PANERAI at Watches & Wonders 2023

 

OFFICINE PANERAI – RADIOMIR  Watches & Wonders 2023

 

Radiomir Una Storia Leggendaria
 

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Panerai has a legendary history which started in 1860 in Florence. A history of pioneering innovations since the luminous paste patented by Panerai in 1916, with the name Radiomir.

 

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At Watches and Wonders 2023 Panerai will celebrate its history revamping the Radiomir collection,  with new and heritage-focused models

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Watches & Wonders 2023 brings new complications for Panerai and its legendary Radiomir collection, a new interpretation of the Panerai California Dial, a contemporary reinterpretation in tribute to its legendary Radiomir Collection and a contemporary Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech™.

Radiomir Annual Calendar
The origins where it all began

For over a century, the Panerai family legacy has been intertwined with precision instruments made to accompany the Italian military in their exploits. Commissioned by the Royal Italian Navy to supply high-precision instruments, it was Guido Panerai’s Radiomir – a radiumbased substance that illuminates for visibility in the dark – that began it all when it was patented in 1916.

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An archival receipt shows that the Radiomir prototype was presented in 1935, and over the years, the sandwich construction has been progressively adjusted and is currently made of only two superimposed plates. Other improvements include the crown-protecting device, and a new luminous substance, the Luminor. A watch produced strictly for the military, the forces used it until the early 1970s, with its designs protected by military secrets.

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Officine Panerai leaped into the commercial watch market in 1992, launching three collections of ten references in limited editions – the 44 mm Luminor and Luminor Marina watches and the 42 mm Mare Nostrum chronograph, which were presented on 10 September 1993 at the La Spezia military harbor in the presence of Duke Amedeo D’Aosta, son of Sir Aimone di Savoia, the then supreme head of the Italian diving department. Radiomir was only made public in 1997 when the Vendome Group – today Richemont Group – acquired Panerai, introducing the first Vendome special edition in sixty pieces – the PAM 21 model in a platinum version.

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The acquisition advanced Panerai’s history into contemporary developments from the reopening of the historic boutique in Piazza San Giovanni to the establishment of the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel where fine Swiss watchmaking meet innovation driven by an Italian soul. With a century of innovative instruments developed for performance in response to evolving technical needs, Panerai projects into the future via research, strategic partnerships, sustainability, and empowering modern heroes.

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These initiatives include eSteel™, a next-generation metal obtained from pre-consumer recycled steel scraps (up to 95%) coming from different industries, preferably from Swiss watchmaking industry, whose production significantly reduces CO2 emissions, and a partnership with the IOC-UNESCO to develop solutions with the aim of building a more sustainable, equitable society.

A ground-breaking first for the Annual Calendar complication

Seconds, minutes, hours, days, and now, each month of the year – the intricate time-telling elements that form a precious new in-house movement for Panerai, the Annual Calendar. Developed specifically for the Radiomir collection it is the first annual calendar complication of Panerai.

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Even if the Annual Calendar is notoriously a sophisticated complication, Panerai has always been famous for developing movements with a clear and immediate readability. In fact, the dial clearly allows to display the complete information needed. Date is displayed at 3 o’clock with the day & the date through two dials openings. The current month is displayed on an external moving disc, indicated by a fix arow at 3 o’clock. Every month change, a cam in the movement allows the turning disc in one go, making the information change instantaneously.

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Moreover, change from 30-day and 31-day months is done automatically by the mechanism. A setting must be done only once a year, at the end of February.

Always taking care of the easy readability and functionality, after setting the month and the date, a corrector on the left side of the case allows to change the day click by click.

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Powered by the automatic P.9010/AC caliber, the Annual Calendar is an automatic movement reflecting Panerai’s DNA in crafting complications in addition to their Italian style and flair, with Swiss watchmaking expertise.

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A sapphire crystal open-back case showcases a fascinating complication while the sandwich dial features distinguishing codes of the Maison – the months, days, and the name of the complication, Calendario Annuale, are written in Italian.

Emblematic Radiomir details shape its design, its cushion-shaped case, signature gradient sunbrushed sandwich dial filled with Super-Luminova® cone-shaped crown, and a 45mm case.

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Panerai’s spirit in the quest for technical innovation pairs this new movement with cases crafted from its innovative materials. PAM01363, with a sun-brushed blue shaded dial that transitions from a light center to a darker gradient at the edges and a blue hand-dyed matt alligator strap, is set in a 45mm Goldtech™ case. Panerai Goldtech™ is a gold material developed for the first time by Panerai, including a combination of platinum and copper, giving an intense red appearance.

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A complication as remarkable as the heritage it embodies, the Annual Calendar finds its appeal among connoisseurs who look for the finest details and are curious about watches to tell time and seek pleasure in aesthetics and authenticity. Reaffirming its Italian roots, Panerai introduces the Experience edition, PAM01432, the third reference of the collection where the purchase of the timepiece will allow clients to participate in an unexpected experience to immerse in the values of the Maison. 

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The Experience edition features a sunbrushed burgundy shaded dial, a black hand-dyed matte alligator strap and is set in a 45mm Platinumtech™ case. Every owner of this timepiece will be invited to participate in an extraordinary journey to the Eternal City, Rome, the capital of Italy. The experience will immerse participants in the essence of the brand through events that combine artisanal know-how, culture and tours of historical sites.

All two references feature Panerai’s adjustable BDR buckle – PAM01363 buckle in Panerai Goldtech™ and PAM01432 in white gold – matched to the timepiece’s case for ease of wear, added security, and as an elegant finishing touch to protect the complication. The Annual Calendar collection is a boutique exclusive.

The Annual Calendar collection is a boutique exclusive.

Radiomir California
First ever 45mm size for the California Dial

As part of the Radiomir family, Panerai introduces an exciting timepiece featuring neverbefore-seen details from the Maison. The Radiomir California PAM01349 is the first time ever that a California dial is crafted in 45mm, historically always produced in 47mm, while its color in green makes the watch a collector’s worthy piece.

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Inspired by Ref 3646 from the archives of the Maison, the Panerai California Dial is characterised by alternating Roman and Arabic numerals, bar indexes, and a minute track. The hours 10, 11, 1, and 2 are marked with Roman numerals, while those for hours 4, 5, 7, and 8 are marked with Arabic numerals, resulting in a dial where every half is distinguished by the two different types of numerals.

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With a case set in Brunito eSteel™- a brand-new finishing and first-ever in the history of Panerai, the timepiece showcases a characteristic antiquated look, accentuating its appeal to watch connoisseurs in search of authenticity and storied timepieces.

Every case is hand-finished one by one to create a seasoned look, giving each watch a unique character. The intently weathered effect of the eSteel™ case, created via PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), is paired with a cushion-shaped 45mm case, slim wire lugs, and a hollowed green dial featuring a shaded texturized creativity. 

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The Super-LumiNova® highlights the iconic California indexes in beige, illuminating in green when in the dark, while the vintage appeal of the dial is accentuated with metallic blue hands and a domed sapphire crystal reminiscent of the Plexiglas® crystal used in the early versions of the Radiomir developed for the Italian military. The watch also has a cone-shaped crown, a design that distinguishes the Radiomir collection from other Panerai timepieces.

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PAM01349 comes with a supple calf leather raw cut strap with 3 points seams in dark brown with contrast stitching. The strap features a detail that is exclusive only to this timepiece, a hot printed inscription of ‘G. Panerai e Figlio’, the exact same phrase found on the signage of the original Panerai workshop in Florence.

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The hand-wound P.5000 calibre powers the Radiomir California and features an eight-day power reserve, a long power reserve used historically by Panerai. The iconic 8 days movement is visible thanks to the open case-back in sapphire crystal. 

A distinctive element and DNA of the brand, the long power reserve was vital for the Panerai pieces used by underwater commandos of the Italian Navy, guaranteeing reliability even in the most extreme conditions of use.

The Radiomir California Dial is exclusively available in Panerai boutiques

Radiomir Otto Giorni
Hand finished eSteel™ case for a vintage appeal
A Panerai brand-new finishing where every timepiece has a unique character.

An absolute homage to the original Radiomir and its enduring legacy in shaping modern Panerai interpretations, the new Radiomir Otto Giorni references feature strong vintage aesthetics that expounds on its retro spirit. Showcasing a characteristic antiquated look, it is inspired by the very first Radiomir prototype in 1935 which measured 47mm in diameter. 

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The 1935 model’s entirely new dimensions of its time and design were conceived by the need for excellent readability in often murky waters near military ports. Its robustness, water resistance, and ease of reading sealed it as the sought-after instrument across different military units for various missions. 

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To fulfil the ever-demanding military requirements, the Panerai family continuously improved on the original model introducing elements that include the now iconic sandwich dial to make the hour markers and numerals even more legible and luminescent.

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The new Radiomir Otto Giorni continues this legacy accentuating its appeal to watch connoisseurs in search of authenticity and storied timepieces. Every Radiomir Otto Giorni eSteel™ case is hand-finished one by one to create a seasoned look, giving each watch a unique character. 

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The intently weathered effect of the eSteel™ case, created via PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), is paired with defining elements of the original Radiomir created for the Royal Italian Navy – cushion-shaped case, slim wire lugs, and signature sandwich dial. 

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The Super-LumiNova® dial features a small seconds display at 9 o’clock, the case has an open back, and the sapphire glass crystal is domed, reminiscent of the Plexiglass® crystal of the past. The watch also has a cone-shaped crown, a design that distinguishes the Radiomir collection from other Panerai timepieces.

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PAM01347 has a grainy-shaded dark brown dial and PAM01348 in blue. All the dials transition from a light center to a darker gradient at the edges to give depth to its grainy appearance. The Radiomir Otto Giorni ’s distinctive grainy dials are an ode to the historic Radiomir watches that evolved in colors and appearance over time because of the anodization process of some historic dials made from aluminium.

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To match, a supple calf leather strap in the same hue of the dial with a pebbled effect and contrast stitching, made to season with wear.

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The hand-wound P.5000 calibre powers the Radiomir Otto Giorni and features an eight-day power reserve, a long power reserve used historically by Panerai. The iconic 8 days movement is visible thanks to the open case-back in sapphire crystal. A distinctive element and DNA of the brand, the long power reserve was vital for the Panerai pieces used by underwater commandos of the Italian Navy, guaranteeing reliability even in the most extreme conditions of use. 

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The dial with the term 8 giorni brevettato decal at hour 3 pays homage to Panerai’s roots of 1956 watches, where this graphic inscription comes to life for the first time on the Egiziano model.

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The two Radiomir Otto Giorni references are available exclusively in Panerai boutiques.

Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech™
A versatile and understated silhouette shines in Panerai’s Goldtech™

The contemporary and most versatile of Radiomir interpretations, Radiomir Quaranta, now comes in Panerai Goldtech™ material, expressing the spirit of its original precision through its continuing innovative pursuits.

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Debuting at Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva, the Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech™ is set in a polished Goldtech™ case (PAM01026), matched with a white sun-brushed dial and a matt brown alligator strap. Panerai Goldtech™ is a gold material developed for the first time by Panerai including a combination of platinum and copper donating an intense red appearance.

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A faithful homage to where it all began, Radiomir Quaranta, is the contemporary interpretation of the Maison’s first-ever watch bringing the look of the legendary navy divers of the 1940s to discerning watch lovers of the modern century. Pared down yet commanding in presence, Radiomir Quaranta features elements distinctly linked to its origins, appealing to connoisseurs who identify with the brand’s history and expertise. Iconic details and precision are reinvented in a collection expressing the discreet Italian elegance of the Maison’s roots, where culture meets its esteemed technical instrument-making expertise.

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Quaranta, forty in Italian, stands for the 40mm case size that defines the collection’s essence – a contemporary adaptation of the 47mm size of the original Radiomir edition made some eight decades ago. Measuring 10.15mm in thickness, the watch’s case is the slimmest in the entire Panerai’s range, proposing a versatile silhouette for all genders and occasions. Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech™ features a cone-shaped crown – a distinguishing element of the Radiomir collection – and paired with its matte alligator strap, exudes understated and relaxed luxury to match modern lifestyles.

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Every detail embodies the contemporary spirit of the watch; the iconic cushion-shaped case, the white sun-brushed sandwich dial features indexes and numerals only at twelve and six o’clock and reflects light rays with the movement of the wearer, while the beige Super- Luminova® illuminates in green in the dark. The strap is interchangeable from Panerai’s extensive range of colors, and finishes, including calf for a casual look and shiny alligator versions in a multitude of bright shades for women. Available for purchase separately, the wide selections allow wearers to style the Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech™ for every mood and occasion.

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Technical details include the P.900 calibre, a 4.2mm thick next-generation automatic movement, the first of its size from Panerai to combine the date and three days of power reserve, water-resistance to 3 bar (~30 metres), which will soon also be available up to 5 bar (~50 metres), and a Panerai Goldtech™ buckle.

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Technical Specifications

Collection:    RADIOMIR

 Model:  Radiomir Annual Calendar 45mm Polished Goldtech™

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Ref. PAM01363    

🔴Price: in excess of  38,280 EUR 💰

Movement

Automatic mechanical, P.9010/AC calibre,

16 lignes, 7.90 mm thick, 40 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour.
Incabloc™ anti-shock device. Two barrels. 316 components
Power Reserve: 3 days
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small seconds, Annual Calendar
Case

Diameter 45mm polished Panerai Goldtech™, polished Panerai
Goldtech™ bezel. See-through sapphire crystal
and Panerai Goldtech™ caseback.
Sapphire crystal formed of corondum
Waterproof: 10 bars (~100 meters)
Dial

Blue sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. 

Day and date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. 

Months indicator on the rehaut.
Strap

Dark blue alligator strap, STD, 27/22, BDR.
Polished Panerai Goldtech™ buckle.

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Model:  Radiomir Annual Calendar 45mm Polished Platinumtech™

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Ref. PAM01432  

🔴Price: in excess of  86,010 EUR 💰

Movement

Automatic mechanical, P.9010/AC calibre,

16 lignes, 7.90 mm thick, 40 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour.
Incabloc™ anti-shock device. Two barrels. 316 components
Power Reserve: 3 days
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small seconds, Annual Calendar
Case:
Diameter 45mm polished Panerai Platinumtech™, 

polished Panerai Platinumtech™ bezel. 

See-through sapphire crystal and Panerai Platinumtech™ caseback.
Sapphire crystal formed of corondum
Waterproof: 10 bars (~100 meters)
Dial

Burgundy sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. 

Day and date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. 

Months indicator on the rehaut.
Strap

Alligator strap, STD, 27/22, BDR.
Polished Panerai Goldtech™ buckle.

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Model:  Radiomir California Brunito eSteel ™ 45mm

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Ref. PAM01349   

🔴Price: in excess of  11,960 EUR 💰

Movement

Hand-wound mechanical, P.5000 calibre

Created by Panerai, 15 ½ lignes, 4.5 mm thick, 21 jewels, 

Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour.
Incabloc Parechoc® anti-shock device.
Two barrels. 146 components.
Power Reserve: 8 dayss. 

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Secondsdays
Case

Diameter 45mm, Brunito eSteel™. Brunito eSteel™ bazel.

Brunito eSteelTM caseback. Sapphire crystal formed of corondum
Waterproof: 10 bar (~100 metres)
Dial

Shared green with luminous Arabic and Roman numerals and hour markers
Strap

Dark brown Ponte Vecchio calf leather, ecru stitching, STD, 27/22, BA. 

Trapezoidal Brunito steel

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Model: Radiomir Otto Giorni eSteel ™ 45mm

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Ref. PAM01348     

🔴Price: in excess of  9,550 EUR 💰

Movement

Hand-wound mechanical, P.5000 calibre

Created by Panerai, 15 ½ lignes, 4.5 mm thick, 21 jewels, 

Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour.
Incabloc Parechoc® anti-shock device.
Two barrels. 146 components.
Power Reserve: 8 dayss.

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds
Case

Diameter 45mm, Brunito eSteel™. Brunito eSteel™ bazel.
See through sapphire crystal and Brunito eSteel™ caseback.
Sapphire crystal formed of corundum
Waterproof: 10 bar (~100 metres)
Dial

Degradé blue with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. 

Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Strap 

Calf dark blue, Ecrue, 27/22, BA, STD.
Trapeziodal Brunito steel buckle.

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Model:  Radiomir Otto Giorni eSteel ™ 45mm

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Ref. PAM01347   

🔴Price: in excess of  9,550 EUR 💰

Movement

Hand-wound mechanical, P.5000 calibre

Created by Panerai, 15 ½ lignes, 4.5 mm thick, 21 jewels, 

Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour.
Incabloc Parechoc® anti-shock device.
Two barrels. 146 components.
Power Reserve: 8 days
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds
Case

Diameter 45mm, Brunito eSteel™. Brunito eSteel™ bazel.
See through sapphire crystal and Brunito eSteel™ caseback.
Sapphire crystal formed of corundum
Waterproof: 10 bar (~100 metres)
Dial

Degradé Brown with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. 

Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Strap

Cuoio Toscano Calf, Ecrue, 27/22, BA, STD.
Trapeziodal Brunito steel buckle.

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Model:  Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech™ 45 mm

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Ref. PAM01026  

🔴Price: in excess of  11,680 EUR 💰

Movement

Automatic mechanical, P.900 calibre, 

12 ½ lignes, 4.2 mm thick, 23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour.
Incabloc® anti-shock device. One barrel. 171 components

Power Reserve: 3 days
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Date.
Case

Diameter 40mm polished Panerai Goldtech™

Polished Panerai Goldtech™ bezel, 

see-through sapphire crystal and polished Panerai Goldtech™ caseback, 

sapphire crystal formed of corundum.

Waterproof: 5 bar (~50 metres)
Dial

White sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. 

Date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock.
Strap

Alligator dark brown, T/T, 24/18, BA, STD.
Polished Panerai Goldtech™ buckle.

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Press release- 2023
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