VACHERON CONSTANTIN – LES CABINOTIERS Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première Minute repeater Astronomical Perpetual Calendar Chronograph - Unique Piece 2025
A world record
A masterpiece of innovation and miniaturisation
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he most complicated wristwatch ever made, featuring 41 complications.
A new manufacture movement, Calibre 3655 – a masterpiece of innovation and miniaturisation, incorporating five rare astronomical functions including a world premiere.
A minute repeater with Westminster chime – 7 patent applications filed.
A feat of design in the elegant and legible integration and display of functions.
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In 1755, Jean-Marc Vacheron signed his first apprenticeship contract, which defined the starting point of a quest for excellence and a human adventure. To embody 270 years of technical and aesthetic mastery, the Maison has developed the most complicated wristwatch in horological history, answering its motto of "Do better if possible, and that is always possible". With 41 complications, this single-piece edition, which is the subject of 13 patent applications, is the result of eight years of research and development. A masterpiece of innovation, it incorporates five astronomical functions never previously combined in watchmaking.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO With 1521 components, the new manufacture Calibre 3655 is housed in a white gold case with a 45mm diameter and a height of just 14.99mm, a true feat of miniaturisation. Complementing the technical achievement of this watch, its refined aesthetic is designed to optimise the legibility of its many functions.
41 COMPLICATIONS, A TECHNICAL ACHIEVEMENT
Grand Complication watches have been part of Vacheron Constantin's universe since its earliest days. Throughout the Maison’s 270-year history, this technical mastery has been powerfully expressed in the field of time measurement, musical, chronographic and astronomical indications, as well as in the art of combining them.
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Since developing its first watch with a date calendar complication display at the end of the 18th century,
Vacheron Constantin has continually pushed the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, particularly in the field of astronomical complications – as illustrated by the pocket watch with 13 complications created in
1929 for
King Fouad I of Egypt. More recently,
Les Cabinotiers pieces such as the
Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 (
2017),
Astronomical Striking Grand Complication – Ode to Music (
2020) and
Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria (
2021), and The
Berkley Grand Complication (
2024) are distinguished not only by their aesthetics originality but also by rare combinations of astronomical complications.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO The double-sided
Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première watch is part of this long tradition of timepieces dedicated to the particularities of the solar system and the fascination that they exert. With its
1521 components,
41 complications and 13 patent applications, it is an inventive creation that transcends boundaries, in terms not only of complications and innovation, but also of
miniaturisation.
To embrace the different concepts
underlying the measurement of time, Calibre 3655 was designed so that it
can display civil, solar and sidereal time simultaneously, with a gear
train specific to each of them.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Civil time –
The first gear train is dedicated to the 24-hour day of civil time – the
legal time used throughout the world, which is based on International
Atomic Time. This is indicated on the front dial of the watch by the
central hour and minute hands, complemented by the display of world time
and a second time zone.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Sidereal time
– The second gear train is dedicated to sidereal time, which is
displayed on the reverse side of the watch; minutes are shown on the
periphery of the fixed sapphire crystal caseback while hours are
displayed on a rotating disc set beneath it. With a duration of 23
hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds, one sidereal day is the time it takes
for Earth to complete a full 360° rotation when taking a fixed star in
the celestial vault as a reference point. Because Earth rotates on its
axis while also revolving around the sun, it takes about four minutes
less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to
the given star.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Solar time –
The third gear train – known as the tropical gear – is devoted to
displaying the peculiarities of solar (or tropical) time. Because
Earth's path around the Sun is elliptical, not circular, and since
Earth's axis is inclined at 23,4° to the ecliptic (the plane of its
orbit), the time taken for the Sun to pass its zenith varies throughout
the year. This difference between the solar day (true) and the civil day
(average) of 24 hours, varies from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the
time of year and coincides only four times in twelve months (the
equinoxes and solstices). This differential, called the equation of
time, is displayed on the counter at 6 o'clock on the front dial of the
watch.
INNOVATIONS AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS
Work
on the architecture of Calibre 3655, which unites all the astronomical
functions on a dedicated mechanical module barely 2.8mm thick, prompted
the Maison to do further research into the display of new astronomical
functions.
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- Five rare astronomical complications
Les Cabinotiers Solaria offers five
innovative astronomical complications in an unprecedented combination,
including a world premiere:
- The position of the Sun
- The height of the Sun
- The culmination of the Sun
- The declination of the Sun
- Temporal tracking of celestial objects – world premiere
Four of these complications are
related to the apparent path of the Sun and are displayed on the front
of the watch – one on the periphery and three on the counter at 6
o’clock. The fifth one is displayed on the reverse side of the watch.
Position of the Sun
– Located on the periphery of the dial, this indication tracks the
position of the sun in the sky when the watch is correctly oriented
according to the cardinal points. Shown as a small yellow circle, it is
screen-printed on a rotating sapphire disc that also displays sunrise
and sunset times, and the length of the day.
Height of the Sun
– The second complication displays the height of the sun above the
horizon, a measurement expressed in degrees of angle that oscillate
between 20° and 68° and indicated by a hand on the same counter as the
equation of time at 6 o'clock.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Culmination of the Sun
– A third complication, displayed on the same counter, the culmination
of the Sun refers to the time when the Sun reaches the highest point of
its trajectory in the sky. Often confused with the zenith (point
vertical to the observer's horizon), culmination depends on the
observer's longitude. At this precise moment, we speak of solar noon,
halfway between dawn and dusk.
Declination of the Sun
– This ingenious indication corresponds to the angle formed between
Earth's equatorial plane and an imaginary line connecting the Sun to
Earth. This declination of the Sun varies according to the seasons. In
the Northern Hemisphere, it gradually increases from -23.5° at the
winter solstice to +23.5° at the summer solstice, a value corresponding
to the tilt of Earth. Measuring zero at the equinoxes, this solar
declination is displayed by a hand vis-à-vis a three-dimensional gold
representation of the Sun that is integrated into the counter at 6
o'clock.
Constellations and seasons
– The counter at 6 o’clock, dedicated to the particularities of the
Sun's path, is also equipped with a rotating disc displaying the 13
astronomical constellations of the zodiac as well as the seasons,
solstices and equinoxes.
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TEMPORAL TRACKING OF CELESTIAL OBJECTS, A WORLD PREMIERE
In
addition to the complications related to the course of the Sun, the
fifth complication integrated into Les Cabinotiers Solaria watch is
linked to the split-seconds chronograph. This new complication – a world
first – combines a split-seconds chronograph with a representation of
the celestial vault and makes it possible to calculate the time it takes
for a constellation or a given star to appear in the middle of the
observer’s field of vision.
The technical development of the
chronograph mechanism is the subject of a patent application about the
pivoting of the split seconds and chronographs tubes that reduces the
impact of stopping the split-seconds on the amplitude of the balance
wheel while reducing any vibration.
The chronograph readings are
displayed on the back of the watch, with a 60-minute counter located at
12 o'clock and a peripheral graduation of seconds. The two split-seconds
chronograph hands are anchored at the centre of the dial on which is
represented the celestial vault.
On a small rotating disc at the
centre of the dial, mounted on the same axis as the chronograph hands, a
green triangle indicates the time needed until a selected star will be
seen in the viewer’s field of vision. At this moment, on the celestial
vault, the selected star will position itself in front of the green
index that serves as a reference point – marked on the ellipse shaded in
dark grey on the sapphire crystal disc that displays the movements of
the celestial vault.
This sapphire case back is marked
with a white circle representing the celestial equator (projection of
the equator onto the celestial sphere) and a yellow circle for the
ecliptic (plane of Earth's orbit). The movement of the constellations is
displayed in the observer’s field of vision in real time.
To operate the complication, the
user visually selects a given star on the celestial chart, then
activates the chronograph. When the chronograph hand reaches the green
reference marker, stop the first hand but let the second hand continue
until it reaches the current position of the chosen star, then stop the
hand. The time (in hours) that must elapse until the user will see the
chosen star in the sky is indicated by the green triangle on the small
counter in the centre of the dial. The peripheral month display marked
on the back crystal enables the wearer to adjust the celestial vault to
reflect the Earth's position in its orbit around the Sun.
- Perpetual calendar, Moon phases and tide measurement
The astronomical functions are
complemented by a Gregorian perpetual calendar. In a counter on the
front dial at 12 o’clock, it displays all the indications – with day,
month and leap years shown by a small indicator to the right of the
counter. These are supplemented by digital dating according to the ISO
8601 standard, including the four-digit year shown within the counter,
the week (1 to 52) on the periphery of the counter indicated by a
green-tipped hand, and the day (1 to 7) in a small aperture to the left
of the counter.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Displayed on the counter at 9
o'clock, the astronomical Moon phase, including the age of the Moon, is
driven by a dedicated gear train, with an accuracy maintained for 122
years, without correction. Because all the functions of this timepiece
are pushed to their most accomplished interpretation, the lunar cycle is
complemented by a mareoscope with details of spring tides and neap
tides – two astronomical occurrences that each occur twice a month,
reinforcing or diminishing the tidal amplitude (the elevation of tidal
high water above mean sea level).
- Hours and Minutes, GMT and world time indication
The time indications also reflect
Vacheron Constantin’s quest for perfection. In addition to the central
hands indicating hours and minutes, a counter at 3 o’clock displays a
second 24-hour time zone with day/night indication. And, in line with
the technicality of Calibre 3655, this mechanism is supplemented by a
world time indication (according to standard wintertime – GMT zero)
through a rotating disc bearing the names of the cities representing the
24 time zones.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Adjustment in increments of one
hour or one city is done by a single corrector set in the case side. To
save space within the mechanism, the adjustment is achieved not via a
clutch, as is usual, but by a differential. This technical development
is one of the 13 patent applications filed for Calibre 3655.
AN INNOVATIVE CHIMING MECHANISM
Accounting
for 7 of the 13 patent applications filed, the Westminster minute
repeater mechanism is integrated into the base movement along with the
chronograph mechanism and tourbillon regulator. One of the first
challenges was to accommodate a chiming mechanism without compromising
the thinness of the calibre – especially as the choice fell on a
Westminster carillon, the most sophisticated of the musical sequences,
involving four gongs and four hammers.
The second
challenge was to ensure the sound quality of the repeater’s chimes.
Because a multiplicity of movement components absorbs some of the sound
vibrations, the more "cluttered" a box is, the less resonant the sound
will be.
The result of
extensive research, the gongs are attached to the middle case and have
been shaped with a rectangular section. This increases rigidity on the
horizontal plane and thus amplifies the sound. As well as optimising
resonance, this solution prevents the gongs from colliding when in
operation while the watch is being worn.
However, this
first solution had to be supplemented by a parallel development of the
hammers. The aim was to maximise the transmission of kinetic energy at
the time of strike, while minimising the rebound of the hammers. The
solution was to design hammers with a new, particularly compact shape
and increased mass. To increase the moment of inertia, the four hammers
have been forged in steel with the addition of 18K gold on three of
them. Also, to optimise the use of space, they are positioned in pairs
on either side of the base plate.
Thanks to this
new architecture and the developments made to the striking mechanism,
which are the subject of seven patent applications, the musicality of
this minute repeater is harmonious and richly sonorous. One of the
patent applications is for a new selection method that allows the wearer
to choose between an on-demand repeater of the hours only or the
traditional hours, quarters and minutes.
- Miniaturisation, innovative design and sophistication of the dials
The imperative of miniaturisation
has driven the entire conception, development and construction of the
calibre, which is designed in two connected sections. The base movement
combines the time, chronograph and chiming functions, while an
additional mechanism combines all the astronomical indications.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Given the number of complications integrated into Calibre 3655, the connection of the two was a challenge. To resolve this, Vacheron Constantin developed an ingenious “plug and play” mounting system featuring
a fast and precise connection mechanism that guarantees perfect
indexing. This system, comprised of two elements manufactured with
precision, enables the astronomical displays to be driven by simply
juxtaposing and attaching the additional module. Two sapphire
components, perfectly fitted together, facilitate optimal energy
transmission and allow for repeated connection and disconnection without
wear, eliminating the need for additional parts.
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This solution makes it possible –
during a watch service, for example – to disassemble the entire
additional mechanism, including the dial and hands, in order to access
the base movement. This ingenious "plug and play" fastening system is
the subject of one of the 13 patent applications filed for the Solaria
Ultra Grand Complication watch.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO The construction of the dial is as
intricate as the movement. It comprises a main plate with four counters,
under which two metal discs are inserted – one bearing the cities at 3
o'clock and the astronomical signs at 6 o'clock – as well as three
sapphire discs, which require machining capabilities of the utmost
precision. The peripheral disc displaying sunrise and sunset times and
the one indicating the sun's position measure only 0.18mm. A true feat
of manufacturing and assembly. Finally, a third sapphire disc, also 0.18
mm thick, is positioned at 9 o'clock to precisely indicate Moon phases,
including spring and neap tide occurrences. This disc is mounted above a
metal disc that displays the tide cycle.
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Another patented innovation
designed to reduce the movement's overall dimensions is that the sunrise
and sunset, equation of time, height of the Sun as well as culmination
and declination of the Sun functions are managed by a two-sided monobloc
multi-cam wheel system, which has reduced the height of the mechanism
and increased its precision.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO On the reverse side of the watch,
the fixed sapphire crystal and the rotating disc are also very thin. The
fixed disc – which in fact is the transparent caseback and is marked
with the months and constellations – is just 0.6 mm thick at its edge,
and the rotating disc, which display the celestial vault and the
sidereal time, is barely 0.3 mm thick. The two split-seconds chronograph hands, anchored at the centre of the dial, are made of aluminium to minimise weight.
Such fine components are not only
extremely demanding in terms of manufacturing but also pose a tremendous
challenge during the assembly of the movement.
PROWESS IN MINIATURISATION
One
of the major difficulties was to house the Calibre 3655 with its 1,521
components in a reasonably sized case that would be comfortable on the
wrist. This was a real challenge that required not only extreme
miniaturisation but also new solutions in terms of construction. The
result is rare feat of watchmaking, with the Maison succeeding in
housing a calibre with 41 complications in a case measuring 45mm in
diameter with a height of only 14.99mm.
A further
challenge of miniaturisation was to display such a large number of
functions in a very limited space, and to incorporate into the watch
case the multiple pushers and levers required to activate them.
The watchmaker
who designed the movement was also responsible for the development of
the watch's case, along with a designer from the Maison. Generally, the
exterior of a watch, including the case and dial, is the exclusive
responsibility of the designer, whose task it is to ensure the
legibility of the functions, the harmony of the shapes and the balance
of the proportions. However, given the nature of this project, it was
essential to entrust the technical development of the case to the person
in charge of the movement. The result is an elegant case in polished
18K white gold, incorporating eight correctors, two push buttons, two
selectors and an elegant slider for the minute repeater.
AESTHETIC CHALLENGES
The
technicity of Les Cabinotiers Solaria watch required particular care
not only in the finishing of the 1521 components – all of which is done
by hand – but also in the display of the 41 complications. Given the
concentration of complications, a major challenge was the legibility:
four counters on the front, two of which display up to five
complications each, and a back that combines a sky map and chronograph
functions.
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On the front dial of the watch, an
elegant play of contrasts enhances legibility. The striking absence of
traditional ornamentation creates a distinctly modern aesthetic. White
alternates with black, and different shades of grey are created by a
variety of finishes – sunburst, sandblasted and circular satin-polished –
with white gold indexes highlighted by rhodium plating and satin
finishing.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO On the counter at 6 o'clock devoted
to the solar functions, a 5mm diameter Earth dome in rhodium-plated 18K
gold is highlighted by the contrast between highly polished continents
with sandblasted oceans. The declination of the sun is highlighted by a
polished 18K yellow gold half-sphere.
Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO On the reverse side of the watch,
legibility is ensured despite the restrained colour palette. The
sapphire crystal caseback displays the constellations, the equatorial
ellipse (grey circle), the ecliptic ellipse (yellow circle), the months,
and 60-second graduations. The rotating disc displaying the celestial
vault and the 24-hour scale is achieved through metallization in two
shades of grey. The two split-seconds chronograph hands, which traverse
the star chart, are lacquered in green and red to maximise contrast,
these colours are echoed in the 72-hour power reserve indication, which
is set on the periphery of the movement to save space. The resulting
display is reminiscent of a gauge on a car dashboard.
-
- Bevelling
- Brouillage
- Circling
- Graining
- Mirror polishing
- Matt polishing
- Sandblasting
- Satin polishing
- Sunray brushing
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Among
the details, the minute repeater hammers are mirror polished; the
bridges are all angled and polished as well as chamfered with a matte,
satin-brushed or “brouillage”
finish; the jewel sinks are chamfered and the wheels circled; The main
plate is circular grained, and the barrel ratchet is sun rayed. This
alternation of finishes transforms the highly technical character of
Calibre 3655 into a kinetic artwork.
=====================
TECHNICAL DATA
Collection: LES CABINOTIERS
Model: LES CABINOTIERS Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première
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Reference 9600C/000G-231C
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Movement Calibre 3655 Developed and manufactured by
Vacheron Constantin Mechanical manual-winding
36 mm diameter,
10.96 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately
72 hours
3 Hz (21’600 vibrations/hour)
1521 components
204 jewels
Indications
- Time functions (6)
- Gregorian Perpetual calendar (8)
- Lunar indications (3)
- Astronomical indications (14)
- Chiming functions (5)
- Split-seconds chronograph with 2 column-wheels (4)
- Additional features (1)
Case
18K white gold
45 mm diameter, 14.99 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal case back with metallisation for the constellations
Dial
Front:
metal black-coloured sunray satin-finished with circular satin-finished
edge; 18K white gold hour-markers; sandblasted counters
Earth applique: polished and sandblasted rhodium-finished 18K 3N yellow gold
Sun sphere:18K 3N yellow gold
Hour and minute hands: 18K white gold, sandblasted
Back: grey-tinted sapphire crystal with celestial vault made by metallisation
Chronograph and split-seconds chronograph hands: lacquered aluminium alloy
Strap
Black technical calfskin leather strap with a textured effect and calfskin leather inner shell, hand-stitched, folded edges
Buckle
18K white gold folding buckle
Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model
Delivered with a corrector pen
Engravings
‘Pièce unique’, ‘Les Cabinotiers’ and ‘AC’ hallmark on the back bezel of the timepiece, 270th anniversary emblem on the dial
Single-piece edition
LIST OF COMPLICATIONS
Time measurement (6)
Day and night indication for reference city
Second time zone hours and minutes (on 24-hour display)
World time indication for 24 cities
Second time zone day and night indication
3Hz tourbillon with silicon balance wheel (with high Q factor)
Civil time display module coupled to the base movement
Gregorian Perpetual Calendar (8)
Perpetual calendar
Days of the week
Date
Months
Year indication
Leap-year indication
Indication for the number of the week within the year (ISO 8601 calendar)
Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar)
Lunar indications (3)
Astronomical Moon phases and age of the Moon
Tide level indicator
Spring and neap tides indication
Astronomical indications (14)
Indication of seasons, equinoxes & solstices
Position of the Sun
Sunrise time (according to the city of reference)
Sunset time (according to the city of reference)
Duration of the day (according to the city of reference)
Equation of time on tropical (solar) gear
Culmination time of the Sun (according to the city of reference)
Height of the Sun above the horizon (according to the city of reference)
Declination of the Sun, Three-dimensional Earth showing the latitude of the Sun in the Northern/Southern hemisphere
Sidereal hours
Sidereal minutes
Astronomical zodiac signs
Sky chart (according to the city of reference)
Temporal tracking of celestial objects
Chiming complications (5)
Minute repeater
Westminster carillon chime (4 hammers & 4 gongs)
Choice of hour-only or full chime
Crown locking system during the chiming
Double-stop hammer system to limit rebound and optimise transmission of the hammers' kinetic energy
Split-seconds Chronograph (4)
Chronograph (1 column wheel)
60-minute counter
Split-seconds chronograph (1 column wheel)
Isolator system for the split-seconds chronograph
Additional feature (1)
Power-reserve indication (outer disc at 190°)
LIST OF PATENT APPLICATIONS
Time indications – 2 patent applications
"Plug and play" system: ingenious system for fixing the astronomical module
Universal time: ultra-compact system allowing local time to be dissociated from home time without a spring but thanks to a differential
Astronomical indications – 3 patent applications
Sunrise and sunset times, equation of time, height of the Sun as well as culmination and declination of the Sun: system by multi-cam monobloc wheel to reduce the height of the mechanism and increase its precision
Celestial vault: system for displaying the movement of the constellations in real time by means of two sapphire crystals
Identification of celestial objects: system to indicate the number of hours it takes for a selected star to enter the user's optimal field of vision
Chronograph – 1 patent application
Split-seconds chronograph: split-seconds insulator system offering better isochronism and reduction of vibration
Minute repeater – 7 patent applications
Minute repeater architecture: developments to optimise the hammer size and maximise the energy transmitted to the hammers and then to the gongs for a better sound
Mode selector: system for selecting the striking mode on demand of the repeater, choosing between hours only or engaging the entire striking mechanism with hours, quarters and minutes
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Press Release - 2025
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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