DeWitt – ACADEMIA Chronograph Unique Piece

DeWitt – ACADEMIA Chronograph Unique Piece - Robb Report 2014

DeWitt is unveiling an extraordinary technical innovation, the Academia watch, a unique piece. 

It was designed by Count Jérôme de Witt and his teams, at the request of Robb Report, for an impassioned watch collector for whom it will be made exclusively.

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Based on a vintage drawing from the personal collection of Jérôme de Witt, the calibre of the watch is unique, as is every component part. 

The elements of the movement have been redesigned, rebuilt and decorated by hand according to the traditional expertise and the very high level of finishing of the DeWitt manufacture.
This amazing watchmaking creation includes ten functions in a single watch: an unparalleled technical feat.

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-  Minute repeater
-  Chronograph
-  Reverse split-second flyback
-  Moon phase
-  Day/night indicator
-  Dual time-zone display
-  Automaton for chiming
-  Hours
-  Minutes
-  Central second

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Ten functions!

Including some that have been invented and added to the basic mechanica movement by DeWitt master watchmakers:

• - moon phase
• - dual time-zone display
• - day/night indicator

To perfect one of the purest and most complex complications, the chronograph and fly-back are activated by a single central push-piece.

The exceptional fly-back function is rare in watchmaking design, with the wheel of the fly-back located in the centre, turning around the chronograph wheel.

The second time zone function is regulated using a direct drive corrector that allows for optimal comfort and faster winding. 

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In total, between 500 and 600 watch parts make up this remarkable calibre.

The Academia case is decorated with the famous DeWitt imperial column motif. With a diameter of 46 mm, and water resistance to 30 metres, it will be available in 18-carat rose gold or platinum, according to the buyer's preference.

On the left side of the case is the repeater slide to activate the striking mechanism, which is set off at certain times through an ingenious and poetic automaton system.

On the upper part of the guilloché dial of the watch, at 12 o'clock, an entirely hand made mechanism opens a window when the minute repeater is engaged. 

The doors disappear and reveal, around the decorative music note, an animated motif that symbolically illustrates the propagation of sound.

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The doors close once more as soon as the chime stops.

The buyer of this exceptional piece will also be given the opportunity to adapt the colours and finishes of the dial of the piece, in concert with DeWitt's dial specialists, who will hand craft the piece in the manufacture.

The particularly refined finishes of the Academia Unique Piece watch, which can be seen through the sapphire case back, testify to the expertise of the artisan craftsmanship.

DeWitt is pleased and proud to have designed this exceptional watchmaking feat that awaits its owner, for 1’695’000 dollars for the platinum version and 1’650’000 dollars for the rose gold version.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: ACADEMIA Unique Piece

Reference : AC.UP.001

Movement
Calibre: Ref DW9901
Mechanical manually wound movement integrating 11
Diameter: 39.1 mm
Thickness: 3.8 mm
Vibrations: 18,000 vph
Balance: Bi-metallic screwed balance
Spiral: Blued Breguet spiral
Escapement: Swiss lever
Jewels: 35 minimum
Number of components: Estimated at 550, according to the final design specifications
Functions
Minute repeater that includes a mechanism(automaton) that is activated when the chime sounds and opens to reveal the movement of the racks as well as an animated module that represents the chime, chronograph, reverse split-seconds, dual time, moon phase, day/night indicator, tachymeter, hours, minutes, seconds
Case
Round case
Material: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Total thickness: 14.8 mm
Crown: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold polished crown, “W” signature
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws
Distance between lugs: 23 mm
Dial
Silvered guilloché dial, to be customised according to the client
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-worked hands in the shape of double- edged swords
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Wristband
Alligator leather
Buckle: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold triple blade folding clasp, polished, “W” signature

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PANERAI – LUMINOR 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic CERAMICA

OFFICINE PANERAI – LUMINOR 1950  3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic CERAMICA 44mm - PAM00580

THE NEW PANERAI FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH WITH AUTOMATIC CALIBER P.9100 IS EXECUTED IN BLACK MATT CERAMIC BASED ON ZIRCONIUM OXIDE

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It is a strongly sporting heart which beats within the Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Ceramica, the new Officine Panerai watch in which the classic quality of the design is masterfully integrated with the sophistication of the P.9100 manufacture chronograph movement and with the remarkable technical quality and design of the black ceramic case. 

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The essential lines of the case and dial are faithful to the unmistakable Panerai identity, being unaffected by the existence of the flyback function, which instantly zeroes the chronograph hands and restarts them without it being necessary to stop and zero them first. In the P.9100 calibre the blue chronograph seconds hand and the rhodium plated minute hand are centrally mounted, so that the dial carries only the continuous small seconds counter at nine o’clock, symmetrical with the date window.

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The push-pieces which control the chronograph functions are positioned at 8 o’clock (flyback, reset) and 10 o’clock (start, stop), thus leaving intact the outline of the lever device protecting the crown which helps make the case of the Luminor 1950 water-resistant to 10 bar (equivalent to a depth of about 100 metres).

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The material of the Luminor 1950 case, 44 mm in diameter, is a synthetic ceramic based on zirconium oxide, which is up to five times harder than steel but substantially lighter in weight, as well as exceptionally resistant to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures. Technologically it is a very advanced material which is complicated to synthesise. It is created by a long, delicate process which transforms zirconium powder into a black ceramic, with a matt finish, remarkably even and pleasant to the touch. Every component of the case is individually moulded and undergoes successive stages of working and firing, first at a low temperature (about 100 °C) and then at a higher temperature (up to 1500 °C), for about three days.

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The process is concluded with the finishing stage, crucial for ensuring that the dimensions and proportions of all the components are absolutely perfect, culminating in the final bead blasting which gives it an even, matt finish. On the back of the case a large porthole in sapphire crystal reveals the P.9100 manufacture movement, the first chronograph calibre with automatic winding completely developed and made in the Officine Panerai manufacture.

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The calibre has the typical characteristics of a top-ofthe-range chronograph, such as the column wheel and the vertical clutch. It has two spring barrels connected in series which provide a power reserve of three days, a bidirectional rotor which winds the springs of the two barrels, and a variable inertia balance wheel which oscillates at 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz). Fitted with the device for instantly zeroing the seconds, the P.9100 calibre consists of 302 components and is 13¾ lignes in diameter and 8.15 mm thick.

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The Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Ceramica (PAM00580) is supplied with a natural untreated leather strap and a second strap made of rubber.

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The buckle is in titanium, a light, strong, hypo-allergenic material to which a special resistant black coating has been applied so that it matches the appearance of the watch, and it is easily replaceable using the screwdriver supplied.

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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS
 
Model: LUMINOR 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic CERAMICA – 44mm

 

Reference: PAM00580.

Unique edition of 500 pieces

Movement: 
Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9100 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai,
• Power reserve of 3 days
• 302 components
• 37 jewels
• 13¾ lignes in diameter
• 8.15 mm thick
• Two spring barrels
• Column wheel
• Vertical clutch
• Oscillation frequency 4 Hz
• Incabloc® anti-shock device 
Functions:  
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, 
Flyback chronograph, seconds reset.
Case: Diameter 44 mm, black ceramic. 

Back: See - through sapphire crystal

Bezel: Matt black ceramic.
Device protecting the crown: Matt Black Ceramic (protected as a trademark).
Dial:  
Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. 
Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds and minutes hands.
Crystal: Sapphire, made from corundum, 2.5 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres).
Strap: 
Calf Assolutamente Dark Brown, Beige, STD, 24/22, BA,
Luminor - Luminor 1950 44mm, Radiomir 1940 45mm.
Buckle: Trapezoidal matt titanium with black coating, 22mm,
Luminor 44-47 mm, Radiomir 45-47-48 mm and Radiomir 1940 47 mm.



* The trademark Velcro® and Coramid® are notproperty of Officine Panerai
*Officine Panerai is not the owner of the Glucydur® and KIF Parechoc® trademarks.

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HUBLOT – BIG BANG Unico "Magic Gold" Chronograph Limited Edition

HUBLOT – BIG BANG Unico "Magic Gold" Chronograph Limited Edition NEW

This watch features probably the most scratch-resistant gold bezel ever designed: it can only be machined using diamond.

It is the perfect fusion of respect for tradition and 20th century creativity.
Pure Hublot DNA. The fusion of a revolutionary material –the famous Magic Gold, which is the world's only scratch-resistant gold, certified as 18K and developed by Hublot – and the iconic design of the BIG BANG, with its Manufacture Chrono: the UNICO.

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Three years after Hublot unveiled its celebrated Magic Gold - still the only scratch-resistant gold - a noble material protected by patents, certified as 18 carats by the Central Office for Precious Metals Control, and developed by Hublot in Switzerland alongside the prestigious EPFL (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology), several months of fine-tuning took place in the manufacture to machine the famous alloy.

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Hublot's gold - Magic Gold - is the hardest in the world, and by some margin: it can only be successfully machined using diamond. Its hardness of almost 1000 Vickers eliminates the traditional weak point of gold and its alloys, which are very easily scratched. It is worth noting that "standard" well-designed 18 carat gold is only rated at 400 Vickers, with most hardened steels at around 600 Vickers.

Movement  HUB  1242  UNICO

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Since November 2011, when Magic Gold was unveiled to the world's press, Hublot has equipped itself with the means to produce this material in-house from start to finish thanks to its high-tech foundry at the Nyon Manufacture, which is home to the ceramic sintering and high-pressure metal casting processes.

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As you are probably already aware, this revolutionary material is a fusion of 24 carat gold (nature's ultimate noble material) and the latest high-tech materials expertise. Components made from this material are produced using a complex process: A boron carbide powder is pre-formed in moulds very similar in shape to that of the finished parts, in this case the watch's bezel.

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The pre-formed powder is then hardened at a very high temperature, creating a rigid, porous structure. After this operation, 24K gold alloyed with 3% molten liquid gold is injected under very high pressure with inert gas at a high temperature, allowing the metal to fill the ceramic pores and creating a "fusion" of the two to produce Magic Gold.

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Almost three years of collaboration and research have gone into achieving this impressive result: a completely new type of gold, an almost inalterable precious metal which retains its own characteristics. The first watches made from Magic Gold were presented at BaselWorld2012 in a very limited Big Bang Ferrari edition which reflected the shared DNA of the 2 brands: Exclusivity, innovation and technology.

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Hublot has now decided to produce the Big Bang Unico with a bezel in Magic Gold...naturally. The bezel is indeed one of the components most susceptible to scratches. Its unique, instantly recognisable colour and mechanical properties will be of particular interest to enthusiasts.

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Technical specifications

Reference 411.CM.1138.RX
Case
Diameter: 45.5 mm,
Made from micro-blasted black ceramic with polished sides
Bezel
Polished Magic Gold
6 H-shaped black PVD treated titanium screws, countersunk, polished & locked
Crystal
Sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective coating and gilt Hublot logo
Bezel Lugs:   Black composite      
Lateral inserts: Black composite      
Crown    
Black PVD titanium with Hublot logo and black overmoulded rubber      
Push-pieces:  Black PVD  titanium      
Case-back
Sapphire crystal with interior/exterior anti-reflective treatment    
Dial
    Matt black varnished skeleton     
    Red varnished minute track     
    Satin-finished gilt counter ring at 9 o'clock (small second)     
    Satin-finished gilt counter ring at 3 o'clock (chronograph minute)     
    Gilt  plated  indices  with  black  Superluminova™    
Hands    
Satin-finished  gilt  plated  with  black  Superluminova™   
Gilt plated and red varnished chronograph hand    
Movement
 HUB  1242  UNICO  movement  with  black  PVD  treatment,
Developed  and manufactured in-house by Hublot Automatic flyback chronograph with column     
 wheel and double clutch visible on the dial side  
Date: Dark grey window at 3 o'clock      
Oscillating weight: Black PVD coating      
Power reserve: Approximately 72 hours    
Strap material
Structured, ribbed black rubber.
Interchangeable system.
Clasp: Black PVD titanium deployant buckle with black ceramic inserts

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AUDEMARS PIGUET – Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Reseach – Episode 1

AUDEMARS PIGUET – Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Reseach – Episode 1 NEW


Pre-SIHH 2015

Acoustic Research – Episode 1
The sound awakens

Exceptional engineering and the power of sound merge in one of the most innovative concept watches created by a Swiss haute horlogerie watchmaking house. The result of an in-depth eight-year sound research programme with three patents pending, this new Royal Oak Concept watch, a unique prototype, will be unveiled by Audemars Piguet at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2015 (SIHH) in Geneva 

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 A HIGH-DEFINITION ACOUSTIC MASTERPIECE

Engineered within Audemars Piguet’s acoustic research lab, this new Royal Oak Concept is the first chiming watch so acoustically considered as to become a sound concept in its own right. It has been sonically developed through an ongoing acoustic study programme in collaboration with the EPFL (Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne) and it took three years to transfer that technological study into a watch concept. The result is scientifically defined sonic targets for watchmakers to measure and attain the ‘perfect’ minute repeater sound at a volume level never achieved before.

By applying the principles of stringed instrument making, Audemars Piguet has made a breakthrough in the acoustic quality of chiming watch technology and significantly enhanced sound transmission. In parallel, the Manufacture has innovated to overcome the necessary restrictions of water-resistance, which naturally dampens volume, with creative solutions increasing sound intensity. Finally, to further improve sound perception, Audemars Piguet developed a new – almost silent – striking mechanism regulator. The result? The volume, pitch, tones and harmony of sound in a modern water-resistant minute repeater watch are all scientifically enhanced.

For the first time in the history of chiming wristwatches, this timepiece isn’t a minute repeater simply meant for the confidential use of its wearer. Instead, its unique sound becomes a powerful experience to be shared.

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The family-owned watchmaker took a passionate as well as a technological approach to the study programme, engaging a carefully chosen community of researchers, including watchmakers, artisans, technicians and academics. The inner working of musical instruments was explored by a stringed instrument maker, an esteemed academic of the Geneva conservatory contributed on the subject of perceived sound, and an engineer from EPFL worked to improve sonic quality. Each added to the texture of the research programme, preventing it from becoming a simple academic exercise and highlighting sound as an expressive tool.

This new piece is a milestone in Audemars Piguet’s rich history of creating inventive, masterful and unique concepts: it breaks the rules of chiming watches by mastering sound.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

MOVEMENT 

Hand-wound Manufacture movement with minute repeater, 

Tourbillon and columnwheel chronograph 

Total diameter 29.90 mm (13 ¼ lignes) 

Minimal guaranteed power reserve > 48 h 

Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations / hour) 

CASE 

Titanium case, 

Titanium bezel, titanium push piece guards. 

Diameter: 44 mm 

Water Resistance: 20 m 

DIAL 

Black dial, black counters, 

Royal Oak concept hands with luminescent coating. 

STRAP 

Black rubber with titanium folding buckle 

FUNCTIONS 

Hours and minutes 

Chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand, 

30-minute counter (at 3 o’clock) 

Minute Repeater

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MANJAZ – Premium Apollo Skeleton

MANJAZ – Premium Apollo Skeleton NEW


Manjaz extends an invitation to dive into the mechanics of its latest creation, transforming watchmaking technique into a design feature.

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The beating heart of the watch, its movement is clearly visible thank to the sculptural architecture of the dial mingling lines and curves to accentuate the ethereally light overall impression. A contemporary orchestration of a classically elegant timepiece, Manjaz Premium Apollo Skeleton captures time and showcases it in a resolutely graphic composition.

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Mechanical automatic movement, skeleton SW200 calibre. Hours, minutes, seconds.
Steel case with pink gold PVD-plated bezel and crown. Chestnut brown leather strap.
Indicative retail prices: CHF 1,800.- USD n.a. € n.a.

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Technical specifications

Movement

Mechanical automatic, 

Skeleton SW200 calibre, 

28,000 vib/h, 25 jewels, 

40-hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds

Case

Steel, 41 mm
Steel bezel and crown, with or without pink gold PVD plating 

Sapphire crystal and back 

Water-resistant to 50 metres

Dial

Structured with grey and silver-toned elements 

Openworked hands 

Three large silver-toned Roman numerals

Bracelet/strap

Chestnut leather or black leather strap, or steel or two-tone steel bracelet with folding clasp

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BRACELET Black, Rubber strap ------------------------------- ------------------------------------ www.swisstime.ch --------------------------------------- -------------------------- BY EMAIL aviator@aviatorwatch.ch BY TELEPHONE Office : +41 32 466 8015 Fax :+41 32 466 8018 --------------------------------------------

Copy n Win at: http://bit.ly/copyandwin

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A. Lange & Söhne – RICHARD LANGE 1 “20th Anniversary”

A. Lange & Söhne – LANGE 1  “20th Anniversary”

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20 Limited Edition sets of A. Lange & Söhne’s design icon

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On the occasion of the 20^th birthday of the LANGE 1, the eminent Saxon brand presents the LANGE 1 “20^th Anniversary” watch set. It consists of the LANGE 1 and the LITTLE LANGE 1. The two models symbolise the significance of spending time together. The design of the two watches is gracefully balanced, like two harmonising voices in a duet. 

 A. Lange & Sohne – RICHARD LANGE 1 “20th Anniversary”

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Every big event has a magic moment. The introduction of the LANGE 1 at the presentation of A. Lange & Söhne’s first wristwatch collection in Dresden on 24 October 1994 was such a moment. Those who attended the event will have noticed its historical significance. With its striking design, technical innovations such as the outsize date and the three-day movement as well as the perfection with which it was crafted, it became the face of the brand and the benchmark for many further developments.

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The manufactory is commemorating the 20^th anniversary with five limited-edition watch pairs consisting of the Lange 1 and the Little Lange 1, equipped with guilloched golden dials. Both models incorporate Lange’s L901.0 manufacture calibre.

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By coincidence, the movement has as many parts as a year has days – 365. The watches differ in diameter: 38.5 millimetres for the Lange 1 and 36.1 millimetres for the Little Lange 1. The ladies’ model features a precious bezel set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds.

A. Lange & Sohne – RICHARD Little LANGE 1 “20th Anniversary”

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The sets are available in the following case/dial combinations: platinum/black, platinum/rhodié, white-gold/blue, pink-gold/argenté and pink-gold/black. Each of these different sets of the LANGE 1 “20^th Anniversary” is limited to 20 pairs as expressed by the hand-engraved “20” on the balance cock.

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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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Ulysse Nardin – MARINE Lady DIVER Gold

Ulysse Nardin – MARINE Lady DIVER Gold NEW

Lady Diver in gold – with grace and substance

A picture of elegance in sport, appearing exquisite in any situation the Lady Diver leaves nothing to be desired.

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A fine jewelry watch and reliable diving instrument, the Lady Diver is self-winding with the UN-815 caliber steering the hours, minutes and seconds, as well as the date at the 6 o’clock position. She has a power reserve of 42 hours and is water resistant to 100 meters.

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The Lady Diver is offered in 18-karat gold and accompanied by a durable rubber strap ideal for endless activity.

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Inspired by all things marine, Ulysse Nardin’s journey in haute horology began on the sea. Decade after decade, the manufacturer shares its passion for the ocean through its timepieces, and the iconic Lady Diver is no exception, boasting a nautical past paired with modern femininity.

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Technical Specifications

Reference: 8156-180E-3C/10 Cool White dial rubber strap

Reference: 8156-180E-3C/12 Smoky Black dial rubber strap

Movement:
Caliber 11½" UN-815
Power reserve: Approximately 42 hours
Winding: Self-winding
Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds
Date positioned at 6 o’clock
Case:
18 ct Rose Gold
Dial: Black/ White dial, 12 diamonds
Diameter: 40 mm
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel, 12 diamonds
Crown: Screw-down security crown
Total Diamonds: 54 diam, 0.685 ct
Water-resistance: 100 m
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Strap:
Exclusive rubber strap and deployant clasp.
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