Wednesday, August 17, 2022

Moritz Grossmann – BENU Date Turquoise Edition

Moritz Grossmann BENU Date Turquoise Guilloché Dial Edition 2022

 DATE Turquoise – a historic royal craft presented in a cool, new look

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Moritz Grossmann launches a date watch with guilloché dial in the on-trend colour turquoise

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 • Guilloché dial in turquoise
• Jumping date display
• Peripheral date scale with bracket-shaped date marker
• Limited edition of only 18 pieces worldwide

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The glittering sea, a swimming pool and the ice of a glacier: the colour turquoise is pure inspiration and as such gives rise to positive vibes and a feel-good factor. Jumping into the soothing cool waters of a swimming pool on a hot summer’s day, an alpine panorama with turquoise-blue glaciers or the blue-green sea dappled with sunlight: these are but a few of the associations people make with the trendy colour turquoise.

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With the new expressive DATE Turquoise variant, the independent manufactory Moritz Grossmann presents its successful date model in a new, fresh and yet sophisticated look.

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The most eye-catching feature of this watch is its beautiful guilloché dial in turquoise. The special edition, which is limited to a run of 18 pieces, was created in collaboration with exquisite dial manufactory Comblémine by Kari Voutilainen in Switzerland's Val-de-Travers

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The brilliantly iridescent guilloché on the main dial and subsidiary seconds draw the eye and will lend any outfit a special touch – exciting, artistic and very, very cool. The new look is completed by the case made from polished stainless steel, which is another completely new style element for the DATE.

Guilloché a royal craft

Guilloché is an ancient craft that only a few experts today are still able to master. It has its origins in artistic wood turning and was taught mainly in high aristocratic circles in the 16th-18th centuries.

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A geometric pattern comprising several fine lines is engraved into the dial using a guilloché machine. It is highly demanding work that needs to be carried out with full concentration and excellent visual judgement to ensure consistent depth and spacing between the lines. Only in this way is an impression of perfect regularity crafted. The extremely fine grooves are polished to a high gloss using a diamond, giving rise to fascinating reflections of light.

Dial and handsan interplay of colour in turquoise and blue

The guilloché pattern on the dial and solid silver subsidiary seconds are furnished with a special coating. Depending on the angle the light falls, it creates a dynamic interplay of subtle turquoise shades that are reminiscent of rays of sun on a shimmering body of water.

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The minute scale has been moved slightly inwards, creating space for the complete date scale from 1 to 31. The dial numerals in blue contrast sharply with the light background. The hours and minutes are impressed onto a silver ring in dot form. The combination of the iridescent turquoise of the guilloché and the case made from stainless steel creates a cohesive overall impression of perfectly coordinated colours and shapes.

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The lance-shaped hands of the DATE Turquoise are handcrafted and finished in the manufactory and then annealed in blue to match the circumferential date scale. The blued bracket-shaped date marker is also elaborately crafted by hand.

Calibre 100.3 with jumping date displayadjustable in both directions, including just before midnight

The date display, a complication much in demand and talked about by watch connoisseurs, is a comparatively recent development in the history of the mechanical wristwatch. Only at the start of the 20th century did the first wristwatches with date hand start to appear.

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A unique aspect of the DATE Turquoise is the calibre 100.3 with jumping date display. It is a combination of precise, legible display and mechanical sophistication coupled with a high level of convenience. The complete date scale from 1 to 31 and the unusual bracket shape of the date marker underpin the elegance and functionality of the DATE Turquoise.

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One special feature is that the time and date can be adjusted just before midnight and straight after midnight. The hand is positioned exactly on the right date via a click spring. In addition to the precise jumping date display, this date adjustment benefits from the fact that the switching finger does not interfere with the switching wheel except for the jump to the next date, a process that lasts a matter of milliseconds. As such, the date can be adjusted forwards and backwards at any time while the movement carries on running.

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To correct the date, for example at the end of the month, there is a separate setting crown at 10 o’clock. This crown is not active in the normal position, thus preventing accidental adjustment. To adjust the date, the crown has to be pulled out. The movement carries on running and the date can be changed by turning the crown in either direction.

Schönstes deutsches Handwerkthe highest level of precision and refinement

The rear of the watch also offers a striking display of colour thanks to the sapphire crystal back. The artistically finished calibre 100.3 with the Grossmann balance, the ratchet wheel with 3-band snailing and the hand-engraved cantilevered balance cock with regulator arm and Grossmann micrometer screw is a work of art dedicated to precision. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOThe finest cuts and polishes allow the whole ensemble to sparkle in a multitude of ways. The screws, annealed by hand in violet, are in perfect but subtle harmony with the German silver, steel and gold shades.

The Grossmann manual winder with pusher

The manual winding with pusher developed in-house contains a perfected hand setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential problem areas: avoiding the ingress of foreign particles during the adjustment process and altering the hands unintentionally when pushing the crown back into place.

Limited edition

The DATE Turquoise is limited to a run of 18 pieces worldwide and available at the net retail price of EUR 42,500. The watch is completed by a fine hand-sewn strap made from black alligator leather.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model: ATUM Date Turquoise


Case     Stainless steel
Dial      Turquoise, solid silver with Guilloché    
Hands  Hand-made; hour, minute, seconds, date marker blue annealed

\Limited edition    18 watches worldwide

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 Reference    MG-003406 - Stainless steel


Movement   
Manufacture calibre 100.3, manually wound, adjusted in five positions

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No. of parts:    259
No. of jewels:    26, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement:    Lever escapement 
Movement dimensions:    Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.55 mm
Oscillator:     Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws,  
Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry

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Balance:    Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve:   42 hours when fully wound
Functions    
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, date display, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Special features   
Grossmann balance;  hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; precisely jumping date display with a peripheral marker; bidirectional date adjustment with a second crown at 10 o‘clock; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
Operating elements   
Two crowns in 750/000 gold to wind the watch and set the time and the date, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the watch
Case
Three-part, precious metal 
Case:  Three-part, stainless steel
Dimensions: 
Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.85 mm
Dial
Solid silver, guilloché
Hands:    Handcrafted, steel; hour, minute and seconds, date marker blue annealed
Crystal and display back:    Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap  
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in stainless steel

Limited edition  18 pieces

Price: Recommended retail EUR 42,500 (excl. taxes) 💰



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PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Sandra Behrens – Head of Communications & Marketing
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
sandra.behrens@grossmann-uhren.com
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