Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER Grande Tradition Tourbillon Calibre 948 Edition

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER® Grande Tradition Tourbillon Calibre 948 Edition 2022

 PRESENTS THE MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 948
WHEN THE MÉTIERS RARES® ADORN UNIVERSAL TIME

Since the 1930s, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been creating timepieces able to display several time zones simultaneously. From dual-time watches to the Géographique and the remarkable Calibre 948 world timer, La Grande Maison makes time truly universal. For 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a magnificent new artistic interpretation of the Universal Time: Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, embellished with great finesse by the artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier.

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• · A new expression of the world-time complication unites artistry and technical prowess
• · Multiple skills from the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier are brought together to create the domed, open-worked and enamelled dial – the product of 70 hours of work
• · The Universal Tourbillon rotates in 60 seconds and makes a complete circuit of the dial in 24 hours

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In the long history of timekeeping, time zones are relatively recent concept – but, like all measurements of time, have their origins in astronomy. The passage of our 24-hour day is based on the solar cycle, which is determined by the rotation of Earth on itself and its orbit around the Sun. Thus, as early navigators and explorers discovered, sunrise and sunset occur at different times in different places. With the development of maritime trade in the 18th century and railway travel in the 19th century, the need became clear for standardised timing – the synchronisation of clocks within a given geographical region – and for global norms to be established.

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At the International Meridian Conference in 1884, it was decided that the Greenwich Observatory in London would be the prime meridian (longitude 0°) as the standard of time reckoning around the globe. Longitudes would be calculated both east and west from Greenwich up to 180° and the world’s universal day would be the Mean Solar Day, starting and ending at midnight at Greenwich and counted east and west from there – hence the terms ante meridian (am) and post meridian (pm). These resolutions were later formalised to create the 24 major time zones, each defined by 15 degrees of longitude.

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When Jaeger-LeCoultre created the Calibre 948, it was the first time that a world-time complication had ever been united with a flying tourbillon. What’s more, the Universal Tourbillon makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours – the length of a mean solar day. A true expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise, the automatic calibre was conceived, developed and entirely produced within the Manufacture. The splendid new aesthetic expression of the world-time complication showcases La Grande Maison’s artistic creativity and mastery of the decorative crafts alongside its technical prowess.

A World of Time on the Dial

In a subtle allusion to the depth and complexity of time measurement, the dial is made of several parts.

At its centre, in keeping with world-timer tradition, is a map of the world as seen from the North Pole. However, unlike the traditional flattened image, this map floats above the dial bed on a domed skeleton formed by the longitudes and latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere. Created by the master artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™) atelier, the outline of the continents is cut from a sheet of white gold and decorated with champlevé enamel.

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Champlevé – which translates literally as ‘raised field’ – is a noble and ancient enamelling technique that was first practiced almost 2,500 years ago. With great skill, the artisan must first carve out a depression in the raw metal, conforming exactly to the outline of the desired image – in this case, the shapes of the continents seen from the North Pole.

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This hollow area is then filled with multiple layers of enamel – fired at very high temperatures after each layer – until it is flush with the original surface. On the completed enamel surfaces, miniature-painted details of the continents’ major landscape features have been painstakingly added, enhancing the work with even greater intrigue and refinement.

For the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, the enamelling of a single dome requires 55 hours of work. Measuring just 25.5mm in diameter, each dial is a remarkable work of art in miniature, requiring almost 70 hours of meticulous work altogether.

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Beneath the dome, representing the oceans, the dial bed is a disc of vivid blue translucent lacquer applied over a wavy guilloché pattern that suggests the movement of the sea and the lunar influence on its tides. In circular aperture to one side of the map, the flying tourbillon appears to float weightlessly above the blue oceans, spinning in 60 seconds.

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As on all classical world timers, each time zone is represented by the name of a city, arranged in a ring around the central dial. Set outside the city ring are two concentric fixed rings: a 24-hour indicator with applied numerals and rectangular indexes, and a minute track laser-engraved on a ring of blue lacquer that matches the blue oceans. Mimicking the rotation of Earth on its axis, the domed Earth map – together with the Universal Tourbillon and city ring – makes a complete 360-degree revolution in 24 hours, always indicating the right time in each city.

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The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is very simple to read: the hour marked on the ring adjacent to the city name is the time in that city’s zone. It is equally simple to operate: the time is set with the crown, which synchronises all of the time zones around the world. On arrival at a new destination, local time is set by the same crown, which moves only the hour hand, in one-hour jumps forwards or backwards, allowing the minutes and seconds to continue running accurately.

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The Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect complement to the dial. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel contrasts with broad bevels on the lugs, and the hollowed-out lug sides add dynamic tension. Different surfaces are microblasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light.

Blending art and mechanics, the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s dedication to maintaining the fine balance between a passionate drive to innovate and profound respect for tradition.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model: MASTER® Grande Tradition Calibre 948

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 Reference: Q52834E1 – White Gold

Case
White gold; sapphire case-back
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.13mm
Water resistance: 5 bar
Movement
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948
Frequency: 28,800
Power reserve: 48 hours
Functions:
hours/minutes, universal flying tourbillon, world-time display (24 time zones), 24-hour indication
Dial
Blue translucent lacquer over a wavy guilloche pattern; domed skeleton structure decorated with champlevé enamel
Strap
Alligator leather with deployant buckle

 Limited edition of 20 pieces

  UP TO 8 YEARS OF WARRANTY

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Richemont Group - closes stores in russia

 

Richemont Group joins Ukrainian relief efforts & closes stores in russia

The Richemont Group, the parent holding company that owns Cartier, A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels, announced today that it stands with all those affected by the war in Ukraine. 

The Group pledged support for the safety of its employees in the country. Richemont pledged funds to Doctors Without Borders (Médecins Sans Frontières) to help Ukrainian victims. Richemont further adds that it has stopped operations in Ukraine and suspended commercial activities in Russia, with the following statement:

    Richemont's deepest compassion and thoughts go out to our colleagues, their families and friends affected by the tragic situation in Ukraine.

    With the care and wellbeing of our colleagues top of mind, we are in close contact with our people on the ground and ensuring they receive all the financial, logistic and moral support they need.

    Richemont has initiated a significant donation to Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF). This donation will help provide emergency response activities, basic aid items, and medical supplies and support to people in need in the region. Several of our Maisons and businesses are also supporting humanitarian efforts with additional donations and contributions.

    Given the current global context, it is with regret that we stopped our operations in Ukraine on 24 February and suspended our commercial activities in Russia on 3 March.

    We will continue to monitor developments and adapt our measures accordingly.

Media contacts

Richemont Press Office +41 22 721 3507

 pressoffice@cfrinfo.net

Teneo +44 20 7260 2700

 richemont@teneo.com

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Jaeger-LeCoultre – REVERSO Tribute Enamel “TIGER” Gold Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre – REVERSO® Tribute Enamel ‘TIGER’ Gold Edition 2022

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When the Reverso was created in 1931, its signature swivelling case was an ingenious functional solution to the problem of protecting the dial and glass of the watch when worn on the polo field. It quickly became apparent that the blank metal of the case back was an ideal canvas for artistic expression, lending itself naturally to decoration with engraving, enamel and other crafts. 

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In 2022, nine decades after the Reverso was born, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the latest episode in this story: the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” – a remarkable expression of the Manufacture’s craftsmanship and creativity. Created to coincide with Chinese New Year and the opening of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new flagship boutique in Shanghai, the new timepiece pays tribute to the Year of the Tiger.

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Swivelling the watch case to its reverse side reveals a magnificent tiger. Engraved into the pink gold case metal, it seems to leap out from its background of black opaque Grand Feu enamel, the polished surface of the tiger’s coat and the contrasting rhodium-brushed texture of its stripes catching and refracting the light to create the illusion of movement and power.

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To maximise the sense of volume and bring depth to the engraving, the artisan engraver used a technique called modelled engraving, using differently sized chisels to sculpt the metal step by step – a precise and exacting task that requires absolute focus and remarkable dexterity. 

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Adding to the challenge of creating this interpretation of the Reverso Tribute Enamel, the engraver’s work began not, as is usual, with a bare metal surface but with one that already had its coat of Grand Feu enamel. An unprecedented accuracy of gesture is necessary in order to avoid all risk of damage to the pristine enamel, and the engraver devoted 55 working hours to the creation of this masterpiece.
 

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The dial of the Reverso Tribute Enamel features the same opaque black Grand Feu enamel as the case back. The elegant simplicity of the Reverso Tribute dial, with its faceted appliqué hour-markers, chemin de fer minutes track, and Dauphine hands – in this case, perfectly matched to the pink gold of the case – places full value on the subtle beauty of the glowing black background.

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The apparent simplicity of the pure black enamel is deceptive because in Grand Feu enamelling, the outcome of the firing process is never entirely predictable. Building up the enamel layers to create a black of such depth and richness, with each new layer followed by firing, the enamelling of the two surfaces of the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” required no less than 20 working hours. 

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That they are perfectly matched in colour and purity is testament to exceptional skills that can be acquired only through many years of experience. Jaeger-LeCoultre remains one of very few watch Manufactures to have its own in-house enamelling atelier, safeguarding and advancing this ancient craft.

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Created to celebrate the Chinese Zodiac Year and made only to order, the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” offers the possibility of being personalised with different enamel colours. An ideal canvas for artistic expression, the case-back of every Reverso offers limitless potential for clients to harness the talents of the artisans in our Métiers Rares® atelier – from enamelling and engraving to miniature painting and gem-setting – to craft one-of-a-kind creations.

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This new Reverso Tribute Enamel is testament to La Grande Maison’s vision of culture and creativity, where the artistic crafts live in perfect harmony with the technical expertise of the Manufacture’s watchmakers.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:   REVERSO® Tribute Enamel “TIGER”

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 Reference: Q39324K1 - made to order

Movement  
Manually wound mechanical movement,
Calibre: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822A/2,
Diameter: 20.20 mm.
Height: 2.94 mm.
Components: Total of 108 parts
Jewels: 19, Barrel: 1
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes
Case
Pink gold
Dimensions: 45.5mm x 27.4mm x 9.73mm
Case back: Grand feu enamel, engraving
Water resistance: 3 bar
Dial
Grand feu enamel
Recto Hands Bâton, applied indexes
Strap
Black alligator, pin buckle in pink gold

Limited edition: No but only made to order

Availability: Only at boutiques

Price: € 90,000 (excluding VAT)

  UP TO 8 YEARS OF WARRANTY

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Jaeger-LeCoultre – REVERSO Tribute Minute Repeater Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre – REVERSO® Tribute Minute Repeater Gold Limited Edition 2021

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE REVERSO TRIBUTE MINUTE REPEATER

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Ninety years after the birth of the Reverso, and 150 years after creating its first minute repeater, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces, this exquisite new timepiece unites two of the key themes that have defined La Grande Maison for much of its history: an exceptional expertise in chiming watches and the timeless story of the Reverso.

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With its distinctive Art Deco lines and swivelling case, the Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches. Its story embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternal pursuit of beauty and aesthetic refinement, expanding the Reverso’s stylistic realm by harnessing the full potential of its unique design. 

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Allied to this is the Manufacture’s endlessly inventive quest for technical advancement – from the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, and the ingenious mechanism that made it possible, to the development of complications specific to the Reverso.

A distinguished legacy in chiming watches

In the 1990s, amid the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking that followed the quartz crisis, the Reverso – with its distinctive rectangular case – became the vehicle through which the Manufacture would redevelop its expertise in high complications. 

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Having mastered the added challenge that rectangular movements dictate an entirely different architecture from that of traditional round movements – a particularly demanding challenge for chiming mechanisms – Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Répétition Minutes in 1994. It was the first time the Maison had miniaturised a minute repeater for a wristwatch and was the world’s first rectangular minute repeater movement.

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n fact, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of chiming mechanisms dates back to the very foundation of the Manufacture in 1833, and its deep expertise is today confirmed by an archive of more than 200 chiming calibres. 

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Since that first Reverso minute repeater of the 1990s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and designers have redefined the benchmark for acoustic quality, harnessing new technology in service of this noble tradition.

A new expression for the Minute Repeater

Embodying technical advances such as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, silent regulator and a new generation of gongs, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is powered by a revised version of Calibre 944 – a movement entirely conceived, designed and produced within the Manufacture. 

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The new timepiece is distinguished by dials on both the front and reverse sides, bringing a fresh visual expression to the timeless Reverso design, as well as to the minute repeater mechanism itself. While the dials both display the same time, they are very different in character – one exuberant, the other more sober. Both are a testament to the beauty of fine movement decoration and the exceptional level of craftsmanship that resides within the Manufacture.

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The front dial is entirely skeletonised, revealing the full complexity of the minute repeater mechanism and presenting a mesmerising display of moving parts when the minute repeater is activated. Beneath a large bow-shaped bridge that sweeps from 11 o’clock to 7 o’clock, the components appear almost to be floating in three dimensions, the sense of visual depth and transparency enhanced by faceted indexes that are cantilevered from the chemin de fer minutes track. 

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With a gleaming golden finish, the bridge, hour markers, gongs and several other components perfectly match the colour of the rose-gold watch case.

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While the exuberance of the front dial contrasts with the rectilinear geometry of the Reverso case, the relative sobriety of the reverse dial echoes and amplifies those straight lines. Vertical Côtes de Genève stripes extend over the entire height of the main plate, which also serves as the dial. Showcasing the timekeeping mechanism, with subtle colour accents provided by blued screws and golden hands and hour markers, the cool silver tone of the metal provides an elegant counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case.

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Set into the side of the watch case, the slider that activates the chimes has been specially designed for the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater to be as slim as possible, without sacrificing ergonomics. Visually complementing the Art Deco lines of the case, the effect is one of great refinement.

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In showcasing both technical complexity and the aesthetic crafts, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater underlines the eternal modernity of the Reverso design, marrying the technical prowess of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to its eternal quest for new forms of visual expression.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  REVERSO Tribute Minute Repeater Edition
 

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Reference: 71225SQ - Pink Gold

Movement  
Manually wound mechanical movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 944; Components: 348  

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21,600 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 35, Barrel: 2, Height: 4.95 mm
Power reserve: 35-hour
Functions:  Hour - Minute, Hour - Minute identical on front/back, Minute Repeater
Case
18-carat pink gold
Dimensions: 51.1 x 31 mm thickness: 11.41mm
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)
Dial
Front: Black, Lacquered, Appliqued hour-markers, Dauphine hands
Reverse: Silvered grey, Opaline, Appliqued hour-markers, Dauphine hands
Strap
Leather, pin buckle in 18-carat pink gold
 

Edition
Limited edition of 10 timepieces

Price    $ 53,900

  UP TO 8 YEARS OF WARRANTY

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Jaeger-LeCoultre – REVERSO Tribute Enamel - Hokusai ‘Kirifuri Waterfall’ Gold Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre – REVERSO® Tribute Enamel - Hokusai ‘Kirifuri Waterfall’ Gold Edition 2021

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Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Enamel - Hokusai ‘Kirifuri Waterfall’

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For almost two millennia, a two-way cultural exchange between Asia and Europe has had a profound influence on every art form of both East and West – from the visual to the performing arts – as well as on techniques for producing textiles, glass and ceramics. 

This is an exchange that Jaeger-LeCoultre has embraced throughout the Manufacture’s history. Coinciding with 90 years of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates this ongoing cultural exchange with an exquisite new Reverso Tribute Enamel timepiece.

Kirifuri Waterfall (Kirifuri-no-taki)

Uniting European craftsmanship with Japanese art, the reverse side of the case celebrates Eastern art with an enamel miniature painting that faithfully reproduces a woodblock print of Kirifuri Waterfall made by Katsushika Hokusai in the early 1830s. Kirifuri Waterfall is taken from A Tour of the Waterfalls of the Provinces, a series of eight woodblock prints depicting waterfalls that the artist visited between 1831 and 1833 in different regions of Japan’s main island, Honshu.

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Embodying La Grande Maison’s creativity and its vision of the world of art and culture, the new timepiece is testament to the talent and skill of the artisans working in the Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts) atelier within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.

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In a carefully orchestrated process beginning with the case back, the decoration of this timepiece presented many challenges that were particular to this work of art. First among those challenges was to reproduce a work measuring 37 x 24.5 cm onto a surface little more than one-tenth the size of the original – capturing every detail in perfect scale, including the group of tiny human figures at the base of the waterfall.

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To express the power and beauty of the water as it cascades 100 metres down the mountainside Hokusai used a greater sense of perspective and bolder colours for Kirifuri Waterfall than in his previous work. The enameller had not only to mimic this perfectly but also to create the illusion of the woodblock printing technique, which produces a specific effect entirely different from enamelling. A particular challenge is that multi-coloured prints require the use of multiple woodblocks, with each different colour applied in turn – and there was the added challenge of reproducing the bokashi effect of subtly nuanced and graduated colours seen in the original. To achieve these illusions, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master enameller had to develop her own technique.

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The simplicity of the Reverso Tribute dial – with its faceted appliqué hour-markers and Dauphine hands – places full value on the beauty of its decoration. An artistic response to the miniature painting on the case back, this dial is decorated with an unusual, wavy guilloché pattern chosen to echo the effect of moving water. Executed by hand, using a century-old lathe for which a special cam was tooled to achieve this particular pattern, the visual effect of the waves is amplified by layers of translucent grand feu enamel in a soft shade of green that exactly matches a detail of the painting on the reverse side.

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Following multiple firings to build up the enamel layers, the final challenge is the faultless application of the indexes (which requires tiny holes to be drilled through the pristine surface of the enamel) and the transfer of the chemin de fer minutes register.

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As with all enamelling, the firing process can change colours in unpredictable ways, so for both the back and the front of the Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai, many hours of research and experiment were required in order that the dial colour would perfectly match the painting on the reverse, and that the painting would give a faithful rendering of Hokusai’s original colours. In addition to these hours of research, almost five working hours must be dedicated to the guillochage alone, followed by eight working hours for the layers of translucent green enamel. More than 70 working hours are required only to paint the miniature masterpiece on the case back.

ABOUT HOKUSAI

The Japanese artist best known in the West, Hokusai (c.1760–1849) was a highly prolific illustrator, printmaker and ukiyo-e artist. His fame was secured when he was in his eighties, by his monumental woodblock print series Thirty-Six Views of Mount FujiI, which includes The Great Wave off Kanagawa (Kanagawa oki nami ura), one of the world’s best-known works of art. (Jaeger-LeCoultre honoured that work by reproducing it as a miniature enamel painting on a limited-edition Reverso in 2018.)

Thanks to a craze for ukiyo-e painting, which depicted the hedonistic lifestyle of the merchant class in Edo Japan (1600–1868), woodblock printing flourished from the 17th to 19th Century, as a means of reproducing those paintings. Innovative in his composition and use of colour, Hokusai was instrumental in transforming ukiyo-e from a style of portraiture into a broader genre that included landscapes, plants and animals. As a consequence of his fame, ukiyo-e and woodblock prints became central to forming the West's perception of Japanese art.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  REVERSO Tribute Enamel Hokusai ‘Kirifuri Waterfall’ Gold Edition
 

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 Reference: Q39334T2 - Guilloché and Grand Feu enamel

Movement  
Manually wound mechanical movement,
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822; 134 parts
21,600 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42-hour
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds.
Reverse: Second time zone, 24-hour day/night indicator
Case
18-carat White gold
Dimensions: 45.5 x 27.4mm x 9.73mm
Water resistance: 3 bar
Dial 
Guilloché and Grand Feu enamel, applied golden hour markers, Dauphine hands.
Case back: Grand Feu enamel miniature painting
Strap
Black alligator, pin buckle in white gold

 

Edition
Limited edition of 10 pieces

Price  upon request

  UP TO 8 YEARS OF WARRANTY

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