Daniel Roth – Tourbillon Platinum Edition 2025
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The name Daniel Roth is
synonymous with traditional watchmaking and discreet excellence. The
second golden age of this storied brand continues with the Tourbillon
Platinum, the latest expression of the brand's mantra: La Montre Objet d'Art.
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Directly
inspired by the iconic
Tourbillon reference
2187/C187 of
1988, the
Tourbillon Platinum is a tribute to
Daniel Roth's favorite complication
and dedication to the timeless ideals of
haute horlogerie.
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The
revival of
Daniel Roth began in
2023, starting with
Mr. Roth's favored
complications, the Tourbillon and the Extra Plat. Both models debuted
with a
20-piece souscription series in yellow gold
dressed in
Clou de Paris guilloché, followed by regular production models in rose gold with pinstripe
guilloché.
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Both
the Tourbillon and the Extra Plat share the same design codes and
horological principles, with the slightly refined double-ellipse case
design and in-house manufacture calibres. The
DR001 found in the
Tourbillon and the
DR002 that powers the Extra Plat are shape movements
finished to the highest standards, developed exclusively for
Daniel
Roth by
Michel Navas and
Enrico Barbasini, Master Watchmakers and the
founders of
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
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Continuing
the heritage established by the pair in gold, the Tourbillon Platinum
elevates the collection with a more contemporary aesthetic that opens a
new chapter for Daniel Roth.
Elevating an icon
Throughout history, watchmakers have often used platinum to dignify
their most exceptional creations. Used selectively during the first
golden age of the brand, platinum has, until now, been absent from the
latest chapter in the history of Daniel Roth. The Tourbillon Platinum
heralds the return of this noble metal, beloved by collectors for its
extraordinary heft and rarity.
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Beyond its exceptional rarity, platinum is harder to work with than gold. Specifically, the process for machining platinum components requires special tooling and more frequent intervention by the machinist. As a result, a platinum case can take up to three times as long to make as a case in 18k gold.
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“Platinum is a heavyweight material in every sense. For decades, platinum has instilled both love and fear in the hearts of watchmakers,” explains Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. “It is often reserved for special creations, in part because it is so much more difficult to work with than gold.”
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“Naturally, the esteemed reputation of platinum makes it irresistible to a brand like Daniel Roth,” continues Matthieu Hegi. “When it came time to animate the Tourbillon in a white metal, one thing was certain; it had to be platinum.”
True to the design and spirit of the C187, the Tourbillon Platinum adopts the double-ellipse shape, a foundational element of the Daniel Roth aesthetic. Originally conceived by Mr. Roth himself in 1988, the unusual shape, combining both square and circular elements, is the ideal showcase for the large tourbillon. Innovative at launch, the double-ellipse has stood the test of time and is one of just a handful of contemporary case designs that have achieved iconic status.
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All
of the critical details of the original double-ellipse case have been
faithfully recreated, and this historical fidelity is more than skin
deep. In a nod to the
1988 original, the longest of the seconds hand's
three arms passes through a discrete channel on the inside of the case; a
private detail that provides continuity from past to present.
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But
the
Tourbillon Platinum's double-ellipse case is more than just a
carbon copy of the original. For the revival of
Daniel Roth, the
signature case enjoys subtle refinements, while being largely
indistinguishable from the original. The lugs, still meticulously
hand-soldered to the case middle, now arch downward to improve
ergonomics on the wrist.
A
living tribute to the pioneering spirit that guides
Daniel Roth, the
case profile of the
Tourbillon Platinum is slightly slimmer than that of
the original
C187, thanks to the in-house manufacture calibre
DR001.
An emblematic palette
The dial of the Tourbillon Platinum is
similarly precious, made of solid white gold and finished in an
anthracite hue. This material provides the ultimate canvas for Daniel
Roth's linear guilloche, painstakingly applied by hand using a straight-line engine.
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Eminently
traditional in every respect, the chapter ring for the hours and
minutes is crafted from
925 sterling silver, as are the tri-sectioned
seconds scale and the iconic 'moustache' on either side that bear
the
Daniel Roth brand name and individual watch number.
Each one of these elements is crafted separately, their borders fluted with filet sauté guillochage using a traditional hand-operated rose engine. The serpentine form of the 'moustache' proved particularly challenging for the guillocheurs, and required the development of a bespoke tool fitted to the rose engine.
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All
components of the dial have been produced entirely in-house at
La
Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which now has a fully-equipped
guillochage workshop with antique engine-turning machines that have been entirely restored to perfect functionality.
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These
time-honored techniques put a natural limit on production. A single
dial for the
Tourbillon Platinum can take up to three days to complete,
line by line by a single
Maître Guillocheur, with the smallest mistake at any point along the way requiring the dial to be discarded.
The tourbillon calibre DR001: the beating heart of Daniel Roth
The modern-day renaissance of Daniel Roth began in 2023 with the
introduction of the DR001, a new shape movement developed specifically
for the brand's signature double-ellipse case.
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The
tourbillon carries special significance for
Daniel Roth. It was none
other than
Mr. Roth himself, during his time at
Breguet, who created the
brand's first-ever tourbillon wristwatch.
Mr. Roth returned to the
tourbillon for the launch of his own brand, being among the first
independent watchmakers to accomplish such a feat.
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In
keeping with the philosophy of
Daniel Roth, each of the
DR001's
206
components are finished by hand; even the parts hidden beneath the dial
are decorated as if on display. Though these components remain unseen
outside the manufacture, the expert craftsmanship reveals itself to the
connoisseur's discerning touch during winding and setting.
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“As long-time friends of Daniel, we knew his expectations for the DR001 would be high. Both Enrico and myself share his philosophy and passion for tradition and elegance, and were able to leverage the unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to create a tourbillon worthy of the brand's second act,” says Michel Navas.
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“Daniel was an inspirational figure for Michel and myself, so it was important to both of us to respect the brand's original emphasis on both architecture and finissage,” adds Enrico Barbasini. “Daniel was a true pioneer of independent watchmaking, so it wouldn't be enough for us to simply recreate the past. Our vision for DANIEL ROTH is to remain true to the brand's history while elevating the subtle details.”
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Unlike the Tourbillon Souscription, which featured a solid case back, the DR001 movement inside the Tourbillon Platinum can be admired through a sapphire crystal. This window into the heart of the Tourbillon Platinum reveals all the hallmarks of traditional haute horlogerie, including black-polished steel, rounded anglage, perlage, and particularly thin Côtes de Genève that echoes the guillochage en ligne dial.
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The DR001 is further elevated by the presence of three polished gold chatons that secure the jewels in the gear train. Aficionados of fine watchmaking will appreciate that while some of these magnificent details are put on display, others remain hidden, waiting to be discovered by future generations of watchmakers.
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The
technical characteristics of the
DR001 demonstrate the manufacture's
savoir-faire, and represent an improvement over the original in several
respects. The power reserve has been increased to
80 hours, while at the
same time the movement's thickness has been reduced to provide a more
elegant fit on the wrist.
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The
Tourbillon Platinum completes the
Daniel Roth tourbillon collection
with a very exclusive edition that introduces a contrasting anthracite
grey dial. The commanding presence of the platinum case is yet another
bridge to the brand's early history, while the refined double-ellipse
case represents a vision for the future.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model: Tourbillon Platinum Edition
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Reference DAAG01A1
CaseMaterial Platinum
Dimensions 38,6 x 35,5mm
Thickness 9,2mm
Water resistance 30mDial
Dial: White gold base with Pinstripes guilloché
White gold base with anthracite finish and pinstripe hand-
guilloché pattern
Applied sterling silver hours and minutes disc, triple seconds track and "moustache" with fluted hand-guilloché borders
Black Roman hour numerals and hands, black Arabic numerals on triple 20-second tracks
Three black hands to indicate the seconds on the 1-minute tourbillon
Sterling silver
925 minute track
Black decalque font
Hands: Stainless steel black coating
MovementManufacture manual winding movement developed and assembled by
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton Calibre DR001: Complication
Tourbillon 1-minute
Power reserve 80 hrs
Frequency -
3 hZ (21,600 vph) Dimensions 31 x 28mm
Thickness 4,6mm
Components -
206 Jewels -
19StrapBrown calfskin leather
Lug width -
20mm
🔰Limited Edition ✅ Only 20 Pieces 🔴 Price 185,000 CHF / € 190.450 (Excl. Taxes) 💰
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