Thursday, June 4, 2020

MB&F and H. Moser & Cie.– Concept Watch Special Edition


MB&F × H. Moser & Cie.ENDEAVOUR Cylindrical Tourbillon and Legacy Machine LM101 Large Balance Power Reserve Concept Watch Special Limited Edition


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UNITED WE STAND AMONG independents
through UNPRECEDENTED COLLABORATION

In this crowning expression of the ties binding H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F for more than ten years, Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser have composed a duet recital in the form of an exceptional concerto for devotees of fine watchmaking.

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For the first time in its history, MB&F is contributing to a Performance Art endeavour flowing in both directions in an entirely reciprocal manner. Within this framework, the two Maisons are co-signing a pair of creations whose DNA blends the main characteristics of each.

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A story of friendship between two men against a backdrop of shared values, for the pleasure of building and sharing, and then of jointly presenting the results of this extraordinary project.

PROJECT ORIGINS

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F are both independent, human-scale Swiss companies. They are run by two passionate personalities, longstanding acquaintances who both appreciate and respect each other on both a personal and professional level. The brands have in fact been working together for more than ten years, with Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of H. Moser & Cie. – notably supplying MB&F's balance springs.

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It is therefore not surprising that MB&F asked Edouard Meylan to take part as a "friend" to help create a Performance Art Piece. The latest aspect of this collaboration lies in its being a two-way street.

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Maximilian Büsser says: "When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines.

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After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.” In a spirit of sharing and openness, while cultivating the notion of strength in unity, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have thus jointly created two models, available in several versions and issued in 15-piece limited series.

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This number is a nod to the 15th anniversary of MB&F as well as honouring the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie. By pooling their strengths, these two competing yet friendly brands are working to harness the combined strengths of talented artisans, entirely in keeping with the philosophy adopted by MB&F.

LM101 MB&F × H. MOSER

The Legacy Machine 101 distils the very quintessence of mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel, the power reserve and the passing of time.

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It is therefore no coincidence that MB&F has chosen to revisit this model – one of the purest and "simplest" in its collection – since it is indeed minimalism that guided the creation of the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser model. Like H. Moser & Cie. and the “back to basics” approach embodied in its Concept watch series, MB&F has chosen to remove its logo and return to its roots and indeed to the very origins of horology, when only the movements were signed.

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In the same understated spirit, it has abandoned the floating domed subdials to display the hours and minutes as well as the 45-hour power reserve by means of hands placed directly on the main dial. The fumé dials borrowed from H. Moser & Cie. can thus be expressed in complete freedom, also enhanced by a refined bezel. Four fumé dials have been chosen for the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser: Red fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Aqua Blue fumé and, of course, the famous Funky Blue fumé. Topped with a domed sapphire crystal, the case is made of steel, for only the third time in the history of MB&F.

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The mesmerising large suspended balance wheel continues to take centre stage, albeit completely redesigned on the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser in order to highlight the beauty of the fumé dials. This beating heart, which represents the quintessence of watchmaking in the eyes of Maximilian Büsser, has been fitted with a double balance spring produced by Precision Engineering AG. Thanks to this pair of matching balance springs, the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each spring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism in a continuous quest for perfection.

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In addition, the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting in optimised isochronism. Through the case back, the curved sapphire crystal reveals the ‘engine’ driving this timepiece. Unlike the base movement of the Legacy Machine 101, of which the finishes were determined by co-creator Kari Voutilainen, the aesthetics of the calibre that powers the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser is more contemporary, with a subtle NAC treatment to enhance its beauty. 


ENDEAVOUR CYLINDRICAL TOURBILLON H. MOSER X MB&F

H. Moser & Cie. has borrowed from MB&F the concept of three-dimensional movements, a strong element of the Geneva Maison’s identity, protected by a sapphire dome and featuring a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 o’clock.

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Benefiting from the expertise of its sister company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie. has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, the same as that developed by Precision Engineering AG for MB&F’s LM Thunderdome. Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical balance spring is reminiscent of a worm- or corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff.

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Commonly used in historical marine chronometers at the time, it offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. This gives it a significant advantage over the flat balance spring, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, despite the Philips or Breguet terminal curves which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the balance spring.

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Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and takes ten times longer to make than a traditional balance spring.

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Another reference to MB&F's identity lies in the tilted dials, which H Moser & Cie. has adopted for its hour and minute subdials. These are inclined at 40° so that the owner of the watch is the only one to whom it reveals the secret of time, and mounted on a conical gear train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other. As Edouard Meylan explains: "We have Moserized the MB&F universe by developing a sapphire subdial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our fumé dials.

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And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on the sapphire subdial, thereby underlining the personal character and intimate relationship binding it to its owner". Available in five different versions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F model comes in a steel case topped by Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue dials, all of the fumé variety.

FRUITFUL COOPERATION

Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser are delighted with this rewarding collaborative project, which has achieved results far exceeding their expectations. In addition to the beauty of the models created in tandem, two bodies of expertise and two sets of DNA have been blended and mutually enriched.

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The two different communities of the two Maisons have also pooled their skills in a wonderful spirit of openness and transparency. This experience leaves Edouard and Maximilian with a keen sense of coming back to a sense of pleasure: the pleasure of working together and of creating. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: LM101 MB&F × H. MOSER

Legacy Machine LM101 MB&F x H. Moser
Available in 4 limited editions of 15 pieces in stainless steel: Funky Blue fumé dial, Cosmic Green fumé dial, Red fumé dial and a special edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.

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Engine
Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F
Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement
Balance spring: Straumann® double hairspring
Balance frequency: 18,000 bph / 2.5 Hz
221 components
23 jewels
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative 19th century-style hand finishing throughout; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, NAC black bridges
Functions
Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
Large balance wheel suspended above the dial
Case
Available in 4 limited editions of 15 pieces in stainless steel 316,
including a special edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height: 16.0 mm
35 components
High domed crystal sapphire on top and box sapphire crystal on back,
both with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Dial
Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Red fumé or Aqua Blue fumé with sunburst pattern
Strap
Hand-stitched calfskin strap
Steel 316L and titanium folding buckle


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: ENDEAVOUR CYLINDRICAL TOURBILLON H. MOSER × MB&F

Endeavour cylindrical tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F is available in 5 limited editions of 15 pieces each in stainless steel: Funky Blue fumé dial, Cosmic Green fumé dial, Burgundy fumé dial, Off-White fumé dial and Ice Blue dial.

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Case
Steel topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 19.5 mm
Height without crystal sapphire: 9.4 mm
Crown at 9 o’clock, engraved with a “M
See-through sapphire crystal case back
Dial
Main dial: Funky Blue fumé, Burgundy fumé,
Cosmic Green fumé, Off-White fumé or Ice Blue fumé with sunburst pattern
Hours and the minutes displayed on a 40° vertically tilted sapphire dial at 6 o’clock
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, blued on the reference 1810-1203
Movement
Calibre HMC 810 three-dimensional automatic Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
Height: 5.5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
29 jewels
184 components
Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
Oscillating weight in 18-carat gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
Cylindrical hairspring
One-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o'clock with skeletonised bridges
Functions 
Hours and minutes
Strap
Hand-stitched black alligator leather
Steel folding buckle engraved with the Moser logo

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Press release - 2020
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050

FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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Wednesday, June 3, 2020

ZENITH – DEFY 21 ULTRAVIOLET

ZENITHDEFY 21 El Primero ULTRAVIOLET Titanium 44 - 2020


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ENITH EXPLORES A NEW SPECTRUM OF COLOUR WITH THE FIRST VIOLET CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT: DEFY 21 ULTRAVIOLET
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If all the colours that our eyes can perceive are to be considered as frequencies of visible light, then violet has the highest frequency of them all, beyond which is invisible ultraviolet light. It was only natural to pair this intense, energetic colour with the highest-frequency chronograph in regular production, the DEFY 21.

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In past centuries, violet was coveted as the most sought-after colour dye for garments, the production of which was a closely held secret by certain civilizations such as the Phoenicians.

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Its rarity and compelling beauty made it the stuff of royalty. Today, violet tones portray a sense of daring, confidence and whimsy, from sports cars to bespoke tailoring. Yet in the world of watchmaking, violet remains a rarity.

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A world-first in watchmaking, Zenith has treated an automatic chronograph movement in the regal, opulent tones of violet.

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Not just any chronograph, Zenith chose its revolutionary 1/100thof a second El Primero 21 chronograph calibre beating at an incredible frequency of 50Hz as the canvas for this visually and mechanically striking creation.

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Visible through the open dial, which features three grey chronograph registers and a grey flange ring, the vibrant violet movement is accentuated by the DEFY 21’s uniquely avant-garde movement conception and design with open, angular bridges.

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A white-tipped central 1/100th of a second chronograph hand makes a complete revolution above the dial in one second.

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Besides the DEFY 21 El Primero 50th Anniversary edition, which was only available as a box-set with two other watches, the DEFY 21 Ultraviolet is the first stand-alone DEFY 21 with an open dial paired with closed chronograph counters.

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Allowing the purple-treated bridges of the movement to truly stand out while providing a more striking contrast, the faceted 44mm case of the DEFY is given an entirely matte sandblasted finish, bringing out the darker metallic nuances of titanium.

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Complementing the tones of the open movement, which can shift from warm violet to cool purple tones, the black rubber strap features a violet insert that mimics the look of woven textile.

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ZENITH: TIME TO REACH YOUR STAR

Zenith exists to inspire individuals to pursue their dreams and make them come true – against all odds. Since its establishment in 1865, Zenith became the first watch manufacture in the modern sense of the term, and its watches have accompanied extraordinary figures that dreamt big and strived to achieve the impossible – from Louis Blériot’s history-making flight across the English Channel to Felix Baumgartner’s record-setting stratospheric free-fall jump.  

With innovation as its guiding star, Zenith features exceptional in-house developed and manufactured movements in all its watches. From the first automatic chronograph, the El Primero, to the fastest chronograph with a 1/100th of a second precision, the El Primero 21, as well as the Inventor that reinvents the regulating organ by replacing the 30+ components with a single monolithic element, the manufacture is always pushing the boundaries of what's possible. Zenith has been shaping the future of Swiss watchmaking since 1865, accompanying those who dare to challenge themselves and break barriers. The time to reach your star is now.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Collection: DEFY
 
Model:  DEFY 21 ULTRAVIOLET

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Reference: 97.9001.9004/80.R922

Additional name  Defy 21 ULTRAVIOLET 

    Unique Violet 1/100th of a second chronograph movement.
    Exclusive dynamic signature of one rotation per second.
    1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH - 5 Hz)
    1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH - 50 Hz).
    Special linear power reserve indicator.
    TIME LAB Chronometer certified.


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MOVEMENT 
Calibre: El Primero 9004, Automatic
Chronometer-certified by TIME LAB
Violet colored main plate on movement

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Dual regulating organ:
  • one for timekeeping (36,000 vph or 5Hz), 
  • one for the chronograph (360,000 vph or 50Hz)
Diameter: 32.8 mm)
Components: 293
Jewels: 53
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with violet colore
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre.
1/100th of a second chronograph functions. 
  • Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o'clock.
  • Small seconds at 9 o'clock,
  • Central chronograph hand, 
  • 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, 
  • 60-second counter at 6 o'clock
CASE
Material: Microblasted Titanium
Dimeter: 44 mm
Thickness: 15.60 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
DIAL & HANDS
Dial:  Special open dial with grey closed chronograph registers
Hour-markers: rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova®SLN C1
Hands: rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova®SLNC1
STRAPS & BUCKLES
Strap: Violet fabric effect strap. 
Buckle: Microblasted titanium double folding clasp


Price 13.400 CHF

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Press Release - 2020
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ZENITH | Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865
Rue des Billodes 34-36 | CH-2400 Le Locle
Minh-Tan-Bui
Tel. +41 32 930 65 59
Mobile +41 79 515 47 54
Email: minh-tan.bui@zenith-watches.com
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