Showing posts with label D. CANDAUX. Show all posts
Showing posts with label D. CANDAUX. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 28, 2018

D. CANDAUX – 1740 - Half Hunter Flying Tourbillon



















D. CANDAUX1740 - Half Hunter Flying Tourbillon Titanium 43 mm Edition

The reinterpretation of a classic

The new 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon by the independent watchmaker David Candaux for Baselworld 2018, rep-resents his contemporary reinterpretation of the classic half-hunter pocketwatch form as it was used in the stressful, active environments found on land and the seven seas.


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David’s particular inspiration were the forms found on an-tique captain’s watches, as well as many seafaring instruments such as compasses, wherein the viewing area, par-tially encased in metal, only allowed port-holes for viewing the required indications. In this manner, the half hunter form provided excellent protection of the dial glass, hands and movement from shocks under extreme conditions, anywhere they might be experienced.

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This new tourbillon creation by David Candaux taps into the historical period when horology was still perceived as a major science, and watchmaking fell under the realm of mathematics, philosophy and astronomy. This was an era when the quest for accurate timekeeping occupied the minds of the greatest inventors of European civilization. The 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon pays homage to these precision instruments of the past, timepieces that were in use by the explorers and master mariners of the 18th and 19th centuries. A novelty of the time, these highly accurate timepieces allowed ship’s captains to literally and physically carry the time of their departure harbor with them, and therefore calculate the longitude of their location at sea easily without requiring star-gazing, ephemerides, astro-nomical tables and several hours of navigational calculations.

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With this history at hand, the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon goes a step further, representing a more radical stylistic interpretation and technical advancement in comparison to the classic historical half- hunter concept; simultane-ously it represents a more futuristic development to the first models of the present 1740 collection.

NEW VISUAL IMPULSES

The first visual aspect one notices is the incredibly finely executed, complex decoration of the front face of the watchcase. It has been given a handmade, engine-turned guilloche pattern named Pointe du Risoux that deliber-ately recalls the patterns of the local Risoux fir tree forest that surrounds the Candaux atelier as seen from the air.

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Created as a contemporary approach to antique guilloche traditions, this pattern was not only meant to be visually inspirational; it was also deliberately designed to invite the user to sensually engage with its complex surface, add-ing another level of interaction between the timepiece and its owner. With a subtle and completely contemporary touch, this guilloche patterned front cover has been created in high palladium content 18K white gold. This precious metal is one of David’s favorites due to its subtle glow, and subdued, introverted elegance.


ASYMMETRICAL DISPLAY

Set into this magnificently adorned front cover of guilloche finished 18K white gold, the timekeeping indications and open view of the tourbillon have been placed under two tiny spherical, convex shaped portholes of specially machined sapphire glass, with the power reserve situated under a small, separate arch of sapphire glass at the top edge of the case front.

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The hours and minutes are read on a spherical, convex micro-dial under the rightmost sapphire dome with its two curving hands of hand finished and blued steel that precisely follow the curving dial’s exact form. The fully visible, The fully visible, twice-inclined flying tourbillon is situated under the sapphire dome on the left, providing running seconds via a blued index placed on the edge of the tourbillon cage.

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The mesmerizing beauty of the fully visible, twice-inclined flying tourbillon is situated under the sapphire dome on the left, providing running seconds via a blued index placed on the edge of the tourbillon cage. The mesmerizing beauty of the fully visible, patented and tilted tourbillon, echoes the display of the three dimensional hours and minutes window.

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It perfectly and harmo-niously balances the symmetry of the front, directly evoking the half hunter timepieces and marine compasses of previous centuries. In addition to these details, the entire front of the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon has been gently and almost imperceptibly inclined; standing slightly higher in the case at the 12 o’clock position and lower towards 6 o’clock.

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This unusually positioned bezel comfortably enhances reading the time, thus providing an optimized field of view for the user. Like the original 1740 model, the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon is also fitted at 6 o’clock with the unique retractable crown, for which David Candaux has received two patents.

MOVEMENT DETAILS

THE DAVID CANDAUX INCLINED BI-PLAN TOURBILLON

The 60-seconds flying tourbillon has been designed using a ceramic ball bearing inclined at 3 degrees from the hor-izontal. Within another construction inside the tourbillon’s grade-5 titanium cage, the balance has been placed in a position with another 30 degrees inclination, hence the name ‘bi-plan’ flying tourbillon.

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The result provides a definitive improvement on the standard, horizontally orientated tourbillon construction found in wristwatches today. The original tourbillon design, as used in pocketwatches, was conceived for dealing with the forces of gravity from mainly vertical positions in breast pockets.

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The situation today is totally different: as used in wristwatches, the tourbillon must adjust to the angles and movements of our contemporary lifestyle and daily life, as experienced on the human wrist and all of its tilted or angular positions - whilst sitting, reading, arms on the desk whilst behind the computer, or walking and running.

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David Candaux’s bi-plan flying tourbillon was created in such a way as to ensure a continual change in position of the cage and of the regulating organ in relation to these types of wrist positions people normally use in daily life, thus optimising its capacity to compensate the influence of gravity that could affect chronometric results. Following the best practices possible, the curve of the spiral has been given a Breguet overcoil ending in a Phillips terminal curve, thus optimizing the balance spring’s poise and functionality, with a resultant lower friction on the balance staff in every vertical position.

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The spiral extremity of the spring is maintained by a stud specially developed for this time-piece in order to guarantee reliable, long-term fixation. Details like these ensure the optimal long-term functioning of the movement and guarantee the quality of chronometric results.


MOVEMENT AND CASE IN GRADE-5 TITANIUM

With a view towards long-term perfection and durability, this metal is one of David’s favorites due to its superla-tive, high strength/hardness ratio, and its immutable characteristics combined with lightness. The extreme tensile strength of titanium makes all the traditional milling process as well as hand finishing operations for the case and movement parts such as polishing, satin-finishing, brushing and anglage much more time consuming, costly and dif-ficult to achieve.

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Furthermore, the milling operations to create these parts must be executed using special multi-axis machines fitted with fire extinguishers, since the titanium debris created during the cutting process can become flammable.

BALANCE

The aerodynamically designed balance wheel in beryllium copper (CuBe2), is fitted with variable inertia adjustment thanks to four 18K gold screws and a load screw also in beryllium copper, which can be adjusted by the watchmaker during assembly and timing control. The modification of the balance wheel’s inertia in this manner allows the watch-maker to speed up or slow down the balance wheel’s beat, and thus regulate the timepiece’s accurate running, as well as fixate its ideal parameters for long-term stability.

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The use of variable inertia adjustment for the balance eliminates the need for a moveable index to adjust the balance spring, which can, under certain conditions, alter its position after the watch receives a shock or impact.

INCLINED CALIBER CONSTRUCTION

The 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon caliber has been entirely designed in house by David Candaux - a rare occurrence in contemporary Swiss watchmaking. This innovative movement, protected by several patents, answers mechanically to the philosophy behind the 1740 collection with its asymmetrical approach to aesthetics and the art of chronome-try. No detail has been spared exacting scrutiny. For example, the technical imperatives linked to the secret, retract-able crown, mean that the entire gear train and bridges have been inclined at 3 degrees in relation to the horizontal in order to accommodate it.

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This reinterpretation of the standard principles of movement construction has impact on the position of the bridges in relation to each other. Due to this variation, each of these bridges is inclined at 3 degrees. Thus, the view of the movement’s interior surface is no longer uniformly horizontal, but shows a cascading effect. As a result, this innovative constructional feature has the added benefit of accentuating the finishing of all the individual movement parts, amplifying each ray of light reflecting off its surface.

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Furthermore, these sparkling reflections also highlight the Côtes du Solliat, a new type of decoration elaborated by David Candaux. Due to their notable width, and therefore demanding to create, each single band mastered by skilful hands gives the subtle impression of being composed of three separate bands.

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All the 23 inner angles and edges of the tourbillon movement are hand finished with traditionally executed anglage, a typical trademark of the Vallée du Joux’s traditional watchmaking culture, thus making the perfect execution of the movement all the more difficult to achieve.


ESCAPEMENT

The escapement has also been fully developed and designed by David Candaux. His respect for history led him to use the old escapement centerings from the Vallée de Joux tradition. This type of centering is based on non-equidis-tant points of axial reference, unlike those developed for contemporary or industrially produced escapements that are mainly based on equidistant points of reference.

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Such a non-equidistant geometry improves escapement effi-ciency and imparts a refined, aesthetic and practical shape to the anchor’s pallet jewels. The different entrance and exit degrees of lift imparted by this system also guarantee the flow of optimal impulse energy to the balance wheel. Last but not least, a new, optimized geometry for the escapement wheel teeth also improve the global efficiency of the escapement mechanism.


WHEELS AND PINIONS

In total, the movement of the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon comprises 287 individual components, each of which is finished respecting the most demanding standards of traditional high-end watchmaking.

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In this way, the wheels comply with the highest quality requirements and are chamfered, beveled and circular-grained on both sides. As for the pinions, they are polished on a wooden grinding wheel and given a groove just behind the pivot. This historical technique ensures that the lubricating oil remains in place.

ENGRAVED TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

In order to ensure the long-term continuity of the movement in the centuries to come, all the technical specifica-tions required to restore or service the calibre have been micro-engraved on the flank of the grade-5 titanium base-plate for future generations.

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The specifications of the regulating organ, its CGS number (height of the blade of the balance-spring), its inertia, the lift angle and the quality indicator can be found engraved in relief on the fixed second wheel. All these inscriptions are hand engraved and require more than 150 hours to complete.

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It is clear that the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon represents a uniquely personal vision of contemporary haute hor-logerie by David Candaux, which combines both patrimony and creativity.

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The result is a horological state-of-the-art, ultimate model of 21st century mechanical watchmaking. These are timepieces that retain all of the quality and unique character of the traditional watchmaking arts as practiced in the Vallée du Joux by past generations, created in the present, and destined for the future.

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TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

MOVEMENT
Inclined, manual-winding tourbillon movement
Dimensions: 16 ¼ lignes (diameter 35 mm x 6.20 mm high)
Materials: Grade 5 titanium plate and bridges. Untreated titanium and blued titanium for the tourbillon cage
Going train, wheels and bridges inclined at 3 degrees to the horizontal (patent-pending design).
Double winding barrel with 55 hours power reserve
Stainless steel, mirror-polished power reserve bridge
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Number of jewels: 47, with polished sinks and gold chatons
Number of parts: 287
Finest traditional watchmaking craft with hand-made chamfering and anglage,
hand-polishing, flanks brushing and unique Côtes du Solliat effect

ESCAPEMENT Bi-plan tourbillon
  • Single-axis, titanium bi-plan flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock: with cage inclined 3 degrees in relation to the horizontal, balance inclined at 30 degrees in relation to the cage
  • Variable inertia balance
  • Breguet overcoil spring with Philips terminal curve
  • Cascade effect-profiled titanium movement
  • Constant energy supply by double barrel
  • Power reserve indication by conic camshaft system
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FUNCTIONS AND INDICATORS
  • Hours and minutes on a separate, domed counter
  • Seconds hand via tourbillon cage at 9 o’clock
  • Bi-plan tourbillon
  • Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
ENERGY SUPPLY
-    Roughly 55 hours.
-    Chronometry: stops automatically when there is insufficient energy.
-    Indication by camshaft system (patent-pending).
CROWN
Secret and retractable, unlocking via pressure
3 positions: neutral, reset, and winding 31 parts.
FRONT BEZEL, WATCH FACE
-    Semi-spherical hours and minutes dials
-    18K high palladium content white gold indexes chamfered and polished by hand
-    Grade 5 titanium decorated with engine-turned Pointe du Risoux
 HANDS
-    Hours: conical and curved, dagger-shaped, in natural steel, chamfered, polished and blued by hand
-    Minutes: conical and curved, dagger-shaped, in natural steel, chamfered, polished and blued by hand
-    Central seconds: in flame-blued 18K white gold, chamfered and polished by hand
-    Power reserve: dagger-shaped, in 18K white gold, chamfered and polished by hand
 CASE
-    Hours and minutes: “syringe” shape, made of steel, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued.
-    Central second: made of steel, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued.
-    Power supply: inverted “syringe” shape, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued.
CASE
-    Asymmetric, bassinet-shaped
-    Grade-5 titanium
-    Diameter: 43 mm
-    Total thickness: 12.60 mm
-    2 semi-spherical sapphire windows and 1 anti-reflective glass; sapphire case back
-    Caseback with clipped olivette at 6 o’clock
-    Fine satin-finishing and hand executed polishing
WATERPROOFING

-    Guaranteed water resisitant to 30 meters
WATCH-STRAP
-    Made of large scale alligator leather
-    Entirely hand-made
BUCKLE
-    Pin buckle
-    In stainless steel 316L and titanium


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Press Release - 2018
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D. CANDAUX
Rue Du Village 24
CH-1347 Le Solliat
Switzerland
Telephone Number +41 79 425 85 85
Email Address info@dcandaux.ch
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www.facebook.com - dcandaux timepieces
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www.dCandaux.ch

Friday, November 24, 2017

D. CANDAUX – 1740 - The First 8 Flying Tourbillon Edition


















D. CANDAUX1740 - The First 8 Flying Tourbillon Steel 43 mm Gold Dial Edition

David Candaux, skilled and independent watchmaker, presents the “1740 - The First 8”. This very first version of the 1740 embodies his personal vision of Fine Watchmaking. It pushes conventional boundaries through its sleek design, asymmetrical conception and technical specifications, all executed with the greatest rigour and care.

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David Candaux was born and raised in the Vallée de Joux, a region renowned for its excellence in the traditional Swiss luxury and high-end watchmaking industry. Being the son and the grandson of master watchmakers, he nat-urally soaks up the timeless atmosphere of the timekeeping craft.

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He was as much shaped by the nearby lake and forests as by the workbenches at which he started to stand at the age of 14 years old.

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Over 20 years later, and after a brilliant career with several worldwide renowned fine watchmakers who allowed him to consolidate his expertise and knowhow, he has chosen to share his vision of 21st century Fine Watchmaking.

THE HEART AND SPIRIT

The 1740 encapsulates David’s talent, ideas and sensitivity. It combines 3 patents and 8 design registrations.

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Named after the year when the presence of a watchmaker was notified for the first time ever in the Vallée de Joux, this timepiece identity is coupled with the maxim “The Heart and Spirit” which, according to David Candaux, is the key to creating freely.

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If a timepiece is indeed meant to convey pleasure, it must have the power to bring us emotion. In this vein, research, reflection and hard work are essential. In essence, if the heart and spirit work in harmony, they can trigger a unique emotion and a little bit of magic.

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ASYMMETRICAL INTERPLAY

Asymmetrical interplay is at the core of the 1740 – The First 8’s design, from the casing to the mechanism, ultimately creating a perfectly harmonious and innovative piece. The watch face showcases the asymmetric design.

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The unusu-al face is raised at 12 o’clock and lowered at 6 o’clock, thus optimising the watch-bearer’s field of vision and making it easier to read the time. The luminous enamelled and hand-crafted surface is also easy on the eye.

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COMPASS ROSE MICRO DIAL

The hour and minute markers are located on the right side of the watch face. These inverted “syringe” hands are manually flame-blued and the white enamel of the 18 carat grey gold micro dial is made using the traditional tech-nique of “grand feu” enamelling.

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The black enamel inscription of the roman numerals and timers are pad printed. The four “compass rose” compass points are made of grey gold. The central background in 5N 18-carat rose gold is grained by hand. A plain black varnish protects the main flange in satin-finished gold.


INCLINED BI-PLAN TOURBILLON

The flying tourbillon cage rotates on the left side of the watch face. Made of titanium, it is mounted on a ceramic ball bearing inclined at 3 degrees from the case.

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The balance inside the flying tourbillon cage is again inclined from the mobile base, this time by 30 degrees and it is thus aptly named a “bi-plan” flying tourbillon.

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It is constructed in such a way as to ensure a continual change in position of the cage, thus optimising its capacity to calculate the average of the disturbances (gravity or impacts) that could impact on its proper functioning.

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It completes a full revolution in 60 seconds and offers a constant amplitude of 250 degrees due to its design, the Breguet-overcoil spring for a perfectly steady set-up, and the constant device. This balance ensures an optimised and precise movement.

AN INCLINED CALIBRE

The aesthetic and ergonomic design based on asymmetrical proportions has in turn influenced the innovative and patent-protected conception of the movement.

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The technical imperatives linked to the secret crown mean that the entire gear train and bridges have been inclined at 3 degrees in relation to the plate. This reinterpretation of the standard principles of construction has impacted on the position of the bridges in relation to each other.

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As a result of this change, each is inclined at 3 degrees from its neighbour. They therefore reveal a general surface which is no longer uniform but cascading, highlighting even better their finish and accentuating the reflection of light.

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The increased refraction of light also serves to showcase the “Côtes du Solliat”, a new type of decoration elaborated by David Candaux.

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Wide and thus delicate to make, each band gives the subtle impression that it is made up of three different bands. The angles are all rounded by hand, which has made the creation of the 23 “inner angles” all the more complex.

TITANIUM PLATE AND BRIDGES

With the exception of the small steel bridge, all the fixed elements of the calibre are made of untreated titanium, other than the additional polished and brushed decorations.

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The semi-brilliant with polished sinks rubies 1 are held in gold bezels in order to vary the colour spectrum and fluidify the workings.

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All the inscriptions are engraved by hand.


ENGRAVED TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

In order to ensure the complete continuity of the movement, all the technical specifications required to update the calibre have been included on the plate. The specifications of the balance, its CGS number, its inertia, the lift angle and the quality indicator can be found on the fixed second wheel.

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CHRONOMETRY CERTIFICATION

With 309 parts, the movement includes pinions polished on a wooden grinding wheel and with a groove just after the pivot 2. This ancestral technique ensures that the lubricating oil remains in place. Chronometry certified, it guar-antees a power supply of 55 hours, indicated by a gauge at 12 o’clock, and which camshaft system is being patented.

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SECRET CROWN

In order to preserve the harmonious design, there is no visible crown on the 1740 – The First 8. It has thus been replaced by an exclusive secret and retractable version counting no fewer than 31 parts.

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Positioned at 6 o’clock, it is activated by pressure according to three successive positions: neutral, reset, and winding.

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By removing the crown from the edges of the case, David Candaux has solved one of the major aesthetic problems associated with wrist-watches: the visual unbalance. This true engineering prowess is protected by a pending patent.

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ERGONOMIC CASE

The 316L stainless steel case measures 43.5mm in diameter and 12.65mm in thickness. The asymmetric upper glass is crafted from anti-reflective sapphire.

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On the underside, the glass box-shaped sapphire back is held in a metal frame with an olivette 3 to ensure safe and easy access to the calibre.

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The asymmetric lugs fittingly link the wrist-strap to the case. The hand-made watch strap is made of alligator leather and equipped with a pin buckle.

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TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION


MOVEMENT
Gear wheel, wheels and bridges inclined at 3 degrees in relation to the plate (patent-pending design).
Manual-winding mechanical movement
Frequency: 21,600 rotations per hour
Number of jewels: 47 semi-brilliant with polished sinks rubies with solid gold settings
Number of parts: 309
Dimensions: 6.20 mm in depth, 35 mm in diameter.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

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  • Titanium plate and bridges
  • Titanium and blued titanium tourbillon cage
  • Constant Device Bridge in polished steel
  • Fine watchmaking workmanship: hand-crafted polished and brushed angles, Côtes du Solliat.
  • Single-axe titanium flying tourbillon inclined at 9 o’clock: cage inclined at 3 degrees in relation to the plate, balance inclined at 30 degrees in relation to the cage.
  • Breguet-overcoil spring
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Power reserve: Roughly 55 hours.
Chronometry: stops automatically when there is insufficient energy.
Indication by camshaft system (patent-pending)
FUNCTIONS AND INDICATORS
  • Hours and minutes on a separate counter
  • Grand central second
  • Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
ENERGY SUPPLY
-    Roughly 55 hours.
-    Chronometry: stops automatically when there is insufficient energy.
-    Indication by camshaft system (patent-pending).
CROWN
-    Secret, unlocking via pressure.
-    3 positions: neutral, reset, and winding.
-    31 parts.
-    Patent-pending.
WATCH FACE
Central background in 5N 18-carat rose gold, grained by hand
18 carat grey gold and “grand feu” white enamelled hours & minutes micro dial
Black enamel pad-printed numerals
Hand-polished compass points made of 18 carat grey gold
Satin-finished gold flange, cellulose black varnish
HANDS
Hours and minutes: “syringe” shape, made of steel, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued
Central second: made of steel, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued
Power reserve: inverted “syringe” shape, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued
CASE
Asymmetric-shaped
316L Stainless steel
Diameter: 43 mm
Total thickness: 12.65 mm
Asymmetric, anti-reflective sapphire outer watch face; sapphire back, glass box-shaped
Background clipped with olivette at 6 o’clock
316L Stainless steel screwed side inserts
316L Stainless steel asymmetric lugs
Fine watchmaking workmanship: satin-finishing
WATERPROOFING
-    Guaranteed waterproof to 30 metres.
CROWN
Secret, unlocking via pressure
3 positions: neutral, reset, and winding
31 parts
Patent-pending
WATCH-STRAP
Integrated in the case
Made of alligator leather, large scales
Entirely hand-made
316L Stainless steel inserts
BUCKLE Pin buckle

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Press Release - 2017
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---------------------------------
D. CANDAUX
Rue Du Village 24
CH-1347 Le Solliat
Switzerland
Telephone Number +41 79 425 85 85
Email Address info@dcandaux.ch
---------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - dcandaux timepieces
--------------------------------------------
www.dCandaux.ch