Showing posts with label BREGUET. Show all posts
Showing posts with label BREGUET. Show all posts

Monday, November 11, 2024

BREGUET – MARINE Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Platinum


BREGUETMARINE Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 Platinum 43.9mm Black Dial Version 2024

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 Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
A Grand Complication in platinum armour

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The Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, standing as the technical flagship of the Marine collection, embodies a mysterious aura and adopts a solid platinum armour to house its movement, Calibre 581DPE.

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A complication as exceptional as this is mesmerising, the Equation Marchante records the difference between local time - the time that punctuates our daily lives - and solar time - the time dictated by the earth’s rotation relative to the sun. 


Featuring a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon, this Marine piece is made in platinum, a rare and durable precious metal renowned for its remarkable resistance to corrosion and enduring brilliance.

Abraham-Louis Breguet, Watchmaker to the Royal Navy

The origins of the contemporary collection trace back to the prestigious title "Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy" awarded to Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous workshop in 1775, by Louis XVIII on October 27th, 1815, a year after he was appointed a member of the Board of Longitude.

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BREGUET Marine chronometer N°3196 sold January 14, 1822 to the French Navy

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This distinguished role crowned the revolutionary advances that the master made over four decades and drew on his scientific knowledge acquired during his training with his mathematician Father Joseph-François Marie, as well as renowned watchmakers such as Ferdinand Berthoud and Jean-Antoine Lépine. 

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BREGUET simple watch with equation of time3862
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It enabled him to design marine chronometers, indispensable precision tools for astronomical navigation, and to calculate the position of ships in a fleet.

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Montres Breguet's rich heritage, which connects the House to the oceans and navigation, has paved the way for the Marine collection, a family of timepieces with a sporty silhouette and signature aesthetics that clearly evoke the codes of the marine world: a dial decorated with a hand guilloché "wave" motif, a crown guard with an undulating profile, a hand finished with an anchor among other distinctive features.

Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, ambassador of Breguet expertise

This highly technical timepiece, featuring three mechanical high complications: the running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, - driven by the self-winding Calibre 581DPE, embodies the spirit of innovation that has characterised the brand since its inception.

Equation Marchante

This exceptional complication simultaneously displays the difference between mean solar time (calendar hours and minutes) and true solar time (used since ancient times, it can maximally deviate by up to 14 minutes late or 16 minutes early) thanks to an equation of time cam linked to a feeler to drive the equation lever.

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With the Marine 5887, reading the time is instantaneous thanks to its two minute hands: one Breguet-style with a luminescent tip for calendar time, and the other, finished with a gold plated, diamond polished and fluted ring, for solar time.

Perpetual calendar


Acting like a mechanical diary, this complication indicates the date with an anchor-shaped retrograde hand that follows an arc-shaped scale, graduated from 1 to 31, located in the upper part of the dial. The day, month and leap year are displayed in two open windows at 10.30 and 1.30. This information is detailed in white on a black background for easy legibility.

Tourbillon

Created by Abraham-Louis Breguet, patented in 1801 to counter the adverse effects of gravity on the running of mechanical movements in pocket watches, features a titanium cage and a Breguet balance-spring made in silicon at around 5 o'clock.  To enhance the functionalities of the Marine Equation Marchante 5887, a blued gauge positioned between 7 and 8.30 o’clock provides information on the level of stored energy available, which amounts to 80 hours when the watch is fully wound.

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An engraved platinum peripheral oscillating weight decorated with a "wave" motif wraps around the hand chiselled back of the calibre 581DPE depicting the silhouette of the Royal Louis, a Royal Navy warship commissioned in 1752. The barrel is decorated with a hand engraved compass rose.

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Based on the self-winding 581DR calibre, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet also flaunts a third complication that is noteworthy in its own right: a 60-second tourbillon with a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring. 

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This innovative characteristic notably enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintaining a particularly comfortable power reserve for a self-winding model.  This 80-hour autonomy is displayed through an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock. 

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Guilloché and engraving are delicate arts, executed by hand by exceptional artisans, true masters of their craft. Each pattern is patiently sculpted, each line traced with infinite precision, breathing unique, almost lifelike character into each timepiece. 

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These pieces become much more than mere timepieces: they capture the essence of time and the soul of the artisan, offering a rare luxury — that of wearing an exclusive and inimitable work of art.

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The equation of time is one of the rarest and most fascinating horological complications. It serves to display the difference between mean solar time, corresponding to civil or standard hours and minutes, and true solar time, meaning the actual solar hours and minutes. 

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Since , the sun has been used as the basis of time. Nonetheless, the visible motion of the sun – the true solar time indicated on sundials – is irregular. With the improvement of timekeeping precision, watches and clocks became the basis of time and true solar time was replaced by mean solar time, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours.

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 BREGUET Sketches illustrating the installation of Marine chronometers aboard ships
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Mean solar time may show a discrepancy with true solar time ranging from minus 16 minutes to plus 14 minutes. On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. Given that the sun’s various positions in the sky are reproduced in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmakers can “program” them by means of a special cam.

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The latter is shaped like a figure 8 and mechanically reproduces the path of the sun’s successive positions, called an analemma curve. Requiring extremely accurate execution, the cam is coupled with a feeler-spindle that drives an equation lever serving to indicate the difference between civil time and solar time (-16 to +14 minutes). This read-off is generally provided on a sector or subdial. 

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 It is then up to the user to mentally add or subtract the difference displayed in relation to mean time in order to calculate true solar time. The new Marine Équation Marchante from Breguet supersedes this principle. It simultaneously indicates civil time and true time by means of two separate minutes hands. The running solar hand, adorned with a facetted golden sun, provides a direct reading of solar time minutes that is both quicker and more user-friendly.

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This apparently simplicity conceals an arduous construction process that few watchmakers are capable of achieving. The solar minutes hand has to meet two imperative demands: it must sweep in a conventional way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter by a distance that varies in accordance with the analemma curve, in order to display the equation.   

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Breguet was able to accomplish this by equipping its running solar hand with a differential gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independently: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year. Breguet has developed an extremely slim equation cam borne by a transparent sapphire disc also serving to correct the equation of time by month.

Aesthetic poetry: the open sea under the night sky

Presented in 👉 2017, the Marine Equation Marchante 5887 initially featured a 43.9 mm diameter case available in platinum or pink gold with an ultramarine face. 

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 Three years later for the 220th anniversary of the tourbillon, the collection was expanded to include the warm reflections of pink gold combined with a chocolate-coloured dial.

This autumn, Montres Breguet completes the series by choosing the gentle strength of platinum for its fluted case. This precious grey metal is combined with the black hue for the "wave" guilloché dial, evoking the image of an ocean cradled by the silvery glow of the Moon. The complexity that the running equation of time brings to this model is naturally complemented on this “Grande Complication” by a perpetual calendar. Two apertures – one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock – respectively display the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle. 

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The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock. The dial layout of the information has been carefully designed to ensure simple and intuitive linear reading, along with impeccable visual appeal.

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At the centre of this image, four hands play a precise role: the stylised pair of Breguet hands with Super-LumiNova® filled tips indicating the hours and minutes, the hand with a golden circle indicating the solar time, and finally the hand with an anchor indicating the date. Raised blackened gold appliques Roman numerals are set on a wide circular-brushed ring, interspersed with luminescent dots and surmounted by gold hour-markers in the shape of nautical pennants.

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A truly magnificent timepiece, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet sets the tone. It features new aesthetic signature codes giving it a modern and dynamic appearance: central lugs combining polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting, with visible flanks; a crown topped with a polished “B” against a sandblasted background; as well as a crown adorned with a chamfered and satin-brushed wave motif. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  MARINE

Model: MARINE Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Platinum

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Reference. 5887PT/92/5WV

Case
Case in 950 platinum with delicately fluted caseband. Fluted middle
Sapphire caseback single, internal anti-reflective coating
Wave-shaped crown-guard
Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective
43.9mm diameter. 
11.8mm thickness
Water-resistant to 10bar (100m).
Dial
White gold with black finishing, hand-guilloché "wave" motif
Circular brushed silvered hour circle
Black Roman numerals in 18K gold appliqué
Pyramid hour markers in 18K gold and luminescent material
Date with retrograde hand from 9 to 3 o'clock
Applied 18K rhodium-plated gold windows, day at 10.30, month and year at 1.30
Rhodium-plated hands: Breguet tip, in 18K gold faceted, Super-LumiNova® with
blue emission colour (calendar time) - baton, gold plated ring (solar time) - straight,
ship's anchor, retrograde (date) - triangular on tourbillon (months)
Tourbillon opening at 5 o'clock, sapphire crystal
  • Running solar hand with facetted golden sun.
  • Days of the week in an aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock.
  • Months and leap-year cycle in an aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock.
  • Retrograde dates indication on an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock.
  • Power reserve in an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.
Movement
Self-winding movement with running equation of time, perpetual calendar, tourbillon,  
 Cal. 581DPE. 16 ½ lines, 563 components,
Numbered and signed Breguet.   
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Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis.
16¾ lignes. 57 jewels.
Silicon escapement wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns.
Silicon balance spring.
Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) Flat silicon spiral
80-hour power reserve
Hand-engraved decorative Royal Louis ship, compass rose 
Tourbillon: titanium cage Grade 5, engraved "MARINE ROYALE" bar Equation of time cam on Tourbillon axis
Indicators
  • Hours, minutes in the centre
  • Minutes (solar time) in the centre
  • Small seconds on the tourbillon
  • Date hand
  • Day, month, leap year in 18K rhodium-plated applied windows
  • Power reserve
Strap
Black textured rubber
Triple-blade 950 platinum folding clasp


Variations
  • 950 platinum case, blue dial (ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV)
  • 18K rose gold case, brown dial (ref. 5887BR/G2/9WV)
  • 18K rose gold case, silver dial (ref. 5887BR/12/9WV)
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  Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world 2024


#Breguet
#breguetMARINE
#MARINEROYALE
#BreguetTourbillon  
#EquationMarchante
#breguet5887
#myBreguet
#myBreguetmoment

  🔴 Price upon request 💰 

🔰Edition : No 

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Press release - 2024
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www.facebook.com - Montres Breguet
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www.Breguet.com

Friday, September 20, 2024

BREGUET –Type XX Chronograph 2067 Automatic

BREGUETType XX 2067 Chronograph 42mm Rose Gold Blue Dial Automatic - 2024

Chronograph 2067
Gold in the spotlight
 

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 Following the launch of the new-generation Type XX in June 2023, Breguet
continues to develop the line by welcoming a civilian version in gold,
incorporating ceramic.

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Its style is assertive, sporty and elegant. The new civilian version Type XX adds a number of fresh features to the fourth-generation range. 

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The first gold bezel with a bidirectional ring made of ceramic, a material used for the first time in Breguet collections, for this first new-generation Type XX in gold.

Yesterday's inspiration for today's design

Like the versions released in June 2023, this new timepiece draws inspiration from the emblematic watches dating back to the collection’s origins. 

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Gold was indeed chosen for very rare timepieces in 1955, notably Breguet No. 1780, which now belongs to the Breguet Museum. There were only three gold timepieces in this small series, called either Type 20 (military version) or Type XX (civilian version).

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As for the bezel contrasting with the case, they appeared on the second generation of Type XXs dating from the 1970s, which were adorned with different graduations such as tachymeter scales, or with GMT indications.

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These historical references blend with the emblematic codes of the civilian Type XX. The 15-minute counter is located at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock and the running seconds at 9 o'clock. 

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Just as in the military-inspired version, the size of the counters differs to make the dial more dynamic and legible.  

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The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are covered in a white luminescent coating. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42 mm-diameter rose gold case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight-line crown can be set in three different positions.

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Positions: 1) neutral, winding 2) date setting, 3) time setting. The 2 o'clock pusher is used to start and stop the chronograph function, while the 4 o'clock pusher serves to reset the chronograph and restart it immediately, the famous "flyback" function.

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This new model is presented in a havana-coloured leather box reminiscent of an aircraft wing profile. It is delivered with both alligator leather and NATO straps, in midnight blue. The NATO strap is embellished with white piping. 

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The interchangeable strap system enables the leather strap to be removed easily, independently and tool-free. Simply pressing the pushers beneath the lugs makes it possible to attach and detach the two halves of the leather strap, while the NATO strap slips between the two bars, passing under the case.

What's new on the front

Ceramic ring

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The graduated, bidirectional rotating bezel in gold features a blue ceramic ring that contrasts elegantly with the gold of the case and numerals, while harmoniously blending with the dial colour.

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The dial

Its sunburst blue hue is reminiscent of the variations in the sky after sunset. 

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To add depth, the three counters feature a snailed motif. Finally, the numerals are in gold and filled with luminescent material.

Calibre 728

Released in 2023 after four years of development, the 728 movement was conceived, developed and finalised within the Manufacture Breguet. It is of course equipped with a "flyback" function. Prior to its creation, three operations were required instead of just one. 

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The new calibre's innovative start and reset systems have been designed to ensure that they can be used smoothly and accurately. Whatever function is used, the pressure exerted on the pushers is even and balanced. 

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As for the vertical clutch mechanism, it was chosen for its precision upon starting. Finally, to ensure the robustness of the movement and guarantee its precision in the event of shocks, the Maison opted for a cross-through bridge to hold the balance wheel in place.

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Designed to take up as much of the space available in the movement as possible, the barrel providing the energy is fitted with a spring whose high-energy-density material provides a longer 60-hour power reserve.

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A great deal of effort has gone into the aesthetics of the movement and its decoration: in addition to the sunburst motif, snailing, chamfering, circular graining and other visible decorations on the components, the brand has given the column wheel a black treatment combining contrast with tribological improvement. 

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The sapphire crystal caseback reveals not only the details of the movement but also its oscillating weight. The blackened gold oscillating weight is shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo.

The Type XX epic, a journey through time

As early as 1949, Breguet – which had long been closely involved in aeronautical circles – developed chronographs with the famous special function that was soon named "flyback". 

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This considerably simplified the use of the chronograph, thanks to the reset function that instantly restarted the chronograph at the touch of a pusher, a time-saver much appreciated by pilots. 

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In 1952, Breguet was informed that a bid for tender was going to be organised by the French Air Force and submitted models to the Service Technique Aéronautique. In the spring of 1953, these models were approved under the name Type 20

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This paved the way for official orders placed and in 1954, the long-hoped-for order arrived: a very large one involving 1,100 units for the French Air Force, followed in 1958 by a 500-unit order for the French Naval Aviation. 

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At the same time, Breguet began selling many civil Type XXs, a trend that would continue for several decades. 

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The first civilian Type XXs were sold in 1953. Since then, different generations have come and gone. Some were innovative, like the Type XXII, reference 3880, with a different 10 hertz frequency. 

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Today, the legend continues with a fourth generation of Type XXs, drawing on Breguet’s watchmaking expertise as well as its assertive aesthetics, making this collection an icon of today and tomorrow.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  Type XX

Model:   Type XX Chronograph 2067 Gold - Civilian Version

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 Reference   2067RK/Y9/9WU 

Case
Rose gold, gold bezel and blue ceramic ring
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 14.1 mm
Water resistance: 10 bar (100 m)
Dial
Sunburst blue
Movement
Self-winding Calibre: 728
Balance spring: flat, silicon
Escapement: inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Frequency: 5 Hz
Power reserve: 60 hours
Components: 350

Functions: flyback chronograph, date, small seconds, 15-minute and 12-hour counters
Strap
Set of two interchangeable straps:
One in alligator leather, the other in NATO fabric.
Each has its own 18K gold pin buckle.

Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world 2024


#Breguet
#breguetTypeXX
#Breguet Chronograph
#breguet2067
#myBreguet
#myBreguetmoment

  🔴 Price upon request 💰 

🔰Edition : No 

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Press release - 2024
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www.facebook.com - Montres Breguet
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www.Breguet.com