Tuesday, December 17, 2024

SIMON BRETTE – Chronometre Artisans “Rose Gold” Edition

SIMON BRETTEChronomètre Artisans “Rose Gold” Edition 2024

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A piece that combines watchmaking art and exceptional materials in a captivating balance between light and darkness.

Beauty born from contrast: Simon Brette unveils the “Rose Gold” edition of the Chronomètre Artisans

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Simon Brette unveils the “Rose Gold” edition of his iconic Chronomètre Artisans timepiece: a precious harmony between the brilliance of rose gold and the depth of intense black, enhanced by exceptional details. This limited edition embodies the quintessence of fine watchmaking.

THE “ROSE GOLD” EDITION,
A TIMEPIECE FULL OF CONTRASTS

For this edition, Simon Brette presents a piece that combines the art of watchmaking with exceptional materials in a fascinating balance between light and darkness.

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The case of this rare creation is crafted in Au750 rose gold, a noble material that elegantly dialogues with the “butterfly”-shaped dovetail, the brand’s signature element made of white gold. To unify this composition, many components are also crafted in rose gold, creating a subtle and homogeneous continuity. This search for harmony continues inside, where the 5N gold bridges amplify the brilliance and depth of the movement, revealing a hypnotic mechanical ballet.

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Carefully machined, the solid rose gold (5N) dial is then hand-engraved and covered with a dense black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating, chosen for its great brilliance and resistance. This technical coating, similar in nature to diamonds while retaining the sparkling properties of graphite, thus brings incomparable depth and visual intensity to the black dial, in powerful contrast with the warmth of the gold components.

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The captivating decoration of the dial, once again created by the artist Yasmina Anti, pays tribute to excellent craftsmanship. Named “Battle”, this three-dimensional mosaic with shimmering reflections is a prodigious fusion between the motifs of the “Dragon Scales” and “Tiger Claws” decorations of previous editions, creating a unique graphic work in relief.

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The “Battle” decoration of the dial, a three-dimensional mosaic with shimmering reflections, creates a unique graphic work.

As for the minute disc, it appears encircled and is decorated with pad-printed numerals in white lacquer, creating a clear and intense contrast. The hands have been redesigned to offer optimal readability, while preserving their two-tone elegance in keeping with the other components of the timepiece. 

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Particular care has been taken to harmoniously combine the subtle grey of the steel with a rose gold PVD finish, the thin layer of which is removed from the upper surface by block polishing, giving a refined and modern contrast.

THE CHRONOMÈTRE ARTISANS:
AN ODE TO EXCEPTIONAL ARTISANSHIP

Since its debut, the Chronomètre Artisans timepiece - which received the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève “Horological Revelation” award with its Souscription edition - has established itself as a benchmark in fine watchmaking. 

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Through contemporary lines inherited from the past, the distinctive design of the timepiece seeks to combine elegance and audacity. The Chronomètre Artisans reveals a unique movement with complex mechanisms and remarkable decorations made by hand, the fruit of very high-level artisanal expertise.

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Each component of the watch has been meticulously orchestrated to create a play of light, contrasts and volumes. This know-how enhances the visual depth of the watch, both on the front and back of the Chronomètre Artisans, demonstrating uncompromising watchmaking mastery.

A BRAND BETWEEN
INNOVATION, TRADITION,
AND EXCELLENT CRAFTSMANSHIP

Simon Brette ceaselessly pushes the boundaries of watchmaking art, combining technical innovation and aesthetic perfection. Each creation is the result of a harmonious dialogue between technicality and art, raising the bar to its highest level.

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In bold contrast to the warmth of the rose gold, the dial sports a deep, intense black treatment.

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Beauty is born from contrast. In the “Rose Gold” edition of the Chronomètre Artisans, the deep black of the dial highlights the brilliance of the rose gold, while the latter warms the shimmering darkness of the DLC coating. Simon Brette has created a watchmaking work where each detail magnifies the other, creating a powerful and incredible visual symphony.

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Calibre SBCA, a Contemporary Chronometer Movement

Simon Brette began designing his first watch from the inside out, starting with the movement. Conceived as a classical chronometer, Simon opted for a visually pure and symmetrical construction with a large prominent balance wheel. 

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Held by a single straight rounded bridge crafted in non-magnetic grade 5 titanium, the large balance wheel beats at a traditional rate of 2.5 Hz, similar to historical marine chronometers that used a large diameter/high inertia balance wheel coupled to a low beat rate. All the steel parts adjacent to the balance wheel are crafted in Phynox, a non-magnetic steel alloy.

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The balance wheel of the Chronomètre Artisans is fitted with a hairspring featuring a Breguet overcoil and adjustable inertia blocks for fine adjustment of the poise, serving to slightly increase or decrease the frequency and amplitude at which the balance oscillates.

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 For precise time-setting, the movement features a stop-second mechanism in the form of a single flexible “S”-shaped arm, which engages via a sliding pinion to contact the balance wheel rim in order to stop it from oscillating while the time is set.

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To offer a unobstructed view of the balance wheel, the third and fourth wheels are lowered to the dial side. The mirror-polished escape wheel and pallet lever feature a completely new design with counter-pivots. These are positioned to enable a watchmaker access without having to remove the balance wheel. Exuding more contemporary tones, the three-quarter bridge is decorated with a grained texture and finished in an anthracite ruthenium tone. When fully wound, main-spring barrels, having mirror-polished concave surfaces, deliver a healthy 3-day power reserve. In a nod to chronometers from the golden era of watchmaking, the ratchet and crown wheel feature “wolf teeth” gearing.

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The winding mechanism of the Chronomètre Artisans is a technical highlight that can be seen, heard and felt. Using an innovative system that Simon developed while he was studying engineering, the click is a contemporary and pragmatic solution to a rarely revisited component. This innovative click replaces the multiple components usually found in conventional movements. The Chronomètre Artisans' click is both more robust and reliable compared to a conventional click as it also provides a much more responsive feel when winding the movement. A compliant monolithic mechanism integrated in the crown wheel, the winding mechanism further enhances the symmetrical aspect of the movement. 

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The crown wheel is one of the most complex components to produce in the Chronomètre Artisans' movement and was developed from a deep understanding of micromechanics. It comprises three different types of gear-cutting: wolf teeth in connection with the ratchet wheels, vertical teeth which engage the winding pinion, and internal teeth ensuring the paw meshes which engage in only one direction during winding.

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Perhaps the most visually distinctive components found throughout the Chronomètre Artisans are the amazing screws. Simon wanted to give these screws his personal touch, so the surfaces were deeply concave and then mirror polished to perfection. 

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This provides visual depth because, from a distance, the heads look domed rather than concave. The movement’s screws are fixed into solid gold chatons, providing visual contrast and emphasising the three dimensionality of the movement.

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The rest of the movement is similarly superlative in execution, where one can admire the impeccable finishing and attention to detail in both the form and execution of the myriad of components. 

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The finely hand-chamfered and polished edges of the three-quarter and individual titanium bridges have all been entirely mirror-polished, as well as the edges of the gear spokes and inner rims, the chatons, and even the pinions. 

AN EDITION THAT IS
A VICTIM OF ITS OWN SUCCESS

As an independent watch brand, the process of allocating watches begins before their design, well before their presentation to the public. The limited edition “Rose Gold” of the Chronomètre Artisans, which will be officially presented to the public on Monday, December 16, 2024, was a victim of its success: thus, the 50 pieces (whose production spans 4 years) found buyers among the hundreds of collectors who were able to show their interest to the brand.

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However, the pieces of the next upcoming editions of the Chronomètre Artisans are still being allocated.

A LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES

The “Rose Gold” edition will ultimately be limited to 50 pieces. This decision is in line with the brand’s values of pushing excellence in all stages of manufacturing its timepieces, to produce unique, exclusive, extremely high-quality and demanding pieces. This exceptional craftsmanship thus advocates the search for perfection in limited quantities.

About Simon Brette: A Destiny of Independence

Simon Brette’s sense of entrepreneurship and independence runs in the family. As far back as he can remember, Simon’s parents and his siblings led their lives in pursuit of their convictions and passions rather than comfort and stability, often taking the riskier and less traveled road rather than enjoying the comforts of a more monotonous life.
Born and raised in Auvergne, a historical mountainous region in central France, Simon’s father was a carpenter who hand-crafted unique pieces to his own designs. From watching the pleasure and pride his father took in his work, as well as the challenges he faced as an independent craftsman, little did Simon realize at the time that it would become one of his greatest sources of inspiration.
After completing his studies to become an engineer in 2011, Simon joined renowned watchmaker Jean-François Mojon’s movement conception and development company Chronode, where he spent years as a technical constructor working on some of the most ground-breaking calibres in contemporary watchmaking.
Simon later went on to join the avant-garde watch brand MCT as a project manager responsible for bringing the brand’s unprecedented time display concepts to reality. Finally, Simon joined MB&F as Development Project Manager, where he was responsible for the management and implementation of movement concepts from R&D to production.
After the birth of his daughter in June 2021, Simon decided to embark on a new chapter in his career, where his convictions about artisanship and human values in watchmaking could be expressed in a collaborative horological project. Chronomètre Artisans Souscription Edition bares the project's first fruit.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

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 Model:   Chronometre Artisans Rose Gold “Battle” Dial Edition

CASE
ARCHITECTURE

• Caseband with embedded gold brancards, screwed bezel and caseback.
MATERIAL  • Au750 rose gold
DIMENSIONS
• Diameter: 39.00 mm
• Height: 10.50 mm
• Total length: 45.00 mm
• Distance between lugs: 20.00 mm
CRYSTAL
• Sapphire crystal with anti-refection treatments above and below crystal to minimise scratches.
WATER RESISTANCE • Water resistant to 30 meters
DISPLAY
DIAL
• Red gold coated with an intense black DLC treatment
• Hand engraved, decoration named “Battle
• Top face circular grained
• Hand  polished anglage and straight grained flanks
HANDS
• Two-tone stainless steel hands coated with a 5N gold PVD coating
• Mirror polished top face
• Rounded and hand polished anglage
MOVEMENT
• Manual winding: 45 rotations of crown
• Ruthenium treated: 24 rubies
DIMENSIONS
• Diameter: 33.30 mm
• Casing diameter: 32.70 mm
• Overall height: 7.80 mm
• Height of winding stem: 3.00 mm
• Diameter of winding stem: S1.20 mm 
BALANCE
• Variable inertia balance with adjustment weights
• Hairspring with Breguet overcoil
• Adjustable stud holder
• Free sprung balance
• Greiner collet
• Geneva style stud
• Frequency: 18'000 a/h (2.5 Hz)
• Inertia: 40 mg/cm²
• Lift angle: 52°
AMPLITUDE
• 0 h flat: 310°
• 24 h flat: 280°
FEATURES
• Manual winding
• 2 barrels in parallel
• Two-position winding stem (winding and setting)
• Time setting in position 2
• 90° anchor fork
• 15 tooth escape wheel
INDICATIONS
• Central hours and minutes
• Small seconds at 9:15 o’clock
POWER RESERVE 72 hours (±5 hours)
DECORATION
• High-end decorations made by hand
• Rose gold bridges with hand graining, drawing and chamfering
• Concave screw heads mirror polished and set in gold chatons
• Pins and screws hand polished
• Wheels with flat teeth, hand polished anglage and hand polished faces
• Steel components mirror polished
• Watch number hand-engraved in two-tone finish on the plate
NUMBER OF PIECES
• Movement without dial: 194
• Cased with strap: 226
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Hand wound mechanical movement, 33.30 mm
diameter x 7.80 mm high, 2.5 Hz/18’000 a/h, large diameter balance wheel with visible gearing.
Bridges and chatons in rose gold.
🔰 Edition of ✅only ❱❱❱ 50 pieces ⚠️Already sold-out.
🔴 Price: in excess of  CHF 85,000 / US $ 64,500  💰
 
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Contact
Simon Brette
Owner & CEO

Mobile: +41 79 600 17 60
Office: +41 22 342 48 20
sb@simonbrette.com
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