Tuesday, April 2, 2024

Louis Vuitton – TAMBOUR Moon Saphir Tourbillon Volant Poincon de Geneve Frank Gehry Edition

Louis VuittonArtistic Craft Watches TAMBOUR Moon Saphir Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève Frank Gehry Watch Edition 2024

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The result of an exceptional collaboration between the Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and the great architect Frank Gehry, this piece of Haute Horlogerie features a unique design inspired by the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris and the Maison Louis Vuitton in Seoul, two major works by Gehry. Absolutely transparent, the spectacular architecture of this watch gives a total vision of the flying tourbillon caliber manufactured and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva.

After creating the Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris in 2014 and the Louis Vuitton House in Seoul in 2019, Frank Gehry agreed to take on a new challenge: creating the first Haute Horlogerie watch of his career. Two years of discussions between the House and the famous architect were necessary for the Tambour Moon Saphir Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Frank Gehry to see the light of day.

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Pushing transparency to its peak while respecting the architectural spirit of the Canadian master on a mechanical object whose diameter does not exceed 43.8 millimeters proved to be an eminently complex exercise. Thus, to design the dial of this flying tourbillon watch, Frank Gehry was inspired by his work for the Maison Louis Vuitton in Seoul where he imagined an undulating glass structure which seemed to float weightlessly on the roof of the building.
 
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In order to concentrate this signature which is both powerful and light, a poetic echo of the movement of boat sails, the architect had a large format photo of the Tambour Moon Saphir watch launched in 2022 printed in large format, the paper of which he then crumpled to create the dial of this new model.

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Like the glass vessel he built for the Louis Vuitton Foundation, the architect imagined a mini watchmaking construction that could offer the same aerial impression and the same perspective effects but on a miniature scale.

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“My inspiration comes from the world of the sea, fish, boats, nautical because they embody the notion of movement, mobility, speed,” confided the architect on the occasion of the inauguration of the Maison Louis Vuitton in Seoul. “I like to express movement, to breathe this dynamism into static materials. »

High transparency

To transpose this architectural signature into a piece of Haute Horlogerie, the choice of sapphire was essential for the creation of the case and dial. This transparent material makes it possible to create this curved relief and obtain these plays of textures and light dear to Frank Gehry. It is from a single block of 200 kilo sapphire that Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton shaped the crystalline face of this entirely transparent Tambour Moon. The case, the dial, the crown, the horns and the hands were cut from this material, the hardness of which remains the highest in the world after that of diamond.

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As for the dial, one of the most difficult that La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has had to create, it is akin to a true miniature sculpture, no thicker than a sheet of paper: 250 hours of work were necessary to its sole production. In this hard-to-work material, the artisans sculpted then reworked by hand the shape and reliefs imagined by Frank Gehry, which recall those of his architectural works.
 
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By borrowing some of its tools from the medical industry, the dial makers have reproduced the asymmetrical volumes and curved volutes which characterize the architect's style with know-how of incredible precision, particularly in the creation of satin finishes and matte. For this ultra-delicate work, the craftsmen of the Fabrique du Temps used diamond powder and a diamond bur to mattify certain areas, taking care to take regular breaks so that the material is not too sensitized by the heat or the tool vibrations.

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Furthermore, because of its extreme finesse, the dial could not be placed on a support but had to be held by the sole hand of the craftsman, who worked with a binocular, playing with the light and checking with naked eye that the areas were well matted in all angles.

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Thus, these extremely sophisticated sapphire finishes made it possible to increase the play of light while drawing the eye to the tourbillon movement, which deploys its own radiance. The hands, also in sapphire, feature luminescent contours to make it easier to read the time at night.

A caliber set in majesty

As if pushed by the wind, the glass sails emblematic of the architect's work are found at the heart of the Tambour Moon Saphir Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève. 

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The first watch with a sapphire case and dial to bear the Hallmark of Geneva, this Tambour Moon is powered by the LFT MM05.01 flying tourbillon manufacture movement entirely created, developed and assembled by the master watchmakers of Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva.

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This architectural masterpiece in sapphire crystal reveals, on all sides, the beauty of the workings with beveling and satin finishes carried out on the tiniest of its components. To accentuate the contrasts, the finely openworked caliber is two-tone. The plate is in concentrically satin-finished solid rose gold and the gears and flying tourbillon are rhodium-plated. Equipped with a power reserve of 80 hours, this manually wound mechanical movement features a Monogram Flower in the tourbillon cage, which completes one revolution in one minute.

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On the back of the case appears the signature of Frank Gehry. It reminds us how the Tambour Moon Saphir Flying Tourbillon Poinçon is unique and carries within it the values of audacity and innovation of Louis Vuitton, magnified today by the mastery of a visionary architect.

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About Louis Vuitton  

Since 1854, Louis Vuitton has offered unique creations, where technical innovation is combined with the requirement of style while striving for the highest quality. The House remains faithful to the spirit of Louis, its founder and inventor of the " Art of travel ”. Its luggage, bags and accessories were as innovative as they were elegant and ingenious. Even today, daring dictates the history of Louis Vuitton. Faithful to its heritage, the Maison has opened its doors to architects, artists and designers while investing in new areas of expression such as ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, watches, jewelry, and even perfume. . These products, produced with great care, attest to Louis Vuitton’s commitment to high quality craftsmanship.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: TAMBOUR Moon Saphir Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève Frank Gehry Edition

 
Case
Sapphire case, lugs and crown
Signature of Frank Gehry on the back of the box
Diameter: 43.8mm
Thickness: 11.27mm

Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial
Sapphire, polished and mattified by hand, inspired by Frank Gehry’s architectural works
Sapphire hands, outline in HyCeram® Luminex (luminescent pigments)
Movement
Calibre LFTMM05.01:
mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
    “Poinçon de Genève” certification, visible on the central bridge
Functions: Skeleton Flying Tourbillon, hours and minutes, Monogram Flower Tourbillon cage rotating in one minute
    160 components
    80 hours of power reserve
    21,600 vibrations per hour
    17 jewels

Strap
White taurillon leather strap
Buckle Rose gold folding buckle
Clasp: Rose gold folding clasp 

 🔰 Limited editionof 5 pieces
 🔴Price  USD 935.000 $ / € 934.500 💰

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Press releases - 2024
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Monday, April 1, 2024

ANGELUS – Instrument de Vitesse Chronograph Edition

 

ANGELUSLA FABRIQUE Instrument de Vitesse Chronograph Edition 2024

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 Angelus
Instrument de Vitesse
60 Seconds Flat

Instrument de Vitesse, a new opus in the La Fabrique collection, revives the golden age of timed races. This mono-pusher chronograph seems to have been plucked from the dashboard of a vintage GT car. 

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It is equipped with a single timing hand – the centre seconds hand – and can time a maximum of one minute. With its sleek and refined retro sports look, Instrument de Vitesse is intended for enthusiasts of watchmaking history and culture. 

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Housed in a 39-mm steel case, its 4.20 mm manually wound Manufacture calibre ensures that the finished timepiece is less than 10 mm thick. Instrument de Vitesse is available with an ivory-white or ebony-black dial in two limited series of 25 timepieces each.

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Appearances can sometimes be deceptive. At first glance, Instrument de Vitesse does not appear to be a classic chronograph. With its three central hands, it looks like a watch... with three hands, but the tachymeter scale running around the outer edge of the dial reveals its chronometric function. 

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For this is a chronograph presented in its purest expression, dedicated to timing short bursts – a measuring instrument designed to take average speed readings over a maximum of 60 seconds. 

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This, in turn, casts new light on the crown, which also acts as the chronograph’s single push-piece to set the slender centre seconds hand in motion.

Historical

Dedicated to the renaissance and reinterpretation of classic timepieces from Angelus’ past, the La Fabrique collection unveils its second model, following in the footsteps of the Chronographe Médical. Once again, the house draws on its aesthetic heritage and showcases historical design elements and affinities. 

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As a result, Angelus has designed a chronograph that seems to belong on the dashboard of a beautiful English or Italian vintage car, with the roar of a V12 engine as its soundscape.

Graphic

Released in two series of 25 timepieces, Instrument de Vitesse is available with a steel case measuring 39 mm in diameter and just 9.27 mm thick. It features a domed dial divided into two functional zones. 

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The peripheral indications are dedicated to the tachymeter scale, graduated from 60 to 500 with a base metric of 1,000 (typically one kilometre). The more central indications, meanwhile, are designed to display the time, with a finely graduated minutes circle.

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In both cases, the typography – specially chosen for the La Fabrique collection – is clear, contrasting and elegant.

Contrasting

Instrument de Vitesse is available in two versions. he first, on a caramel calfskin strap, features an ebony-black dial with rhodium-plated applied Arabic numerals that stand out with their striking white hue. The second version is presented on a midnight-blue nubuck strap. 

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Its ivory-white dial is punctuated with applied Arabic numerals outlined in black to create an incredible three-dimensional effect. 

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The hour and minute hands, together with the applied numerals, are coated with luminescent material.

Mechanics

Inside, Angelus operates its own A5000 chronograph movement. With this new variant, this calibre – the technical stalwart of La Fabrique – once again demonstrates its adaptability. 

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Presented in this manually wound version without totalisers, it offers a reduced thickness of just 4.20 mm. Set to a frequency of 3 Hz, it functions by way of a column wheel and horizontal clutch in the pure chronograph tradition.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  LA FABRIQUE

Model:   LA FABRIQUE Instrument de Vitesse Chronograph Edition

References    BLANC IVOIRE: 0CHBS.I01A.V010S

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Кeferences      NOIR EBENE: 0CHBS.B01A.V010S   

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Movement
Calibre     A5000, manual winding, mechanical
Jewels     23
Diameter    24.00 mm
Thickness    4.20 mm
Power reserve     42 hours
Frequency     3 Hz/21,600 vph
Finishes    mainplate: palladium finish, circular-grained
bridges: palladium finish, chamfered, Côtes de Genève motif
wheels: golden (2N) finish, circular-grained
screws: polished

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Functions    hours, minutes, one-minute chronograph, ‘base 1000’ tachymeter scale
Dial    
Ivory-white or ebony-black, domed
Arabic numerals: applied, black-treated or rhodium-plated, and coated with Super-LumiNova
Hands: coated with Super-LumiNova   
Case
Material    stainless steel
Diameter    39.00 mm
Thickness    9.27 mm
Crystal    box sapphire, anti-reflective coating on both sides
Case back     sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance     3 bar (30 metres/100 feet)
Strap
Material    caramel calfskin or midnight-blue nubuck calfskin, ecru stitching, hand-stitched
Buckle    pin, stainless steel


🔰Limited edition    25 timepieces in each colour variant
    
🔴 Swiss retail price    CHF 17,100 💰incl. VAT (subject to change)
 

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Press Release - 2024
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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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