Showing posts with label Young Talent. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Young Talent. Show all posts

Thursday, April 6, 2023

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition Award 2023

F.P.JourneYoung Talent Competition Award 2023
 
  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   
Young Talent Competition Awarding to the winner 2023 at the F.P.Journe Manufacture in Geneva: Alexandre Hazemann, France, for his watch AH.02 Signature.

Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmakers in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organises the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

 Michael Tay, Alexandre Hazemann and François-Paul Journe.

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realisation, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The 2023 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2023 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

   Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

A.Hazemann – AH.02 Signature
 
Age 23 - Pontarlier - France
Graduated from Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, France - July 2022

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AH.02 Signature and Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto

Introduction

For the 7th year of watchmaking studies at the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, we are asked to create a school watch. The subject imposed this year was to create a watch with a striking mechanism at the passage of the hours with a display of the hour in instantaneous jump. In addition to the technical constraints, our creative approach had to answer a philosophical question: "What do we need to be happy?”

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So it was natural that I turned to the theme of passion. I built the general design of the project on different axes: balance, lightness, pure watchmaking art. AH.02 Signature is inspired by a deep and sincere reflection that gave birth to a rich and sourced creative thought.

History

This project was realised in collaboration with my long-time friend Victor Monnin. Over the years of studying together, we have come to understand the importance of teamwork. We share a philosophy, a "mindset" similar to that of two brothers. 

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  Victor Monnin
 
Moreover, our skills complemented each other perfectly. Victor is more involved in project management and organisation, as well as in the machining of components. As for me, I have more facility for the watchmaking construction, the watchmaking calculations which ensue from it as well as the prototyping.

Realisation of the project

This adventure took place from October 4, 2021 to June 10, 2022. Chronologically, we started by making sketches including the design of the watches from October to November. We then moved on to computer design and watchmaking calculations from December to January. Then, we manufactured all the components during 2 months, from February to the end of March

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
  
I should specify that we made all the parts except for the glass, the bracelet and the basic movement. The components were manufactured with traditional machines (milling machines, pointing machines...) but also with CNC. The movement LJP6900 was delivered in trays, with only the various pointings and millings carried out. We then had to finish cutting the bridges and the plate.

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The following month was reserved for prototyping and reliability. This stage was for me the most complex. The goal was to find and solve the problems one by one in order to obtain a functional watch, capable of keeping time with impeccable precision. We then made the entire stainless steel case on a traditional machine to accommodate the double complication movement.

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May was reserved for the finishing. I made the satin finishing of the bridge and of the faces with a cabron, the sandblasting of the plate... Finally, I had to find the suppliers to make the electroplating (Ruthenium anthracite). 

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Alexandre Hazemann

To end, I made the final assembly to have the watch finished and functional for the beginning of June. It took us almost 8 months and more than 1,200 hours of work to complete our project in its entirety. The pace was very fast (about 15 hours per day) without any break.

How it works

A striking hour function differs significantly from a quarter repeater. Moreover, considering the synchronisation of the mechanisms, it is necessary to explain the principle of the instantaneous jumping hour.

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A striking hour emits one sound per hour. We have chosen to link the jump of the hammer to the jump of the hour. To do this, we used a lever that performs 3 actions for the same cycle. The first action is to constantly stay in contact with the hour cam in the center of the movement. 

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Then, for the jump of the hours, a finger fixed on the lever drives the star wheel when the lever falls on the cam. Finally, for the third action, the lever arms the hammer in its ascending arc and then releases it when the cam jumps to let it strike with all its inertia against the gong.

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We have also developed a unidirectional time setting system which allows the rotation of the cam in one direction only, which makes it impossible to break it. A retractable pinion is installed between the timer and the first time setting gear. In the event that the user corrects the time in the wrong direction, the pinion will retract and rotate freely.
Conclusion
 
This creation meant a lot to us and we wanted to end our 7 years of study in the most beautiful way. Through this adventure, we wanted to transform this school project into a professional project and thus make it a springboard for our career. 

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
 
With my friend Victor Monnin, we decided that one day, we will create our independent workshop to produce these two striking watches. We know that the road is long and tortuous and that everything remains to be done. 

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
 
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The mission of The Hour Glass is to advance watch culture. They are known for their thoughtfully curated selection of brands, their passion in designing uniquely immersive retail experiences and their team of highly knowledgeable watch specialists. The Hour Glass strives to become the primary port of call for all enthusiasts and watch collectors alike. Everyday across their combined network of over 50 boutiques in the Asia Pacific region, they are poised to further the awareness and appreciation of watches and ready to guide their clients in their hunt for a superlative timepiece
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collaboration / Partnerships

Model: AH.02 Signature

Movement
Caliber: LJP6900 re-worked / Automatic movement
14.8 lines - 34 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 V/h (4 Hz)
Unidirectional time setting
Fully manufactured complications
Striking hour - Instantaneous jumping hour
Power reserve: 50 hours
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter: 42 mm / Height: 12.8 mm
Weight: 120 g
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Custom made sapphire crystal - Swiss made  
Dial
Skeleton  
Strap
Bespoke strap made in France: Blue alligator

 

 --------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2023
----------------------------------------------

www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com 

Thursday, November 17, 2022

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition 2022

F.P.JourneYoung Talent Competition Award 2022
 
Awarding to the winner 
at the F.P.Journe Manufacture November 11, 2022
Supporting the most talented young watchmakers in the world.

Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmaking apprentices in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organizes the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realization, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece or an horological construction. The 2022 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2022 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

Maciej Miśnik

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  • Marine design pocket watch with tourbillon and pivoted detent escapement
  • Age 30 - Warsaw - Poland
  • Self-taught - Journeyman's certificate in watchmaking - Warsaw, June 2018
  • Graduate in physics - Gdańsk University of Technology - September 2021

 Case, hands and dial

Marine chronometers inspired the presented pocket watch. For this reason, the case was made of brass, however, for contrast, the pendant and the bow were made of silver. Most parts were made in my own workshop without using CNC machines. Basic machines such as lathes, milling machines and hand tools were used to make the watch. 

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For readability, steel hands were thermally oxidized to blue. In my opinion, blued hands harmonize with black indexes on the silver dial. For added complexity, the hour hand jumps once per hour rather than smoothly, as is the case with most watches.

Technical characteristics of the movement

As in marine deck chronometers, a pivoted detent escapement was used. Oscillation frequency of the balance wheel is 2 Hz. It is well known that detent escapement has good friction properties but it is not shock resistant. Due to this, I decided to make a pocket watch instead of a wristwatch. Additionally, the watch was equipped with a tourbillon thereby reducing the problem of poising the balance. 

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Two barrels are used to ensure sufficient torque. A major problem with watches using a tourbillon is the inertia of the cage. For this reason, the tourbillon cage components are very thin and delicate to reduce the inertia. The cage is very heavy, weighing 2 grams, but the problem of inertia was reduced. In the escape wheel, the pinion and the wheel are separated and connected via a bronze hairspring. There is a sleeve with two rubies in the wheel, which runs on the steel axle of the pinion. The hairspring is arranged in such a way that it holds the wheel on the pinion (the wheel does not fall out). 

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As soon as the cage is stationary, the escapement wheel is released. The escapement wheel moves and the cage begins to rotate. When the escapement wheel stops on the ruby, the cage continues to move and winds up the hairspring, losing its kinetic energy, and then slightly backs up. The backing up of the cage results from its high inertia and the reaction force of the hairspring. In most tourbillon watches, the cage stops with the escapement wheel, causing a temporary high force on the escapement elements and undesirable vibrations. In the case of the presented solution, a hairspring absorbs the vibrations, similar to solutions proposed for example by Derek Pratt, Karol Roman etc. The balance wheel is equipped with a Breguet-overcoil spring. There is no regulator on the hairspring due to chronometric properties. Two screws on the balance wheel maintain regulation of the oscillation period. Other screws are used to poise the balance wheel. The tourbillon cage is also poised, by a silver counterweight. Silver was used due to its high density.

 Manufacturing of the components

The presented watch is made of raw metals. No elements have been electro painted or plated. Only the hands and three screws were thermally oxidized to blue. Sulphide was grown on silver elements, this is what gives this darker look to the dial and to the small plate with the signature. 

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As it was written, I made most of the parts myself. Every part was finished by hand. In my workshop were not made: the watch chain, glass, 18 ruby bearings, balance hairspring, 2 mainsprings and 28 of 40 screws. I did not engrave the signature; it was made by a professional engraver.

Measurement

Diameter: without hinge and lock, 4.9 cm / with hinge and lock, 5.2 cm
Height: 7.1 cm Depth: without screws, 1.55 cm / with screws, 1.67 cm
Weight: with key and chain, 112.2 g / without key and chain, 100.2 g

Maciej Misnik
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  • Age 30 - Warsaw - Poland
  • Self-taught - Journeyman’s certificate in watchmaking - Warsaw, June 2018
  • Graduate in physics - Gdarisk University of Technology - September 2021

About you:

When did your passion for watchmaking begin?

I wasn’t quite 2 years old when I destroyed my first Cuckoo clock. Eversince then, clocks, watches and tools have never left me.

Where did you learn about watchmaking?

Mainly, I’m self-taught, but my grandfather, and his father and grandfather, were also watchmakers. From time to time, I went to see watchmakers in my hometown, and would ask them questions.

What type of watchmaking exam did you take, and where?

On June 25, 2018, I passed my journeyman exam in Masovian Chamber of Crafts and Entrepreneurship in Warsaw.

What was your first watchmaking achievement? (Or first watch)

I built my first watch in September 2019. It’s a simple chronograph wristwatch based on parts from a pocket watch.

About the watch:

Why did you choose these complications?

My father is a seaman. Ever since my childhood, I have liked shining brass marine devices, especially clocks. I wanted to have a small marine chronometer watch that I could put into my pocket, so I decided to make a pocket watch with a tourbillon and detent escapement. For me, precision poising the balance wheel is a challenge, so I used a tourbillon to solve the problem.

How long did it take to create this watch?

About 8 months, 1,000 hours of work in total.

What was your favourite part of making this watch?

It’s hard to say. I think one of my favourite parts of making a watch is its first assembly and first run.

What are the challenges of working on basic machines?

In my opinion, the biggest challenges are self-control and self-discipline. In just a few seconds you can destroy 3 days of work. You have to be very careful and 100% focused on all elements.

Why didn’t you use a CNC machine?

The answer is very easy. I did not use a CNC machine for 2 reasons: first, I think that if we say a watch is “hand made”, it has to be hand made, not made on a CNC machine and hand finished. Otherwise, it would be only hand-finished, and manufactured on a machine. I know many factories do this, but I can’t change that. I would like to point out that I’m not an enemy of mechanisation of production. It’s OK, but we have to be honest. The second reason is CNC machines are extremely accurate and reproducible, so, in my opinion of course, a watch cannot be unique. It can be beautiful, precise, amazing, but not unique. Besides, CNC machines are expensive, and I am not the owner of a large factory.

About the future:

What do you intend to do with this prize?

The diploma will be hung above my workbench. Maybe it’s selfish, but I would like to buy some machines and tools for my workshop, for example a professional Swiss-made jig-borer, a pivot polisher, a bigger precision watchmaker lathe, etc.

What is your aspiration for the next five years?

It’s a good question. I would like to make a pocket watch with a 1-second constant force mechanism. It’s my current project. In the near future, I would like to launch my own manufacture, but I’m not sure, that will be possible. One thing IS for sure - I will make watches. Wristwatches, I hope.

 --------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2022
----------------------------------------------

www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com 

Wednesday, July 7, 2021

Anton Suhanov – RACER Jumping Hour GMT Edition

Anton SuhanovRACER Jumping Hour GMT Edition 2021

 Anton Suhanov, Russian independent watchmaker and creator, presents Racer Jumping Hour GMT, his first wristwatch.

In 2016, Anton Suhanov broke into the world of fine watchmaking when he completed his ambitious project – the Black Clock tourbillon table clock. He embedded a clockwork with an impressively large triple-axis tourbillon, totally designed and produced by him. The target was set very high – nothing like this clock had come out of the hands of a Russian watchmaker before. Actually, Anton completed foundation timepiece of his independent watchmaker’s venture, showing knowledge of the unwritten canons of haute horlogerie and the ability to apply it in the work process keeping in mind not only watch mechanics but also the design and finishing.

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The tourbillon should be considered as the king of complications – this is an obligatory rule of working with it, which is not always adhered to in the industry. For the Black Clock, Anton Suhanov created the triple-axis tourbillon which may be regarded as the most complex in design and execution, having made for it a harmonious and airy-elegant spatial structure of three nested tourbillon carriages. It looks like a response to the stunningly beautiful concept of the harmony of heavenly spheres -– Harmonia Mundi, dreamed of by the great philosophers of antiquity: Pythagoras, Plato, Aristotle

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International community of independent watchmakers highly estimated the triple axis tourbillon Black Clock, and it’s creator was declared in 2016 as a winner of Young Talent Competition, founded by Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants and supported by François-Paul Journe (F. P. Journe Invenit et Fecit).

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Anton Suhanov is sure, when you are building the three-axis tourbillons, watch mechanics itself accustoms you to see things from different angles. The idea of a wristwatch, as is often happens, came to him by chance. One day, driving his car to the workshop, Anton was thinking … of course, about a watch, and that time about a watch created on an automotive style. Now he recalls that the dominant point of view that this kind of watch is almost necessarily a chronograph made him speculate about it:

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

For a unique design, should be created a unique movement, Anton Suhanov is convinced of this. He decided to build a caliber with the indications based on the function of the retrograde indication of minutes. He invented the complex design. At the beginning of a new hour, the minute hand jumps from the 60-minute to the zero position, and this rapid movement, almost imperceptible to the eye, performs two actions: it switches the retrograde hour hand forward one hour, and then the hand remains motionless for an hour.  And at the same moment the 24-hour digital second timezone indicator of Racer Jumping Hour GMT, installed in the window at 12 o'clock position, goes one hour ahead.

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In the center of the dial, there is an unusual second’s indicator on a dynamic 20-second arc-shaped scale – this is one of the consequences of the master’s principle of leisurely perception of time, therefore, the second’s indication is set on the dial center, but does not dominate. At the bottom of the dial, there is a date window, a must for a watch that claims to be of everyday use.

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“This method of indication expresses the essence and character of the perception of how time passes,” Anton Suhanov explains his choice of the types of indicators used by him in the Racer Jumping Hour GMT watch. “You will look at some watches once an hour or a couple of times a day, at others you want to look constantly, as if afraid to miss something important, some unique moment. The combination of dynamics and leisurely perception of time is my recipe! On my watch, time feels differently, at some point you seem to be in a race and appreciate every second, and at another moment, literally in a couple of seconds, you ride confidently, slowly counting miles, everything is under control, and the world passes in the windows of your car...”

Movement

For a unique design, should be created a unique movement, Anton Suhanov is convinced of this. He decided to build a caliber with the indications based on the function of the retrograde indication of minutes. He invented the complex design.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

At the beginning of a new hour, the minute hand jumps from the 60-minute to the zero position, and this rapid movement, almost imperceptible to the eye, performs two actions: it switches the retrograde hour hand forward one hour, and then the hand remains motionless for an hour. And at the same moment the 24-hour digital second timezone indicator of Racer Jumping Hour GMT, installed in the window at 12 o'clock position, goes one hour ahead.

Finishing

In producing the parts of the module, the master was guided by the traditions of fine watchmaking, although the indication module remains hidden under an opaque dial – this choice is also recognized as one of the fundamentally important traditions of watchmaking.

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The master treats every detail of the module with the utmost care, and, sparing no time on this work, he uses traditional techniques, including manual polishing of chamfers, engraving, polishing of recesses for screws, pins, and stones, spherical polishing of the shafts of the wheels and pins, perlage, fine straight, and circular grinding, sand-blasting, rhodium plating. The dial is finished using the anodizing, ruthenium coating, and guilloche.

CASE / DIAL

The dial of the Racer Jumping Hour GMT is unique, but so is the case. Its design is based on the principle of the regular Reuleaux polygon, this shape can be briefly described as a square with rounded sides. Anton Suhanov chose this form, believing that it best suits his idea of a dynamic, but the leisurely perception of time.

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This shape hints at the aerodynamics, streamlined lines found in high-speed cars. Double screws for fixing the bezel, visually duplicated by paired screws for the pads of the axes of the retrograde hands and plates with inscriptions and a scale of seconds, give the design an almost obligatory technical character for car-inspiration watches, even more, reinforced by the double knurling on the crown and the whimsical shape of the conical holder of the button for switching second timezone indicator.

Inspiration

The idea, as is often happens, came by chance. One day, driving his car to the workshop, Anton was thinking ... of course, about a watch, and that time about a watch created on an automotive style. Now he recalls that the dominant point of view that this kind of watch is almost necessarily a chronograph made him speculate about it:

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

“I thought it would be interesting to imagine a watch free from this stereotype. The chronograph appears when we think about a car as a racing car: to move faster, to be in time, to overtake ... Looking from another side, a car is a story about a man behind the wheel, about a world that opens as anew in front, ahead of the windshield, a story about the pleasure you get from driving when there is no need to rush. This is a story about a leisurely perception, when the car gives pleasure by itself, and not from numbers that the speedometer needle reaches.”


As a result of these reflections, Anton Suhanov at one moment got an idea for the design of a new watch Racer Jumping Hour GMT: a glance at the dashboard of the car, where on the left is a tachometer, on the right is a speedometer, between them there are some additional indicators and numbers ... Everything is going as it should, everything is functioning properly, and all systems instantly react at the right time, responding to pressing the gas pedal: the car must remain a car.

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And a watch must remain a watch – this is an unspoken agreement between the watchmaker and his clients, and therefore the master set himself the task of transforming such an attitude into a timekeeper, not only fascinating, entertaining, giving emotions, but also providing the information about the exact time.

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Starting from the desire to create a one-of-a-kind fusion of horological mechanics and emotions, Anton Suhanov step by step developed the structure of the dial with prevailing on it two retrograde hour and minute subdials. They are located on the left and right and slightly shifted down – exactly for one position on the (imaginary) hour scale of the dial, while the remaining central part of the dial is given away to other pointers. It is this design that gives a unique feeling of fleeting glance at the car dashboard – indeed, no one constantly looks at the meters while driving, this is unreasonable and dangerous! Watch has its advantage; nothing stops you from admiring the dial of a unique layout and high-class finish.

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This particular arrangement has historical prototypes, one of them is the dial of the famous pocket watch “Marie Antoinette”, life-long masterpiece of Abraham-Louis Breguet, with two retrograde subdials of date and equation of time. Racer Jumping Hour GMT shares with Breguet’s “Marie Antoinette” another common unobtrusive but intriguingly interesting technical feature … you will discover that a little bit later.

  ----------------------------------------------

Technical Specifications

Collection: RACER
 
Model:  RACER Jumping Hour GMT by Anton Suhanov


Movemen
    Calibre Su100.20, self-winding;
    Diameter 31.5 mm, 6.9 mm thick (with indication module)
    The base caliber ETA 2824-2, modified by Anton Suhanov,
    decorative full-disc oscillating weight (rotor)
    Frequency 28’800 semi-oscillations per hour;
    38-hour power reserve.
    Indication module: invented, developed and made by Anton Suhanov; 172 parts.
    Jewels: 43 (base calibre – 25 jewels; indication module – 18 Jewels). 

Functions

  •     triple retrograde indication invented by Anton Suhanov with retrograde subdials for hours (at 8 o’clock), minutes (at 4 o’clock) and seconds on 20-seconds scale at the centre, jumping hour hand,
  •     24 hours GMT jumping digital indication (at 12 o’clock) with synchronous switch of minutes, hours and GMT at the end of hour;
  •     date window at 6 o’clock.

Case
    Stainless steel,
    39 х 39 mm,
    thickness 12.5 mm;
    sapphire crystal;
    transparent sapphire caseback;
    30 m water-resistant.
Dial
    27 parts;
    the base, appliques and the bows of retrograde subdials – brass with ruthenium coating,
    guilloche,
    titanium retrograde subdials with blue anodization.
Strap
    high-quality black leather strap with red contrast stitching;
    stainless steel buckle made by Anton Suhanov and designed as a sportscar spoiler.

Limited edition of 20 pieces.

 

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www.facebook.com - Anton.suhanov
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www.Anton-Suhanov.com 

Monday, October 26, 2020

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition 2020

 F.P.JourneYoung Talent Competition 2020

 Supporting the most talented young watchmakers in the world
Norifumi Seki wins F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020

Norifumi Seki, a Graduate from Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry in Tokyo, has won the F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020 for his Spherical moon and drum calendar pocket watch. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 Norifumi Seki, the winner of F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020

---------------------------------

Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmaking apprentices in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight.

F.P.Journe organizes the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realization, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction. The 2020 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2020 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The Spherical moon and drum calendar pocket watch created by Norifumi Seki features a multiple complications. First one is the large spherical moon-phase display. Made entirely of titanium, the moon phase is 20 mm in diameter and set via a recessed pusher in the case band. A third of the sphere is blue heated, while the other two thirds are coated in gold.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Second complication is the vertical calendar display. Shown in two large windows, each containing two drums for the digits, the calendar is a simple one, with the month in the left window and date on the right; both can be set via the crown. Because the calendar display relies on drums, rather than discs, it is driven by gears perpendicular to the plane of the movement.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The movement is a mix of parts made from scratch as well as components from tried-and-test calibres. The base plate, bridges, and mechanisms for the calendar and moon phase are made by Norifumi Seki. Most parts of going train, from mainspring to fourth wheel, are taken from the Valjoux 7750, long a favourite base movement for complications because of its robustness and reliable energy delivery. However, the escapement is from the Peseux 7040 because, the young watchmaker wanted to run the movement at 3Hz instead of 4Hz to make the balance wheel larger.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

He then produced the four-armed balance wheel and paired it with a hairspring from the 7750. As a result, the balance bridge still retains the Etachron regulator index of the 7750. The movement is coated in 18K yellow gold, and finished with perlage and Côtes de Genève. Both the balance bridge and escape wheel cock are hand engraved.

Norifumi also produced all of the external components of the watch. Though it appears to be engine turned, the dial was actually engraved on a lathe due to non-availability of a rose engine. But the dial colour was achieved the traditional way, having been silver plated using diluted sulphuric acid. The hands were also made from scratch with a combination of heat-blued steel and golden brass.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: CLASSIQUE

Case
18K yellow golden brass
Width: 4.7 cm
Height:
2.3 cm
Length:
6.3 cm
Total weight: 140 grams
Crown and bow also in 18K yellow golden brass

Movement
Coated in 18K yellow gold, with perlage and Côtes de Genève decorations, balance bridge and escape wheel cock hand engraved

Dial
Engraved guilloche silver plated
Moon: 20 mm diameter in titanium partly golden
Hands: heated blued steel and golden brass.

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Press release - 2020
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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