It reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today. It tells the adventures of individuals who have achieved the extraordinary on land, on ice, in the air or underwater, with a TUDOR watch on their wrists. It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of TUDOR, who manufactured TUDOR watches to withstand the most extreme conditions, watches made for the most daring lifestyles.

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It is testimony to TUDOR’s singular approach to watchmaking, which has made it what it is today. At the cutting edge of the watchmaking industry, its innovations are now essential benchmarks. The TUDOR Born To Dare spirit is supported throughout the world by first class ambassadors, whose achievements result directly from a daring approach to life.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES

Collection: PELAGOS

Model: PELAGOS FXD Titanium

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Reference  25717N

CASE
Titanium case, 42mm in diameter, 12.75mm thick, 52mm from lug to lug
Satin-brushed finish fixed strap bars, steel case back
BEZEL
Unidirectional rotating bezel in titanium with ceramic disc, 60-minute graduation
WINDING CROWN
Titanium crown, adorned with the TUDOR shield in relief
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) 

CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre MT5602
TOTAL DIAMETER  31.8 mm
THICKNESS  6.5 mm
JEWELS  25 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE  Certified 70 hours by METAS
PRECISION
Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
DIAL
Matt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELET
Fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system, forest green with red central thread, additional black rubber strap with woven motif and titanium pin buckle, included in the box

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Press Release - 2023
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TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay PRO

TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay PRO Steel 39 mm Chronometer - 2022

 BLACK BAY PRO

TUDOR presents a new technical model with a whole new aesthetic. Named Black Bay Pro, it has a 39-millimetre diameter, a fixed steel bezel and a Manufacture Calibre with built-in GMT function.

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Black Bay Pro is an entirely new model with a dual time zone feature, a technical complication that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in another time zone. Compact, robust and sporty, this model boasts many unique aesthetic details and celebrates the spirit of the technical watches that TUDOR has produced for professionals throughout its history.  

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Recognisable by its 24-hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and its yellow 24-hour "Snowflake" hand, Black Bay Pro is powered by the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function.

KEY POINTS

• Satin-brushed and polished case in stainless steel, 39 mm in diameter, with a 24-hour graduated fixed bezel in stainless steel
• Domed dial, grained matt black, with applied hour markers in monobloc luminous ceramic
• “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches since 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
• Manufacture Calibre MT5652, COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve
• A choice of three bracelet designs: black Jacquard fabric, hybrid rubber and leather or riveted 316L steel with TUDOR "T-fit" clasp with rapid adjustment
• Five-year transferable guarantee with no requirement for registration or periodic maintenance checks

ADVENTURER SPIRIT AND TECHNICAL AESTHETICS

Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, like the 30 explorers who embarked on the two-year British North Greenland Expedition to study Arctic ice exactly 70 years ago, with TUDOR watches on their wrists. Brand founder Hans Wilsdorf supplied watches for the members of the expedition. 

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He had just created the first waterproof and self-winding TUDOR watch, the Oyster Prince model, and couldn't imagine a better environment for testing it than the extreme climate of the Arctic.  

 

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Tudor - Oyster Prince Submariner 7922  is a diver's watch from 1954 ============================================

The Black Bay Pro model reflects the heritage of those instruments used by the pioneering explorers. This is a tool-watch designed for professional use.

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Whilst this model is part of the Black Bay line, it introduces many new and unique aesthetic details, starting with its winding crown which has been entirely redesigned for maximum grip. Reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand's historical technical watches, this new component is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible. In another new feature, the applied hour markers on the dial are made from monobloc luminous ceramic.

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This feature enhances the technical aesthetic of Black Bay Pro whilst considerably increasing the luminous surface of the hour markers. A new bracelet clasp, with a TUDOR "T-fit" rapid size-adjustment system, completes the list of new innovations included in this model. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, the "T-fit" system allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of up to 8mm on the clasp.

TWO TIME ZONES

On the Black Bay Pro model, the reference time is indicated by an angular yellow "Snowflake" hand, an aesthetic hallmark of TUDOR, which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another, shorter "Snowflake" hand set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. 

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The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o'clock, is coupled with the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day. A highly unusual, sophisticated and particularly practical function for the user.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652

The Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function was developed by TUDOR for the Black Bay Pro model. It illustrates the technical development process which is unique to TUDOR, drawing on adaptable architecture capable of including new functions into its manufactured movements rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.

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It has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. 

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Together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. 

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In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is "weekend-proof", about 70 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.

STEEL BRACELET OR JACQUARD-WOVEN OR LEATHER STRAP

The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. 

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Woven in France using a traditional method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR celebrated ten years of collaboration with the hundred-and-fifty-year-old Julien Faure company. The partnership began with the launch of Heritage Chrono, the first model fitted with a fabric strap created by the craftsmen, at Baselworld 2010.

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For the Black Bay Pro, TUDOR has selected a black strap with a yellow band woven by these traditional craftsmen. The model is also available with a stainless steel bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. 

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These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, the Black Bay Pro is also available with a hybrid strap in black rubber and leather with a folding clasp.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers' watches.

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The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over sixty years of TUDOR divers' watches at the same time as being resolutely anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today's more rigorous requirements.

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since the brand’s creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926 and in line with his vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable and precise as possible. 

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On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted to periodic checks and is transferable.

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ABOUT TUDOR

TUDOR is an award-winning Swiss-made watch brand, offering mechanical watches with refined aesthetics, proven reliability and unique value for money. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when "The Tudor" was first registered as a brand on behalf of the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf. He created the Montres TUDOR SA Company in 1946 to offer watches with the quality and dependability of a Rolex, at a more affordable price point. Because of their robustness and affordability, throughout their history TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, underwater and on ice. Today, the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and Royal. Since 2015, TUDOR has also offered mechanical manufacture movements with multiple functions and superior performance.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: HERITAGE

Model: Black Bay PRO 39mm

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REFERENCE 79470

CASE
39 mm x 14.6mm height steel case with polished and satin finish
Open case back in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with sapphire crystal
BEZEL
24-hour graduated fixed bezel in satin-brushed steel
WINDING CROWN
Steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) 
CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre MT5652
TOTAL DIAMETER  31.8 mm
THICKNESS  7.52 mm
JEWELS  28 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE  Certified 70 hours
PRECISION  Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) 
OSCILLATOR  Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
FUNCTIONS
Jumping hours (second time zone), 24 hours, minutes and seconds at the centre
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range synchronised on the jumping hours hand
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
DIAL
Black, domed
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELET
Riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, or hybrid rubber
and fabric strap with steel folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with yellow band and buckle

Price: EUR 3,750 on steel bracelet EUR 3,450 on strap

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Press Release - 2022
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