Monday, December 7, 2020

Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Le Régulateur Edition

Louis ErardExceptional Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Automatic Limited Edition 2020

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 TRAVEL TO THE END OF STYLE

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Technique, meaning and style. Louis Erard continues to partner with watchmaking creators, and builds another bridge with high-end watchmaking by working alongside Vianney Halter, an artist whose every creation is a collector's item. Automatic regulator, limited edition of 178 pieces, price CHF 3,500.

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Louis Erard has done the impossible once again: a collector's automatic regulator in a limited edition of 178 watches, priced at CHF 3,500. This new creation is part of a series of collaborations with watchmaking creators which began with Alain Silberstein; this time, the result bears the dual signature Louis Erard by Vianney Halter.

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This exceptional watch is a quintessence born of the meeting of two worlds. The first is that of Vianney Halter, who has rediscovered the roots of his own style, both classic and ultra-contemporary, and retained the essential. 

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The second is that of Louis Erard, who offered his services to the watchmaker and challenged him to design a model for the general public, for the first time in his career. 

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The piece should be a genuine reinterpretation of Vianney Halter's philosophy of watchmaking, and not merely a reduction or simplification of his very sophisticated style. 

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For Vianney Halter, moving out of his usual creative zone was a major challenge: "I wanted to see if I was capable of reaching all those who love my watches but are not able to buy them. Louis Erard has allowed me to do that while staying true to myself."

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He envisaged this creation as a return to basics – both in relation to his own style and the history of watchmaking. 

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His starting point was in the mechanics and the regulator, the complication which is central to the history of Louis Erard and invariably leads back to the precision clocks of the 19th century, the master clocks of observatories, and to a time when watches had to not only be beautiful, but fulfil their fundamental function: to tell the time.

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In his own unique style, which Vianney Halter calls "future past" (in other words: how would 19th century watches have been if they had been created in the future?), he began by sculpting the dial in order to give depth to each of the three counters. 

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He then cut the hands from blued steel, a first for Louis Erard. The minutes are indicated by a long fountain-pen-shaped hand, giving subtlety to the final indication, but with a good presence in the centre. 

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The hours are also indicated by a fountain-pen-shaped hand, but this one is thickset so as to catch the eye before the others. The second hand is simply balanced, with a counterweight to avoid disrupting its operation.

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If the final result appears very classic, this is not the case: it is very much a contemporary watch which could never have existed in the past. 

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And it possesses the inimitable hallmark of the unrivalled designer Vianney Halter, who added a crenellated crown like that from his "Antiqua" model as a final nod to his designs.

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Louis Erard demonstrates once again that it is possible to translate the rules and craftsmanship of high-end watchmaking into an accessible watch.

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Further creations will follow with other guest creators, each produced in a limited series of 178 pieces, a symbolic number which signifies that we are stronger together.

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ABOUT VIANNEY HALTER

Vianney Halter was born in 1963 on the outskirts of Paris, the son of an engine driver on the French railways. He remembers being fascinated by the old machines and mechanical objects that his father brought home. Perhaps this early contact with powerful locomotives, steam engines and other measuring instruments is the reason why he was attracted to technology and mechanics.

At 14 years of age, Vianney Halter made the decision to broaden his interest in mechanics, and took the train to the capital to enrol at the École Horlogère de Paris (Paris Watchmaking School). He qualified in 1980 and spent his first ten years in the profession restoring antique watches and clocks, experience which gave him in-depth knowledge of the art of watchmaking.
 

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Self-employed since 1984, he then went on to create a variety of timepieces for well-known manufacturers including Harry Winston, Breguet, and Audemars Piguet. He has also invented and developed his own collection of wristwatches since 1998.

His designs have been regarded as avant-garde pieces and are considered to have instigated a new shift in the watchmaking world. Vianney Halter makes unusual watches in the traditional method of the master watchmakers of the past, while using singular aesthetics, his own technical patents and unique constructions. All of this is illustrated in his first model, the “Antiqua”, a perpetual calendar presented in 1998. This watch was instantly regarded as a "relic of the future", reinforcing Halter's creativity and allowing him to enter the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI).

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His years as an independent watchmaker continuing the art of watchmaking and his contribution to the modern horological landscape have already earned him nine awards. He has created around ten models of wristwatches, but the high level of workmanship they demand means their production is confidential. Indeed, under 500 pieces created by Vianney Halter have been produced to this day.

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ABOUT LOUIS ERARD


Based in the Jura mountains, the birthplace of watchmaking, Louis Erard embodies the values of Swiss mechanics, the tradition that keeps its promises. Combining luxury, timelessness and elegance, this independent brand is renowned for its mechanical watches and, in particular, its iconic regulators. A collection on which the brand, founded by Mr. Louis Erard in 1929, built its reputation.

Continuing the work of its founder and honouring watchmaking tradition, the Maison is reinterpreting the codes in a contemporary language. Louis Erard is now writing the next chapter of the brand’s story. Inspired by high-end watchmaking, the brand is strengthening its collection of mechanical timepieces with complications.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Collection: Exceptional

Model: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter

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Ref. 85237AA51.BVA35

Movement
Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre,

11½ ''', Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels,
28,800 VpH (4 Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated,
special openwork oscillating weight with Louis Erard symbol), approx.
38 hours of power reserve
Functions
HMS
Hour hand on counter at 12 o'clock, central minute hand,
second hand on counter at 6 o'clock
Case

Polished stainless steel, Ø42 mm, thickness: 12.25 mm,
3 pieces, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides,
movement visible through the transparent back,
water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft),
Vianney Halter signature crenellated crown
Case back engravedLimited Edition 1 of 178
Dial
Upper plate in circular satin-finished silver,
matt grey lower plate with microbead-blasted silver counters, black transfers,
horizontal satin-finished appliques featuring Louis Erard logo at 3 o'clock and Vianney Halter logo at 9 o'clock
Hands
Vianney Halter signature blued steel hands
Strap
"Oceania" blue calf nubuck leather with tone-on-tone stitching,
polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling strap to be changed quickly

Collaboration

Watch developed in association with Vianney Halter in a limited edition of 178 pieces

Recommended retail price: CHF 3,500.00
 

Edition
Limited edition of 178
timepieces

 
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Press release - 2020
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www.Vianney-Halter.com
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CONTACT:

LOUIS ERARD
Rue de l’Ouest 2
CH–2340 Le Noirmont
Suisse

info@louiserard.com
+41 (0) 32 957 65 30 

Mélanie Kilcher-Berberat, Marketing Manager
Tel. +41 32 957 66 45, Melanie.Berberat @louiserard.com

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Friday, December 4, 2020

A. Lange & Sohne – TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” Edition

A. Lange & Söhne1815 TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” HoneyGold® 43mm Anniversary Edition 2020

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Like no other watch, this special model shows how A. Lange & Söhne has evolved the tradition of precision watchmaking and repeatedly infused it with fresh momentum. Five classic complications are combined in a unique masterpiece of technology called TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite", introduced in 2017. As a tribute to Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a limited special edition in honey gold is now debuting with a black-rhodiumed dial made of the same material.

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The brave decision of Ferdinand Adolph Lange to establish his first pocket watch workshop in the Ore Mountain town of Glashütte on 7 December 1845 marks the birth of Saxon precision watchmaking.

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A. Lange & Söhne is now commemorating the event with a "Homage to F. A. Lange" collection. It consists of three limited-edition models from the 1815 watch family – the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD, the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD and the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD.  

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The third model is limited to 50 pieces and introduces the combination of a fusée-and-chain transmission, a tourbillon, a rattrapante chronograph and a perpetual calendar, which was realised for the first time in ▶️ 2017, and a novel dial and exclusive movement finissage. 

Sublime relief in honey gold

With the dial of the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD "Homage to F. A. Lange", A. Lange & Söhne has taken a totally new approach. It is black-rhodiumed and, like the 43-millimetre case, consists of solid, 18-carat honey gold. The raised numerals and scales as well as the logo contrast vividly against the dark background. They are not applied and instead are raised from the material by about 0.15 millimetres. In combination with the relief, this creates an incomparable three-dimensional effect.

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The hands of the time and calendar displays as well as the black-rhodiumed lunar disc are made of the same gold alloy. Its two glistening, slightly cambered moons are framed by hand-engraved stars. The dial and the lunar discs are crafted in-house to assure the perfect implementation of the innovative design idea.

Peerlessly complex

With calibre L133.1, the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD "Homage to F. A. Lange" is endowed with a movement of peerless complexity; it consists of 684 parts. It fully complies with the rules of classic precision watchmaking with design details such as column-wheel control for the rattrapante chronograph, the screw balance, and its artisanal finissage. 

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It would be legitimate to call this watch a grand complication. However, a masterpiece with this name al-ready exists at A. Lange & Söhne: the GRAND COMPLICATION with a total of seven horological complications. It was released in 2013 and crafted only six times.

A quintet of complications

When it was introduced in 2017, the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" was among the highlights at the SIHH salon in Geneva. The combination of five complications in this ar-rangement is unique. As long ago as 2005, A. Lange & Söhne had already created a watch with a fusée-and-chain transmission, a tourbillon, and a rattrapante chronograph: the TOURBOGRAPH "Pour le Mérite". But the addition of a perpetual calendar required more than 200 extra parts, dramatically changing the power flows in the movement and requiring a new design concept.

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With analogue displays, the perpetual calendar indicates all month durations correctly until 2100. After a one-time correction, the calendar is then properly calibrated for the next century. It has three subsidiary dials. The date at twelve o'clock and the day at nine o'clock are indicated with honey-gold hands. The month and leap year are both displayed at three o'clock. The upper half of the analogue date accommodates the moon-phase display which is calculated at an accuracy of 122.6 years.

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The connection between the perpetual calendar and the rattrapante chronograph posed a special challenge for the engineers. This is because when both the chronograph function is used and the calendar displays switch, mechanical conflicts must be avoided alongside amplitude fluctuations that could have a negative impact on rate stability. Here, A. Lange & Söhne was able to benefit from its many years of experience in the development of highly complex chronographs. 

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The top-mounted rattrapante (or split-seconds) hand in blued steel can be stopped independently of the gold-plated chronograph hand and also resynchronised with it via the pusher at ten o'clock. This allows any number of lap times to be stopped during a running time measurement. The mechanical switching processes are controlled with two column wheels and can be observed in real time through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The 30-minute-counter at nine o'clock completes the repertoire of chronograph displays.

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With their carefully orchestrated interaction, the tourbillon and the fusée-and-chain transmission minimise two unavoidable physical phenomena that are common in all mechanical watches: gravity and the waning force of the mainspring. In 1994, A. Lange & Söhne succeeded for the first time in integrating a fusée-and-chain transmission in the compact dimensions of a wristwatch. Via a fusée connected to the spring barrel with a chain, the power of the mainspring is delivered to the movement with constant force thanks to the ingenious way in which the principle of levers is harnessed. A planetary gearing mechanism inside the fusée assures that the flow of power from the mainspring barrel to the escapement is not interrupted while the watch is being wound.

 A special finish

The special finissage of the calibre L133.1 was produced with a great artisanal effort and distinguishes itself from the first generation in essential details. The surfaces of the German-silver bridges and cocks are granularly textured and endowed with black-rhodiumed inscriptions. The filigreed lines of the manually engraved chronograph bridge are black-rhodiumed as well. This increases the three-dimensional effect of the pattern as well as the modernity of the traditional technique. 

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The artisanal decoration also includes the straight graining on the chain. The black polish on several areas of the curved tourbillon bridge challenges the skills of the finissage experts to the utmost. The tourbillon cage is suspended between two diamond endstones as was the case in Ferdinand Adolph Lange's historic pocket watches of the then highest quality level, the 1A category. Other technical details of that category included a balance wheel with gold poising screws and screwed gold chatons to secure the bearing jewels. To top it off, a diamond end-stone was integrated in the hand-engraved balance cock. When reincorporating the company, Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein adopted numerous 1A quality criteria in the new product philosophy to build a bridge between tradition and modernity.

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The artisanal decoration also includes the straight graining on the chain. The black polish on several areas of the curved tourbillon bridge challenges the skills of the finissage experts to the utmost. The tourbillon cage is suspended between two diamond endstones as was the case in Ferdinand Adolph Lange's historic pocket watches of the then highest quality level, the 1A category. Other technical details of that category included a balance wheel with gold poising screws and screwed gold chatons to secure the bearing jewels. To top it off, a diamond end-stone was integrated in the hand-engraved balance cock. When reincorporating the company, Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein adopted numerous 1A quality criteria in the new product philosophy to build a bridge between tradition and modernity.

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About A. Lange & Söhne  

Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the cornerstone of Saxony's precision watchmaking industry when he established his manufactory in 1845

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His precious pocket watches remain highly coveted among collectors all over the world. The company was expropriated after World War II, and the name A. Lange & Söhne nearly vanished. In 1990, Ferdinand Adolph Lange's great-grandson Walter Lange had the courage to relaunch the brand. Today, Lange crafts only a few thousand wristwatches per year, predominantly in gold or platinum. They are endowed exclusively with proprietary movements that are lavishly decorated by hand and assembled twice. With 66 manufacture calibres developed since 1990, A. Lange & Söhne has se-cured a top-tier position in the world of watchmaking. Brand icons such as the LANGE 1 with the first outsize date in a regularly produced wristwatch, and the ZEITWERK with its precisely jumping numerals display, rank among the company's greatest successes. Exceptional complications such as the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER, the TRIPLE SPLIT, and the so far most complicated model, the GRAND COMPLICATION presented in 2013 in a six-watch limited edition, reflect the manufactory's determination to achieve ever new pinnacles in its tradition-steeped horological artistry. Launched in 2019, the sporty-elegant ODYSSEUS marks the beginning of a new chapter for A. Lange & Söhne.

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Technical Specifications

Model: 1815 TOURBOGRAPH Perpetual "Homage to F. A. Lange" Honey Gold Edition

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  Reference: № 706.050  - Honey Gold



Movement
Lange manufacture calibre: 
L133.1
Number of movement parts / jewels: 684
(one of them the chain which consists of 636 parts) / 52 (including 2 diamond endstones)
Screwed gold chatons:  6
Movement measures:
Diameter: 32.0 millimetres; height: 10.9 millimetres
Escapement:  Lever escapement
Oscillator:
Shock-resistant screw balance, balance spring manufactured in-house
with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve:  36 hours when fully wound
Functions:
Hours and minutes; tourbillon; rattrapante chronograph;
perpetual calendar with date, day-of-week, month and leap-year display;  moon-phase display
Case
Honey gold
Diameter: 43.0 millimetres
Height: 16.6 millimetres
Dial: Honey gold, HONEYGOLD®, black rhodiumed
Hands: Yellow gold, blued steel, honey gold
Strap
Brown Hand-stitched alligator leather strap.
Buckle: Gold Lange prong buckle

Edition    Limited to 50 timepieces
This edition is available exclusively in the A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.

Price: 500.000*
*Recommended retail price in Germany including VAT. Non-binding quotation, prices subject to change.


#alangesoehne | #1815tourbograph | #tourbographperpetual | #175yearsglashuette | #finewatchmaking | #atraditionthatneverstandsstill

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Press Release - 2020
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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44-5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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