Sunday, March 31, 2019

Bell & Ross – BR03-92 DIVER BLACK MATTE Ceramic














Bell & RossINSTRUMENTS BR03-92 DIVER BLACK MATTE Ceramic Automatic - 2019

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A WATCH FOR PROFESSIONALS

The watchmaking brand Bell & Ross – the ultimate reference in the world of professional aviation watches – has defied all codes by designing an icon inspired by the clocks in the cockpit of an airplane: a circle within a square.

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WATCHES PERFECTLY TAILORED 
TO THEIR ENVIRONMENT

When one explores the ocean, when the pressure rises as one navigates its depths, when an instrument’s readability is a mat-ter of survival, Bell & Ross’ diving watches offer a professional, reliable and rugged solution to an environment that is as fasci-nating as it is dangerous.

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Each Bell & Ross watch is designed to match its specific envi-ronment. For divers, Bell & Ross has developed tools that are perfectly suited for underwater exploration.

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They are capable of effectively assisting divers under all circumstances. Legible, functional, accurate, robust and reliable, they meet the specific demands of professionals on the job.

CUTTING-EDGE TOOLS

Bell & Ross’ marine expertise is the result of the collective expe-rience and the knowledge of its designers, master watchmakers and professional users.

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Bell & Ross has a strong history of manufacturing watches for the marine realm. The HYDROMAX®, designed in 1997, holds one of the most impressive records for water-resistance to 11,100 meters. In 2002 the two-counter DIVER 300 Chronograph was developed, followed by the BR02 range that was launched in 2007.

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In 2017 Bell & Ross made a strong impression in the diving world with its BR03-92 Diver that boasts the iconic BR square and functional lines. It reaffirms the brand’s ability to produce professional underwater instruments.

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The BR03-92 square diving watch has become a collection in its own right and now expands to include two new versions, the BR03-92 Diver Black Matte and the BR03-92 Diver Green Bronze.

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THE ISO 6425 STANDARD:
SAFETY FIRST

Not every watch can be an «underwater watch». Official regulations set out very precise criteria defining a true diving watch.

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The ISO 6425 standard lists a great number of obligatory technical pa-rameters.

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Those include water-resistance to a minimum depth of 100 meters; the presence of a unidirectional rotating bezel with a graduated minutes scale, an operation indicator and lumines-cent markers; legibility in the dark; anti-shock and anti-magnetic protection.


INTRODUCING BLACK CERAMIC INTO 
THE DIVER COLLECTION

This new model in the BR03 DIVER collection, clad in its ceramic uniform, once again underlines the brand’s avant-garde vision.

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DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM 
THE MILITARY STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGIES

The matte black ceramic is perfectly in tune with the aeronauti-cal codes so crucial to the Bell & Ross philosophy. In the world of aeronautics, and especially space, ceramic is predominantly used in manufacturing parts that are subjected to very high temperatures, acid attacks, corrosion and erosion. As a result, it is found in products such as thermal shields and aerospace rocket’s noses.

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As part of its on-going quest for excellence, Bell & Ross has reworked the high-tech ceramic and developed a special man-ufacturing process in its workshops.

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It enhances the intrinsic qualities of this material, which is virtually scratch-proof, pleas-ant to wear, soft to the touch and thermo-regulated, instantly reaching body temperature when worn. Almost as tough as a diamond, the high-tech ceramic developed by Bell & Ross is incredibly hardwearing, non-deformable, lighter than steel and hypoallergenic.


A NEW TOOL FOR PURISTS

Reminiscent of the antireflective finish used on air-craft instrument panels, the matte black ceramic is perfectly in tune with the aeronautical codes so fundamental to Bell & Ross. The sober design, black dial, large white numerals, shape of the hands and photoluminescent coating allow immediate reading of the time, in broad daylight as well in darkness.

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This new ceramic model reaffirms the brand’s func-tional and utilitarian approach and emphasizes its pioneering vision. By introducing a high-tech ma-terial in its professional underwater instruments, Bell & Ross has created a new must-have tool-watch, and reinterprets the original values of the iconic BR 01.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: INSTRUMENTS

Model: BR 03-92 DIVER BLACK MATTE Ceramic

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Ref:  BR0392-D-BL-CE/SRB

Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement:
Calibre BR-CAL.302
Functions
hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Case
42 mm diameter
Matt black ceramic
Unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with 60-minute scale. 
Dial
Black.
Metal applique skeleton Super-LumiNova®-filled numerals and indices.
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 300 m (ISO 6425 standard )
Strap
Woven Black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.
Buckle:
Pin. Black PVD* coated steel.

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Press Release - 2019
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www.facebook.com - Bell Ross
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www.Bell&Ross.com

Saturday, March 30, 2019

Patek Philippe – Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time Platinum


Patek PhilippeGRAND COMPLICATIONS Alarm Travel Time Platinum - Ref. 5520P-001

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The quintessential timepiece for frequent travelers

Patek Philippe is unveiling a new self-winding grand complication that adds a 24-hour alarm to its exclusive Travel Time display with two time zones; the alarm signal is struck by a hammer on a classic gong. To achieve this, the manufacture created a totally new integrated movement. Four patent applications were filed for the alarm mechanism. It is the result of five years of development work. The new caliber is presented in an elegant platinum case that reflects the Pilot Travel Time design.

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For 180 years, Patek Philippe has been upholding the finest principles of horological artistry, emphasizing performance, reliability, and functionality. With its creations, the manufacture spares no effort to deliver maximum complexity in the smallest possible diameter and height. It also stresses simple and safe operability of each complication, no matter how elaborate it might be. The new Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time embodies this ambitious objective with aplomb.

A mechanical challenge

When Patek Philippe’s engineers were asked to develop a new alarm mechanism and to combine it with the Travel Time concept’s two-time-zone arrangement, one objective was to make the watch as thin as possible. Thus, they opted for an integrated movement which requires less height than a caliber with an additional module but is also much more difficult to design and produce. They also wanted this new grand complication to be easily operable, intuitively functional, and protected against incorrect handling. In brief: They wanted it to be an intelligent watch. That was the starting point for the new caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, a movement composed of 574 parts and conceived explicitly for this timepiece. This highly complex self-winding movement has a central rotor; it is 31 mm in diameter and 6.6 mm high. Its Gyromax® balance features a Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon.

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The unique properties of this avant-garde material and the patented geometry of the hairspring assure superb reliability and extreme rate accuracy pursuant to the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal that prescribes a maximum tolerance of -3/+2 seconds per day. The movement has a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. A sapphire-crystal display back reveals the refined architecture and exquisite finissage of the movement, including chamfered and polished bridge edges, a 21K gold rotor with new rounded recesses, and the decorative Genevan circular graining pattern.

Extremely convenient: two time zones

Introduced in 1997, the exclusive Travel Time function stands out with its ingenious two-time-zone system. The watch has two hour hands from the center. One is skeletonized and displays home time. The other is filled and indicates the local time at the owner’s current location. These hour hands are paired with two day/night indicators (blue-white) in small round apertures – at 3:30 for home time (HOME) and at 8:30 for local time (LOCAL).

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On the go, all it takes is the actuation of the pushers in the left-hand case flank to adjust the local time clockwise in one-hour increments (pusher at 8 o'clock) or counterclockwise (pusher at 10 o'clock). The intelligent concept of the time-zone mechanism prevents the rate accuracy of the watch from being affected when traveling across time zones.

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To simplify adjustments, the pushers are embossed with the symbols + and –. Before a pusher can be actuated, it must be unlocked with a quarter turn, easily accomplished thanks to the fluting; a quarter turn in the opposite direction locks the pusher again. The watch remains water-resistant even when the pushers are unlocked. The analog date with the subsidiary dial in the lower half of the dial is synchronized with local time. Therefore, it automatically increments or decrements when the local-time hour hand is moved forward or backward past midnight. An interesting detail: When both hour hands indicate the same time zone, the local-time hour hand is superposed on the home-time hour hand.

A 24-hour alarm

To create a useful travel watch, Patek Philippe combined the two time zones with an alarm that like the date is coupled with local time. The alarm function is not a new feature for the manufacture. A wake-up alarm struck on a fifth gong was one of the 33 complications of the famous Calibre 89, for 25 years the world’s most complicated portable timepiece. For Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime launched in 2014, the manufacture presented five strikework functions including an alarm. A global debut, it strikes the preset alarm time with the same tone sequences as those sounded by the minute repeater.

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Now, for the new Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time, the manufacture also chose an alarm concept that features a classic gong. When the alarm is triggered, a hammer (visible through the display back) strikes a gong that circles the movement for up to 40 seconds with a frequency of 2.5 Hz (2.5 strikes per second). This is equivalent to about 90 strikes in total. As in the minute repeaters, a centrifugal governor beneath a bridge with the Calatrava cross assures a regular and sustained striking cadence.

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The alarm mechanism has its own, separate spring barrel that is tensioned with a crown at 4 o'clock. A built-in clutch prevents inadvertent overtightening. A noteworthy detail: the new Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time is Patek Philippe’s first chiming timepiece with a water-resistant case – a big asset for people who travel to countries with moist tropical climates. To assure maximum sound quality, the gong is attached directly to the caseband and not to the movement as usual. This reduces the attenuation of the sound waves by the water-resistant case.

Perfectly logical functionality

Apart from superb acoustic quality on par with Patek Philippe’s finest chiming watches, the new Ref. 5520 also stands out with its remarkable user-friendliness and the logic of its functions for which a patent registration has been filed. The engineers achieved this level of convenience with a double column wheel that controls all functions.

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The alarm function indications are arranged in the upper half of the dial. To assure optimal legibility, the manufacture chose a digital display for the alarm time, a patent-pending solution. The programmed alarm time is displayed in a double aperture beneath the 12 o'clock position. Directly underneath it is the round aperture with the day/night indicator in white for the time from 6 am to 6 pm and blue for 6 pm to 6 am. The crown at 4 o'clock must be pulled out to its intermediate position to adjust the alarm time in 15-minute steps by turning it in either direction.

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The display mechanism for the alarm time in hours and minutes drives a differential gear that constantly compares the preset alarm time with the current local time. A system that offsets mechanical play makes it possible to set the alarm strike with one-minute accuracy to the next quarter hour. For instance, at 12:14, the alarm can be set to 12:15. A patent application has been filed for this mechanism.

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The pusher at 2 o'clock turns the alarm ON or OFF. The small bell-shaped aperture directly beneath 12 o'clock indicates the status: white for alarm ON and black for alarm OFF. The respective pusher is embossed with a small bell symbol that has the same shape as the alarm ON/OFF indicator aperture. This pusher is endowed with the same interlock device as the two time-zone pushers.

Optimally secured

The system that controls and monitors the alarm function is also equipped with the safety and isolation mechanisms that assure trouble-free functionality and exclude the danger of damage to the movement as a result of incorrect manipulation. As soon as the alarm has stopped sounding, the ON/OFF indicator automatically switches to OFF. Now, the alarm cannot be set again before the strikework spring barrel has been fully rewound. For this reason, the alarm mechanism must always be able to sample the state of wind of the spring. This calls for a complex device with a finger on the strikework barrel axis. Its angular position defines the power reserve and only releases the ON status after it has been fully wound. Switching to the OFF status is possible at any time, however.

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The user can transit to another time zone without any risk, even while the alarm is sounding. In this case, the mechanism merely interrupts the strike sequence and sets the alarm to OFF. The alarm strike is also deactivated when a new alarm time is programmed. The strikework spring is tensioned by rotating the crown at 4 o'clock in the clockwise direction. It is fitted with a clutch that prevents the alarm from being blocked if the spring is overtensioned. Additionally, a patent-pending system deactivates the alarm spring winding device when the alarm display shows ON. The mainspring barrel can be wound at any time with the same crown, but by rotating it in the counterclockwise direction.

Convincing aesthetic appeal

At first sight, the Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time is reminiscent of another Patek Philippe watch launched in 2015: the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. Inspired by the heyday of aviation, that model has two time zones and is currently available in two versions ... as the Ref. 5524 men’s wristwatch and the Ref. 7234 for ladies. Patek Philippe adopted the characteristic aviators’ style of the case as well as the nearly identical dimensions. This was possible even though the new movement is much more complex. With a tremendous effort, the engineers were able to further miniaturize the components and subassemblies.

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With a diameter of 42.2 mm and a height of 11.57 mm as well as an integrated bezel and integrated lugs, the case is cold-formed with a high-tonnage press from a blank in platinum, the most precious noble metal but also the one that is most difficult to machine. The forming process is followed by precision machining as well as painstaking and elaborate polishing in the manufacture’s ateliers. The smooth bezel is slightly beveled while the caseband elegantly merges with the slightly curved lugs. Like all Patek Philippe platinum watches, the Alarm Travel Time is set with a diamond in the case flank at 6 o'clock.

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With its technical appeal and elegance, the dial assures optimized readability and underscores its provenance in the aviators’ watch segment. The large applied Arabic numerals and the broad baton hands – all in white gold with a white Superluminova coating – contrast well against the sunburst ebony black background. The skeletonized home-time hour hand rotates discretely on a second plane, as is the case with all Travel Time watches.

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The slender white seconds hand moves its tip along a railway-track minute scale with five-minute dots coated with Superluminova. The small white hand in the subdial at 6 o'clock indicates the date along a scale from 1 to 31; the “1” is red to accentuate the first day of a month. A thin, flat sapphire-crystal glass improves the sonority of the alarm melody. In the interest of visual balance, the crown at 4 o'clock has the same design as the three fluted crowns but does not need a safety interlock.

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Patek Philippe uses a system of transmission levers to harmonize the symmetry and height of the pushers and crowns and making sure they are in the middle of the caseband. The watch is worn on a matte black calfskin strap with contrast stitching that matches the dial. The strap is secured with a platinum clevis prong buckle; its design is reserved for aviators’ timepieces.

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As the quintessential watch for globetrotters, the new Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time, featuring an innovative alarm mechanism and two time zones, is the perfect expression of Patek Philippe’s tradition of innovation – an ongoing quest to improve the functionality and dependability of its timepieces while endowing them with timeless beauty.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collections: GRAND COMPLICATIONS

Model:  Alarm Travel Time Platinum

Reference 5520P-001

Movement
Caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS
Self-winding mechanical movement, 24-hour alarm with strike on a classic gong,
two time zones (local time and home time), separate day/night indicators for local and home time, analog date

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Diameter: 31 mm
Height: 6.6 mm
Number of parts: 574
Number of jewels: 52

Power reserve: Min. 42 hours, max. 52 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax ®
Balance spring: Spiromax ® (in Silinvar ® )
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Functions
3-position crown
  • Pushed in: To wind alarm spring clockwise, to wind mainspring counterclockwise
  • Pulled halfway out: To set the alarm time in either direction in 15-minute steps
  • Pulled all the way out: To set the time in either direction, with balance stop
Displays:
Local-time hour hand (upper hand) and minute hand from the center
Home-time hour hand (lower hand) from the center
Sweep seconds hand
Analog date at 6 o'clock
Aperture displays:
  • – Digital indication of alarm time in 24-hour format at 12 o'clock
  • – Alarm ON/OFF indication at 12 o'clock
  • – Day/night indicator for alarm time at 12 o'clock
  • – Day/night indicator for home time at 3:30 (HOME)
  • – Day/night indicator for local time at 8:30 (LOCAL)
Corrector: Date between 6 and 7 o'clock
Pushers:
  • Increment local time in one-hour steps at 8 o'clock
  • Decrement local time in one-hour steps at 10 o'clock
  • Activate/deactivate (ON/OFF) alarm at 2 o'clock
Patented safety system: Interlock pushers with a quarter turn
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Features
Case: Platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diamond at 6 o'clock
Case dimensions: 
Diameter: 42.2 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 11.6 mm
Height (crystal to lugs): 11.95
Width between lugs: 21 mm
Dial
Brass, sunburst ebony black
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
Hour and minute hands for local time, baton style, gold, blackened, with
Superluminova coating
Hour hand for home time, baton style, skeletonized, gold, white lacquered
Seconds hand in gold with Superluminova coating
Date hand, leaf-shaped, white lacquered
Strap
Calfskin, matte black, hand-stitched with contrast stitching, clevis prong buckle in platinum

Patents
4 patent applications dedicated to the alarm
  • - Anti-backlash mechanism for programming the alarm time
  • - Alarm logic functions
  • - Digital alarm display
  • - Alarm winding deactivation

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Press Release - 2019
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PATEK PHILIPPE SA GENEVE
Chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire 141 1228 Plan-les-Ouates
P.O. Box 2654 – CH - 1211 Geneva 2 - Switzerland
Tel. + 41 22 884 20 20 – Fax + 41 22 884 25 47
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www.Patek.com

Friday, March 29, 2019

H. MOSER & CIE. – ENDEAVOUR Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Edition





















H. MOSER & CIE.ENDEAVOUR Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon White Gold 43mm Limited Edition

EXTRACTS THE ESSENCE OF THE MINUTE REPEATER

A twirling minute repeater with a flying tourbillon, highlighting the "ballet dance" performed by the complex mechanism to chime the hours: on the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon from H. Moser & Cie., the two chimes and the hammers on the minute repeater can be admired on the dial side.

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A timepiece which appeals to the ears and the eyes. Proposing a return to the essential, the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture showcases the beauty of this complication with a purist approach, giving us the opportunity to admire the choreography of the hammers and chimes on a black lacquered dial stripped of both logo and indices, creating a striking contrast between the dial and the metal elements. An ambitious technical development for the 14th calibre produced by the brand since 2005.

 For the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon, H. Moser & Cie. highlights one of the most traditional watch complications and combines it with a magnificent flying tourbillon in a twirling waltz. The two shaped chimes and the minute repeater hammers shine through against the lacquered black dial, intertwining the one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock.

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To develop this marvel of ingenuity, H. Moser & Cie. drew on the expertise of MHC Manufactures Hautes Complications SA, a specialist in minute repeaters. Together, the two manufactures created a brand-new design, showcasing the beauty of the complication by positioning the chimes and the hammers on the dial side. This involved overcoming many technical challenges. In particular, the chimes (which are placed on one level to preserve the finesse of the piece) had to be curved so as not to interfere with the flying tourbillon and to respect H. Moser & Cie.'s main focus to keep the design understated.

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In creating the movement and the case, significant effort has gone into preserving its finesse in terms of the timepiece's diameter and thickness. The sliding bolt, fitted on a Teflon runner to ensure it slides perfectly smoothly, is built into the main plate to save space. The case middle has been widened to the maximum in order to accommodate the movement while allowing enough space to create a soundbox. This amplifies the chiming of hours, quarter-hours and minutes by two gongs, onto which fall two hammers that are raised based on information provided by different feeler-spindles. Added to the fact that this was already a technical feat with regard to the minute repeater mechanism, it also required perfect understanding of the subject to achieve a beautiful sound that combines amplitude, a certain length and a pure note.

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The one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock is certainly eye-catching. Visible behind a skeleton bridge, it is fitted to a ball bearing that improves the accuracy and chronometry. Resolutely contemporary and in line with modern times, the tourbillon appears to float weightlessly on the black lacquered dial stripped of both logo and indices. The strap, made from black alligator leather, adds the final touch of elegance to this unconventional piece, which reinterprets this most romantic of complications in an understated, minimalist style.

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With the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon, H. Moser & Cie. signs a piece which embodies technical complexity, is unconditionally elegant and understated and worthy of the finest watchmaking traditions.

The H. Moser Endeavour Concept Tourbillon Minute Repeater embodies technical complexity, is unconditionally elegant and understated and worthy of the finest watchmaking traditions. Available is available in a limited edition of 10 pieces for each of the two references.

The unmistakeable H. Moser style of irreverent Haute Horlogerie.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

Model: ENDEAVOUR Concept Tourbillon Minute Repeater

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Reference 1903-0200 - White Gold model,
black lacquered dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 10 pieces

Case
Solid 18-carat white gold
Diameter: 43.0 mm/height: 14.0 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sliding bolt with runner made from Teflon
See-through sapphire crystal case back
Crown adorned with an “M
Dial
Black lacquered
Hammers and chimes on dial side
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Movement
Hand-wound HMC 903 calibre
Diameter: 33.0 mm/height: 9.62 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
34 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 90
hours
Double Moser stripes on the plate and bridges
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated
One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridge
Minute repeater
Functions
Hours and minutes
Minute repeater with hour, quarter-hour and minute chimes
Strap
Hand-stitched black alligator leather with red lining
18-carat solid white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo

Limited Edition to only 10 pieces

🔴 #HMOSER
🔴 #HMOSERcie
🔴 #HMOSERWatches
🔴 #EndeavourConcept
 #minuterepeater #tourbillon #chiming  #veryrare #veryrarewatches #baselworld #makeswissmadegreatagain #Baselworld2019

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Press release - 2019
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CONTACT
Nathalie Cobos,
Tel. +41 76 319 03 09, press@h-moser.com
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H. MOSER &CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.         +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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www.H-Moser.com