Thursday, May 23, 2013

AkriviA - SATURN Chronograph Edition


AkriviA -  SATURN Chronograph Limited Edition NEW 

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An Exceptional Brand
AkriviA was born of the meeting of two promising personalities from Geneva’s horology galaxy, Rexhep Rexhepi and Etienne Deschamps.

This brand has established itself within the great traditions of horology, that of ingenious mechanisms of the first clocks, with the most refined complications. It is with the ambition of the great players in the world of horology and the Arts that Akrivia, today, presents exceptional timepieces, aligning heritage with the reinterpretation of contemporary aestheticism.

Rexhep Rexhepi

It was at the tender age of 12 that this young horology aficionado left Kosovo for Geneva.

A passionate and committed student, he obtained his horology diploma from Patek Philippe. Geneva’s great watchmaking house wished to keep him on and offered him his first contract as a professional watchmaker. Over a period of two years, this tireless and inquisitive young man would work in virtually every atelier of the watchmaking house.

Upon being noticed by BNB Concept, he perfected his skills whilst working on complicated mechanisms. At the age of 20, he was made manager of the atelier.

Francois-Paul Journe also took interest in the young and talented watchmaker, and put him in charge of mounting some world re-known calibres.

Despite being more than fulfilled in his job, Rexhep aspired to be more independent. His experience gained alongside the greatest stimulated his creativity, and it was at night, after long days at work, that his project to launch his own brand matured. The first time-keeper conceived by his own hands was a tourbillon chronograph. He then partnered with Etienne Deschamps, a young horologer sharing the same aspirations.

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Etienne Deschamps

Etienne Deschamps grew up in the Geneva countryside, far from the established and prestigious watchmakers.

It was almost by accident, at the age of 15, that he became acquainted with horology. More than being just a job, he discovered in it an identity, a tradition, and roots. He then began his apprenticeship with the Chopard house.

After four years of study, he was awarded the title of best watchmaker in Geneva for his end-of-year exams.

With a deep desire to travel the world, Etienne spent eight months in Brisbane, in the Australian Queensland, to perfect his English and satiate his taste for adventure. A few months after his return, Chopard offered him the position of Method Agent.

It was not easy though to stay put after having had a taste of freedom and travel. Etienne therefore jumped onto a new opportunity: that of setting up his own business.

A methodical and patient man, he left the comforts of a secure job to return to university, where he later obtained a Bachelors degree in Management at the ESM, Management and Communication school.


AkriviA was born.


The Saturn, an exceptional timepiece that combines two complications, two worlds, two styles, two watchmaking approaches

LIMITED EDITION OF 10 STEEL SAMPLES

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If timepieces endowed with a tourbillon chronograph movement are rare, those that combine both fine watchmaking and technicality are even rarer. AkriviA's Saturn timepiece is one of them.

The initial challenge was to design a watch with a hint of sportiness and a chronograph with the precision and elegance of a tourbillon, to create a timepiece that is both a time-measuring instrument and a work of art.
Defying the aesthetic principles of "techno-sport" with its surplus of angles, facets and screws that are now obsolete, the Saturn model imposes itself as a unique timepiece, innovatively designed, and combining character, style and the watchmaking spirit.

With every sketch along the way, shapes, images and intuitions emerged. Soon after, a circular dial surrounded by an elliptically shaped case emerged and became the starting point, the structure, the matrix of the timepiece's design. It is also based on this sketch of a circle surrounded by an ellipse, which resembles the planet Saturn, that ended up giving this model its name in the form of an analogy. Saturn is also a mythological divinity: the god of time, who is usually depicted as carrying an hourglass, the chronograph’s ancient ancestor.

The design of the watch was conceived in a holistic fashion, a harmony between style and function, although the finishings are far from simple, each shape has its reason for being. In this respect, the conical bezel immediately drawing the eye to the center of this timepiece, disappears discreetly to highlight, as with a pedestal, an exceptional movement in which some parts are revealed through openings on the dial functioning like a window of time, like a memento mori. The case-side and the lugs have sporty and dynamic curves, which are highlighted by different matte and shiny finishings in a resolutely contemporary spirit.

AkriviA offers a very ambitious timepiece in terms of design and watchmaking.
 
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For this first model, The Saturn,  AkriviA offers us a timepiece that is both very ambitious and mature in terms of design and watchmaking.

CASE
The design and complexity of its surfaces make the AkriviA case a remarkable one. The surfaces, sometimes matte and sometimes polished, alternate throughout the entire case over a dozen times. These complex finishings are rendered even more challenging due to the large number of 45 ° angles, which are all made by hand.

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TOURBILLON
In addition to being an ornament, the tourbillon is the regulating organ of the timepiece, which ensures its reliability. Every detail has been extensively studied, from the tourbillon cage to the balance wheel. The tourbillon is astounding due to its size, its elegant proportions and the quality of its finishings. 
 

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The perfect example is the upper bridge of the tourbillon cage: it has eight inward angles which are hand-chamfered, and its upper surface is entirely mirror-polished.

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CHRONOGRAPH AND DIAL

The tourbillon, visible on the dial side of the timepiece, powers the chronograph mechanism once it is engaged. This original feature gives the movement its unique character.
When the chronograph is activated by the monopusher at 2 o’clock, the PVD dial reveals through its openings some remarkable features that become animated:

- At 4 o’clock, the clutch lever that is directly engaged by the tourbillon cage is visible. At the center of the chronograph’s seconds counters, the hammer is activated by each reset and strikes the second-counter heart cam; and at 12 o’clock the column wheel moves a notch with each press of the pusher.

- Between 8 and 9 o'clock, one can read the indication of the power reserve of the movement that reaches 100 hours when it is fully wound, and 70 hours with the chronograph engaged.
- The brand’s name is hand engraved on a mirror-polished steel plate screwed on the dial at 12 o'clock and finished with inward angles. A second polished plate with a similar shape is fitted at the bottom of the dial revealing the tourbillon’s elegance.

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The attention given to the finishings and decorations make this timepiece a must-have in terms of haute horlogerie

DIAL SIDE 
Created according to the highest standards of traditional Swiss watchmaking, all components of the chronograph movement were made by hand. The engravings, chamfering, matte finishings, cicle grain finishings, the mirror polishing and some 36 inward angles constitute all the finishings.Under the chronograph bridge, you can see more of the hammer and gear teeth, with another specificity; the wheels. They have been specially cut with a patented design by AkriviA.

TOURBILLON
The tourbillon seduces us with its size, its elegant proportions and the quality of its finishings. The 10 inward angles and mirror polished surfaces complete this unique haute horlogerie mechanism.

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MOVEMENT SIDE
The sapphire case-back reveals a structure in accordance with the purest tradition of Geneva. The different bridges are all adorned with straight Côtes de Genève, created with boxwood and covered in diamond paste.
A mirror-polished steel plate is enthroned in the center of the movement and draws the eye of the connoisseur.
 
The movement bridges - all beveled by hand - bring rigidity to the masterpiece, that is necessary for accurate chronometric results. This construction is inspired by marine chronometers, which must be accurate under all circumstances. This is also why the Saturn timepiece maintains a sporty essence.
On the baseplate decorated with a fine stippling, and hand-chamfered, one notices the steel ratchet wheel and the barrel. The center wheel and the intermediary wheel are both angled, have circular-graining and are plated with yellow gold. The AkriviA logo, the "Manufacturé à Genève" inscription as well as the rest of the inscriptions are hand engraved by the famous artisan Richard Lundin.
Each timepiece is unique and entirely assembled by hand by the same watchmaker. Only 10 samples of this ultra-exclusive timepiece will be manuafactured.

The technical construction of the movement have been realized in collaboration with MHC SA, Manufacture Haute Complication.


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Technical summary

Manufactured in Geneva
Tourbillon movement with a column wheel mono-pusher chronograph
Hand chamfered movement components, stippling of the baseplate, Côtes de Genève
Frequency: 21,600 vph
Balance wheel with gold screws.
Power reserve: 100 hours, with chronograph engaged 70 hours.
33 jewels.
36 polished inward angles
Hand engraving.
Stainless steel case, 42.5mm diameter, 12.90mm thick.
Sapphire crystals, front and back.
Water resistant up to 30 meters.
PVD black dial, rhodium plated chronograph counter, decorative plates in mirror polished steel, hand engraved.
Alligator strap, hand sewn.
Buckle: pin buckle or folding.

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