Parmigiani Fleurier – TONDA Métropolitaine Sélène

Parmigiani Fleurier – TONDA Métropolitaine Sélène Moon Phase NEW

Mysterious and captivating, the moon takes pride of place in the Métro collection

In presenting the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène, Parmigiani Fleurier is dedicating a ladies' piece to the depiction of the moon phases, and at the same time adding a new movement entirely produced in its workshops to its range. 

A LUNAR PROCESSION ACROSS THE DIAL

With its two bronze-coloured engraved moons, which appear and disappear behind the wisps of a cloud, the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène corresponds to the typical moon phase model. Although seemingly classic, on closer observation it reveals a series of refined features, giving this piece touches of distinction which make it unique.

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For instance, the fact that the moon is not golden, but actually russet, possessing that glow specific to exceptional nights. Or the fact that its surface is made up of craters – known as lunar seas – obtained by successively layering transfers and involving great artisanal complexity. More than a simple depiction, this is an attempt to embody the moon, which appears in order to truly enchant the wearer.

However, the real tour de force and source of this piece's originality stems from the floral pattern decorating the dial and increasing the intrinsic femininity of this complication. The lotus flower, depicted at the heart of the piece, is a plant that blooms at night when the moon rises. In some cultures, it is said that this flower is the symbol of the female gait, as every step a woman takes produces a lotus flower.

Adorning the centre of the dial, this lotus flower is formed of mother-of-pearl lace designs measuring barely 0.2 mm thick, placed in two layers, one on top of the another. The first, underlying sheet is varnished then satin-finished, therefore contrasting with the upper layer, which presents a polished finish. The alternating satin-finished and polished surfaces produce a particularly captivating reflection, which is further enhanced by the inherent depth effects of the two mother-of-pearl layers.

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Two versions of the Métropolitaine Sélène dial will be revealed in 2016. The first is completely made up of white mother-of-pearl, which forms the base of the dial as well as the lotus. The second presents the Parmigiani Fleurier signature abyss blue dial, which is joined by a lotus of the same colour, matching the exact same shade.

The Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène is impressive in terms of its technical features and accuracy, but also possesses a unique artisanal beauty, resulting from the continuous decorative care responsible for its preciousness. These operations are carried out by hand, never substituted, giving it a perceptible and unique value.

THE MOON PHASE COMPLICATION

The moon phase module was entirely produced in the Parmigiani Fleurier workshops. Its operating principle is based on a gear connected to the hour wheel, which has twice as many teeth and therefore turns twice as slowly. This gear performs one rotation every 24 hours and drives the moon disc forward every day using a flexible blade integrated into its wheel.

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A push-piece at 9 o'clock enables the wearer to independently index the moon in relation to the day and time in order to match its phases to the geographic location of reference. This moon correction device features a safety system thanks to the flexible blade, which prevents the gear from being destroyed in the event of incorrect operation.

The movement is entirely circular-grained and decorated according to the highest standards of fine watchmaking, as they are invariably executed at the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture.

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Technical Specifications

TONDA Métropolitaine Sélène Moon Phase Blue

References : PFC283-0002500-XC2521 STRAP
References : PFC283-0002500-B00002 BRACELET

MOVEMENT
Calibre : PF318
Winding : Automatic
Power reserve : 50 hours
Dimensions : 11 ½''' – Ø 26.0 mm
Thickness : 4.7 mm
Frequency : 4 Hz – 28’800 A/h
Jewels : 28
Barrel(s) : 2 series-coupled barrels
Components : 205
Decoration : "Côtes de Genève", bevelled bridgesFUNCTIONS 

• Date under openworked dial
• Hours, Minutes
• Small second at 6 o'clock
• Moon phase

CASE
Shape : 3-part round case
Dimensions : Ø 33.20 mm
Thickness : 9.6 mm
Material : Steel
Finishing : Polished
Water resistance : 30 m
Glass : Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown : Ø 5.5 mm
Back : Sapphire DIAL
Finishing : Azur ounter, Mother-of-Pearl lace center
Colour: 

• Blue abyss
• White Mother-of-pearl

Index : Rose gold plated appliques
Hands : Delta-shaped with luminescent coating
STRAP

• PFC283-0002500-XC2521 Blue 
• PFC283-0003300-B00002 White

Material: Calf
Colour: Oceania Blue/White
BUCKLE
Type: Ardillo
BRACELET

• PFC283-0002500-B00002 Bracelet

Material : Steel
Colour : Polished
BUCKLE
Type : Folding


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Ulysse Nardin – Hourstriker “Horse” Limited Edition

Ulysse Nardin – Exceptional Hourstriker “Horse” Limited Edition NEW

Ulysse Nardin Enchants with Limited-edition 

Hourstriker “Horse”

A noble creature ever-present in great battles, land crossings, humble work and elite competitions, the horse
shares a deep connection with human beings. They are our quiet confidants, filled with a sense for freedom,
independence and service. Proud and regal, the horse is equally mystifying as it is enchanting, exuding a
unique wisdom unlike any other. Powerful in stature, warm in expression, the horse connects with our hearts
on many levels.

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Ulysse Nardin celebrates this extraordinary animal with its Hourstriker Horse. Crafting a collection of 28 pieces
in 18ct rose gold or platinum, each edition features hand-carved Jaquemarts on a genuine black onyx dial.
One of the rare masters of high horology to use Jaquemarts, Ulysse Nardin is also one of the earliest
watchmakers to fuel the rebirth of the striking mechanism. In this sound-motion coupling, Jaquemarts move in
synchronicity with each strike of a gong.

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A sonnerie en passant with a rare automatic movement, the Hourstriker Horse plays on hour and half hours on
demand or can be set to “gong” the time in passing. Every time the hammer hits the gong, the horse
Jaquemarts perform in concert.

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Postured between ten and 12 o’clock, and one and three o’clock, the horse Jaquemarts portray two stances. In
one, the horse is showing fear, “rearing up” to fight or flee. In the other, it is racing with purpose – either toward
or away from something. Interpretation is left to the wearer. Both horse figurines radiate stunning beauty, as
seen in their deeply chiseled muscles, pronounced facial features, and long and voluminous mane and tail.

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Set within a 42mm round case, the watch is artistic as it is functional. Ample in size, it is also self-winding, has a
power reserve of approximately 42 hours and is water resistant to 30 meters. Its face cover is sapphire crystal,
ensuring it is anti-reflective, highly durable and scratch resistant. Its case-back, also constructed of sapphire
crystal, protects its complex inner workings while allowing for visibility.
A tribute to the valiant horse, the timepiece is another example of music and motion telling time in rhythm
within the iconic Hourstriker family

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Technical Data 

Model: Exceptional Hourstriker “Horse”

Reference: 6106-130/E2-HORSE 18ct Rose Gold Alligator strap
Reference: 6109-130/E2-HORSE Platinum Alligator strap
Limited Edition to 28 pieces

Movement:
Caliber  UN-610, Chronometer Certificate
Power reserve: Approximately 42 hours 
Winding: Self-winding
41 jewels
Functions
Hourstriker
Striking of hours and half hours
Automatic chime activation system
Animated Jaquemarts
Case 
18ct rose gold or platinum
Diameter: 43 mm
Water-resistance:  30 m
Dial  
Black onyx, with two “horses” Jaquemarts in 18ct gold
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Screwed case-back with sapphire crystal
Crown: Water-resistant
Strap
Exclusive Alligator Black strap, with folding buckle.
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IWC – Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph

IWC Schaffhausen – PILOT’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph NEW

IWC Unveils Timezoner

In 2016, IWC Schaffhausen presents a radical new concept to the world of watchmaking: for the first time ever, the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph permits the user to set a new time zone using just the bezel. The hour hand, 24-hour display and the date also move automatically. No other watch manufacturer has ever succeeded in making a world time watch that is so simple, practical and elegant.

The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph (Ref. IW395001) is a watchmaking master stroke: IWC Schaffhausen is the only watch manufacturer to offer a watch that enables the user to set another time zone, together with the date and 24-hour hand, in a single movement. All you need to do is push the bezel down, turn it to the desired time zone and release. It’s as simple as that. The movement is conveyed synchronously to the hour hand and a smaller 24-hour hand that always shows whether it is day or night in the selected time zone. The date display is also synchronized correctly, regardless of whether the watch is advanced or turned back, and whether the 24-hour hand passes midnight. The watch movement and the advance of the minute hand, however, are not affected, which has the advantage that the watch shows the correct time even after repeated functional tests.

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Press, rotate and release: setting the world time with a mechanical wristwatch could not be easier than with the city ring. And since only one time of day is shown, it is impossible to mix up the different zones. For example, if you wish to know whether you are calling your business associate in Tokyo or Mexico City during office hours or at night, you simply turn the city in question to the top of the dial and then back. The same thing applies to air travellers and pilots: no matter how often they change time zones, they can quickly show local time and then revert to home time.

SIMPLE OPERATION THANKS TO A ROTATING BEZEL

For the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph, IWC’s engineers have combined and further developed a number of technologies. The city ring itself was adopted from the Worldtimer display: on the polished black rotating bezel are the names of 24 cities, from London via New York to Tokyo and Dubai, each representing one of the international time zones. Those countries with summer time are indicated on the rotating bezel by a small “S”. The inscription “UTC” below “London” shows the current Universal Time Coordinated.

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The sprung rotating bezel concept was first used for the Porsche Design Ocean 2000 in the 1980s. It ensures that the bezel rotates only when pushed down and is thus protected against inadvertent rotation. If you wish to set the watch to a new time zone, simply press down the city ring – the bezel – with thumb and index finger, turn the desired time zone to “12 o’clock” and release.

It is important that pressure is exerted on two opposite sides. Only then can the lock be released smoothly and the bezel turn in both directions. When the ring is released, a spring ensures that it returns to its original position. This mechanism is an extremely effective means of ensuring that the time zone is not moved inadvertently. The detents on the rotating bezel ensure that it locks into precisely the desired position, or into the “S” necessary for showing summer time.

EXTERNAL/INTERNAL ROTATING BEZEL PROVIDED THE SOLUTION

A system like the external/internal rotating bezel, now part of the IWC Aquatimer watch line, provided IWC’s engineers with a means of connecting the bezel with the gear train inside the watch. Rotating the city ring advances or turns back the white hour hand in one-hour steps and shows the time in the desired time zone. At the same time, the black-and-red 24-hour hand on the inner 24-hour ring shows whether it is night or day.

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Finally, should you cross the International Date Line, the date also advances or reverts by one day, depending on the direction in which the bezel moves. Since the hour wheel is connected directly to the 24-hour hand and the date advance, all the displays can only be moved at the same time. In other words, turning the city ring immediately sets three displays in motion. For connoisseurs, the world time watch has long been one of the most useful functions on the Pilot’s Watches. Now it is particularly easy to operate.

SUMMER TIME EASY TO SPOT

The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph also solves the problem of summer time. It is often forgotten that not all time zones on the planet recognize summer time. There are countries that do not make the change. Some states in the southern hemisphere put their clocks back at precisely the time those in the northern half of the globe are putting theirs forward. If you wish to see what the time is in Rio with a conventional time zone watch, it is almost certain to be wrong. For this reason, the rotating bezel has a small “S” to indicate the names of cities that recognize summer time, such as London and New York. IWC Schaffhausen has been awarded a patent for this particular display function.

ENGRAVING OF A JUNKERS JU 52

With its black city ring, dial and Santoni calfskin strap, the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph retains the colour coding of the classic Pilot’s Watch, the white displays providing a highly legible contrast. Thanks to the new IWC-manufactured 89760 calibre, this model has an innovative display that provides the user with a fast, intuitive means of displaying stopped times between 1 minute and 12 hours.

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The hours and minutes recorded by the stopwatch can be read off on the totalizer at “12 o’clock” as easily as on any analogue timepiece. Stopped times up to 60 seconds are shown by the central stopwatch hand. The integrated flyback function allows wearers to return the running stopwatch hand to zero and to start another timing sequence immediately. Engraved into the back of the stainless-steel case, which is water-resistant to 6 bar, is a depiction of a Junkers Ju 52, the aircraft which, in the 1930s, brought the world closer together. Back in those days, the aircraft was by far the most common civilian aircraft and was airborne in all continents. No wonder it has a place of honour on the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph.

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Technical Specifications

Model: PILOT’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph

Ref: IW395001

FEATURES
    Mechanical chronograph movement
    24-hour display
    Date display
    Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
    Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”
    Flyback function
    Small hacking seconds
    Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
    Special back engraving
MOVEMENT
    IWC-manufactured calibre: 89760
    Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
    Jewels: 39
    Power reserve: 68 h
    Winding: Automatic
WATCH
    Materials: Stainless-steel case, black dial
    Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
    Water-resistant: 6 bar
    Diameter: 45 mm
    Height: 16.5 mm
STRAP
Black calfskin strap by Santoni, stainless-steel folding clasp

* IWC Schaffhausen is not the owner of the Super-LumiNova® trademark.

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Press releases
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Uwe Liebminger
Department Manager Public Relations
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  uwe.liebminger@iwc.com
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A. Lange & Sohne – LANGE 1 Tourbillon PERPETUAL CALENDAR

A. Lange & Söhne – LANGE 1 Tourbillon PERPETUAL CALENDAR White Gold NEW


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Thanks to a clear arrangement of the calendar display around the time indication, the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR presents an abundance of information at a single glance. The latest model of this horological masterpiece is now presented in a discreet white-gold case with a grey dial.

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The LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR combines two classic complications with the iconic design of A. Lange & Söhne's most famous watch family. The calendar consists of a Lange outsize date, retrograde day-of-the-week and leap-year displays and a peripheral month ring. Due to the clear separation of the time and date, all information can be taken in at even a cursory glance. All of the perpetual calendar displays advance instantaneously. The mechanism is designed in such a way that it must be advanced only by one day in the year 2100. And the moon-phase display, located inside the subsidiary seconds dial, will even run true for 122.6 years before it needs to be corrected by one day.

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A subtle inscription beneath the twelve refers to the existence of the tourbillon. By looking through the sapphire-crystal caseback, it can be admired in all its technical complexity. The movement is equipped with Lange's patented stop-seconds mechanism. It brings the balance inside the tourbillon cage to a standstill instantly, gently and safely when the crown is pulled. This allows the watch to be set with one-second accuracy. The upper part of the tourbillon cage is decorated with black polish, the most sophisticated and time-consuming type of artisanal surface finishing. The bearing of the tourbillon cage features a diamond endstone as a tribute to the historic 1A pocket watches by A. Lange & Söhne.

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A solid central rotor with a 21-carat-gold segment in the middle and an additional platinum centrifugal mass on the periphery efficiently tension the mainspring of the self-winding calibre L082.1 movement so that the maximum power reserve of 50 hours is built up after just a short time on the wrist. Typical Lange quality hallmarks include the lavishly decorated movement with hand-engraved tourbillon and intermediate wheel cocks as well as screwed gold chatons.

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Technical Specifications

Model: LANGE 1 Tourbillon PERPETUAL CALENDAR Wwhite Gold

Reference №: 720.038

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre: L082.1
Number of movement parts / jewels: 624 / 76, including one diamond endstone
Screwed gold chatons: 6, including one diamond endstone
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator:
Shock-resistant balance with eccentric poising weights,
balance spring manufactured in-house with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 50 hours when fully wound
Functions:
Off-centre time indication for hours and minutes; subsidiary-seconds dial;
tourbillon with patented stop-seconds mechanism; perpetual calendar
with outsize date, retrograde day-of-week display, peripheral month ring
and leap-year display; moon-phase display; day/night indicator
Case measures: Diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 12.2 millimetres
Movement measures:
Diameter: 34.1 millimetres; height: 7.8 millimetres
Case:  18-carat white gold
Dial: Solid silver, grey
Hands: Rhodiumed gold
Case versions: 
Pink gold, white gold
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather strap
Buckle: White-gold prong buckle

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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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FERDINAND BERTHOUD – The contribution made to horology

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – The contribution made to horology

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The contribution made by Ferdinand Berthoud
to horology

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His initial successes as a researcher and the awarding of the title of master by order of the King

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Obliged to work as a watchmaker’s companion for the masters of the Parisian guild, due to not having served his apprenticeship with one of them, the young Berthoud managed to overcome this hurdle by drawing attention to “his considerable application in perfecting the art of watchmaking”. He seized the opportunity of publishing his research at the French Royal Academy of Science by submitting the description of a new construction in a sealed envelope.

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The academics’ approval on April 26th 1752 of a longcase equation clock, considered highly ingenious, marked the beginning of his career as a researcher and at the same time, enabled him to stake his claim of official integration within the watchmaker community. On December 4th 1753, the King ordered that he be named a maître (master), a title that allowed him to open a workshop in the Rue de Harlay, near Place Dauphine.

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In 1754, the master once again submitted his inventions to the Academy. One was his first marine clock project. The others, examined and approved by the academics, were also equation systems: “a longcase equation clock with concentric seconds marking the months and days of the month, leap years, and which runs for 13 months without being wound”; as well as a watch with seconds and equation, marking the months and days.

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Even prior to being named a master, Ferdinand Berthoud indicated the direction he wanted his career to take – namely to devote himself to research and transmit his know-how through publications and teaching. This double vocation enabled him to rapidly make a name for himself in the scientific world of his time.

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Several articles in the Encyclopaedia published by Diderot were entrusted to him, and most particularly the article entitled “Equation”. In 1759, he published a successful treatise on popularization entitled, L’Art de conduire et de régler les pendules et les montres. A l’usage de ceux qui n’ont aucune connaissance d’horlogerie (The art of operating and adjusting clocks and watches.

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To be used by those with no knowledge of watchmaking). In 1763, his extensive treatise - L’Essai sur l’horlogerie ; dans lequel on traite de cet Art relativement à l’usage civil, à l’Astronomie et à la Navigation (An Essay on Horology; in which we deal with this Art in relation to its civil application, to Astronomy and to Navigation) was also well received.

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Affirmation of his vocation and official recognition of his work

1763 marked a turning point in Berthoud’s career, which was now bound up with the development of maritime navigation. The Academy of Science once again both witnessed and supported the horologist’s request for the opening of two reports, respectively deposited in 1760 and 1761. These described the N°1 maritime clock.

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Convinced by his skill, the academics obtained permission from the Minister of the Navy to send him to London to examine the Harrison marine clock. This opportunity demonstrated his worth and resulted in his nomination as a foreign member of the Royal Society on February 16th 1764.

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On August 29th of that year, Ferdinand Berthoud once again made a submission concerning the “construction of a marine watch…” This was the last time, as Berthoud was now sure of where he was going with his research and of having the option of seeking official support.

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Berthoud marine clock N°2, with motor spring and double pendulum wheel, 1763.

His projects were the subject of detailed requests punctuating his activities and in this context, he suggested the construction of two marine watches on May 7th 1766.
After successful experimentation with the N° 6 and 8 which are housed at the Musée des arts et métiers (Museum of Arts and Crafts), Ferdinand Berthoud was awarded a certificate entitled Brevet d’horloger Méchanicien du Roi et de la Marine ayant l’inspection de la construction des Horloges marines (Watchmaker and Mechanic to the King and Navy with construction inspection of marine clocks) created especially for him on April 1st 1770.

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FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Horloge de marine № 6 - 1777

From this time onwards, he abandoned the management of his workshop-boutique in favour of his research. He confirmed in 1792 that: “It is mainly since 1770 that I have been completely focused on this and I have in a way left the field of public work”.

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A tenacious investigator, a skilled and daring builder, and an inventor anxious to share his knowledge, Ferdinand Berthoud not only took part in improving horology; he also fostered the use of precision clocks in the sciences of his time, thus contributing to their progress.

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The title, privileges, and forms of recognition which punctuated his career, between the reign of Louis XV and the First Empire, as well as the tributes and studies which marked his critical fortune until the present day, reflect the importance of his position in the long quest for precision, from Huyghens’ discoveries right up to Guillaume.

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Biography FERDINAND BERTHOUD

 1727-1807

Horologist-mechanic by appointment to the King and the Navy

1727                              Ferdinand Berthoud is born on March 18 to a distinguished family of clockmakers at Plancemont in the Val-de-Travers, now in Switzerland’s canton of Neuchâtel.

1745                              At the age of 18, Ferdinand Berthoud settles in Paris to study clockmaking.

1753                              A decree of King Louis XV’s council awards the 26-year-old Ferdinand Berthoud the title of Master Clockmaker.

1755                              Ferdinand Berthoud writes a number of reference papers for the Encyclopédie méthodique edited by Diderot (1713-1784) and Alembert (1717-1783).

1763                              Publication of a two-volume horological treatise, Essai sur l’horlogerie…

1764                             Ferdinand Berthoud is elected to the Royal Society in London as an “associate overseas member” thanks to his masterpieces and his publications about watchmaking

1768                             The marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8 were proved to be successful onboard the corvette “L’Isis” during a 18-month journey from Rochefort to Santo Domingo. The marine chronometer N°8 alloed to determine the real position on the map of the boat and calculate the longitude within half a degree thanks to astronomical observations.

1770                              After successful sea trials of the marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8, Ferdinand Berthoud is commissioned as Horologist-mechanic to the King and the Navy, and receives a royal command for 20 marine chronometers for the French admiralty’s numerous charting expeditions and marine surveys of the late 18^th century.

1802                             Ferdinand Berthoud publishes a major work: Histoire de la mesure du temps par les horloges, a history of time measurement by clocks that demonstrates his immense knowledge of horological mechanics.

1804                             On July 17, Napoleon I makes Ferdinand Berthoud a Knight of the Legion of Honour as a member of the Institut de France. 

1807                             Ferdinand Berthoud publishes his last work, Supplément au Traité des montres à Longitudes…

                                      On June 20, 1807, Ferdinand Berthoud dies at the age of 80 in Groslay (France)

                                      His nephews, Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813) and Charles-Auguste Berthoud (1798-1876) successfully carry on the work of their uncle to earn renown as chronometer-makers. 

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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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