Tuesday, October 27, 2020

CYRUS – Klepcys GMT Retrograde Titanium Edition

 CYRUSKlepcys GMT Retrograde Titanium Edition 2020

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CYRUS EXTENDS ITS COLLECTION AND WELCOMES ITS LATEST CREATION: “KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE

A complete new automatic manufacture movement, a specifically designed case with modified diameter and thickness, and a useful, instantly readable and user-friendly function are just some of its interesting characteristics. 

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CYRUS Geneva, the independent Swiss Maison with its manufacture based in Le Locle, is moving forward from its explorations into watchmaking complications such as the moonphase, alarm and vertical tourbillon to introduce a newcomer for 2020. This timepiece will further join the Klepcys collection: the newly-developed automatic movement sees a “second time zone” function, housed in a titanium case which is smaller than existing models.

The result is the KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE, yet another work of art which lives up to the high qualitative standards of traditional watchmaking. It is the brainchild of Jean-François Mojon, a master watchmaker deemed one of the most highly skilled and prolific of the twenty-first century.
CYRUS has incorporated one of the most useful functions a watch can have into this latest creation. We live in an age when many travel around the world, be it for business or pleasure. And timepieces with GMT allow two time zones to be displayed at the same time: local time and home time.

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Traditionally indicated with the acronym GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), this function is named after the English town of Greenwich, through the middle of which runs the “0” meridian. From this reference point, other zones indicate time which is either ahead of (+) or behind (-)GMT. On January1st,1972, the GMT definition was replaced with the initials UTC (Coordinated Universal Time), even though GMT continues to be used. Now UTC represents a time benchmark worldwide.

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Designed to be a time instrument that is practical, easy to use and a trusty companion in our globetrotting adventures, the new KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE incorporates all the brand’s hallmark features, both in terms of cutting-edge technology and its futuristic, “unconventional” style.
This extraordinary timepiece encompasses all the features that set CYRUS creations apart: the functional double crown, the 3D architecture of the dial, the exceptional decoration and finishings are all combined with a reliable, newly-designed manufacture movement.  

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For the first time, the ergonomic cushion-shaped case with elongated lugs is waterproof to no less than 10 ATM. The case has been resized and now comes in a diameter of 42 mm. The watch is thinner and ultra-light on the wrist as it is made of grade 5 titanium. Available in three versions, in natural polished titanium, two-tone with a black DLC titanium bezel and all black DLC titanium, with its characteristic crowns set at 3h and 9h. 

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The 3h crown is easy to pull out and turn, thanks to the caoutchouc rubber ring that envelops the crowns and improves grip. The 9h crown is fix and incorporates a pusher for a quick set function.

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CYRUS remains loyal to its philosophy of “The Conquest of Innovation”, and imposes no limits where creativity is concerned. The KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE once again surprises with the exclusive style of the dial, and a state-of-the-art automatic movement crafted in its own ateliers.

The original three-dimensional structure of the dial, long a key feature of the Swiss Maison’s masterpieces, is achieved with overlapping layers that give the watch depth and a style all of its own.

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The first element is a transparent antireflective sapphire disc with Arabic luminescent numerals indicating the hours of local time . On the minutes ring each 5 minutes indicators are also luminescent.
The transparent sapphire crystal showcases the upper plate of the movement, which has an elegant sunray openworked pattern. The result is an appealing “squelette” effect which gives enthusiasts and collectors alike the chance to dive into the very heart of the watch and follow the harmonious movement of wheels and gears. The golden hue adds a further delicate colour contrast.

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 The display of the KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE is completed with a blue lacquer ring, with a luminescent indication of the 24-hour second time zone in even Arabic numerals. This is interrupted at 6h to make room for the small seconds.
The star of this subdial, which is adorned with the typical raised triangle embellishment and black PVD treatment, is the blue three-armed helix, the Cyrus logo; it has been given a luminescent finish, allowing the seconds to be read off.
The end result is an exquisite dial which is harmonious in its many details. The indications are intuitive and can be read off with ease.

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 During the design phase, CYRUS opted to set local time as the main time; it is displayed with the newly-designed, open-worked rhodium-plated hands.

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Now the two crowns come into play. In the first position, the crown at 3h is used to wind the movement. In the second position, it adjusts the hour and minute hands of local time. These rotate at the same time as the blue central retrograde hand with a luminescent triangular tip to indicate the home time. Subsequently, by pressing the push button of the crown set at 9h, the local time hand jumps by one hour each time it is pressed until it displays the desired local time. During adjustment, indications of the minutes and the home time remain unchanged. Thus adjusting to the correct time zone while travelling is made extremely simple. 

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KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE has been painstakingly designed. It is driven by a powerful customised “engine”which offers outstanding precision performance.  Working with his team of skilled watchmakers and constructors, Jean-François Mojon has developed the new CYR708 in-house automatic calibre. Designed to be robust and reliable, it is set apart by a design that lives up to the brand’s philosophy. Its annular balance wheel beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, achieving a power reserve of 55 hours.

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The sapphire crystal case back also makes it possible to admire the meticulous work of the skilled craftsmen, who decorate the anthracite grey NAC bridges with slightly curved sunrays in a satin  and microbillé finish. The single-block oscillating mass is openworked with a style which recalls the design on the plate as seen from the dial.

KLEPCYS GMTRETROGRADE comes complete with a customised black caoutchouc rubber strap with a central groove bearing the Cyrus symbol. It fastens with a folding customised clasp in titanium. 

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KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE is the perfect watch for globetrotters, but also for fans of exclusive watches, in search of a sophisticated time accessory made in just 50 pieces per version. 

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Ref. 539.507.TT.A (polished titanium)
Ref. 539.507.TD.A (polished titanium with black DLC bezel)
Ref. 539.507.DD.A (all black DLC titanium)

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Movement
Self-winding manufactured movement, calibre CYR708
Size: 38.00 mm Ø x 7.10 mm thickness
Number of parts of the complete movement: 278
Number of jewels:41
Frequency: 4 Hz
Vibrations per hour: 28,800
Power reserve: 55
hours (minimum)
One barrel with ratchet wheel, with “colimaçonage”finish and Cyrus logo
Swiss lever escapement
Annular balance wheel
Bridges: in anthracite grey NAC, decorated with slightly curved sunray pattern with satin  and microbillé finish
Single-block oscillating mass, openworked with a sunray pattern
Screws with polished head, bevelled edge and cut

Functions
Hours, minutes (local time)
Small seconds
Second time zone on 24 hours with retrograde hand (home time)

Case
Cushion-shaped case comprising 26 parts
Diameter: 42 mm excluding crowns
Thickness: 13.9 mm
Available in the following materials:
Polished grade 5 titanium
Two-tone in polished grade 5 titanium(case middle, lugs, crowns) and black DLC treated titanium bezel.
All black DLC grade 5 titanium
Crown at 3h: in position 1, it winds the movement; in position 2, it adjusts the time (hours and minutes of local time and time of the city of origin (home time). All three hands turn simultaneously.
Crown at 9h: each time the pusher is pressed, the local time hand moves forward one hour in a clockwise direction, leaving the minutes of the home time unchanged.
Decoration of crowns: engraved with the Cyrus logo, black caoutchouc rubber ring finished with small raised squares
Sapphire crystal on dial side: anti-reflective on both sides
Case back: sapphire crystal, closed with screws customised with the Cyrus logo
Waterproof: up to 10 ATM (100 m – 330 ft)

Dial
Three-dimensional dial on several levels
First level: transparent antireflective sapphire crystal disc with the hours indications with luminescent Arabic numerals (white SuperLuminova with blue light emissions)
Minute ring with luminescent five minutes indicators (white SuperLuminova with blue light emissions)
Second level:
Home time ring in blue lacquer, with luminescent  Arabic numerals and dots
Small seconds dial at 6 decorated with small raised triangles and treated with black PVD finish. The 5-second indicators are luminescent (white SuperLuminova with blue light emissions)
New design for hour and minute hands: rhodium-plated, luminescent and openworked
Small second hand: blue helix-shape (the Cyrus symbol) with one luminescent end
Blue hand for the second time zone (home time) with triangular luminescent tip

Strap
Black caoutchouc strap with central groove, customised with the helix, the Cyrus symbol
Folding customised clasp in titanium personalised with the Cyrus logo


Limited Edition - 50-Pieces


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Press Release - 2020
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Chemin des Aulx 18
1228 Plan-les-Ouates
Switzerland
Phone: +41 32 384 25 20
Email: info@cyrus-watches.ch
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Monday, October 26, 2020

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition 2020

 F.P.JourneYoung Talent Competition 2020

 Supporting the most talented young watchmakers in the world
Norifumi Seki wins F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020

Norifumi Seki, a Graduate from Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry in Tokyo, has won the F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020 for his Spherical moon and drum calendar pocket watch. 

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 Norifumi Seki, the winner of F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020

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Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmaking apprentices in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight.

F.P.Journe organizes the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realization, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction. The 2020 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

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The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2020 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

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The Spherical moon and drum calendar pocket watch created by Norifumi Seki features a multiple complications. First one is the large spherical moon-phase display. Made entirely of titanium, the moon phase is 20 mm in diameter and set via a recessed pusher in the case band. A third of the sphere is blue heated, while the other two thirds are coated in gold.

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Second complication is the vertical calendar display. Shown in two large windows, each containing two drums for the digits, the calendar is a simple one, with the month in the left window and date on the right; both can be set via the crown. Because the calendar display relies on drums, rather than discs, it is driven by gears perpendicular to the plane of the movement.

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The movement is a mix of parts made from scratch as well as components from tried-and-test calibres. The base plate, bridges, and mechanisms for the calendar and moon phase are made by Norifumi Seki. Most parts of going train, from mainspring to fourth wheel, are taken from the Valjoux 7750, long a favourite base movement for complications because of its robustness and reliable energy delivery. However, the escapement is from the Peseux 7040 because, the young watchmaker wanted to run the movement at 3Hz instead of 4Hz to make the balance wheel larger.

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He then produced the four-armed balance wheel and paired it with a hairspring from the 7750. As a result, the balance bridge still retains the Etachron regulator index of the 7750. The movement is coated in 18K yellow gold, and finished with perlage and Côtes de Genève. Both the balance bridge and escape wheel cock are hand engraved.

Norifumi also produced all of the external components of the watch. Though it appears to be engine turned, the dial was actually engraved on a lathe due to non-availability of a rose engine. But the dial colour was achieved the traditional way, having been silver plated using diluted sulphuric acid. The hands were also made from scratch with a combination of heat-blued steel and golden brass.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: CLASSIQUE

Case
18K yellow golden brass
Width: 4.7 cm
Height:
2.3 cm
Length:
6.3 cm
Total weight: 140 grams
Crown and bow also in 18K yellow golden brass

Movement
Coated in 18K yellow gold, with perlage and Côtes de Genève decorations, balance bridge and escape wheel cock hand engraved

Dial
Engraved guilloche silver plated
Moon: 20 mm diameter in titanium partly golden
Hands: heated blued steel and golden brass.

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Press release - 2020
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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