Tuesday, June 21, 2016

LOUIS MOINET – Memoris 200th Chronograph Edition


















LOUIS MOINETMEMORIS Chronograph Rose Gold 200th Aniversari Limited Edition NEW

A new version of the first chronograph-watch in history is being released to celebrate the bicentenary of the chronograph, invented by Louis Moinet in 1816.

The date: 2016; the place: Basel; the event: a celebration of the bicentenary of the chronograph, invented by Louis Moinet in 1816. This exceptional jubilee marks the first proper commemoration of the creation of the Compteur de Tierces, the first chronograph in history.

For this unprecedented occasion, Ateliers Louis Moinet is unveiling an anniversary version of its Memoris timepiece, created for the bicentenary of the Chronograph. “We were keen to have a highly exclusive new edition to celebrate the bicentenary of the chronograph,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Ateliers Louis Moinet. “Following on from the first Memoris watches, unveiled in 2015 to celebrate our tenth anniversary, this bicentennial edition opens up a whole new chapter of celebrations – and the next decade of Louis Moinet creations.” 

A new rose gold case

For this very special edition, Memoris will be housed in a 46 mm rose gold case, whose 52 parts are held together by six visible, functional screws on the bezel. Especially created for Memoris, the case sports alternating brushed and polished finishes, and bears the Louis Moinet signature on the side. In homage to the watchmaking skills of our forebears, it features chevé concave crystals, now made from scratchproof sapphire.

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Within the case sits the chronograph – moved to the fore, on the dial side. When the pusher is depressed, every single aspect of the chronograph’s action can be admired in its entirety. The column wheel orchestrates the graceful ballet of the mechanism of steel and gears, passing information to the hands. To ensure no part of the chronograph mechanism is obscured, the counters are made from a specially-manufactured translucent material.

The innovative movement, meanwhile, is neither a skeleton nor a supplementary module: rather, it has been designed for and around the chronograph. Indeed, Louis Moinet has opted to place the time mechanism on the back of the automatic movement, beneath the plate.


Memoris universalis

The bicentennial edition also sports all-exclusive decoration, the centrepiece of which is a special shade of midnight blue for the chronograph plate, mirroring the actual colour of the sky at night. A host of individually hand-engraved stars shine forth, each crafted using a brand new fixed graver technique. This involves attaching a specially-made lathe to a traditional rose engine (also known as a guillocheuse).

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The idea is to combine the power of the rose engine with the precision of a handheld graver. The end result differs from that produced by milling or stamping: while it resembles the effect traditionally associated with a guillocheuse inasmuch as material is removed, here the process focuses on a tiny area with varying levels of depth – two characteristics that traditional engine turning seeks to avoid at all costs.

What is more, individual stars are all fashioned with different angles and depths, so that each and every one captures as much light as possible. This requires the fixed graver to be used many times – an unprecedented technique in watchmaking. The outstanding result gives the novel impression of stars actually shining, twinkling with unique splendour against the backdrop of the night-blue plate beneath them.

The Memoris Anniversaire unveiled at Baselworld 2016 comes in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

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Technical specifications:

Model: MEMORIS 

Collection:  Limited Edition to 20 exemplaires 
Reference:  LM-54.50.20

Movement and finish
Automatic, «Energie Plus» system
Automatic click movement with chronograph function on dial;
hours and minutes off-centre at 6 o’clock.
302-component LM54 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet
Winding: Automatic, bi-directional
Oscillations: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Frequency: 4Hz
Balance wheel: Glucydur, chronometer quality
5 position settings
Lines: 13 ¼
Power reserve: 48 hours
Jewels: 34
Diameter: 30.40 mm
Height: 8.90 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished facets, diamond-cut chamfers and circular gears
with 5N colour finish and straight-line steel.
Features and functions
Monopusher chronograph with column wheel
Chronograph mechanism visible on dial
Hours and Minutes (at 6 o’clock)
  • Seconds (at 9 o’clock)
  • 60-second chronograph (central hand)
  • 30-minute chronograph counter (at 3 o’clock)
Dial and hands
Chronograph hand, “Monogram” design
Hour & Minute “Gouttes de Rosée”® dew-drop hands, blue-tinted with luminous coating
Rounded enamel dial, diamond cut bead
Hand-painted mainplate, engraved with fixed graver technique
Translucent flange and counter bridge
“Energie Plus” system
Pawl winding mechanism
Pawl winding system: comprises a baseplate and two jewelled pawls ‘Crab claw’ spring mechanism
Gearing: automatic wolf-teeth gear
Ball bearing: 7 Myrox balls (ceramic), diameter: 0.397 mm
Oscillating weight: Dual material, with concentric “Clous de Paris” and “Fleur-de-lis” pattern
Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet®, composed of 52 pieces,
design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angle
Monopusher:Clous de Paris” pattern
Material: 18K Rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Thickness: 15.75 mm
Water resistance: 50 meters
Case back: Fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols
Lugs: Screwed settings (1 black zircon jewel and 3 screws per lug)
Crystals: Two convex sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces
Crown protection: Patent pending
Distance between lugs: 24 mm
Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: 18K Rose gold folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lis” motif, two-strand, black DLC-treated steel
Presentation box
Louis Moinet book

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