Saturday, March 31, 2018

F.P.Journe – Chronographe Monopoussoir RATTRAPANTE


F.P.Journe –  LineSport Chronomètre Monopoussoir RATTRAPANTE 44mm - Collection 2018

The lineSport collection broadens with the new Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante, available in 3 versions: one in Platinum PT 950, one in 18 K red Gold and one in Titanium grade 5. The case of 44 mm diameter and 12 mm thick encloses the new monopoussoir split second chronograph movement with a very large date, made in 18 K rose Gold for the Platinum and the red Gold versions and in Aluminium alloy for the Titanium version.

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The precious metal bracelets are assorted to their respective case. Two new bracelets in Platinum and red Gold with matte finishing have been developed while the Titanium bracelet is identical to the existing lineSport version. Rubber inserts are fixed on the case and the bracelet links to protect the watch from frictions on smooth surface like bumpers of ancient automobiles. The links attached to the case are also articulated to adapt to the different wrist sizes with an adjustable folding clasp in length of approximately 5 mm.

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This Chronograph features a power reserve of 80 hours making it possible to efficiently use the chronograph with the rattrapante function after 2 days and a very large date in a window of 5.20 x 2.80 mm provides an increased readability.

For each of the 3 versions, a dial of a different colour:

-    For the Platinum model, a blue-mauve colour silver guilloche dial with appliques numerals in matte white Gold, 2 Silver chronograph counters and matte rhodied hands.

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-    For the red Gold model, a silver guilloche dial covered with Ruthenium and appliques numerals in matte red Gold, 2 Silver chronograph counters and matte 5N Golden hands.

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-    For the Titanium model, a dial in Aluminum alloy of anthracite colour with appliques numerals with Superluminova, 2 chronograph counters in engraved sapphire and hands with Superluminova.

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The tachymetric bezel inlaid with ceramic and the new typographic numeral are a reminder of the Only Watch timepiece.

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A rubber overmolded crown with 3 positions:


-    Position 1: winding.
-    Position 2: correction of the very large date.
-    Position 3: time setting.

The pusher are made in the same metal as the case:

-    A pusher at 2h for the chronograph start, stop and back to zero functions.
-    A pusher at 4h for the rattrapante.

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This new calibre 1518 with manual winding, conceived by F.P. Journe, is as usual entirely made in our Manufacture and assembled by one of our watchmakers. F.P. Journe perpetuates the watchmaking tradition and maintains exclusive craftsmanship since every experienced watchmaker performs all the assembly stages from beginning to end, a unique case in the profession.

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Inspired by the Chronograph made for Only Watch, this new movement features a chronograph direct gearing with a rocking pinion avoiding the jump of the hand at the start.

An important development was required to integrate the very large date in a total height of only 6.80 mm, signature of the F.P.Journe brand. The magnificent finishing and decorations of the movement visible through a transparent sapphire back are one of the nume-rous undisputable qualities of the F.P.Journe Haute Horology.

THE CHRONOGRAPH AND THE SPLIT-SECOND FUNCTION
TWO RELATED INVENTIONS

Early days of the chronograph

Talking about the word chronograph, you will probably think of Nicolas-Matthieu Rieussec. And for good reason, since he invented, in 1822, the mechanism for “writing the time”, which derives its name from the Greek chronos and graphô. Yet, summing up the history of the chronograph in this way would deprive you from the rest of this exciting story and the steps that led to the invention of the modern chronograph.

Even before contemplating to measure the time, instruments capable of displaying the time with extreme accuracy and to determine the seconds were needed. Research of astronomers, mathematicians and watchmakers is thus correlated. George Graham (1673-1751) seems to be the first to be interested in a mechanical solution for the division of seconds (theoretically 1/16 of a second) to then measure the duration of a phenomenon. Problems encountered: the device does not display the time and must be set to 0 and stopped manually.

The next step is the display of the independent second: an independent seconds-hand is incorporated on a mechanism displaying the time, by means of an additional gear train that allows displaying the time division(1/5 of a second for 18,000 vibrations per hour) with a start/stop function that does not influence on the watch functioning. While Jean Romilly, Geneva watchmaker settled in Paris presented to the Royal Academy of Sciences a watch with repeater and off-centered seconds in 1758, Jean-Moïse Pouzait proposed in 1776 an independent dead bet second watch.

Scientists for whom measurement of time was associated with many of their experiences, were particularly seeking for precision instruments. Louis Moinet, inspired by the work of astronomers and aware of their needs, offers in 1816 his version of a counter. This invention, which he named “compteur de tierces”, is described in his Traité d’Horlogerie of 1853 (Volume II, p. 430-431). With a seconds-hand showing the 1/60 th, that is a balance wheel beating 216,000 vibrations per hour, we can easily imagine the difficulties associated with this counter: lubrication, premature wear, energy consumption, etc... It should be noted that in this same treaty he doesn’t hesitate to largely quote the works of his peers at the time.

Meanwhile, soldiers sought to give more precision to their shots with these precision instruments. The works signed by Breguet also contain “military counter to count the troops’ pace.” These devices beat 76 times per minute instead of 60 times. We find descriptions thereof starting 1819.

Lighter but just as strategic aspects, especially for bookmakers, led Rieussec to his invention that gave his name to the chronograph, used in horse racing: it included an enamel dial that turned on itself in 1 minute. On this enamel dial was painted a scale of seconds stringing under a system that placed a drop of ink when a button outside the box was operated. This watch was writing the time, thus the name derived from the Greek “Chronos”- the time and “Graphô” - to write that gave the name used today “chronograph”, that should not be confused with the chro-nometer, qualifying a precision timepiece.

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The system was improved, including by the watchmaker Frédéric-Louis Fatton, student of Abraham-Louis Breguet. His watch had a fixed dial and its seconds-hand had a small ink tank. This hand was fitted with a device connected to a button located outside the housing. By pressing this button, the hand deposited a fine drop of ink on the dial.

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The report of the exhibition of French industry products of 1823 thus speaks about the work of Breguet and Rieussec. The latter received a bronze medal for his work.

As to the modern chronograph, Adolphe Nicole, from Vallée de Joux but practicing in London under the trade name Nicole & Capt, invented in 1862 the system that allowed rewinding the seconds-hand to its initial position after stopping it. It fitted his zero-reset mechanism with a heart-piece, a component still used nowadays.

Complication particularly sought for its functionality, the chronograph has continued to modernize up to our days. Extremely complex to implement, it requires great precision in its construction in order to provide an accurate reading of the time. Today, François Paul Journe is part of the lineage of the great watchmakers of the 18th century and contributes to progress with the launch single-button split-second chronograph.

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The split-second function for a faithful reading of an interval

For a more precise and comfortable reading of these precision instruments, it quickly became essential to stop the hand showing the intervals.

In 1827, Louis-Frédéric Perrelet innovates with a two seconds-hands watch. One of the hands could be stopped at will and by a second press on the same button, the hand was catching up the first hand that had continued its functioning.

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Around 1831 Joseph-Thaddeus Winnerl invented a system of “split-second” that was stopping the seconds-hand, then this hand could catch its stop time, provided that it didn’t exceed 30 seconds. The characteristic of this first system called “nib” and of the second system that he would invent later, this time fitted with two overlapping seconds-hands, is that they are based on the seconds wheel and not on the chronograph’s mech-anism.

We shall also refer to the works of Henri Robert, author of various articles of the Modern Encyclopedia, reported by the Société d’Encouragement, in 1833, with the precise description of a “chronometric counter and travel alarm clock” whose characteristic is the split-second mechanism in a register at 12 o’clock (see the picture).

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It was around 1880 that the split-second function appeared in its current form. While there have been many chronographs manufacturers begining with this period, the names related to the flyback hand are much fewer. And when talking about the flyback hand, we automatically think of the most complicated parts, such as, for example “La Merveilleuse" of Ami Lecoultre, produced in collaboration with Louis-Elysée Piguet, who received the bronze medal at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1878.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: LineSport

Model : Chronomètre Monopoussoir RATTRAPANTE

Movement
Exclusive F.P.Journe Calibre 1518
- in 18 K rose Gold for the Platinum PT 950 or 18 K red Gold models
- in Aluminium alloy for the Titanium grade 5 model Mechanical with manual winding
38 turns of crown
Dimensions of the Movement
Overall diameter: 33.60 mm
Casing-up diameter: 33.20 mm
Overall height: 6.80 mm
Height of hands: 2.20 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20 mm
Balance
In-line lever escapement, 15-tooth escape wheel
Chronometric with four adjustable inertia weights
Anachron balance spring
Mobile stud holders
Free-sprung balance
Nivatronic laser-welded to collet
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21,600 v/h (3Hz)
Inertia: 10.10 mg*cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 12 h flat: > 300° / 12 h vertical: > 260°
Number of Parts
Movement without dial: 285
Cased up with strap: 562
Jewel: 29
Main Characteristics
Crown rubber overmolded with 3 positions
Position 1: winding
Position 2: correction of the date
Position 3: time setting
Pusher chronograph to start, stop and back to zero at 2h Pusher split-second at 4h
Autonomy
Over 80 hours without the chronograph
Indications
Central hours and minutes
Register 60 seconds at 9h
Register 30 minutes jumping chronograph at 3h
Very large date at 6h
Finishing
Circular stripes on the bridges, circular graining on the baseplate,
polished screw heads with chamfered slots, pegs with polished rounded ends, straight-grained steel work
Case
Diameter 44 mm
Total height 12.10 mm
  • Platinum PT 950
  • 18k Red Gold
  • Titanium Grade 5, with rubber inserts
Dial
  • Platinum model
Silver guilloche blue-mauve colour, rhodied Gold appliqué numerals, two Silver chronograph counter and rhodied hands.
  • 18K red Gold model
Silver guilloche covered with Ruthenium, mat red Gold appliqué numerals, two Silver chronograph counters and 5N golden hands
  • Titanium model
Aluminium anthracite colour, appliqué numerals with Superluminova, two transparent sapphire engraved chronograph counters, hands with Superluminova
Bracelet
Platinum PT 950, 18 K red Gold or Titanium grade 5, with rubber inserts


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Press release - 2018
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com

Friday, March 30, 2018

VICTORINOX – INOX Mechanical Steel 43


VICTORINOX I.N.O.X. Mechanical Stainless Steel 43 mm

RESILIENT, MODERN, TIME-RELEVANT

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FINALLY I.N.O.X. MECHANICAL HAS LANDED

Since the launch of the first I.N.O.X. in 2014, its mechanical version has been eagerly anticipated. This exceptional collection needed a robust calibre addition. Due to the delicate nature of automatic movements, several R&D were necessary to bring this model into life.

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At first sight, nothing distinguishes the quartz model from its mechanical version, with identical style, proportions and features, three hands and date. However a transparent back case show the mechanism behind it.

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The guilloche dial, in the style of the Swiss officer’s Knife is what makes the design stand out. I.N.O.X. signature bezel has been coated to make it even more resistant to wear and tear keeping the shine intact for longer.

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Expected novelties, unexpected innovation with a unique, first of its kind, wooden strap strong and durable crafted onto a leather base, audacity in pushing the boundaries.

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This perfect innovation that fits well with Victorinox’s environmental commitments.

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TECHNICAL FEATURES

Model: I.N.O.X. MECHANICAL Steel

Ref: 241834, 241835 - Blue Dial
Ref: 241836, 241837 - Black Dial

SWISS MADE

MOVEMENT
Calibre ETA 2824-2 Swiss-made automatic movement
Mechanical, self-winding, date at 3 o’clock.
25 bearing jewels
28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
Seconds stop function
Central seconds hand
CASE
Diameter: Ø 43 mm
Stainless steel case (316L) with anti-scratch treatment on the bezel
Scratch-resistant, triple-coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 200 m (20 ATM / 660 ft)
Screw-in case back
Protected screw-down crown
DIAL
Guilloche dial
Super-LumiNova® on hands and indexes
Stamped dial with special “Swiss Army Officer’s knife” inspired guilloché
Date calendar at 4:30
STRAP
Brushed & polished stainless steel bracelet (316L)
Or genuine wood strap

AVAILABLE
October 2018

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Press Release - 2018
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www.Victorinox.com

Franck Muller – Vanguard™ Tourbillon Minute Repeater


















Franck MullerVanguard™ Tourbillon Minute Repeater

Baselworld 2018

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The New Vanguard™ 

Tourbillon Minute Repeater

Confirming its reputation of Master of Complications, Franck Muller has produced an extraordinary openworked minute repeater. The combination of Haute Horlogerie craftsmanship and high expertise allowed Franck Muller to manufacture this incredibly complicated movement. A magical complication to reflect the savoir-faire and creativity of Franck Muller.

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Powered by a manual mechanical movement of 389 components and 33 jewels that is wholly designed in-house, the timepiece features an impressive power reserve of 60 hours. Furthermore, the Vanguard Tourbillon Minute Repeater features a large watch case built to accommodate the space needed by the complex movement.

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The Minute Repeater mechanism can be activated at will by means of a slide-bottom situated at 8 o’clock. The hammers chime two gongs, sounding the hours, quarters and minutes.

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This newly skeletonized timepiece showcases the incredible Franck Muller savoir-faire in one of the most complex feats of watchmaking. It embodies the fantastic match between innovation, modern design and the respect of the Haute Horlogerie traditions.

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Technical details

Model: VANGUARD™ Tourbillon Minute Repeater Gold
Case 
White Gold 18 carat
Width 46 mm x Length 55.90 mm x Height 13.70 mm
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Movement 
Manual mechanical movement
Caliber FM-3300 VRS
36.5 тт, height: 6.91 mm
389 components
33 jewels
60 hours of power reserve
18’000 vibrations/hour
Hand chamfered and lacquered
Dial
Skeleton
Open-face dial
Functions Minute repeater
Hours, minutes and seconds at 6 o’clock with the tourbillon
Winding crown in 2 positions
Strap 
Alligator strap with deployant buckle

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Thursday, March 29, 2018

EBERHARD & CO. – SCAFOGRAF GMT - The BLACK Sheep Edition


EBERHARD & CO.SCAFOGRAF GMT "The BLACK Sheep" Limited Edition

SCAFOGRAF 
BLACK SHEEP, DIFFERENT BY NATURE

After the success of the Scafograf 300, first presented in 2016 and winner of the ‘Sports Watch Prize’ at the prestigious Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie, followed by last year’s GMT version, Eberhard & Co. has chosen to make the ‘Scafograf’ even more captivating and exclusive with a special limited edition, the name of which conveys all the unconventional spirit of the new model: THE BLACK SHEEP.

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Dedicated to the gentleman who loves to express his personality and remain ever-faithful to his values, with all the determination of one who knows they are different by nature and shares that pinch of irreverence which is the key to their charm. When being a ‘black sheep’ means having tons of charisma and personality.

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The Scafograf Black Sheep will be made in 500 totally-black-look specimens animated by an automatic movement with a triple time zone function. Black dominates, starting from the 43mm steel case with its DLC® treatment, which provides this model with a decidedly sporting allure.

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The dial and two-way rotating bezel with ceramic insert and luminescent indices are also in black. The screwed case back is uniquely customised, featuring a stylised hemisphere with time zones and the engraved name of the model. The orange of the GMT hand and GMT lettering stand out proudly against the dial.

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100 metres water resistance, the Scafograf Black Sheep comes with a rubber integrated strap, in black, of course, personalized with the ‘E’ coat of arms, the emblem of the Maison.

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Technical features

Reference:  41040 - Limited edition of 500 pieces

Movement
Calibre EB.ETA 2893 with soigné finishing
Mechanical, automatic winding, date at 3 o’clock.
Central seconds hand, GMT hand
Case
In steel, with black DLC® treatment
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 11,80 mm
Caseback:  in steel, crewed, personalised with an engraved hemisphere with time zones and the name of the model
Bezel:  in steel, DLC®-treated, with a black ceramic insert, rotating,
bidirectional with luminescent mark at 12 o’clock. 24h scale
Water-resistant:  100 m
Crown:  in steel, DLC®-treated , screw-in, water-resistant, personalised with the “E” in relief
Glass: sapphire, convex, with an anti-reflective treatment on the inner surface
Dial
Black, galbé, with curved, applied indices, luminescent
Hands:  GMT hand in orange, with luminescence.
Hours and minutes hands,“baton-type”, squelettes, luminescent.
Central seconds hand, luminescent.
Strap & Bracelet
   - Integrated rubber strap, in black colour, personalised with the “E”shield, emblem of the Maison. The inside is characterised by small shields that allow good transpiration.
Buckle personalised E&C. Optional: deployment clasp Déclic® (Patented)
   - Chassis® steel bracelebt, DLC®-treated.
Deployment clasp Déclic® (Patented) DLC®-treated.


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Wednesday, March 28, 2018

D. CANDAUX – 1740 - Half Hunter Flying Tourbillon



















D. CANDAUX1740 - Half Hunter Flying Tourbillon Titanium 43 mm Edition

The reinterpretation of a classic

The new 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon by the independent watchmaker David Candaux for Baselworld 2018, rep-resents his contemporary reinterpretation of the classic half-hunter pocketwatch form as it was used in the stressful, active environments found on land and the seven seas.


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David’s particular inspiration were the forms found on an-tique captain’s watches, as well as many seafaring instruments such as compasses, wherein the viewing area, par-tially encased in metal, only allowed port-holes for viewing the required indications. In this manner, the half hunter form provided excellent protection of the dial glass, hands and movement from shocks under extreme conditions, anywhere they might be experienced.

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This new tourbillon creation by David Candaux taps into the historical period when horology was still perceived as a major science, and watchmaking fell under the realm of mathematics, philosophy and astronomy. This was an era when the quest for accurate timekeeping occupied the minds of the greatest inventors of European civilization. The 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon pays homage to these precision instruments of the past, timepieces that were in use by the explorers and master mariners of the 18th and 19th centuries. A novelty of the time, these highly accurate timepieces allowed ship’s captains to literally and physically carry the time of their departure harbor with them, and therefore calculate the longitude of their location at sea easily without requiring star-gazing, ephemerides, astro-nomical tables and several hours of navigational calculations.

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With this history at hand, the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon goes a step further, representing a more radical stylistic interpretation and technical advancement in comparison to the classic historical half- hunter concept; simultane-ously it represents a more futuristic development to the first models of the present 1740 collection.

NEW VISUAL IMPULSES

The first visual aspect one notices is the incredibly finely executed, complex decoration of the front face of the watchcase. It has been given a handmade, engine-turned guilloche pattern named Pointe du Risoux that deliber-ately recalls the patterns of the local Risoux fir tree forest that surrounds the Candaux atelier as seen from the air.

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Created as a contemporary approach to antique guilloche traditions, this pattern was not only meant to be visually inspirational; it was also deliberately designed to invite the user to sensually engage with its complex surface, add-ing another level of interaction between the timepiece and its owner. With a subtle and completely contemporary touch, this guilloche patterned front cover has been created in high palladium content 18K white gold. This precious metal is one of David’s favorites due to its subtle glow, and subdued, introverted elegance.


ASYMMETRICAL DISPLAY

Set into this magnificently adorned front cover of guilloche finished 18K white gold, the timekeeping indications and open view of the tourbillon have been placed under two tiny spherical, convex shaped portholes of specially machined sapphire glass, with the power reserve situated under a small, separate arch of sapphire glass at the top edge of the case front.

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The hours and minutes are read on a spherical, convex micro-dial under the rightmost sapphire dome with its two curving hands of hand finished and blued steel that precisely follow the curving dial’s exact form. The fully visible, The fully visible, twice-inclined flying tourbillon is situated under the sapphire dome on the left, providing running seconds via a blued index placed on the edge of the tourbillon cage.

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The mesmerizing beauty of the fully visible, twice-inclined flying tourbillon is situated under the sapphire dome on the left, providing running seconds via a blued index placed on the edge of the tourbillon cage. The mesmerizing beauty of the fully visible, patented and tilted tourbillon, echoes the display of the three dimensional hours and minutes window.

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It perfectly and harmo-niously balances the symmetry of the front, directly evoking the half hunter timepieces and marine compasses of previous centuries. In addition to these details, the entire front of the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon has been gently and almost imperceptibly inclined; standing slightly higher in the case at the 12 o’clock position and lower towards 6 o’clock.

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This unusually positioned bezel comfortably enhances reading the time, thus providing an optimized field of view for the user. Like the original 1740 model, the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon is also fitted at 6 o’clock with the unique retractable crown, for which David Candaux has received two patents.

MOVEMENT DETAILS

THE DAVID CANDAUX INCLINED BI-PLAN TOURBILLON

The 60-seconds flying tourbillon has been designed using a ceramic ball bearing inclined at 3 degrees from the hor-izontal. Within another construction inside the tourbillon’s grade-5 titanium cage, the balance has been placed in a position with another 30 degrees inclination, hence the name ‘bi-plan’ flying tourbillon.

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The result provides a definitive improvement on the standard, horizontally orientated tourbillon construction found in wristwatches today. The original tourbillon design, as used in pocketwatches, was conceived for dealing with the forces of gravity from mainly vertical positions in breast pockets.

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The situation today is totally different: as used in wristwatches, the tourbillon must adjust to the angles and movements of our contemporary lifestyle and daily life, as experienced on the human wrist and all of its tilted or angular positions - whilst sitting, reading, arms on the desk whilst behind the computer, or walking and running.

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David Candaux’s bi-plan flying tourbillon was created in such a way as to ensure a continual change in position of the cage and of the regulating organ in relation to these types of wrist positions people normally use in daily life, thus optimising its capacity to compensate the influence of gravity that could affect chronometric results. Following the best practices possible, the curve of the spiral has been given a Breguet overcoil ending in a Phillips terminal curve, thus optimizing the balance spring’s poise and functionality, with a resultant lower friction on the balance staff in every vertical position.

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The spiral extremity of the spring is maintained by a stud specially developed for this time-piece in order to guarantee reliable, long-term fixation. Details like these ensure the optimal long-term functioning of the movement and guarantee the quality of chronometric results.


MOVEMENT AND CASE IN GRADE-5 TITANIUM

With a view towards long-term perfection and durability, this metal is one of David’s favorites due to its superla-tive, high strength/hardness ratio, and its immutable characteristics combined with lightness. The extreme tensile strength of titanium makes all the traditional milling process as well as hand finishing operations for the case and movement parts such as polishing, satin-finishing, brushing and anglage much more time consuming, costly and dif-ficult to achieve.

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Furthermore, the milling operations to create these parts must be executed using special multi-axis machines fitted with fire extinguishers, since the titanium debris created during the cutting process can become flammable.

BALANCE

The aerodynamically designed balance wheel in beryllium copper (CuBe2), is fitted with variable inertia adjustment thanks to four 18K gold screws and a load screw also in beryllium copper, which can be adjusted by the watchmaker during assembly and timing control. The modification of the balance wheel’s inertia in this manner allows the watch-maker to speed up or slow down the balance wheel’s beat, and thus regulate the timepiece’s accurate running, as well as fixate its ideal parameters for long-term stability.

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The use of variable inertia adjustment for the balance eliminates the need for a moveable index to adjust the balance spring, which can, under certain conditions, alter its position after the watch receives a shock or impact.

INCLINED CALIBER CONSTRUCTION

The 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon caliber has been entirely designed in house by David Candaux - a rare occurrence in contemporary Swiss watchmaking. This innovative movement, protected by several patents, answers mechanically to the philosophy behind the 1740 collection with its asymmetrical approach to aesthetics and the art of chronome-try. No detail has been spared exacting scrutiny. For example, the technical imperatives linked to the secret, retract-able crown, mean that the entire gear train and bridges have been inclined at 3 degrees in relation to the horizontal in order to accommodate it.

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This reinterpretation of the standard principles of movement construction has impact on the position of the bridges in relation to each other. Due to this variation, each of these bridges is inclined at 3 degrees. Thus, the view of the movement’s interior surface is no longer uniformly horizontal, but shows a cascading effect. As a result, this innovative constructional feature has the added benefit of accentuating the finishing of all the individual movement parts, amplifying each ray of light reflecting off its surface.

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Furthermore, these sparkling reflections also highlight the Côtes du Solliat, a new type of decoration elaborated by David Candaux. Due to their notable width, and therefore demanding to create, each single band mastered by skilful hands gives the subtle impression of being composed of three separate bands.

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All the 23 inner angles and edges of the tourbillon movement are hand finished with traditionally executed anglage, a typical trademark of the Vallée du Joux’s traditional watchmaking culture, thus making the perfect execution of the movement all the more difficult to achieve.


ESCAPEMENT

The escapement has also been fully developed and designed by David Candaux. His respect for history led him to use the old escapement centerings from the Vallée de Joux tradition. This type of centering is based on non-equidis-tant points of axial reference, unlike those developed for contemporary or industrially produced escapements that are mainly based on equidistant points of reference.

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Such a non-equidistant geometry improves escapement effi-ciency and imparts a refined, aesthetic and practical shape to the anchor’s pallet jewels. The different entrance and exit degrees of lift imparted by this system also guarantee the flow of optimal impulse energy to the balance wheel. Last but not least, a new, optimized geometry for the escapement wheel teeth also improve the global efficiency of the escapement mechanism.


WHEELS AND PINIONS

In total, the movement of the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon comprises 287 individual components, each of which is finished respecting the most demanding standards of traditional high-end watchmaking.

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In this way, the wheels comply with the highest quality requirements and are chamfered, beveled and circular-grained on both sides. As for the pinions, they are polished on a wooden grinding wheel and given a groove just behind the pivot. This historical technique ensures that the lubricating oil remains in place.

ENGRAVED TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

In order to ensure the long-term continuity of the movement in the centuries to come, all the technical specifica-tions required to restore or service the calibre have been micro-engraved on the flank of the grade-5 titanium base-plate for future generations.

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The specifications of the regulating organ, its CGS number (height of the blade of the balance-spring), its inertia, the lift angle and the quality indicator can be found engraved in relief on the fixed second wheel. All these inscriptions are hand engraved and require more than 150 hours to complete.

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It is clear that the 1740 Half Hunter Tourbillon represents a uniquely personal vision of contemporary haute hor-logerie by David Candaux, which combines both patrimony and creativity.

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The result is a horological state-of-the-art, ultimate model of 21st century mechanical watchmaking. These are timepieces that retain all of the quality and unique character of the traditional watchmaking arts as practiced in the Vallée du Joux by past generations, created in the present, and destined for the future.

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TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

MOVEMENT
Inclined, manual-winding tourbillon movement
Dimensions: 16 ¼ lignes (diameter 35 mm x 6.20 mm high)
Materials: Grade 5 titanium plate and bridges. Untreated titanium and blued titanium for the tourbillon cage
Going train, wheels and bridges inclined at 3 degrees to the horizontal (patent-pending design).
Double winding barrel with 55 hours power reserve
Stainless steel, mirror-polished power reserve bridge
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Number of jewels: 47, with polished sinks and gold chatons
Number of parts: 287
Finest traditional watchmaking craft with hand-made chamfering and anglage,
hand-polishing, flanks brushing and unique Côtes du Solliat effect

ESCAPEMENT Bi-plan tourbillon
  • Single-axis, titanium bi-plan flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock: with cage inclined 3 degrees in relation to the horizontal, balance inclined at 30 degrees in relation to the cage
  • Variable inertia balance
  • Breguet overcoil spring with Philips terminal curve
  • Cascade effect-profiled titanium movement
  • Constant energy supply by double barrel
  • Power reserve indication by conic camshaft system
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FUNCTIONS AND INDICATORS
  • Hours and minutes on a separate, domed counter
  • Seconds hand via tourbillon cage at 9 o’clock
  • Bi-plan tourbillon
  • Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
ENERGY SUPPLY
-    Roughly 55 hours.
-    Chronometry: stops automatically when there is insufficient energy.
-    Indication by camshaft system (patent-pending).
CROWN
Secret and retractable, unlocking via pressure
3 positions: neutral, reset, and winding 31 parts.
FRONT BEZEL, WATCH FACE
-    Semi-spherical hours and minutes dials
-    18K high palladium content white gold indexes chamfered and polished by hand
-    Grade 5 titanium decorated with engine-turned Pointe du Risoux
 HANDS
-    Hours: conical and curved, dagger-shaped, in natural steel, chamfered, polished and blued by hand
-    Minutes: conical and curved, dagger-shaped, in natural steel, chamfered, polished and blued by hand
-    Central seconds: in flame-blued 18K white gold, chamfered and polished by hand
-    Power reserve: dagger-shaped, in 18K white gold, chamfered and polished by hand
 CASE
-    Hours and minutes: “syringe” shape, made of steel, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued.
-    Central second: made of steel, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued.
-    Power supply: inverted “syringe” shape, shaped and polished by hand, flame-blued.
CASE
-    Asymmetric, bassinet-shaped
-    Grade-5 titanium
-    Diameter: 43 mm
-    Total thickness: 12.60 mm
-    2 semi-spherical sapphire windows and 1 anti-reflective glass; sapphire case back
-    Caseback with clipped olivette at 6 o’clock
-    Fine satin-finishing and hand executed polishing
WATERPROOFING

-    Guaranteed water resisitant to 30 meters
WATCH-STRAP
-    Made of large scale alligator leather
-    Entirely hand-made
BUCKLE
-    Pin buckle
-    In stainless steel 316L and titanium


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Press Release - 2018
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D. CANDAUX
Rue Du Village 24
CH-1347 Le Solliat
Switzerland
Telephone Number +41 79 425 85 85
Email Address info@dcandaux.ch
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