Louis Vuitton – TAMBOUR Carpe Diem

 Louis Vuitton – TAMBOUR Carpe Diem Jacquemart Unique Watch 2021

The 21 st century jacquemart watch

Louis Vuitton wanted to give jacquemarts back their original meaning. In order to do this, the framework of the Tambour Carpe Diem was built around two major axes, a perfect mastery of this type of calibre in which the automaton is truly functional  as it tells the time on demand, without hands. By combining exclusive high watchmaking caliber with a subversive Vanitas, Louis Vuitton orchestrates a scintillating show with the Tambour Carpe Diem. This virtuoso timepiece writes a new chapter in the history of the jacquemart watch.

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After having secretly carried out several special orders for automatic watches for a few customers, Louis Vuitton decided to lift part of the mystery by creating a unique model. 

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Two years of development were necessary for the Tambour Carpe Diem to see the light of day and integrate the Maison's watch collections. “Our goal was to think outside the box,” explains Michel Navas, Master Watchmaker at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. "We wanted to bring to Jacquemart our vision of the 21st century with all the ardor and creativity that have characterized our House since it invested in watchmaking in 2002." 

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Originally, jacquemarts were automatons designed to strike the hours on church steeples. When watchmakers miniaturized them on watches, their function became essentially decorative - to animate the dial of a sketch -, the time traditionally remaining indicated by classic hands.

Watchmaking performance  

Not content with allowing its model to keep up with the passage of time, Louis Vuitton has added additional horological complications to it.  

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The Tambour Carpe Diem has four. A jumping hour, a retrograde minute, a power reserve display and the automaton's animation mechanism, which are also four in number ... “The feat was to design a mechanical movement that was powerful enough to integrate and smoothly running all these functions that had never been combined before, ”explains Michel Navas.

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On the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time can be read on demand. To reveal it, you have to press the reptile-shaped push-button, to the right of the case.

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The central snake head rises to reveal the hours window placed on the front of the skull while the rattlesnake tail oscillates in the direction of the minutes, positioned under the hourglass of the power reserve. That's when the skull becomes mocking, winks in the shape of Monogram Flowers that appear in one of its sockets.

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His jaw lets out a laugh that spelled out "Carpe Diem". "Seize the present day", in the words of the poet Horace, inviting man to take advantage of each passing day. This striking spectacle which lasts 16 seconds is all the more remarkable as the movements of the reptile like those of the skull are of a confusing, harmonious naturalness. The readability of this unique complication watch is unmatched. 

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Having produced several special orders for watches with automata in secret for a select group of clients, Louis Vuitton now presents the Tambour Carpe Diem, a one of a kind model that combines exclusive high watchmaking caliber with a subversive Vanitas.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

The framework of the Tambour Carpe Diem was built around two major axes, a perfect mastery of this type of calibre in which the automaton is truly functional as it tells the time on demand, without hands.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

By pressing a push-piece, the dial’s miniature scenery comes to life on the wrist and the story’s protagonists, the snake and the skull which perform the role of jacquemarts, indicate the time.

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To this is added another determining feature in the creation of this high-watchmaking timepiece, a unique stylistic approach on the historic symbolic art theme of the Vanitas, tackled in a way that is both positive and subversive.

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Not content simply to allow the model to mark the passing of time, Louis Vuitton has provided additional watch complications. The Tambour Carpe Diem has four of these. A jumping hour, a retrograde minute, a power reserve display and the mechanism of the automata of which there are also four.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

On the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time can be read on demand. To reveal it, simply push the reptile-shaped push-piece on the right of the case. The central snake’s head lifts up to reveal the hour aperture positioned on the forehead of the skull, while the rattlesnake tail oscillates towards the minutes, placed below the power reserve hourglass.

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While Monogram Flowers appear in lieu of an eye, the skull’s jaw emits a mocking laugh from which emerge the words “Carpe Diem” – “Seize the day”, in the words of the poet Horace, encouraging people to make the most of every passing day.

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This amazing spectacle, which lasts for 16 seconds, is all the more remarkable as the reptile and skull move in such a bafflingly harmonious way. Entirely developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, this calibre LV 525 demonstrates true high-watchmaking prowess and is currently the subject of several patent applications.

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Another unique feature of the Tambour Carpe Diem is the design of its movement. Visible on the back of the timepiece, the calibre has been assembled in the shape of a skull, echoing the Vanitas on the dial.

An ultra-sophisticated contemporary aesthetic

An ultra-sophisticated contemporary aesthetic Depicted since the 15th century on pocket watches and clocks, these skulls, skeletons and hourglasses are an allegory of the passing of time.

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In order to bring this Vanitas up-to-date, Louis Vuitton has modernised its attributes, entrusting its manufacture to the very best Swiss craftsmen such as Anita Porchet for the enamelling and Dick Steenman for the engraving.

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Over 50 hours’ work were dedicated to enamelling the snake and the dial. To bring to life the rattlesnake that appears in profile on the case’s push-piece, Dick Steenman crafted gold in a profiled, fluid manner in order to accentuate the crawling effect.

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Sculpted from gold with incredible precision, the skull, reptile and hourglass are enhanced by the timeless modernity of Louis Vuitton emblems. Like the Monogram flowers engraved on the skull, tattooed on the snake’s scales or appearing in blood red on the skull’s eye socket.

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The delicacy, transparency and colours of the enamel, which are particularly remarkable and realistic on the teeth of the jacquemart, enhance the relief on the dial, suggesting – even when the hour has not struck – the idea of movement, inspiring the protagonists of the Tambour Carpe Diem in a celebration of existence.

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About Louis Vuitton  

Since 1854, Louis Vuitton has offered unique creations, where technical innovation is combined with the requirement of style while striving for the highest quality. The House remains faithful to the spirit of Louis, its founder and inventor of the " Art of travel ”. Its luggage, bags and accessories were as innovative as they were elegant and ingenious. Even today, daring dictates the history of Louis Vuitton. Faithful to its heritage, the Maison has opened its doors to architects, artists and designers while investing in new areas of expression such as ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, watches, jewelry, and even perfume. . These products, produced with great care, attest to Louis Vuitton’s commitment to high quality craftsmanship.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: TAMBOUR Carpe Diem 

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• Ref. Q1EN0Y

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical movement developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
Jacquemart mechanism featuring 4 animations, jumping hour, retrograde minute hand, power reserve indicator
Calibre: LV 525 
426 components
100 hours of power reserve
21,600 oscillations per hour
48 jewels
Case
18K pink gold case and horns
18K pink gold hand-carved crown and push-piece, push-piece set with 2 rubies
46.8 mm diameter
14.42 mm thickness
Domed anti-reflection sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial
Enamel and miniature hand-painting by Anita Porchet (dial, snake & teeth)
Hand engravings by Dick Steenman (dial, snake, skull, teeth & hourglass)
Hourglass made of curved glass
Dial set with a brilliant-cut diamond
Strap
Black alligator strap
18K pink gold double folding buckle

Box
High Watchmaking Trunk

Gem-setting
💎1 brilliant-cut diamond for ~0.02 carat and 💎2 rubies for ~0.01 carat
 

 Price  USD 460.000 $

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Press releases - 2021
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