Showing posts with label DANIEL ROTH. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DANIEL ROTH. Show all posts

Friday, January 23, 2026

DANIEL ROTH – EXTRA PLAT Rose Gold Skeleton Edition

 

Daniel RothEXTRA PLAT 18K Rose Gold Skeleton Edition 2026

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

DISCIPLINE, FORM AND INDEPENDENCE

Any meaningful reading of this watch begins with its creator. Daniel Roth was among the defining voices of independent watchmaking from the late 1980s into the early 1990s, at a time when independence carried neither the mythology nor the market-driven prestige it does today. 

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Trained at Audemars Piguet and Breguet, Roth developed an early and highly personal approach to haute horlogerie, one in which mechanical complexity was always governed by legibility, proportion, and an aesthetic stripped of excess. While the tourbillon became a central field for his technical inquiry, it was the double-ellipse case that would emerge as one of the most recognisable design signatures in contemporary watchmaking.

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Within this philosophy, the Extra Plat occupies a position of particular importance. Roth described it as a “silent complication”: thinness was never a shortcut, but a demonstration of total control over design, tolerances, and finishing standards. 

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That same vision finds continuity today within an industrial context profoundly different from that of the brand’s early years. The contemporary revival of Daniel Roth now unfolds within the ecosystem of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, founded by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini and established as one of the most advanced centres of Swiss high watchmaking. 

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This integration does not dilute the Maison’s identity; rather, it expands its expressive potential by providing the technical expertise and artisanal resources necessary to support such a disciplined approach. In the 1990s, a small number of skeletonised Daniel Roth watches were produced in extremely limited quantities, conceived primarily as exercises in technical mastery rather than as fully developed collections. 

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 “The Extra Plat has always embodied the quiet refinement at the heart of Daniel Roth, says Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. “Opening the movement allows its elegance to speak in a new way, while remaining faithful to Mr. Roth’s earliest ambitions and attachment to traditional high watchmaking.”

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Skeletonisation, however, never evolved into a formal design language within the Extra Plat line, leaving this territory largely unexplored in the brand’s historical output. It is precisely this absence, rather than any established tradition, that provides the conceptual starting point for the new model.

EXTRA PLAT SKELETON: A CONSIDERED CONTINUITY

Although skeletonisation appeared sporadically in Daniel Roth’s historical production, it was never applied in a systematic way to the Extra Plat line. This is precisely what lends the current interpretation its significance: not a revival, but an evolution fully aligned with the original spirit of the model. The case retains its iconic double-ellipse geometry, with balanced proportions (38.6 × 35.5 mm) and an overall thickness of just 6.9 mm — an impressive figure given the complexity of the fully visible movement.  

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The result is a watch that remains genuinely wearable, far removed from any demonstrative or exhibition-driven intent. Opening the dial does not compromise legibility: blued steel hands stand out clearly against the mechanical backdrop, while the open-bridge construction guides the eye along a rational path, architectural rather than decorative in nature.

DR002SR: THE EXPOSED MECHANICAL ARCHITECTURE OF THE CALIBRE

At the core of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton lies the calibre DR002SR, a manually wound movement developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton

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Derived from the DR002, its architecture has been fundamentally reworked to accommodate skeletonisation without sacrificing structural integrity, following a design approach in which stability, rigidity, and visual clarity are treated as inseparable priorities. Bridges and mainplate are crafted in solid 18k 5N rose gold, a decision driven by both technical and aesthetic considerations. 

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The material allows for exceptionally precise surface treatment, enhancing chamfers, internal angles, and polished finishes, while ensuring chromatic continuity with the case itself. The contrast with black-polished steel components further reinforces the movement’s three-dimensional presence. 

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“With the DR002SR, we revisited the original calibre and reworked its architecture specifically for skeletonisation,” explains Michel Navas. “We reshaped the bridges and plates to open the movement as much as possible, while ensuring that rigidity, reliability, and chronometry were never compromised.” 

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From a technical standpoint, the calibre features a free-sprung balance, operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, and delivers a power reserve of 65 hours. What defines the movement, however, is not its technical profile but the coherence of its construction. Even with the bridges extensively opened, the movement never feels fragile or compromised; on the contrary, it conveys a clear sense of structural assurance and purpose. 

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“The decision to craft the bridges and plates in solid gold was both technical and aesthetic,” adds Enrico Barbasini. “Gold is a noble metal that responds beautifully to traditional finishing. It allows the handwork to speak clearly, which is essential in a skeletonised movement.” 

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Function remains the guiding principle throughout, shaping every decision despite the movement’s full visual exposure. Such discipline is made possible by the manufacturing culture behind the project. La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton functions not simply as a production site, but as an integrated horological ecosystem, where designers, engineers, and finishers work in continuous dialogue. 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Within this framework, skeletonisation was never treated as an aesthetic goal in its own right, but as the logical consequence of an architecture conceived from the outset to remain legible, stable, and uncompromisingly finished in every detail.

FINISHING: SKELETONISATION AS A LANGUAGE

Ultimately, what sets the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton apart is not transparency itself, but the way finishing is used as an expressive tool. Throughout the movement, sharp internal angles — beyond the reach of CNC machining — signal an uncompromising level of handcraft, with every chamfer executed and polished entirely by hand. 

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Skeletonisation is therefore not treated as a visual end in itself. Instead, it exposes the full extent of the artisans’ work: opening the movement multiplies the number of surfaces to be finished, dramatically increasing the amount of manual labour required for each individual watch. 

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“The work required to finish a skeletonised calibre of this nature demands complete mastery of traditional techniques,” note Barbasini and Navas. “At La Fabrique du Temps, we can perform all of these operations under one roof, ensuring that every component reflects the standards of Daniel Roth. This 

  For the trained eye, the result is unmistakable. The movement can be examined from virtually any angle without revealing unfinished or compromised areas, a demanding standard that remains exceptional even by contemporary high-watchmaking criteria. 

REDEFINING ELEGANCE THROUGH THE EXTRA PLAT

Within the Extra Plat family, which includes six models in total spanning both solid-dial executions and the skeletonised interpretation, the Rose Gold Skeleton occupies a singular position. 

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It is the most conceptually charged expression of the collection. Placed in context, the watch makes its intent immediately clear: skeletonisation is not introduced as ornament, but as a disciplined working method, one that reshapes the entire identity of the Extra Plat.  Produced in small annual quantities and available from January 2026 at a price of CHF 85,000 before taxes, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is clearly aimed at collectors who understand restraint not as simplification, but as a higher order of complexity. 

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In doing so, Daniel Roth takes a position that sets it apart from many contemporary approaches to skeletonisation, allowing the complete exposure of the mechanism itself to serve as the ultimate proof of rigour. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

ModelEXTRA PLAT Rose Gold Skeleton Edition

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

  Reference  DBBD02A1  

Case
Material:  Rose gold 5N.
Dimensions:  38,6m x 35,5mm.
Thickness:  6,9mm
Case Back: 18K 5N rose gold and sapphire crystal, affixed with four screws
Sapphire with AR coating
Water resistance: 30m
Dial 
    Dial: 
18K rose gold 5N base with plate and bridges  
Openworked dial -
    Hands: 
Blued steel arrowhead hands
Movement
Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.  
Calibre DR002SR:
    Power reserve
: 65 hrs
    Frequency  - 4 hZ (28,800 vph)
    free-sprung balance beating
    Dimensions:  31 x 28mm
    Thickness:  3,10mm
    Components: 141
    Jewels: 21
Strap
Brown calfskin leather.
Buckle:  18K rose gold 5N pin buckle   
Lug width - 20mm 
 
🔰Edition - Permanent collection, Limited production  
🔴 Price 85,000 CHF / 90.450 (Excl. Taxes) 💰

#DANIELROTH #LaMontreObjetDArt #ExtraPlatRoseGoldSkeleton #LVMHWatchWeek26 #LVMHWatchWeek

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Press Release - 2026
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www.instagram.com - DanielRothOfficial
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www.DanielRoth.com

Friday, December 12, 2025

DANIEL ROTH – Tourbillon Platinum Edition

 

Daniel RothTourbillon Platinum Edition 2025

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The name Daniel Roth is synonymous with traditional watchmaking and discreet excellence. The second golden age of this storied brand continues with the Tourbillon Platinum, the latest expression of the brand's mantra: La Montre Objet d'Art.

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Directly inspired by the iconic Tourbillon reference 2187/C187 of 1988, the Tourbillon Platinum is a tribute to Daniel Roth's favorite complication and dedication to the timeless ideals of haute horlogerie.

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The revival of Daniel Roth began in 2023, starting with Mr. Roth's favored complications, the Tourbillon and the Extra Plat. Both models debuted with a 20-piece souscription series in yellow gold dressed in Clou de Paris guilloché, followed by regular production models in rose gold with pinstripe guilloché.

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Both the Tourbillon and the Extra Plat share the same design codes and horological principles, with the slightly refined double-ellipse case design and in-house manufacture calibres. The DR001 found in the Tourbillon and the DR002 that powers the Extra Plat are shape movements finished to the highest standards, developed exclusively for Daniel Roth by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Master Watchmakers and the founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

Continuing the heritage established by the pair in gold, the Tourbillon Platinum elevates the collection with a more contemporary aesthetic that opens a new chapter for Daniel Roth.

Elevating an icon

Throughout history, watchmakers have often used platinum to dignify their most exceptional creations. Used selectively during the first golden age of the brand, platinum has, until now, been absent from the latest chapter in the history of Daniel Roth. The Tourbillon Platinum heralds the return of this noble metal, beloved by collectors for its extraordinary heft and rarity.

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Beyond its exceptional rarity, platinum is harder to work with than gold. Specifically, the process for machining platinum components requires special tooling and more frequent intervention by the machinist. As a result, a platinum case can take up to three times as long to make as a case in 18k gold.

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    Platinum is a heavyweight material in every sense. For decades, platinum has instilled both love and fear in the hearts of watchmakers,” explains Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. “It is often reserved for special creations, in part because it is so much more difficult to work with than gold.”

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    Naturally, the esteemed reputation of platinum makes it irresistible to a brand like Daniel Roth,” continues Matthieu Hegi. “When it came time to animate the Tourbillon in a white metal, one thing was certain; it had to be platinum.”

True to the design and spirit of the C187, the Tourbillon Platinum adopts the double-ellipse shape, a foundational element of the Daniel Roth aesthetic. Originally conceived by Mr. Roth himself in 1988, the unusual shape, combining both square and circular elements, is the ideal showcase for the large tourbillon. Innovative at launch, the double-ellipse has stood the test of time and is one of just a handful of contemporary case designs that have achieved iconic status. 

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All of the critical details of the original double-ellipse case have been faithfully recreated, and this historical fidelity is more than skin deep. In a nod to the 1988 original, the longest of the seconds hand's three arms passes through a discrete channel on the inside of the case; a private detail that provides continuity from past to present.

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But the Tourbillon Platinum's double-ellipse case is more than just a carbon copy of the original. For the revival of Daniel Roth, the signature case enjoys subtle refinements, while being largely indistinguishable from the original. The lugs, still meticulously hand-soldered to the case middle, now arch downward to improve ergonomics on the wrist. A living tribute to the pioneering spirit that guides Daniel Roth, the case profile of the Tourbillon Platinum is slightly slimmer than that of the original C187, thanks to the in-house manufacture calibre DR001.

An emblematic palette

The dial of the Tourbillon Platinum is similarly precious, made of solid white gold and finished in an anthracite hue. This material provides the ultimate canvas for Daniel Roth's linear guilloche, painstakingly applied by hand using a straight-line engine.

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Eminently traditional in every respect, the chapter ring for the hours and minutes is crafted from 925 sterling silver, as are the tri-sectioned seconds scale and the iconic 'moustache' on either side that bear the Daniel Roth brand name and individual watch number.

Each one of these elements is crafted separately, their borders fluted with filet sauté guillochage using a traditional hand-operated rose engine. The serpentine form of the 'moustache' proved particularly challenging for the guillocheurs, and required the development of a bespoke tool fitted to the rose engine.

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All components of the dial have been produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which now has a fully-equipped guillochage workshop with antique engine-turning machines that have been entirely restored to perfect functionality.

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These time-honored techniques put a natural limit on production. A single dial for the Tourbillon Platinum can take up to three days to complete, line by line by a single Maître Guillocheur, with the smallest mistake at any point along the way requiring the dial to be discarded.

The tourbillon calibre DR001: the beating heart of Daniel Roth

The modern-day renaissance of Daniel Roth began in 2023 with the introduction of the DR001, a new shape movement developed specifically for the brand's signature double-ellipse case.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The tourbillon carries special significance for Daniel Roth. It was none other than Mr. Roth himself, during his time at Breguet, who created the brand's first-ever tourbillon wristwatch. Mr. Roth returned to the tourbillon for the launch of his own brand, being among the first independent watchmakers to accomplish such a feat.

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In keeping with the philosophy of Daniel Roth, each of the DR001's 206 components are finished by hand; even the parts hidden beneath the dial are decorated as if on display. Though these components remain unseen outside the manufacture, the expert craftsmanship reveals itself to the connoisseur's discerning touch during winding and setting.

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    As long-time friends of Daniel, we knew his expectations for the DR001 would be high. Both Enrico and myself share his philosophy and passion for tradition and elegance, and were able to leverage the unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to create a tourbillon worthy of the brand's second act,” says Michel Navas.

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    Daniel was an inspirational figure for Michel and myself, so it was important to both of us to respect the brand's original emphasis on both architecture and finissage,” adds Enrico Barbasini. “Daniel was a true pioneer of independent watchmaking, so it wouldn't be enough for us to simply recreate the past. Our vision for DANIEL ROTH is to remain true to the brand's history while elevating the subtle details.”

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Unlike the Tourbillon Souscription, which featured a solid case back, the DR001 movement inside the Tourbillon Platinum can be admired through a sapphire crystal. This window into the heart of the Tourbillon Platinum reveals all the hallmarks of traditional haute horlogerie, including black-polished steel, rounded anglage, perlage, and particularly thin Côtes de Genève that echoes the guillochage en ligne dial.

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The DR001 is further elevated by the presence of three polished gold chatons that secure the jewels in the gear train. Aficionados of fine watchmaking will appreciate that while some of these magnificent details are put on display, others remain hidden, waiting to be discovered by future generations of watchmakers. 

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The technical characteristics of the DR001 demonstrate the manufacture's savoir-faire, and represent an improvement over the original in several respects. The power reserve has been increased to 80 hours, while at the same time the movement's thickness has been reduced to provide a more elegant fit on the wrist.

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The Tourbillon Platinum completes the Daniel Roth tourbillon collection with a very exclusive edition that introduces a contrasting anthracite grey dial. The commanding presence of the platinum case is yet another bridge to the brand's early history, while the refined double-ellipse case represents a vision for the future.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

ModelTourbillon Platinum Edition

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

  Reference  DAAG01A1  

Case
Material  Platinum
Dimensions  38,6 x 35,5mm
Thickness  9,2mm
Water resistance  30m
Dial 
    Dial:
White gold base with Pinstripes guilloché
White gold base with anthracite finish and pinstripe hand-guilloché pattern
Applied sterling silver hours and minutes disc, triple seconds track and "moustache" with fluted hand-guilloché borders 
Black Roman hour numerals and hands, black Arabic numerals on triple 20-second tracks 
Three black hands to indicate the seconds on the 1-minute tourbillon 
 
  Sterling silver 925 minute track
    Black decalque font
    Hands:
Stainless steel black coating
Movement
Manufacture manual winding movement developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton 
Calibre DR001:
    Complication  Tourbillon 1-minute
    Power reserve 80
hrs
    Frequency  - 3 hZ (21,600 vph)
    Dimensions  31 x 28mm
    Thickness  4,6mm
    Components - 206
    Jewels - 19
Strap
Brown calfskin leather     
Lug width - 20mm 
 
🔰Limited EditionOnly 20 Pieces 
🔴 Price 185,000 CHF / 190.450 (Excl. Taxes) 💰

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Press Release - 2025
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www.instagram.com - DanielRothOfficial
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www.DanielRoth.com

Friday, August 16, 2024

DANIEL ROTH – Tourbillon Souscription Gold Edition

 

Daniel RothTourbillon Souscription Yellow Gold Edition 2024

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 The original case design revisited

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Thirty-five years after the brand was first founded, DANIEL ROTH is once again making its debut, and once again with a tourbillon. 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

Paying homage to the original design of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription encapsulates the values of the DANIEL ROTH brand that have remained unchanged over the decades.

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The brand’s approach is just as it was in 1988 - tapping on the skills of the finest watchmakers, constructors, and specialist suppliers to create artisanal timepieces. 

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A small team of talented craftsmen and women at La Fabrique du Temps will continue the DANIEL ROTH legacy, holding fast to the brand’s mantra since its foundation: La Montre Objet d’Art.

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Executed in traditional yellow gold, a metal exclusive to this edition, the case of the Tourbillon Souscription is naturally a double ellipse. 

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To maximise the elegance of the Tourbillon Souscription, it has only a single face on the front, resulting in a case that is a mere 9.2 mm high.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The double-ellipse case retains the proportions of the original, but with subtle refinements. The lugs are still carefully soldered by hand to the case middle, but they have been slightly reshaped to create an elegant downward arch, improving the ergonomics of the iconic case.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Like the case, the dial is a tribute to the brand’s history, but gently refined. Formed from a plate of solid yellow gold, the dial is decorated with Clous de Paris guilloche just as the original was.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

In a nod to contemporary independent watchmaking – an industry made possible by DANIEL ROTH’s pioneering approach - the dial is produced in the mountain-top workshop of Kari Voutilainen, one of the leading independent watchmakers of today. 

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 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Although the dial retains the same markings as on the original, the typography has been streamlined to give it contemporary finesse.

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Under the dial is the in-house manufacture calibre DR001 conceived exclusively for DANIEL ROTH

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The DR001 is manufactured entirely by La Fabrique du Temps, the Geneva workshop founded by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini – both master watchmakers who will personally oversee the creation of each DANIEL ROTH timepiece.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The revived DANIEL ROTH Maison continues this legacy, with the new Tourbillon Souscription model showcasing refinements in design and mechanics, including an in-house calibre and a solid gold guilloche dial. 

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Despite modern enhancements, the watch retains the classic double ellipse case with improved ergonomics and a slimmer profile. 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The prototype of this iconic model was revealed at LVMH Watch Week in January 2024, and the limited 20-piece collection is set to be delivered in the first half of 2024.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Tourbillon Souscription Edition

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

  Reference  DR0011YG-01 

Case
Material  18K Yellow gold 3N
Dimensions  38,6 x 35,5mm
Thickness  9,2mm
Water resistance  30m
Movement
Manufacture manual winding movement developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton 
Calibre DR001:
    Complication  Tourbillon 1-minute
    Power reserve 80
hrs
    Frequency  - 3 hZ (21,600 vph)
    Dimensions  31 x 28mm
    Thickness  4,6mm
    Components - 206
    Jewels - 19
Strap
Brown calfskin leather     
Lug width - 20mm 

🔰Limited EditionOnly 20 Pieces 
🔴 Price 140,000 CHF / 149.450 (Excl. Taxes) 💰

 ---------------------------------
Press Release - 2024
---------------------------------------------
www.instagram.com - DanielRothOfficial
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www.DanielRoth.com