Thursday, February 9, 2017

A. Lange & Sohne – TOURBOGRAPH Perpetual Platinum Edition


A. Lange & Söhne1815 TOURBOGRAPH Perpetual "Pour le Mérite" Tourbillon Platinum Limited Edition

The epitome of classic watchmaking

The fifth masterpiece in A. Lange & Söhne's "Pour le Mérite" series combines the fusée-and-chain transmission with a tourbillon, a chronograph, a rattrapante function and a perpetual calendar. The combination of these five complications makes the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" a peerless timepiece.


In October 1994, A. Lange & Söhne presented the first collection of the new era, including the legendary TOURBILLON "Pour le Mérite", the first wristwatch with a tourbillon and a fusée-and-chain transmission. It was followed in 2005 with a further model in which these two elaborate constructions were united: the TOURBOGRAPH "Pour le Mérite". But there was more: a chronograph with the rattrapante function made it the manufactory's most complicated watch at the time.

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Now, the movement has been endowed with a fifth complication. In the development phase, the integration of a perpetual calendar in the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" presented the engineers of the Saxon manufactory with a formidable challenge: to orchestrate the interaction of the complex mechanisms in such a way that mechanical conflicts or unwanted energy losses could be prevented.

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In this project, the perpetual calendar mechanism had to be built around the tourbillon. Consequently, only about two thirds of the movement surface were available, and this necessitated a redesign of the basic calibre. At the same time, the developers did not want to noticeably increase the height of the movement.

A classic concept

The TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" is the epitome of classic watchmaking: its hallmarks permeate all domains from design and engineering to consummate, flawless artisanship. The dial itself reflects the traditional approach in timekeeping. Arabic numerals, a railway-track minute scale, blued steel hands for the time and rhodiumed gold hands for the calendar as well as the cloverleaf arrangement of the subsidiary dials pay tribute to the famous A. Lange & Söhne pocket watches.

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Tradition also governs technical details such as column-wheel control for the chronograph and rattrapante mechanisms as well as the screw balance. Finally, it manifests itself in typical quality elements such as the two diamond endstones that suspend the tourbillon cage or the black-polished tourbillon bridge. The stately platinum case with a diameter of 43 millimetres is a fitting stage for this horological masterpiece.

Perpetual calendar

Of the 684 parts of the new L133.1 manufacture calibre, no fewer than 206 constitute the perpetual calendar with its analogue displays. It will correctly indicate the duration of each month until 2100. A one-time correction will be needed on the last day of February in this secular year. From then on, the calendar will again be correctly calibrated for the next hundred years. It has three subsidiary dials. The date at 12 o'clock and the day at 9 o'clock are indicated with rhodiumed gold hands.

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The month and leap year are both displayed at 3 o'clock. The upper half of the analogue date also accommodates the moon-phase display which is calculated to remain accurate for 122.6 years. Its deep-blue disc is made of solid gold. During the development of the calendar module to be built around the tourbillon, great emphasis was placed on space-saving architecture.

 Chronograph with rattrapante function

The development of highly complex chronographs and their meaningful interaction with other functions is among the Saxon manufactory's key skills. Apart from the two chronograph pushers on both sides of the crown, a third button at 10 o'clock modestly reveals that the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" deserves a place in the top-tier category of split-seconds chronographs. The fascinating function of the split-seconds mechanism can be observed in great detail with a look through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The precise control of the gold-plated chronograph hand and the blued rattrapante hand is handled by two column wheels. During a complete revolution of the 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock, as many lap times as needed can be stopped

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The combination of a perpetual calendar with a split-seconds chronograph is very rare. Power management is an especially challenging undertaking. In particular, the simultaneous use of several functions calls for mechanical ingenuity, for instance when the calendar indications advance around midnight and the stopwatch function is used at the same time. Assembling such a movement requires considerable experience and exceptional sensitivity when adjusting and harmonising the mechanisms.

One-minute tourbillon

In the way they flawlessly interact, the tourbillon and the fusée-and-chain transmission offset two disruptive phenomena in a mechanical movement: gravity and waning spring force. Thus, they contribute to improved rate stability and rate accuracy.

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The L133.1 movement that works inside the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" is already the tenth calibre with the delicately linked mechanism that overcomes the pull of gravity. The traditional black polish of the tourbillon bridge integrated in the dial imposes new challenges on the finisseurs because for the first time ever, this complex finishing technique is being applied to a curved surface.
Fusée-and-chain transmission

The results of A. Lange & Söhne's efforts to develop intelligent energy management systems for mechanical movements – and thus to compensate for the unavoidable torque loss of the mainspring barrel – include three different constant-force escapements as well as the fusée-and-chain transmission which was integrated in a wristwatch for the first time in 1994. It is the technical hallmark shared by all timepieces identified by the attribute "Pour le Mérite" in reference to the erstwhile Prussian order conferred for exceptional scientific merit.

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Via a fusée connected to the spring barrel with a chain, the force of the mainspring is delivered to the movement in constant increments thanks to the ingenious way in which the principle of levers is harnessed. A planetary gearing mechanism inside the fusée assures that the flow of power from the mainspring barrel to the escapement is not interrupted while the watch is being wound. The filigreed yet robust mechanism requires the utmost in attention as regards design, production, finissage, and assembly.

Perfection down to the last detail

The TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite" is being crafted in a limited edition of only 50 platinum-cased watches. The finish of the manufacture calibre complies with the highest standards of Saxon watchmaking artistry. Thermally blued screws, screwed gold chatons, bridges and plates made of untreated German silver and decorated with Glashütte ribbing and perlage as well as the hand-engraved chronograph bridge round out the highlights of the classic complication.

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Technical Specifications

Model: 1815 TOURBOGRAPH Perpetual "Pour le Mérite" Platinum Edition

Reference: 706.025  - Platinum


Movement
 Lange manufacture calibre: 
L133.1
Number of movement parts / jewels: 684
(one of them the chain which consists of 636 parts) / 52 (including 2 diamond endstones)
Screwed gold chatons:  6
Movement measures:
Diameter: 32.0 millimetres; height: 10.9 millimetres
Escapement:  Lever escapement
Oscillator:
Shock-resistant screw balance, balance spring manufactured in-house
with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve:  36 hours when fully wound
Functions:
Hours and minutes; tourbillon; rattrapante chronograph;
perpetual calendar with date, day-of-week, month and leap-year display;  moon-phase display
Case measures:
Diameter: 43.0 millimetres
Height: 16.6 millimetres
Case
Platinum 950
Dial: Solid silver, argenté
Hands:
Rhodiumed gold, blued steel and gold-plated steel
Strap
Black Hand-stitched alligator leather strap.
Buckle: Platinum Lange prong buckle

Limited edition50 watches


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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
Tel.: +49 35053 ; 44-5505
E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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Wednesday, February 8, 2017

CASIO – G-SHOCK G-STEEL Stainless steel GSTS110D

















CASIOG-SHOCK G-STEEL Stainless steel 52.4 mm - GSTS110D


G-SHOCK DEBUTS 
NEW G-STEEL TIMEPIECE
The New Color Addition Features Tough Solar Technology

Casio G-SHOCK expands their G-STEEL collection with the debut of a new color addition. The timepiece features face colors of black and gold and includes Neo-brite luminous, bold hands, and a stainless steel bezel and band. The model boasts tough solar capability, which extends battery life up to 8 months and allows the timepiece to utilize high-powered functions without further exposure to light.

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The G-STEEL collection is a refined timepiece for the active gentleman seeking G-SHOCK’s legendary performance and technology standards who also enjoys the look and feel of a metal timepiece. The new GSTS110D-1A9 is equipped with G-SHOCK technology, including 200M Water Resistance and Shock Resistance, a full-auto double LED light, World Time with 31 time zones that include 48 cities + UTC, 5 Daily Alarms, 1/100th second Stopwatch, Countdown Timer, and 12/24 Hour Formats, all in a 52.4 mm case.

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The GSTS110D-1A9 will retail for $350 USD, and will be available for purchase beginning November 2016 at standard G-SHOCK retailers, including select Macy’s, G-SHOCK.com, and the G-SHOCK NYC SoHo store

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Technical Specifications

Model: G-SHOCK G-STEEL
  •     Shock Resistant
  •     Double LED light
    LED light for the face
    (Full auto LED light, selectable illumination duration, afterglow)
    LED backlight for the digital display
    (Full auto LED light, selectable illumination duration, afterglow)
  •     Solar powered
  •     World time
    31 time zones (48 cities + coordinated universal time), daylight saving on/off
  •     1/100-second stopwatch
    Measuring capacity: 59'59.99''
    Measuring modes: Elapsed time, split time, 1st-2nd place times
  •     Countdown timer
    Measuring unit: 1 second
    Countdown range: 100 minutes
    Countdown start time setting range: 1 second to 100 minutes
    (1-second increments, 1-minute increments)
  •     5 daily alarms
  •     Hourly time signal
  •     Hand shift feature
    (Hands move out of the way to provide an unobstructed view of digital display contents)
  •     Battery level indicator
  •     Power Saving
    (display goes blank to save power when the watch is left in the dark)
  •     Full auto-calendar (to year 2099)
  •     12/24-hour format
  •     Button operation tone on/off
  •     Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month
  •     Regular timekeeping
    Analog: 2 hands (hour, minute)
    Digital: Hour, minute, second, pm, date, day
  •    Approx. battery operating time:
    8 months on rechargeable battery
    (operation period with normal use without exposure to light after charge)
    19 months on rechargeable battery
    (operation period when stored in total darkness with the power save function on after full charge)
  •     Module: 5445

Band Length: 145mm - 215mm
Size of case/total weight
GSTS100D 59.1 x 52.4 x 16.1mm / 184g

Band Length: 150mm - 205mm
Size of case/total weight
GSTS110D 59.1 x 52.4 x 16.1mm / 195g
GSTS110BD 59.1 x 52.4 x 16.1mm / 195

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www.GShock.com
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About G-SHOCK
CASIO’s shock-resistant G-SHOCK watch is synonymous with toughness, born from the developer Mr. Ibe’s dream of ‘creating a watch that never breaks’. Over 200 handmade samples were created and tested to destruction until finally in 1983 the first, now iconic G-SHOCK hit the streets of Japan and began to establish itself as ‘the toughest watch of all time’. Each watch encompasses the 7 elements; electric shock resistance, gravity resistance, low temperature resistance, vibration resistance, water resistance, shock resistance and toughness. The watch is packed with Casio innovations and technologies to prevent it from suffering direct shock; this includes internal components protected with urethane and suspended timekeeping modules inside the watch structure. Since its launch, G-SHOCK has continued to evolve, continuing to support on Mr. Ibe’s mantra “never, never give up”.
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Press Contact
Corinna Fromm Communication
Kleine Reichenstraße 6-8
20457 Hamburg / Germany
Tel.: +49 (0)40 / 8000 73 820
E-Mail: kontakt@corinnafromm.de
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Press Contact UK
Casio Electronics Co. Ltd.
Stephanie Weekes
Harp View,
12 Priestley Way,
London, NW2 7JD
Tel: + 44 20 8208 9558
E-Mail: stephaniew@casio.co.uk

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ANGELUS – U10 Tourbillon Calaveras


















ANGELUSURBAN U10 Tourbillon Calaveras - Unique piece

From the earliest days of its conception, the master model U10 Tourbillon Lumière was imagined as a piece of mechanical art, paying tribute to some of the most influential and forward-thinking designers from the 60s and 70s, such as Dieter Rams and Achille Castiglioni.

Now, Angelus is pushing the envelope even further by integrating striking visual art into this singular watch.

With its unique design and especially its vitrine-type construction, the U10 offers an extraordinary platform to showcase not only its oversized tourbillon, but also miniature works of wearable art. As such, Angelus will take on different themes from various artistic movements and integrate them with its U10.

The first unique piece from this Angelus U10 art collection pays tribute to the old tradition of Mexican Calaveras. These are part of a very ancient tradition of memento mori. Since Ancient Rome, Memento mori has been an important part of ascetic disciplines as a means of perfecting the character by cultivating detachment and other virtues, and by turning the attention towards the immortality of the soul and the afterlife. Symbolic reminders of mortality, what could have been a better theme to ornate the tourbillon watch displaying dead beat seconds than a mementos mori?

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The Calaveras are mainly used in the Mexican celebration of the Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos), where people remember and honor those who have passed on with calaveras, poems and other forms of symbolism. Above all, it is a celebration of life and its transient nature.


The U10 Tourbillon Calavera is a unique piece in stainless steel,
which launches the
Angelus U10 art collection.

A timepiece of glorious contrasts

Four years in the making, the U10 Tourbillon Calavera not only upholds the Angelus tradition of creating extremely inventive timepieces boasting finely-finished, in-house movements with long power reserves, it is also a timepiece of glorious contrasts.

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On one hand the U10 Tourbillon Calavera is classic haute horlogerie. Its dead beat seconds complication – where the second hand advances in full steps of one second – derives from 18th-century pocket watches; the movement bridges and plates are in traditional nickel-silver that is bevelled and polished; and the traditional 2.5Hz / 18,000 vph of the screwed balance with Breguet-overcoil is a throwback to some of Angelus’ early pocket watches.

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And yet, the modernist display, innovative engineering and state-of-the-art materials and finishing ensure that the U10 Tourbillon Calavera can equally be viewed as a paragon of cutting-edge, contemporary watchmaking.

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Flying tourbillon on full show thanks to deconstructed movement and duplex case

The configuration of the manual-winding calibre is decidedly avant-garde, with the tourbillon positioned far outside of the movement, displayed alone as a dazzling mechanical sculpture in its own sapphire crystal vitrine.

The generously-proportioned – 62.75 mm x 38 mm x 15 mm – case, which took over two years to develop, features no fewer than seven sapphire crystals. All the crystals are bevelled, polished and subtly protrude from the case, creating expressive three-dimensionality.

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Four of these crystals – including one wrapping 90° over the end of the case – surround the tourbillon, allowing unfettered views to the beating heart of the timepiece. The large windows also let light flood in and shine a spotlight on this mechanical centrepiece. The vitrine aspect of the tourbillon space is cleverly enhanced by light-absorbing, matte black PVD finish on the interior walls encasing the tourbillon.

The stainless steel used to make the case is BO-988 specific steel. This annealed steel is of a higher quality than the usual 316L steel found in timepiece cases because it contains fewer impurities, is less liable to corrode and is more biocompatible. Its finer grain size allows for a better standard of polishing and higher level of finish.

State-of-the-art movement materials, long power reserve and high precision

With its generous 16.25 mm diameter, the hand-polished tourbillon cage is crafted from weight-saving stainless steel, while titanium has been chosen for the tourbillon bridge due to its strength and shock-absorbing qualities. The flying tourbillon configuration does not need an upper supporting bridge and offers unimpeded views to the top of the regulator. The combination of nickel-silver, titanium and stainless steel in a watch movement is unique and especially the magenta lacquer for the bridge of the tourbillon cage.

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Supporting the two mainspring barrels (which are in series for better timekeeping precision) is a bridge featuring a high-tech laser-engraved, satin-finished, criss-cross pattern. The two ratchets are also laser-engraved and enamelled.

A large diameter one-minute tourbillon requires significant energy, which is amply supplied by the dual main spring barrels. When fully wound, the Angelus A100 calibre provides a very healthy 90 hours of optimal power. The two mainspring barrels are optimally sized in a special ratio for a flatter torque curve, which maximizes accuracy throughout for the full 90 hours.

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Indications and displays

The hour and minute hands – brushed finished, rhodium-treated and filled with blue lacquer – are actually set into the concave dial made of grey-tinted sapphire. Like the interior of the tourbillon vitrine, the walls of the dial recess have also been bead-blasted to a matte finish and then black treated. Tiny holes drilled into the dial at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and filled with Super-LumiNova create bright white markers.

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In a neat touch highlighting the meticulous thought that has gone into every aspect of the U10 Tourbillon Calavera, the dead beat seconds hand rotating flush with the top of the dial features a counter weight on its short end. Each passing second marked by the hand aligns perfectly with the radial white and yellow lines printed onto the dial.

While the dead beat seconds hand’s step-by-step motion is the result of a traditional horological complication, the stepped seconds is also reminiscent of quartz watches. Indeed, Angelus has deliberately sought to evoke the era of quartz watches, which also have stepped seconds.

Completing the indications on the side of the case is the intuitive linear power reserve featuring a rhodium-treated hand filled with blue lacquer.

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Technical Specifications

URBAN Collection

Reference: 0LUAS.B01A.C001F

Movement and Finishing
Calibre:  A-100, mechanical hand-winding tourbillon movement
Complications:  One-minute flying tourbillon
Jewels:  38
Dimensions:  52.10 mm x 30.40 mm
Thickness:  7.50 mm
Power reserve:  90 h, double barrel
Frequency:  2.5Hz / 18,000 vph
Tourbillon:  16.25 mm cage diameter,
Swiss lever escapement, screwed balance and hairspring with Breguet overcoil
Movement decoration: Nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with haute horlogerie finishing:
satin-finished main plate with laser engraved pattern, satin-finished bridges with chamfered and polished edges, plate dial side with sunray satin-finish, circular satin-finished wheels,
screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads, two laser-engraved and enamelled ratchets
Tourbillon finishing: bead-blasted and satin-finished titanium tourbillon bridge,
entire tourbillon cage with hand-chamfered and polished edges and either satin-finished or mirror-polished surfaces
Dial
Colour:  Translucent-grey coated concave sapphire and black outer ring
Double white (C1) Super-LumiNova dots at 12 o’clock
Single white (C1) Super-LumiNova dots at 3, 6 & 9 o’clock
Hour, minute & power reserve hands:
Brushed-finished, rhodium-treated, with blue lacquer
Dead beat seconds hand:  Magenta lacquered
Features and Indications
Hours, minutes, central dead beat seconds,
one-minute flying tourbillon, linear power reserve indication 
Case
Material: BO-988 specific annealed stainless steel,
bead-blasted and treated with black PVD on the inside
Dimensions: 62.75 mm x 38 mm
Thickness: 15 mm including sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals: 7 in total, treated with anti-reflective coating
Back: See-though sapphire crystal
Water-resistant: 30 m
Strap and buckle
Strap: Hand-stitched black alligator leather
Buckle: Stainless steel folding buckle
Limitation and reference
Limited edition:  Unique piece

Reference: 0LUAS.B01A.C001F

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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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