Thursday, April 6, 2023

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition Award 2023

F.P.JourneYoung Talent Competition Award 2023
 
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Young Talent Competition Awarding to the winner 2023 at the F.P.Journe Manufacture in Geneva: Alexandre Hazemann, France, for his watch AH.02 Signature.

Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmakers in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organises the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

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 Michael Tay, Alexandre Hazemann and François-Paul Journe.

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realisation, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction.

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The 2023 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

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The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2023 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

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A.Hazemann – AH.02 Signature
 
Age 23 - Pontarlier - France
Graduated from Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, France - July 2022

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AH.02 Signature and Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto

Introduction

For the 7th year of watchmaking studies at the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, we are asked to create a school watch. The subject imposed this year was to create a watch with a striking mechanism at the passage of the hours with a display of the hour in instantaneous jump. In addition to the technical constraints, our creative approach had to answer a philosophical question: "What do we need to be happy?”

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So it was natural that I turned to the theme of passion. I built the general design of the project on different axes: balance, lightness, pure watchmaking art. AH.02 Signature is inspired by a deep and sincere reflection that gave birth to a rich and sourced creative thought.

History

This project was realised in collaboration with my long-time friend Victor Monnin. Over the years of studying together, we have come to understand the importance of teamwork. We share a philosophy, a "mindset" similar to that of two brothers. 

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  Victor Monnin
 
Moreover, our skills complemented each other perfectly. Victor is more involved in project management and organisation, as well as in the machining of components. As for me, I have more facility for the watchmaking construction, the watchmaking calculations which ensue from it as well as the prototyping.

Realisation of the project

This adventure took place from October 4, 2021 to June 10, 2022. Chronologically, we started by making sketches including the design of the watches from October to November. We then moved on to computer design and watchmaking calculations from December to January. Then, we manufactured all the components during 2 months, from February to the end of March

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
  
I should specify that we made all the parts except for the glass, the bracelet and the basic movement. The components were manufactured with traditional machines (milling machines, pointing machines...) but also with CNC. The movement LJP6900 was delivered in trays, with only the various pointings and millings carried out. We then had to finish cutting the bridges and the plate.

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The following month was reserved for prototyping and reliability. This stage was for me the most complex. The goal was to find and solve the problems one by one in order to obtain a functional watch, capable of keeping time with impeccable precision. We then made the entire stainless steel case on a traditional machine to accommodate the double complication movement.

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May was reserved for the finishing. I made the satin finishing of the bridge and of the faces with a cabron, the sandblasting of the plate... Finally, I had to find the suppliers to make the electroplating (Ruthenium anthracite). 

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Alexandre Hazemann

To end, I made the final assembly to have the watch finished and functional for the beginning of June. It took us almost 8 months and more than 1,200 hours of work to complete our project in its entirety. The pace was very fast (about 15 hours per day) without any break.

How it works

A striking hour function differs significantly from a quarter repeater. Moreover, considering the synchronisation of the mechanisms, it is necessary to explain the principle of the instantaneous jumping hour.

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A striking hour emits one sound per hour. We have chosen to link the jump of the hammer to the jump of the hour. To do this, we used a lever that performs 3 actions for the same cycle. The first action is to constantly stay in contact with the hour cam in the center of the movement. 

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Then, for the jump of the hours, a finger fixed on the lever drives the star wheel when the lever falls on the cam. Finally, for the third action, the lever arms the hammer in its ascending arc and then releases it when the cam jumps to let it strike with all its inertia against the gong.

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We have also developed a unidirectional time setting system which allows the rotation of the cam in one direction only, which makes it impossible to break it. A retractable pinion is installed between the timer and the first time setting gear. In the event that the user corrects the time in the wrong direction, the pinion will retract and rotate freely.
Conclusion
 
This creation meant a lot to us and we wanted to end our 7 years of study in the most beautiful way. Through this adventure, we wanted to transform this school project into a professional project and thus make it a springboard for our career. 

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
 
With my friend Victor Monnin, we decided that one day, we will create our independent workshop to produce these two striking watches. We know that the road is long and tortuous and that everything remains to be done. 

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto
 
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The mission of The Hour Glass is to advance watch culture. They are known for their thoughtfully curated selection of brands, their passion in designing uniquely immersive retail experiences and their team of highly knowledgeable watch specialists. The Hour Glass strives to become the primary port of call for all enthusiasts and watch collectors alike. Everyday across their combined network of over 50 boutiques in the Asia Pacific region, they are poised to further the awareness and appreciation of watches and ready to guide their clients in their hunt for a superlative timepiece
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collaboration / Partnerships

Model: AH.02 Signature

Movement
Caliber: LJP6900 re-worked / Automatic movement
14.8 lines - 34 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 V/h (4 Hz)
Unidirectional time setting
Fully manufactured complications
Striking hour - Instantaneous jumping hour
Power reserve: 50 hours
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter: 42 mm / Height: 12.8 mm
Weight: 120 g
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Custom made sapphire crystal - Swiss made  
Dial
Skeleton  
Strap
Bespoke strap made in France: Blue alligator

 

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Press release - 2023
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com 

Wednesday, April 5, 2023

A. Lange & Sohne – ODYSSEUS Chronograph Edition

A. Lange & SohneODYSSEUS Chronograph DATOMATIC® Edition 2023

 ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH
The first A. Lange & Söhne self-winding chronograph

Four years ago, with the ODYSSEUS, the A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers launched their first sporty-elegant timepiece, showcasing a unique design and a customised, exquisitely finished movement. Now, the ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH is the sequel to the success story of this watch family. The newly developed L156.1 calibre encased in stainless steel premieres: it is the first A. Lange & Söhne self-winding chronograph movement. 

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Thanks to its innovative and dynamic function that resets the chronograph hands to zero, this timepiece is proof that the Saxon manufactory dauntlessly explores new avenues and advances the development of precision watchmaking. Given its horological intricacy, the ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH comes in a limited edition of 100 watches.

New horizons in design and function

The A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers continue to break new ground. In 2019, they redefined the category of sporty-elegant watches with the launch of the ODYSSEUS. They ventured into uncharted territory in several respects. One of them was the development of an individual movement, customised for the novel applications ‒ the L155.1 DATOMATIC calibre.

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Secondly, they struck a new and distinctive path when it came to designing the ODYSSEUS: its contemporary appearance is based on openness, lightness and the prominent features. Its narrow bezel allowed for a comparatively large dial. Together with the lancet-shaped hands and the typical Lange displays for the date and day of week, it assures excellent legibility.

The challenge of a manufacture movement

With the youngest member of the ODYSSEUS watch family, A. Lange & Söhne once again forayed into unknown territory, thus underscoring its expertise in the area of short-time measurement. To this day, designing and building a chronograph calibre is considered to be one of the greatest challenges in precision watchmaking. 

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Only a few manufacturers possess the knowledge and ability to develop and craft a similarly complex movement. With a total of 13 manufacture movements, chronographs have been among the most coveted A. Lange & Söhne models since 1999.

“The ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH transports the contemporary and one-of-a-kind design of the watch family to a new technical dimension. It meets all the requirements of a stopwatch suitable for many fields of application, without relinquishing the hallmarks of Lange precision watchmaking,” says Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Development.

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To retain the characteristic dial design of the ODYSSEUS, the manufactory developed a customised movement that positions both chronograph hands in the centre, the minute counter with a lozenge-shaped tip as well as the red chrono seconds hand. As a consequence, the totalisers, which are conventionally arranged at 3 and 9 o’clock, could be dispensed with, and the style-defining positions of the outsize date and day of the week could be maintained. 

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Owing to the expansion of the measuring range from 30 to 60 minutes, the Lange developers succeeded in introducing new fields of application for the chronograph. Additionally, it is endowed with an innovative, dynamic reset-to-zero function. When the reset-to-zero button at 4 o’clock is actuated after a time measurement, a short but impressive spectacle ensues: while the minute counter jumps back to its starting position in the conventional way, the red chrono seconds hand covers the entire distance travelled beforehand within a fraction of a second ‒ one full revolution for each measured minute. 

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If the minute counter has not reached the 30-minute mark yet, the two hands move anti-clockwise. If the minute counter has passed the 30-minute mark, both hands will advance to zero clockwise. At high speed, the chrono seconds hand performs a full revolution for every minute required to reach the full hour.

Dual-function button

To assure safe and easy operation of the chronograph, the Lange product developers equipped the specially sealed, tapered buttons with a novel dual function. 

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In the normal position of the screw-down crown, the buttons at 2 and 4 o’clock are used to operate the chronograph functions: start, stop and reset to zero. When the crown is pulled, the date and day of the week can be corrected with a newly developed mechanism.

A distinctive design

The ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH takes centre stage in a three-part stainless-steel case with a diameter of 42.5 millimetres that withstands a test pressure of 12 bar and is robust enough to accompany its wearer even during sports and leisure activities. As with the other members of the watch family, the surfaces are matted and the edges are accentuated with a chamfer: the combination of brushed surfaces and chamfered edges creates an impressive play of light and is echoed on the lugs and links of the solid stainless-steel bracelet.

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The chronograph, which is limited to 100 watches, is equipped with a dial whose special architecture creates an illusion of depth ‒ a feature shared by the previous ODYSSEUS models. The inner surface of the black main dial boasts a textured surface, the notched baton appliques made of white gold and the subsidiary seconds scale are underlaid with concentric circles. A palladium-coloured flange ring with a printed two-part minute scale frames the dial. 

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The scale for the fractions of a second is positioned on the outer circumference, while the scale for minutes and seconds is arranged further inside. Printed in red, the number 60 at 12 o’clock and the red chrono seconds hand accentuate the equally elegant and dynamic appearance of the ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH. The typical Lange lancet-shaped hour and minute hands, which are slightly more prominent in the watches of the ODYSSEUS family, contrast well against the background. They are luminous as well as the inner surfaces of the baton appliques.

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The large displays for the date and the day of week also contribute to the timepiece’s distinctive appearance. The modern, digital aesthetics are inspired by a masterpiece of historic Saxon watchmaking artistry that is closely connected with the A. Lange & Söhne history: the Five-Minute Clock in the Dresden Semper Opera. To mark the opening of the Opera House in 1841, the famous stage clock ‒ uncommon for that period, it displayed the time digitally ‒ was created by Court Clockmaker Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes. He was both apprentice master and father-in-law to Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the founding father of Glashütte precision watchmaking.

The proprietary path to perfection

The L156.1 DATOMATIC calibre ‒ the manufactory’s first self-winding chronograph movement ‒ powers the ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH. The attribute DATOMATIC is derived from the words “date” and “automatic”. A skeletonised and partially black-rhodiumed central rotor with a centrifugal mass in 950 platinum assures efficient winding. When fully wound, the mainspring barrel delivers a maximum power reserve of 50 hours. The oscillation system is designed to ensure optimum rate accuracy. To this end, the balance, which beats at a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz), was suspended beneath the balance bridge; it is hand-engraved with a stylised wave pattern alluding to the water resistance of the watch and the possible applications in sports settings.

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The A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers have always cut their own path in crafting and finishing their movements. Thus, the L156.1 DATOMATIC calibre is also assembled twice to ensure maximum precision. Many unique, traditional elements are incorporated, for example bridges and plates made of untreated German silver, the hand-engraved balance bridge or the gold chatons secured by blued screws. Additionally, all components, even those that are no longer visible once the movement is fully assembled, are, for the greater part, elaborately finished by hand. This can be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

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“The ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH symbolises the pioneering spirit of the manufactory, to explore previously undiscovered fields, to overcome obstacles and to implement innovative technical solutions,” says Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid. “Inventiveness and creativity, two A. Lange & Söhne key areas of expertise, will continue to break the mould in traditional precision watchmaking.”

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Technical Specifications

Model: ODYSSEUS Chronograph DATOMATIC® Edition

Ref. 463.178 / LSLS4635BA

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L156.1 DATOMATIC® ,
self-winding, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards,
decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; 
unidirectionally winding central rotor with 950 platinum centrifugal mass; 
balance bridge engraved by hand

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Diameter: 32.9 millimetres; height: 6.2 millimetres
Movement parts: 516
Jewels: 31
Screwed gold chatons: 1
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillation system: Shock-resistant cam-poised balance with four poising screws,
superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house,
frequency 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz), precision
beat adjustment system with cam and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 50 hours when fully wound
Complications: Outsize date, chronograph, zero reset, day-of-week display
Functions:
Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; date and day-of-week displays; Chronograph
Operating elements: Screw-down crown for winding the watch and setting the time
Case
Case: Steel
Diameter: 42.5 millimetres; height: 14.2 millimetres
Distance between horns: 26 millimetres
Water resistance: To 12 bar (120 metres)
Dial
Black
Hands and appliques: White gold; baton markers, hour and minute luminous
Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Bracelet
Stainless steel
Clasp: Stainless steel safety deployant buckle with precision length adjustment mechanism


🔰 Limited edition 100 watches, engraved edition number

🔴 Price: in excess of  EUR 55,000 💰

 

| #AlangeSoehne | #LangeODYSSEUS | #ODYSSEUSсhronograph  | #DATOMATIC | #Higheststandards | #GiveTime |#LangeQualityStandards / #175yearsGlashuette | #Finewatchmaking |

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Press Release - 2023
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Press enquiries
Arnd Einhorn, Head of Corporate Communications & Product PR

* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 -440- +49 (0) 44-5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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