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De Bethune is creating a one-of-a-kind timepiece for the Mavericks of Time exhibition organised by Ahmed Sediqqi & Sons at the Museum of the Future (MOTF) in Dubai on 9 and 10 November. For this event, celebrating the creativity and boldness of independent watchmaking, the Manufacture is sending a time capsule bearing Love: a universal message of hope for future generations.
The DW5 was the natural choice for this project that was launched in 2022 at the time of the official museum opening, as much for its futuristic, aerodynamic design as for the creative space its case provides.
Designed in 2014 as a continuation of research into shapes and materials, the DW5 becomes De Bethune's iconic deltoid motif, an aesthetic code introduced with the first Dream Watch, which establishes a link between the various creations of the independent Manufacture.
The compact structure of Calibre DB2144V2developed exclusively for the curved asymmetrical case of the DW5, along with the reduced space devoted to the display of its functions – hours, minutes and spherical moon phases – already illustrated Denis Flageollet's desire for a broader aesthetic playground.
"The Dream Watch collection is one of De Bethune's mainstays, designed to push the technical and aesthetic boundaries of the wristwatch. As a concept watch, the DW5 allows me to go beyond simple watchmaking. Like a sculpture, the experimental work carried out on titanium is part of an artistic approach inspired by philosophical and personal reflections.”Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and founder.
Through its choice of materials and finishes as well as the use of original techniques, the DW5 paves the way towards new cultures and concepts, while retaining its identity strongly inspired by aeronautics and space exploration.
DW5Al-Amal: a wrist sculpture brimming with hope and optimism
Named DW5 Al-Amal, this one-of-a-kind timepiece was inspired by the illuminated calligraphic motifs on the exterior façade of the museum to convey a universal message, like a time capsule sent by humanity. Entirely made of mirror-polished titanium, the case is adorned with engravings representing six distinct Arabic calligraphies of the word ‘Love’.
Whether friendly, passionate, carnal, spiritual or unconditional, love in Arabic is pronounced and calligraphed in different ways depending on the nuance it adopts. Among the many Arabic words that express this feeling, those evoking ‘Al-Amal’ friendship, desire, the heart, love, passion and faith have been carefully selected.
These calligraphies pay tribute to an art that elegantly and flowingly transcends mere writing, making words veritable channels of beauty and emotion.
Watchmaking tradition is all about innovation
The art of watchmaking in the 21st century follows in the footsteps of the great master watchmakers of the Age of Enlightenment.
Building on a centuries-old culture, it is shaped and forged on a daily basis, continually integrating the scientific and technological innovations of our time into avant-garde creations, driven by De Bethune's distinctive penchant for introducing philosophical concepts with a cultural mission.
Movement Calibre: DB2144V2 Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement Adjustment: Winding, Spherical moon-phase adjustment and setting the time by means of the crown (3 positions) Functions: Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication
Technical features of calibreDB2144V2 Number of parts: 320 Jewelling: 32 jewels Diameter: 30 mm Power reserve: 5days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004) Specificities: Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring De Bethune Patent (2010)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel Spherical moon-phase indication with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004) Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005) Frequency: 28'800 vibrations per hour Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration Display
Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed-blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004) Dial Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium Case Material: Mirror-polished grade 5 titanium, with 5-axis mechanical engravings representing six Arabic calligraphies meaning: friendship, desire, heart, love, passion and faith. Diameter: lenght 58 mm – width 47 mm Thickness: 16 mm Crystal: Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating Case back: Closed and screwed down case back in mirror- polished grade 5 titanium with aperture on the balance wheel Crown: Mirror-polished and microblasted grade 5 titanium, set with a blue sapphire cabochon Water resistance: 3 ATM Strap Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining Buckle: Pin buckle in Mirror-polished grade 5 titanium
With the release of its 29th in-house calibre, De Bethune is combining its traditional expertise with cutting-edge technology to integrate the first-ever complication into the heart of an emblematic timepiece: the DB25 Starry Varius.
Optimism is growing as the situation in the world improves.
Always quick to keep step with developments, Manufacture De Bethune is offering a travel watch at the very moment when life resumes its course.
The little sister of the DB25 World Traveller introduced in 2016, this new GMT model accentuates the aesthetic appeal and undeniable character of the DB25 Starry Varius.
Invitation to travel
The De Bethune teams set themselves the challenge of developing a travel watch during a period when travel had become difficult, if not impossible, so that when life resumed, it would be ready to takes its place on the wrists of the most discerning globetrotters.
If you can't yet spontaneously meet up with your friends and family, this is an invitation to travel in your mind. The DB25GMT Starry Varius does indeed offer a simple and effective way to stay connected through time by indicating the time zone in which your loved one lives.
"What on earth was I thinking of in working on a new GMT travel watch while all the countries of the world were entering lockdown? I am pleased that it is now finished and that all the nomads of the planet can finally resume their journey, doubtless with a different view of our world." Denis Flageollet, Founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune
An evolving Starry Varius
Incorporating all the inherent codes of the DB25 Starry Varius collection, namely a polished grade 5 titanium case with a 42 mm diameter, a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way, perfectly integrated openworked lugs, and a screw-down sapphire caseback providing a glimpse of the movement, this new adaptation of the DB25 World Traveller has everything it takes to win over its future owner.
Despite housing such a complicated movement, it is nonetheless slim and elegant on the wrist, even reinforcing the already greatly appreciated characteristics of theDB25 Starry Varius. Its user friendliness and the smooth setting of the GMT movement make it an intelligent and remarkably beautiful watch.Reading the dial
Starting from the centre, the dial indicates the date on the first disc with the help of its jumping date hand, which can be adjusted via a corrector at 6 o'clock. The hours of the first 24-hour time zone (home or reference time) are marked by the microsphere in a mysterious manner, as it appears to be floating weightless in its corridor. This function can be set in both directions (clockwise/counter-clockwise) via the crown.
Local time, i.e. the second time zone, is indicated by the blued hands whose curvature follows the relief of the dial. The minutes hand naturally remains coordinated with the reference time, while the hours hand indicates the local time thanks to the second time zone. Local time can also be set by the crown, in both directions.
The GMT function
Despite its complex construction, this mechanical GMT movement is very simple to use, with concentrically arranged functions. First of all, the owner uses the crown to set his reference time, known as home time, which is indicated by the microsphere on the 24-hour dial.
Representing De Bethune's technical signature since its development of the three-dimensional moon-phase display, this microsphere indicates day and night thanks to its two halves: one blue and the other pink. It gradually turns at 6am and 6pm, thereby imitating sunrise and sunset. Secondly, the wearer sets his second time zone by means of the hours hand which is controlled via the crown pulled out to the second position.
Day/night
In the centre of the curved dial, De Bethune offers us a poetic vision of our sky by day and by night. A polished pink gold sun in the centre of a microlight shines over half the disc, while the celestial vault is delicately outlined on the blued polished titanium section.
The vision provided is of a miniature night sky, dotted with a multitude of small white gold pins delicately and individually driven into a blued titanium dial. The Milky Way is then hand-crafted using micro laser strokes and 24-carat gold leaf.
Technical spirit
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the reverse side of the movement reveals the latest titanium balance with white gold inlays. This organ has the ability to neutralise the effects of temperature variations thanks to its interaction with the balance spring featuring the “De Bethune” flat terminal curve.
Its aerodynamics have also been worked on so as to ensure minimal air resistance. The escape-wheel is made of silicon both for the lightness of the material and to increase the power of the calibre. The regulator is held in place by a triple pare-chute system which combines a titanium bridge integrating two jewels held in place by a leaf-spring system pressing on the jewels.
The two barrels, which are partially visible, have a five-day power reserve thanks to a self-regulating energy mechanism.
A mechanical treasure
While simple and beautiful in appearance, this timepiece nevertheless conceals a mechanical treasure, since it is equipped with the latest hand-wound Calibre DB2507.
This is the 29th movement from De Bethune, which once again demonstrates bold technical mastery and expertise by fitting a GMT movement into a Starry Varius case and reproducing a miniature starry sky. The complication and its display have been entirely redesigned with a view to optimising legibility and operating convenience, thereby ideally meeting travellers’ expectations.
Movement: Calibre DB2507 Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement Adjustment: Winding, setting the local and travel time (GMT) by means of the crown (3 positions ) – Secure bidirectional systems Via a corrector at 6 for the date hand (clockwise)
Technical featuresof calibre DB25 07 Number of parts: 368 Jewelling: 40 jewels Diameter: 30 mm Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin-barrel – A De BethuneInnovation (2004) Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration De BethunePatent (2016 ) “De Bethune” balance – spring with flat terminal curve – De BethunePatent (2006 ) Silicon escape wheel Microsphere Day/night indicator in rose gold and blued steel s imilar decoration technic of the spherical moon phase – De BethunePatent (2004) Triple pare – chute shock-absorbing system De BethuneInnovation (2005) Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour Adornment: Curved mirror-polished steel plate cover Steel barrel bridge cover, mirror – polished and adorned with “ Côtes De Bethune ” enhanced with m icrolight decoration in its center – De Bethune innovation 2016 Hand snailed barrels Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts Display Display: Hand-polished curved hands in rose gold Hand-polished flamed-blued date hand with polished end Day/night indicator in rose gold 5N and blued steel of the microsphere – similar decoration technic of the spherical moon phase – De Bethune Patent (2004) date Dial and flanges: Curved date ring in blued titanium with gold transfer Silver curved hour ring Rose gold curved minute ring Silver 24h sub-dial with two-tone decals Central dial in 2 parts : blue polished titanium with white gold pins/ radiant silver microlight decoration with a sunburst insert in polished rose gold Case and strap Case material: Rose gold 5N Case diameter: 42 mm Case thickness: 11,8 mm Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs Crystal: In sapphire crystal ( 1800 Vickers hardness ) with double anti – reflective coating Case back: Open back in rose gold 5N and sapphire crystal ( 1800 Vickers hardness ) with double anti – reflective coating Water – resistance: 3 ATM Strap: Extra – supple alligator leather, alligator lining Buckle: Pin buckle in rose gold 5N
De Bethune unveils the DB28xs Steel Wheels, a creation that transcends the concept of simple miniaturization. Behind its reduced dimensions lies a design of remarkable uniqueness, where every detail goes far beyond its compact size and functionality.Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Representing the perfect union of technical innovation and contemporary
aesthetics, this model offers a bold reinterpretation of the iconic DB28 Steel Wheels in a more compact format, with a case measuring just 39 mm and a thickness of 8mm. This remarkable evolution embodies the brand’s commitment to contemporary watchmaking.
The DB28 Steel Wheels, launched in 2018, embodies the spirit of transparency and light, revealing the contemporary architecture of its movement through an openworked dial. Marked by its iconic delta-shaped bridge—De Bethune’s signature—and its moon positioned at 6 o'clock, this watch stands out with a harmonious composition of hemispherical, concave, and spherical forms, offering a result that is both architectural and dynamic.
DB28xsSteel Wheels: The Art of Miniaturization
True to De Bethune's pioneering spirit, the DB28xs Steel Wheels embodies the brand’s ongoing quest to push the boundaries of modern watchmaking. By reducing the case diameter to 39 mm, De Bethune didn’t simply miniaturize the original DB28 Steel Wheels; the Manufacture created a new watch that preserves all the architectural and technical richness of its predecessor, while adapting it to a more intimate size.
"There is no point in working unless it is to progress, and the only way to achieve that is by constantly questioning oneself. Continuously revisiting and rethinking the work, evolving it by modifying an element, a process, or a technique, and sometimes making subtle, often imperceptible improvements," comments Denis Flageollet.
A Smaller Design, Greater Intensity
The DB28xs Steel Wheels is instantly recognizable by its openworked dial, which reveals the intricate beauty of its movement. The titanium case, smaller yet equally sophisticated, enhances the harmonious blend of hemispherical, concave, and spherical shapes. This miniature design plays with light and shadow, creating a dial with captivating depth that appears almost weightless.
High-Precision Watchmaking Technique
Beneath the openworked dial lies the manually wound De Bethune caliber DB2115V13, meticulously refined to deliver exceptional chronometric performance.
The titanium balance wheel, equipped with grey gold weights, ensures perfect inertia and regulation, while the De Bethune balance spring, with its unique flat terminal curve, guarantees unparalleled precision. The 6-day power reserve, a 20% improvement, is a testament to the brand's uncompromising craftsmanship.
Comfort and Compact Elegance
Thanks to its reduced size, the DB28xs Steel Wheels offers exceptional wearing comfort. The lightweight titanium case, combined with patented floating lugs, naturally adapts to wrist movements. With the DB28xs Steel Wheels, De Bethune reinvents one of its iconic creations in a more intimate version, without compromising on either technique or aesthetics.
This watch embodies the essence of De Bethune's watchmaking art: a perpetual quest for innovation, precision, and beauty, now available in a 39mm format that will appeal to enthusiasts of exceptional timepieces.
Function: Hours, minutes Power reserve on the back Movement Calibre DB2115V13 Mechanical hand-wound movement Diameter: 30 mm Number of parts: 241 Number of jewels: 36 Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004) Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration Specificities Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016) "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006) Silicon escape wheel Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005) Dial: Circular satin-finish titanium hours and minutes ring with polished blued titanium hour-markers Titanium barrel bridge with microlight decoration and sandblasted and polished chamfered contours Polished titanium dial base Polished blued titanium hands Case Material: Polished grade 5 titanium Diameter: 38.7 mm Thickness: 8 mm Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006) Crystal: Sapphire with double anti-reflective coating Caseback: Screwed case back in polished grade 5 titanium opened on a linear power reserve indicator with microlight decoration Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating Water resistance: 3 ATM Strap: Textile/leather strap Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin
Representing the quintessence of De Bethune-style Haute Horlogerie, the DB Kind of Grande Complication is a veritable compendium of the core technical and aesthetic attributes that have been invented and built up over 22 years of innovation, research and creativity within the Manufacture.Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO
Encapsulating the memory and culture of De Bethune in an exceptional timepiece that illustrates the technical and artistic expertise and excellence cultivated in its L’Auberson workshops was the challenge taken up by Denis Flageollet and his high-flying team.
The DB Kind of Grande Complication is the culmination of a young watchmaker's dream, as he gazed in wonder at double-sided grand complication models and already anticipated creating such a timepiece. After many years of design and development at De Bethune, Denis Flageollet has at last brought it to life by drawing on all the resources and philosophy of the Manufacture, which perpetuates the innovative spirit of the great classical watchmaking achievements characterising the Age of Enlightenment.
DB Kind of Grande Complication, a compendium ofDe Bethunetechniques and innovation
The choice of a reversible double-sided case was entirely natural, since it not only unites a large number of complications, but also allows provides scope for free-spirited aesthetic expression through the dual display of the various functions. The case is also interesting in that it incorporates a rotation system (a novel feature introduced in 2021) mounted on floating lugs which – by means of an ingenious micro-mechanism – enable the case to pivot around its central axis in a smooth, accurate swivelling movement. More than 60 components – 50 of which relate to the water-resistant part and are therefore perfectly rustproof – are involved in positioning the dial on either side. A cam-operated indexing system ensures perfect alignment of the case with the floating lugs that follow the curves of the wrist.
The rounded design of its classically inspired case with its crown at 12 o'clock on the contemporary side (6 o'clock on the traditional side) conceals the technical challenges of a double case complexified by a multiple display of several functions and the combination within a single calibre of eight different horological complications: perpetual calendar, spherical moon-phase indication, retrograde age of the Moon and leap years, ultra-light tourbillon in blued titanium, jumping seconds, power reserve as well as the double display of hours and minutes.
Integrating each of the 751 components involved in its exterior and movement required much more thought than assembling the various complications separately. Rethinking the calibre as a functional whole so that each complication interacts in perfect harmony is a technical feat that would be inconceivable without total technical mastery of all the innovations and patents involved in the Manufacture's 32 calibres.DB Kind of Grande Complication, reaffirming a powerful contemporary aesthetic
A contemporary side displays the refined structure of Calibre DB2529, the end of the power reserve and the age of the Moon by means of a retrograde silver-toned indicator that facilitates accurate updating of the lunar day. It highlights the contrast between the hectic 36,000 vph pace of the De Bethune 30" tourbillon – one of the fastest and lightest on the market – and the ample, subdued beat of the slender mirror-polished steel hand marking off the seconds.
This contrast is orchestrated at 6 o'clock by 63 components – essentially made of titanium and weighing a total of just 0.18 g (the lightest of them weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 g) – and by a central jumping seconds mechanism composed of two gold wheels driven by a double pallet-lever with four pallets, setting a noble cadence for the passing of time.
An aesthetic symbol of the brand, the mirror-polished deltoid bridge supports the asymmetry of the gear trains featuring subtle decorations pushed to extremes on even the slimmest components. Each one, through its function and finishing, contributes to the calibre’s understated aesthetic and technical silence.
Another classically restrained side features a dial with a perpetual calendar enhanced by a three dimensional moon-phase display as well as by the Manufacture's signature starry sky.
Light is resolutely at the heart of the Maison’s creative process and reflected here in the blued mirror polished titanium of the dial, revealing through multiple shimmering effects the different tones endowing the De Bethune Blue with its unique character. The hand-decorated sky is hand-fitted with small white gold pins depicting the stars and adorned with Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro-milling and gilded with 24-carat gold leaf.
Much like our observation of the sky, the moon phases can be read off at 3 o'clock by means of a homogeneous sphere spinning on its axis and composed of two perfectly balanced half-spheres in flame-blued steel and mirror-polished palladium. The reproduction of the different movements of this heavenly body is supported by a high-precision mechanism that takes a full 112 years to accumulate a one-day deviation.
Faced with the volume required by such a sphere within the limited space of the watch, the technical solution introduced in 2004 was to gently bend the hands downwards to ensure they could glide smoothly over the Moon, a curved shape that would become one of the brand’s typical distinctive features.
Like the leap-year indicator aligned at 3 o'clock, the subtle play of superimposed blues in the counter rings and apertures, along with the gilded juxtaposition of the day, month and date displays, blend seamlessly into the sky and the Milky Way without ever losing their legibility.
The extremely fine opaline silvering of the hours and minutes ring, the soft lines borrowed from the hunter-type case, the graphic design of the numerals, the style of the hands and the starry sky are all cultural references to 18th century fine watchmaking, the age of the great regulators and marine chronometers.
Producing such a Grand Complication model is fraught with perilous technical challenges, as each stage is crucial to the great ordeal of final assembly. Above and beyond technical knowledge and solid experience in the realm of Haute Horlogerie, this exercise requires values surpassing those of an ordinary workbench.
According to Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and founder of De Bethune, "My watchmakers are like top-level athletes. To ensure that they don't fail in the final stretch and run the risk of compromising the integrity of the timepiece, they demonstrate extraordinary, imperturbable mental strength, along with extreme concentration and almost motionless posture.”
In the manner of a master sculpture or classical music concerto, the DB Kind of Grande Complication is a true composition. It captures the essence of the Maison and conveys through its very presence a universal emotion and energy that stems from the multiple attributes it harbours: the innovative purpose of the “Horlofaber”, a legacy of traditional expertise, along with in-depth watchmaking and artistic culture expressed through a powerful contemporary aesthetic. It is the ultimate embodiment of the De Bethune spirit.
Case Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium Diameter: 43.3 mm Thickness: 13.85 mm Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs, De Bethune Patent (2006) With case turning mechanism that can be clearly positioned on the front or back side Crown: at noon on the front side, at 6 o'clock on the reverse side, and integrated into the case Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating Caseback: Screwed case back in blued grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator Crystal doubles-sides: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM) Dial and hands Dial: Minute sub-dial, 30'' sub-dial and moon day sub-dial silvered and relief Classic reverse side display Display: Polished yellow gold hour, minute and date hands Spherical moon phase and leap year indicator at 3 o'clock Blue day and month discs with gold relief Star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars - Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
Silvered and relief hour and minute ring Date sub-dial in blued sandblasted titanium with gold relief at 9 o'clock Blue day and month discs with gold relief
Movement Caliber DB2529 Mechanical hand-wound movement Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means means of the crown (2 positions) Diameter: 30 mm Number of parts: 751 Number of jewels: 48 Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour Power reserve:4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004) Adornment:Winding, setting the date and the time by means of the crown (3 positions) Month, day of the week and spherical moon-phase adjustment via correctors on the case Function Dual front and back display of hours and minutes, jumping seconds, Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium, Spherical moon-phase indication, leap-year indication, perpetual calendar indicating day, month and date, end of power reserve indication, age of the moon indication Specificities Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016) "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006) Silicon escape wheel Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium De Bethune Innovation (2008) Spherical moon-phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004) Retrograde age of the moon indication De Bethune Innovation (2013) Strap and buckle Strap:Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium
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